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Treating\Reseeding\Rolling New Garden

  • 23-04-2008 12:23pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 302 ✭✭


    Hi All,



    i reseeded my new garden last october and it has come up quite patchy with lots of weeds at the moment.



    I have gotten some more seed to treat the patchy areas and some weed killer which is also a fertiliser for the lawn.



    The weed killer does not say not to spread seed at same time so I though I would ask here if I can spread the seed and weed killer at same time?



    The lawn is also quite uneven in places so I am planning to hire a hand roller and give it a good roll when the ground is a little softer but am plannnig on doing this after weed killer and seed have been spread.



    I also have to plant some pine trees. Is this the correct time of year for this?



    Apologies for all the questions but my fingers are definately not green so any guidance appreciated.



    Lastbuilders


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 457 ✭✭moceri


    Spot treat the weeds with a selective Herbicide (D50). Allow 1 week to pass and then mow the lawn to 2" Grass Height

    Spread Grass seed on Bare patches, preferably before a wet spell.

    Allow 3 weeks for the grass to Germinate and hold off mowing as long as you can.

    Do Not ever use a roller as you are likely to compact the soil and poor drainage encourages moss.

    learn to live with the small bumps and hollows. Larger bumps: lift the patch of turf in the Autumn and scoop out the soil, replace turf. Large Hollows: fill with Sharp sand and reseed if necessary.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,834 ✭✭✭Sonnenblumen


    moceri wrote: »
    Spot treat the weeds with a selective Herbicide (D50). Allow 1 week to pass and then mow the lawn to 2" Grass Height

    Spread Grass seed on Bare patches, preferably before a wet spell.

    Allow 3 weeks for the grass to Germinate and hold off mowing as long as you can.

    Do Not ever use a roller as you are likely to compact the soil and poor drainage encourages moss.

    learn to live with the small bumps and hollows. Larger bumps: lift the patch of turf in the Autumn and scoop out the soil, replace turf. Large Hollows: fill with Sharp sand and reseed if necessary.

    Disagree with the above advice, e.g.
    - never treat seeded areas with weedkiller
    - a roller is very useful to give a professional level finish
    - sharp sand is not ideal, better to use lawn sand, but for filling hollows (< 50mm deep) mix sand with soil/compost to make a loamy mix this can be used ideally < 25mm to unify levels. Sharp sand ie Builders sand, can cause scorching.
    - new lawns should not be cut too short, ie < 50% of height within first 6 months. Set mower blades at mid point and use of weedkiller should be avoided for first 12 months.
    - Apply liquid feeds regularly to retain lush and vibrant look.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 302 ✭✭lastbuilders


    Thanks for the advise. Spent all last weekend picking stones off the lawn so have lots of pains after it. Cut it high after that and it look sgood in places. Am plan to seed the patchy areas and fill in some holes this weekend and then see in a month or so how it goes.

    If the weeds keep coming I might try the wee and feed.

    Lastbuilders


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 457 ✭✭moceri


    Hope this might be of some use to you.

    http://www.gardenadvice.co.uk/howto/lawns/lawn-rescue/index.html

    Sonnenblumen is correct about never applying weedkiller on a new seedbed, so I suggest spraying with the selective weedkiller first and allowing at least two weeks before seeding bare patches.

    Lawn sand does contain sulphate of iron and sulphate of Ammonia so it is best to avoid using it for the first six months on a new seedbed.


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