Need help with a little project...

ED E

Ok, here's the gist of things. I like supporting and spotting targets, keeping theur heads down and guiding the sneaky sons of in on their position. Thats why I want a support gun, and not just some 249. I looked at getting/modding an RPK with a paintjob. But then I found out there was an Aug MG variant called a H-Bar (Heavy Barell). Ooorah! I discovered that there is an airsoft version produced. Well, there was. As far as I can see they've closed down as I've sent them several emails, made an order online 3, maybe four times, called them to no result and their fax machine is disconected. :mad: Nobody else does and airsoft version so I'm left with two options:

1. Fly to the uk, find hedgeganian, go to his house, steal his and run.
or
2. Make one. This one seems alot more likely to succeed. Their kit replaces the front half of the barell section and affixes a new opne with resin, I don't think(maybe completely wrong) this is necessary. The Aug has a 14mm(I'll verify that later) CCW thread. If I had an extension to if this it would make it easily convertable from assault rifle to MG. I'm thinking that the threads may not take the strain but I'm guessing if I had the hbar built to encompass the stock barrel(so you slide it on the screw it tight) that the leverage would be supported.

So, my questions:
Any Major flaws?
Does anyone have the requiered kit to mill such a barell(I'll pay you!)
Suggestions for materials?
Cost to have it professioanlly done(if I supplied detailed 3and2D drawings)?
Suggestions for Bipod?

I'll probably think of more.

Thanks
Simon
Relevant Pics:
KIt:

Sorry for the glare..

Tigger

the conversion kit g36c-g37k hat the outer barrel extension you're looking for


http://www.wargameclub.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=KM-HK512A_cat_Outer%20Barrel%20for%20AEG

this sorta thing?

ED E

Tigger wrote: »

the conversion kit g36c-g37k hat the outer barrel extension you're looking for


http://www.wargameclub.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=KM-HK512A_cat_Outer%20Barrel%20for%20AEG

this sorta thing?

That would be great but its discontinued. Must look for others like that.

Thanks.

Gatling

intresting project simon-

have you thought about using the barrel of a jg svd ,abd the bi-pod should be easy enough

ive pics of the hbar being used by the pdf if you want them

ED E

Gatling wrote: »

intresting project simon-

have you thought about using the barrel of a jg svd ,abd the bi-pod should be easy enough

ive pics of the hbar being used by the pdf if you want them

Thats a good point, I'll check that one out. If its not too much hassle I'd love to see those pics, there aren't many on the web that I can find.

Found this: http://www.wargameclub.com/pcart/shopper.php?itm=STAR-ACC-G3607_cat_Outer%20Barrel%20for%20AEG
It seems 100% perfect, well, it could be a little long total but I'll have to see(Dimensions[roughly]anyone?). Thing is I dont know if the small 14mm threads will take that much strain, lots of leverage there. Is there any way I could reinforce it?

ED E

Is a 650mm PSG-1 the longest inner you can get?

Tigger

bunch iof canadians did the same thing slipping a steel tube ahh the way down
you could get a thininsh steel tube with just under the rght internal diameter and heat it
slip it down and let it cool

if you want to be able to remove it you will need a slightly large barrel and apoxy a 14mm ccw at just the right point so that it tightens against the reciever

seems pretty cool as you can get a very long inner barrel in then

ED E

Tigger wrote: »

bunch iof canadians did the same thing slipping a steel tube ahh the way down
you could get a thininsh steel tube with just under the rght internal diameter and heat it
slip it down and let it cool

if you want to be able to remove it you will need a slightly large barrel and apoxy a 14mm ccw at just the right point so that it tightens against the reciever

seems pretty cool as you can get a very long inner barrel in then

Yeah, if I get steel tubing to fit it snugly I could probably use a larger flash hider to hold it in place. Then all it need is a spray and bobs your uncle job done.....

Thing is, the current length fits a 509 bang on. That leaves 151mm or so to use, I dont want a floating barrel....15cm...hmm

Tigger

common thing amongst airsofters seems to be the desire to own a unique RIF, and I�m no exception. However, my yearning is not for some customised hybrid or sci-fi masterpiece � for me, airsofting is about realism. So nothing could be better to feed my desire for a unique AEG, combined with my love of big guns and my affair with the Steyr AUG than the H-Bar barrel extension kit from Boom Arms (www.boomarms.com), based in Hong Kong.
Having finally decided to order one, I was impressed to find that the people at Boom Arms were very swift and efficient � I was invoiced for the full amount the next day and the parcel was in my hands four days after leaving Hong Kong. Well done DHL!
Having unpacked the H-Bar kit from its box, I got the instruction sheet out. I was pleased to find that it wasn�t written in Japanese, Chinese, or any other language that I couldn�t read. In fact, there wasn�t much writing on it at all. A diagram indicated how the pieces screwed together � although there was really no other way it could fit together, while another worried me by seeming to indicate cutting the inner barrel in half! Fortunately, it�s not that drastic. You�d better be prepared to work to achieve the H-Bar of your dreams, though...
Firstly, you�ll need the following items, in addition to a TM AUG and H-Bar barrel kit: a 650mm inner barrel (PSG1 length), metal-cutting hacksaw, half-round fine-toothed metal file, mallet (rubber or wood), needle-nose pliers, 1.5mm allen key, precision screwdriver set (flat- and crossheads required), epoxy resin (Araldite-style glue), brute force.
The following is an attempt at a step-by-step guide to the conversion process, based on what I did, or what I should have done, using hind-sight.
First, lever the end-cap off the bottom of the fore-grip and grab the spring inside with the pliers. Carefully remove the end cap and gently let the spring relax. This will release the tension on the rod that holds the fore-grip in place, allowing it to be removed. Carefully place all the parts to one side for replacement later. If you have a green Military AUG, if you lose the fore-grip, you can only buy a black replacement, so take care! You may wish to investigate replacing the metal part of the fore-grip with the steel version made by Guarder, available from WGC in Hong Kong.
Having removed the fore-grip, you will now be able to reach the grub-screw that holds the outer barrel in place. There is no need to remove the flash excluder (no, it�s NOT a flash �hider�! It doesn�t �hide� anything; it merely prevents the flash from obscuring the sight picture, preventing flash-blindness, particularly during night-fighting. Look it up in Jane�s if you don�t believe me!). If you have not had to remove the outer barrel before, you will find the grub screw very tight, and the tiny 1.5mm allen key feels like it will snap before the screw will turn. A gentle build-up of strength is the key here.
Once you manage to get the screw moving, it is VITAL that you do NOT remove it all the way, or you will not be able to get it back in again! Only undo it enough to allow the outer barrel to come off. This also saves you from losing the grub screw. When you remove the outer barrel, take care that the small black piece of metal between the barrel and the silver gas-plug does not get lost, as it has nothing to hold it in place except the barrel and gas plug. It is a good idea to use a bit of epoxy to glue it in place, and to glue the gas plug in place too.
Now that you have removed the outer barrel, it is time to remove the whole barrel/fore-grip assembly from the rest of the rifle, if you haven�t already. Having done that; use the screwdrivers to take out the screws holding the hop-up unit and inner barrel in place. Gently remove the inner barrel. If you have a new inner barrel, now is the time to fit it to the hop-up unit. I recommend, however, buying a G&P metal hop-up unit instead of simply using the plastic one. Either way, put the inner barrel and hop-up unit to one side. Take care not to lose the tiny screws!
Next, remove the screws that hold the plastic part of the barrel section to the metal gas-block/fore-grip part. You will find the plastic tube, with an aluminium tube inside it, will come away from the metal part. You now need to cut off the aluminium tube as close to the plastic as possible, or the H-Bar barrel will not fit. Use the hacksaw to cut off the aluminium tube (be sure to recycle the waste!) and file the cut edge smooth and round it off to avoid damage to the inner or outer barrels.
If you haven�t already done so, assemble the H-Bar barrel as per the diagram. Don�t forget the rubber O ring. I recommend using some epoxy resin glue on the threads (it says use super glue on the instructions, but super glue won�t be strong enough). If you do use glue, make sure you allow it time to set � at least overnight, preferably 24 hours.
Making sure the barrel is correctly aligned (there are no locating lugs like on the standard Marui one, and having your barrel on sideways looks stupid) position the barrel in the gas-block. Ensure you have replaced the gas plug and the little metal bit, if you did not glue them in place, once you have this H-Bar barrel in place, it�s unlikely you�ll be able to get it off again. Make sure you have lined the barrel up correctly � one point of the H-Bar flash excluder should point upwards, the bipod should be level with the barrel when retracted. H_Bar_Muzzle2.JPG ( 40.67K ) Number of downloads: 59

Place the muzzle of the barrel on a hard surface (concrete floor in the garage is ideal), but ensure there is a soft cloth or carpet to protect it from scratches. Now use the mallet to tap it into place the last few millimetres by tapping the part of the gas-block that fits into the body of the AUG. When fitted correctly, the H-Bar barrel and the gas-block should be flush with each other, with no �thin bit� between them. If you have to realign the barrel, clamp the gas-block in a vice, with a soft cloth to protect it from scratches and use the bipod as a lever to rotate the barrel. Only turn the barrel clockwise to prevent it from breaking the epoxy resin and unscrewing. When you are happy with the alignment and fit, screw the grub screw back in � not that it will really do anything anymore, that barrel is such a tight fit, that it�s never moving�
Now, put the plastic outer barrel back in, then the inner barrel, screwing both in place. Replace the barrel section in the body of the AUG, and lastly, replace the fore-grip. Your H-Bar is now assembled and ready for use. Congratulations on owning a rare, and authentic, piece of airsoft weaponry. Real_Steel_AUG_H_BAR_Side_View.jpg ( 84.86K ) Number of downloads: 129

It might be fitting to note (so you can brag at your next skirmish) that the H-Bar barrel section is made entirely from steel (no Marui Monkey Metal here!) and costs more than a brand-new TM AUG Military (if you can find one, since Marui stopped making them, in their wisdom)�
Anyone who has enough spare parts would be well advised to fit the H-Bar kit to a separate barrel section, to allow the barrel-swapping joy that is so much a part of the AUG experience. If you�ve got a spare green fore-grip or other spare barrel parts, please sell them to me!
Next project, AUG with underslung M203. After that, I�ll need to find enough parts to make more barrels!
Anyway, that�s all for now. Message ends, out.

Tigger

534 mm Inner Barrel SIG550


its a tm barrell

it fits lol


i want one now

ED E

Thats the afore mentioned hedgeganian. Read that before. No use as I cant get one of those kits...

The Master

If money is no object you could buy this

Or perhaps e-mail them and ask how they did it

ED E

Robster The Lobster wrote: »

If money is no object you could buy this

Or perhaps e-mail them and ask how they did it

Nice find. Cheers.

Stercus Accidit

I saw a lad that made one of these, and the extended 40 round mags for them too, wasn't you by any chance was it?

I'm getting deja vu.

ED E

Motosam wrote: »

I saw a lad that made one of these, and the extended 40 round mags for them too, wasn't you by any chance was it?

I'm getting deja vu.

Nah, C-MAGs on its way. Cant get an AUG one but the 36, or any one for that fact, is easy to covert. Inaccurate short ranged 249(Ye kno who ye areXD) vs super long barreled and uber accurate aug, I cant wait.

kdouglas

You do realise of course that the difference in range with uber-long barrels is practically non-existent?

The longest barrel you can get is the psg-1 650mm alright.

Puding

i know sometimes you can get issues with long inner barrels and high rof, i;ve never had any problems with 1000 - 1100 rpm and a 600mm inner barrel as a yard stick.

Another option is a rpk front end added onto the existing barrel bit of a paint job to remove the shin and some fabrication work to the bipod could have it looking like what you want.

Tigger

kdouglas wrote: »

You do realise of course that the difference in range with uber-long barrels is practically non-existent?

The longest barrel you can get is the psg-1 650mm alright.

affects accuracy a bit tho?

sits back and waits for graphs

Tigger

btw i was ugradifying my g36c and when i was deciding what o do with it i had thought of making it into a support weapon with long barrel etc
but apearantly there needs to be a match between barrel length and the cylinder stroke see here:

clicky

ED E

Yeah, I know KD, just messin.

Stercus Accidit

I dont think that link is relevant in this case, a short barrel has to be very short to need a port, at these lengths suck back is the concern, but I have a 550mm barrel, unvented piston and 19 rps rof, I get suck back but after the bb leaves the barrel.

I know this as it sucks the last 4 bbs out of every mag, but semi and full auto does not effect bb range or fps out of the barrel.

Matching the cylinder is not an issue here, but that link is interesting for explaining why ports are used on short barrels, eg. mp5k.

ED E

Ehh, two more questions

Does a Marui barrel section fit a CA or can it be easily modded to? Just found out that Dentrinity do a custom H-BAR!

Another option I just thought of, Phantom Kit! That has an RIS rail on the bottom, could attach a bipod on there. Not a tru HBar but would look sweet. Catches are: Bipod is far back. And can a phantom take a longer inner?


Thanks

Tigger

i saw the den trinity one yesterday
its 330 + vat/shipping and taxes

ED E

Tigger wrote: »

i saw the den trinity one yesterday
its 330 + vat/shipping and taxes

Yeah, but I only want the barrel, Maruis are useless.

ED E

Redwolf have replied. The parts required are no longer available. Still waiting a replie from dentrinity....

Stercus Accidit

Both den and Redwolf use an m60 bipod on their h-bars though, so you could probably pick one up yourself.

ED E

Motosam wrote: »

Both den and Redwolf use an m60 bipod on their h-bars though, so you could probably pick one up yourself.

Cheers. Will check that out.

Den have said no too....Gonna bet back on to hedge(Arnies resident Aug expert) and see if has a an alternative.