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Painting new Render & Plaster...

  • 23-05-2008 03:27PM
    #1
    RossN
    Closed Accounts Posts: 30 ✭


    I know it has been covered in different ways before, but just wanted to clarify to my house...

    Old (Early 1900s) house. Stripped walls back to red brick for damp-proofing, and it has been sand/cement rendered, and skimmed. This finished about 10 days ago.
    Wall has looked perfectly dry since about Monday.
    Would this be enough time for me to paint this weekend?
    Was planning on thinning down first coat (25% ish water) and rolling on paint. Have Magnolia Matt Emulsion for this.
    Shoud I be using a different paint on first coat?
    Should I add PolyBond?
    How many coats tend to be needed on fresh plaster? (I realise I will know this by looking...)

    Thanks, and sorry to be re-asking things that have been mainly covered...
    Ross.


Comments

  • #2
    Wertz
    Closed Accounts Posts: 11,909 ✭✭✭✭Wertz


    You have it more or less covered ross....not sure if your plaster is fully dried or not though...would depend on how long the scratch coat was left to cure before it was skimmed, what temp the house was, etc. Exterior walls especially may have residual moisture. It's really up to you to decide if it's fit to take paint yet or not.

    Assuming you intend to finish in magnolia or a similar shade, then thinned down mag matt is fine for priming....you''ll probably want two more coats after that, or you may get away with one...it depends on paint brand, type of roller you use, etc.
    I wouldn't bother with polybond...PVA is an ingredient in most emulsions already.


  • #3
    RossN
    Closed Accounts Posts: 30 ✭RossN


    Thanks for the response... Looking a lot better now!!
    Any good tricks for cutting in to the ceiling join, to get that straight edge? Masking isn't an option really as I don't want to pull off paint...

    Cheers.


  • #4
    Wertz
    Closed Accounts Posts: 11,909 ✭✭✭✭Wertz


    Good quality synthetic brush of 2.5 - 3 inches, held correctly (like a pen) in a steady hand (people say it's all in the wrist, but it's really a combination of elbow and shoulder) and taking your time; use the line that is created by the corner as your guide, drawing along with the brush on it's side, which will create a small bubble of paint at it's leading edge. You'll probably be cutting it out twice, so what you don't get on the first pass will be gotten on the second one. I know it sounds obvious, but just avoid the ceiling...if you have a hand like a parkinson's victim, buy one of those metal edgers from the DIY shop....that will serve as a guide but IMO creates it's own messy problems.


  • #5
    RossN
    Closed Accounts Posts: 30 ✭RossN


    Nice one... Thanks.
    Job done!


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