Best way to fit skirting

ennisjim

Hi,

I need to fit red deal skirting to new build. I will be painting off-white. There is quite a lot to fit and would like to go about it in the most painless way. I had considered using adhesive of some sort but suspect boards might be hard to remove if needed in the future. So I'm leaning towards steel nails. Is there a preferred size/shape for the nail and can I rent an electric/pneumatic gun to help do the job ?

Also what is best way and what are the best tools to do a good job on the 45degree corners ?

And finally, what preparation should be done to the boards before fitting ? I suspect sanding and priming/undercoat.

smashey

Sand, prime, nail gun and mitre saw.

Sorted.

Xennon

I prefer the idea of screw fixing them. Its more work but when it comes to taking them off again in a few years when "the boss" decides its time for a new floor, or you want to repaint (far easier with the skirting off) then its a pretty easy job.

Wertz

While I agree with screwing on the skirtings, I'd balk at the idea of removing them for painting...painting what...the walls? The wood itself? What about filling and caulking? Masking tape is the way to go here IMO.

OP if you're not confident about mitring corners, a lot of carpenters do internal 90 degree joints with a moulded template where they only cut the moulded piece to fit to the adjacent moulding...quicker and perhaps neater. Prime and U/C before hanging, then fill, sand, caulk and finish coat.

iMax

I just did new skirting in a bedroom at home after fitting a laminate floor over the weekend.

The walls were so bad (30+ year old house) & off that I ended up having to screw several of the boards on, which I didn't really want to do, but I'm not expecting them to come off again anytime soon either. Look well but a lot of work.

Xennon

I'd balk at the idea of removing them for painting...painting what...the walls? The wood itself? What about filling and caulking?

I should have qualified that with "I HATE painting"
I have varnished skirting around the rooms, masking tape doesn't stick to it that well, so I pull the skirting off when Im doing a room. Granted I dont have caulking on the skirting, but most of them look fine.

I respect yer baulking tho as I do trust your advice in the matters of painting.

Wertz

Ah it's varnish you have....I can somewhat understand that then. It can be a pain to get masking to take to some varnishes, especially if dusty, and bleed-through can be a problem if it's not stuck fast. Takes some patience to get the skirting back on without marking your fresh walls though...
Being natural wood, you don't really require caulk, unless the carpentry is particularly bad. You can also get away with not filling the screwholes.
Caulking/filling is de rigeur if you have painted woodwork...

gsxr1

internal joints look terrible if mitered.

scribing the joint gives much better results. For this you use a coping saw or a jigsaw with a scribing blade

A finish nailer ie. second fix Paslode is the proper tool for the job but screws and oval nails will also work 50mm*2.5 hardened steel nails can be on any block walls.

I also use construction adhesive which can help prevent cupping.

If you have the space outside it is a good idea to prime the skirting before you use it. A small roller is perfect for this. It saves an evening on your knees.

Dont unpack the skirting till you start the job. the red deal starts to cup after a couple of days and becomes impossible to use.

Chadwicks sell the worst skirting in dublin/ kildare area.

Goodwins sell better skirting. Mccarthy's in Prosperous sell middle of the road stuff. Make sure it has not been stored out side. It will be a dark reddish colour . Don't be afraid to send it back. Its your money .

ennisjim

Can someone please explain caulking and where it would be used with fitted skirting boards ? I've used various fillers in the past and have heard the term 'caulk' but never knew what it was. Googled it but I'm still not clear what it would mean for skirting. Thanks

Wertz

Caulk is an acrylic gap/joint filler, usually white, that comes in a tube like silicone or gripfill. You use a mastic gun to pump it. It's used to fill the gaps where skirting/architrave butts to walls or to other woodwork.
Caulk is not like powder fillers, it can't be sanded, you have to make sure to smooth it whilst it's still wet. It's also somewhat flexible so that it will move instead of just cracking if there is expansion or movement in floors/walls.


[edit] gsxr1; scribing is what I meant when I mentioned a moulded template...just didn't know the right term. I assume cupping is like bowing?

ennisjim

Thanks Wertz. I presume caulk can be painted ?

Also I found following description at bottom of http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/templates/content_lookup.jsp?content=/content/how_to/skirting_boards/skirting_boards.jsp&noleftnav=true

Wertz

Yes it can be painted...needs to cure for a day before it can be overpainted with oil though...for emulsion, an hour or two will do.

viking

gsxr1 wrote: »

internal joints look terrible if mitered.

scribing the joint gives much better results. For this you use a coping saw or a jigsaw with a scribing blade

+1

Scribing is the way to go, it looks so much better than a mitred cut.

gsxr1

Wertz wrote: »

Caulk is an acrylic gap/joint filler, usually white, that comes in a tube like silicone or gripfill. You use a mastic gun to pump it. It's used to fill the gaps where skirting/architrave butts to walls or to other woodwork.
Caulk is not like powder fillers, it can't be sanded, you have to make sure to smooth it whilst it's still wet. It's also somewhat flexible so that it will move instead of just cracking if there is expansion or movement in floors/walls.


[edit] gsxr1; scribing is what I meant when I mentioned a moulded template...just didn't know the right term. I assume cupping is like bowing?

yes . also refered to as dishing.

there are grooves milled into the back of most red deal skirting to help prevent this happening. .

When skirting is purchased in long length there will be 5 or 6 lengths wrapped in cling film. this is enough to keep it in shape. till its cut .

Wertz

Ah so that's what those grooves are for...I always assumed it was for adhesive for fixing or something.
One other tip for the OP; red deal is a resinous wood, especially any knots...use a decent brand of primer or else a knot killer prior to applying undercoats or finishes; the finish will last much longer.

ennisjim

Cupping, bowing, dishing.... scary stuff Earlier in the build I bought window boards (approx 5m lengths) and stored them for a month or two and when I went to use them they were cupped and had to buy a whole new set (hope to make basic stairs to loft with the old ones) so I would like to avoid a repeat performance for the skirting.

So if the recommendation is to do as much prep as possible before fitting I was wondering how many days will the boards be unpacked for and where they should be stored before unpacking and while being prepared ? Prep work would I guess be sanding, priming and undercoat. I could store in house (currently about 15 degrees with underfloor heating) or in a nearby shed.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Wertz

IMO basically anywhere that's not damp or excessively cold.
WRT your window boards, make sure and prime and U/C ALL the surfaces, especially the endgrain....this will make them less liable to warp/bow/split after fitting, which can happen when condensation forms on windows in a cold house or when plaster is curing
The like of windowboards and skirting don't really need to acclimatise in the same way that floorboards would...you can just unpack them, paint n prep, store and then fit.

ennisjim

Thanks Wertz. Do you think I would need to be concerned about cupping/warping/etc if I prep'd the boards one weekend and fitted them the following weekend ? Boards will be red deal I think.

Wertz

Unless it's in the room you're putting the olympic sized pool in, I'd say you're fine.

GreeBo

ennisjim wrote: »

Cupping, bowing, dishing.... scary stuff Earlier in the build I bought window boards (approx 5m lengths) and stored them for a month or two and when I went to use them they were cupped and had to buy a whole new set (hope to make basic stairs to loft with the old ones) so I would like to avoid a repeat performance for the skirting.

Are you sure they were not just warped?
Were they stored flat?

ennisjim

Yes GreeBo they were stored flat. They developed a slight U shape when looked at in profile. Not sure if that is called 'cupping'. Carpenter looked at them and said they were useless for window boards so went out and got new ones. All done and dusted at this stage. On the positive side they were relatively cheap.

GreeBo

ennisjim wrote: »

Yes GreeBo they were stored flat. They developed a slight U shape when looked at in profile. Not sure if that is called 'cupping'. Carpenter looked at them and said they were useless for window boards so went out and got new ones. All done and dusted at this stage. On the positive side they were relatively cheap.

yup, sounds like cupping to me!

ennisjim

One last thing... Is it feasible for a DIYer to use some sort of power nailing tool to nail skirting onto block/plastered wall ? Can such things be rented ?

gsxr1

ennisjim wrote: »

One last thing... Is it feasible for a DIYer to use some sort of power nailing tool to nail skirting onto block/plastered wall ? Can such things be rented ?

for nailing to masonary you would be beter off with 21 once hammer and steel nails.
The nailers can be rented but the hardened palode air gun nails will set you back a couple of hundred euro per box. They are very expensive.

the gun is a very trick bit of kit. most chippys dont use them.

You need to rent a compressor as well.

I would advise the old fashion route.

You could rent a second fix finish nailer. simple to use and I see B&Q are now selling nails in there DIY tools section.

watch out for those pipes!!!