Chasing a drylined house

sydthebeat

Since drylining with composite plasterboard is becoming very popular, it has opend up the question of chasing the walls for 1st fix electrics.

Does it make sense to continue to chase the block walls rather than try to create a service cavity with timber battens behind CPB??

In this example i would be daubing the CPB onto the inner block leaf.

Any views?

ircoha

sydthebeat wrote: »

Since drylining with composite plasterboard is becoming very popular, it has opend up the question of chasing the walls for 1st fix electrics.

Does it make sense to continue to chase the block walls rather than try to create a service cavity with timber battens behind CPB??

In this example i would be daubing the CPB onto the inner block leaf.

Any views?

Chasing a drylined house, what ever happened to chasing the faire sex?:)

I would imagine that the service cavity [SC] would be a better option iff it is airtight, the extra layer of air should improve the U value.

Also the sockets etc may be a source of draft in the CPB from below unless the chasing is made airtight.


The question is then how to create the SC if u are dabbing the CPB, it would seem u need the PU and the PB separate and maybe fix 50 by 25 battens to the inner leaf through the PU.


http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055235906 and other threads have some thoughts thereon

sinnerboy

( Cut and pasted from thread above )

walls . batten out with timber 50 x 25 . run battens continous at skirting level and at ceiling level . cables and pipes go in 25 batten cavity . run 50 kinsgpan / xtratherm over . foil tape joints .

if internal space allows , run another 50 kinsgpan / xtratherm again and foil tape joints . foil tape to window frames ,door frames and around any other wall penetrations then run foilbacked plasterboard over and skim .

use 25 kinsgpan / xtratherm plasterboard to window / door jambs .

sydthebeat

sinnerboy wrote: »

( Cut and pasted from thread above )

walls . batten out with timber 50 x 25 . run battens continous at skirting level and at ceiling level . cables and pipes go in 25 batten cavity . run 50 kinsgpan / xtratherm over . foil tape joints .

if internal space allows , run another 50 kinsgpan / xtratherm again and foil tape joints . foil tape to window frames ,door frames and around any other wall penetrations then run foilbacked plasterboard over and skim .

use 25 kinsgpan / xtratherm plasterboard to window / door jambs .

but what do you gain??
lets assume a simple dryline of 47.5 CPB.

If you batten out 50 x 25 then you have the added cost and time of the battening. Plus the added time of a more awkward CPB erection.
You are not really gaining anything in airtightness as the main source of draught will be at the electrical outlet.. regardless of battening or not. If the CPB is properly daubed then an air tight bond will be formed... id stand over them to make sure of this. Plus i could see electricians hacking out top rail battens... with daubing theyre actually filling the gap.

sinnerboy

ok - assuming 47.5 - (30+12.5)

Battens eliminate chasing .

Upon inspection before boards go up you can check the integrity of the battens to ensure they are complete and intact ( including seal where cables / pipes penetrate .

Where elec boxes are located - inserts 25 pu behind to genouroulsy ( say min 100mm ) overlap to cut-out in follow on layer

Foil taping boards before plasterboard over is tending to improve air and vapour resistance - compared to butt joint of CPB ( edges often blunted in site handling )

A nice "brucie bonus" is that you can run rad pipes up batten cavity to exit through the wall - easier to hoover .

sydthebeat

i agree with the 'brucie bonus'... its a nice feature not having rad pipes sticking up out of the floor.. .the tilers would love that.

The particular case i have on hand will be incorporating UFH.

The labour involved in battening, PU boarding, taping and plasterboarding is very intensive compared to simply daubing and taping over.

Just thinking out loud here, but couldnt the need to chase be negated by the daubing as well?? daubs tend to be 20mm thick anyway. Any electricians out there may have a view on that. The cables can be held to the wall by 14mm cable tacks.

bbam

We're chasing and daubing the 50mm boards on the inside...
Electrician said that the wires would interfere with the boards going on and make a good finish hard to acheive...

Or the slabbers would hack off insulation off the boards which reduces efficiency...

Its only costing €250 to have a guy come in and do all the chasing, electrician has a contact he uses..

Sounds simple... like many other things, time will tell.

Cheers
bam

bauderline

You really only get one shot at getting it right, my preference would be to take a little extra time and a little extra expense to go the extra mile.

I think there is a lot to be said for sb's belt and braces approach, I am nearly sold on it to be honest, I want as much air tightness as possible and it looks like a good way to go about it.

I assume sealing around the sockets with silicone is a wise decision...

b.

DLBuild

Bauderline, i'm thinking about adopting this approach too.
Just so i'm confident though, what are the advantages of battening and having a cavity vs sticking/screwing the boards directly to the wall?

sinnerboy

look at post 5

DLBuild

ok sorry. Yeah i'd read that but i wasn't sure if there were other reasons aside from no need to chase walls and carrying pipes. My main concern is that it's going to be really difficult to hang pictures, curtain rails, nail skirting board , hang tv etc on outside walls with drylining, so minimising the distance between the plasterboard and the inner leaf might be a help in tackling some of these issues. Has anyone actually drylined yet using either method and if so did they have much trouble with skirting, curtain rails etc?

sinnerboy

pre plan as much as possible and insert hardwood grounds for fixings .

don't go over board - only as required .

if you forget to include one - you can chop it in later

bauderline

I have been living with dry lined walls for the last 5 years. It took me a while to perfect the art of attaching things to the walls. Early attempts using the standard raw plug were a bit of a disaster to say the least....

However there a host of specialised fittings available for fixing things to plasterboard walls and once you work out how to use them properly you can hang just about anything you want from them... Curtains, Flat Screens, Shelves... all no problem at all. For these items I tend use the "butterfly" type fixings or the metal fixing that have stips which explode and twist when to tighten them, they seem to work very well...

For pictures and such you can get cone type raw plugs which screw into the wall and then you can put a screw into them. Quick and handy for lightweight items....

b.