Roof Tiles And Slates

DJKAV

I`ve bought a cottage and I`m after getting a engineers report saying I need to get the roof done(AS there is some tiles missing and it`s sagging abit) .. on the cottage there is 940 old slates over 40 years old . I`m after getting 2000 roof tiles a bit thicker but with the same lenght and size ... Has anybody any suggestions what a roofer would cost to replace my tiles with the new ones I`ve bought or is it that hard that I couldn`t tackle it myself ...
Has anybody done this themselves or have rough prices what it would coat me if I supply all the materials myself ?AND I JUST NEED THE MAN FOR THE JOB ???

orwellgeorge

Tiles and slates don't mix. If the roof is sagging then change the roof, ie rafters etc, no tjust htre slates or tiles.

DJKAV

DJKAV wrote: »

Has anybody done this themselves or have rough prices what it would coat me if I supply all the materials myself ?AND I JUST NEED THE MAN FOR THE JOB ???

I was recently quoted €2200 for labour only to erect trusses and slate a garage roof, 5.5m x 7m in size. Doing it myself now!

sculptor

That's a beautiful cottage, don't spoil it with bad materials and don't try make it look like a bungalow, what age is it?
Maybe you could put the slates on the front and the tiles on the back.
Good luck.

bertie1

You really need a roofer to look at it , You may have to cast a ring beam to tie in the walls for the new roof , I have a cottage & had to do it ,

You may as well put up solar panels while the roof is off & a velux in the roof to get more light into that attic room

muffler

bertie1 wrote: »

You may as well put up solar panels while the roof is off & a velux in the roof to get more light into that attic room

Just to expand on this point - it would be a good idea to fit the velux with a view to eliminating the gable window in the attic. This would then allow for a pitched roof to replace the flat roof on the side extension whether done now or at a later date.

No idea as to who you would get or the cost.

sculptor

How did they get the gable window into the chimmney breast?
It's features like this that create character.
Like I said be careful or it will end up looking like a bungalow.
But sure it will be a grand country when we have it level and straighten all the bends.

Jimbo

muffler wrote: »

Just to expand on this point - it would be a good idea to fit the velux with a view to eliminating the gable window in the attic. This would then allow for a pitched roof to replace the flat roof on the side extension whether done now or at a later date.

No idea as to who you would get or the cost.

Also if the room is being used/intended for use as a habitable room(e.g. bedroom), the velux will have to be fire-escapable

DJKAV

thanks very mush for comments ansd suggestions ... as for the window in the end i`ve only noticed that now ! ...
has anybody got any good roof slate sites? or price guides for timber and felt? what is the proper distance spaces for the rafters? and beams ...

DJKAV

cottage is 100 years old .... side ext is 17 years ... ext has to be knocked as no insulation some damp ... can i not just build another wall around and insulate that one ... ?

Mellor

sculptor wrote: »

How did they get the gable window into the chimmney breast?

I don't think its a chimney, same as the opposite side,

jimbo78 wrote: »

Also if the room is being used/intended for use as a habitable room(e.g. bedroom), the velux will have to be fire-escapable

not a problem at all. Velex windows are escape compliant.

DJKAV wrote: »

thanks very mush for comments ansd suggestions ... as for the window in the end i`ve only noticed that now ! ...
has anybody got any good roof slate sites? or price guides for timber and felt? what is the proper distance spaces for the rafters? and beams ...

Teagral have a pretty good site with plenty of details, they also sell lots of trims and other handy pieces.
As for prices a local builders is best bet
rafters at 600 centres

Jimbo

Mellor wrote: »

not a problem at all. Velex windows are escape compliant.

Only 'GPL' Top-hung veluxes are fire-escape compliant. Min. width/height 450mm, min area 0.33 sq/m. Plus the bottom of the window has to be between 600mm and 1100mm off the floor.

muffler

jimbo78 wrote: »

Only 'GPL' Top-hung veluxes are fire-escape compliant. Min. width/height 450mm, min area 0.33 sq/m. Plus the bottom of the window has to be between 600mm and 1100mm off the floor.

I dont think we need go into detail at this point. The OP is concerned about the slates/tiles.

DJKAV

do I need planning for a velux on the front of the house which is overlooking a main road and across from it is a field which there never will be houses as there is a section 42 on it !!

The back is o.k don`t need anything (planning ) for that am i right...

muffler

You will need planning for any type of roof window to the front.

One of the gray areas in the regs is putting velux to the rear of the roof. It is generally acceptable that 3 can be there without planning although you my get different views on this from different PA's.

slavetothegrind

DJKAV wrote: »

cottage is 100 years old .... side ext is 17 years ... ext has to be knocked as no insulation some damp ... can i not just build another wall around and insulate that one ... ?

I've seen that done for the whole house, kingspan insulation all round and then a facia of brick or stone built in front
You may still have a cold floor if not insulated below though....
Would guess roof or downpipes or combo is your damp problem, usually the case.

Mellor

jimbo78 wrote: »

Only 'GPL' Top-hung veluxes are fire-escape compliant. Min. width/height 450mm, min area 0.33 sq/m. Plus the bottom of the window has to be between 600mm and 1100mm off the floor.

I am aware of the conditions, I never said all types, but for every ope there is an escapable sash to suit. So, an escape window will be bought when need, there are other conditions on top of those you listed, and the 600mm height applies to roof lights only, wall mounted windows need a sill at a height of 800

DJKAV

With kingspan insulation all the way around the house?. How do I put another foundation to support these new bricks ? Will the original foundation have to be tied into this new foundation I`m coufussed>?
This surley will stop the damp coming up from the floor won`t it ...

regards
...

orwellgeorge

Putting insulation outside does not mean having a leaf of brick outside as well. You can render straight on to the insulation using waterproof renders. Thus the insulation is fixed onto the existing structure using special fixings.

DJKAV

what are the costs? who stocks it? coverage per bag? size of bag?
method of keying? drying time? Do I just spay this onto existing wall ?

ircoha

DJKAV wrote: »

what are the costs? who stocks it? coverage per bag? size of bag?
method of keying? drying time? Do I just spay this onto existing wall ?

IMO the external rendering onto insulation is still very expensive, there are only one or 2 certified 'doers' in Eire and it is c 150 euro a sq metre.

I would redo the roof timbers and insulate it to about a u value of 0.12 or so
see http://www.rockwool.co.uk/sw55967.asp

scud coat, expanded metal & sand/cerment render, is a far cheaper alternative.

DJKAV

980 slates... I need.

sammurphy

i have to get some slate for my house,how much did ur slates cost?

Mine cost €1.40 each.

DJKAV

??scud coat, expanded metal & sand/cerment render, is a far cheaper alternative. How much would I need for an extention 26foot by 20 foot ??