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HRV with fireplaces

  • 03-03-2008 7:16pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭


    I'm designing two new houses for two different clients and both want 'a nice cosy fire'. I've explained how inefficient they are and how HRV is the way to go etc. but they look at me like as if I'm a mad eco warrior.
    The dilemna I now have is how can I install fireplaces (without woodburning stoves, I suggested that) and still use HRV.
    If it is not feasible then I'm back to vents in walls- no HRV.

    It's very frustrating.

    I once convinced a couple that they could buy a top of the range flat screen TV for less than the cost of a fireplace (chimney, foundations etc.). They could then watch a film of a fire on TV if they wanted. They agreed, but watch Sport.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,997 ✭✭✭gally74


    i talked to one company and fireplaces are a no no, however he did suggest getting a chimney with a door i.e. closing it when your not using it, a stove is another option as at least its airtight when not in use.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 667 ✭✭✭bakerbhoy


    Have a look at the wood burning fireplaces here
    http://www.heatmaster.ie/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,570 ✭✭✭Builderfromhell


    Thanks guys. But both clients want an old fashioned fireplace. I see no solution myself other than maybe using HRV in rest of house and putting self closing hinges on room with fireplace.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,956 ✭✭✭✭Villain


    Its funny you think their mad to want an open fireplace, I have omitted one from my build because I want to go for a HRV and people think I am mad!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Ahh ... Viilain . I dont ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 312 ✭✭cwboy


    hi,

    Just wondering if one of these inserts would be ok to use with hrv. It has a door but i heard somewhere its not suitable because of air required for wash of glass door. We love the look of the fire but understand the inefficiencies of the traditional fire.

    http://www.euroheat.co.uk/showroom.php?prod=581&


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 26 -unlaoised-


    does anyone have the idea of the cost of a stove for example a stanley erin stove,
    i'm considering putting a stove in an extension that I am building.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 188 ✭✭MickLimk


    Looks like about €1700 at the moment from this crowd who might be up your direction.
    http://www.gings.ie/stanley%20offers.htm#stoves

    This is the one that has the boiler in it for central heating and hot water. I think the Erin comes in different models, some with and some without the boiler option. I'd guess there's a big price difference between them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,902 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Builderfromhell, the other option is a mechanical flue baffle or closer. One that can seal off the flue when not in use.

    I'd love to see the cost of a fireplace, and I mean total.
    Construction, founds, stack, surround etc
    Lose due to reducted efficiency
    And depriciated value due to reduced BER value


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭ollie30


    as mellor mentions about energy rating for a house with a chimney,is it not possible to get an A rating even with a room sealed firebox/stove.surely if someone goes to the time ,effort and expense of making an additional efficient heating source thats close to airtight it shouldnt affect the ber rating??can someone explain what can or cannot be used please :)also can anyone say if the airwash system on the firebox inserts counter affect hrv/airtightness if air changes of lets say 3 or 4 per hr was achieved,would they be any worse than people using the front/back door often ?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    does anyone have the idea of the cost of a stove for example a stanley erin stove,
    i'm considering putting a stove in an extension that I am building.

    about 2k


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,997 ✭✭✭gally74


    one important thing with stoves is to try to feed them with cold air from the outside, this will also help your energy usage, some stoves are setup for this type of air feed


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,290 ✭✭✭ircoha


    gally74 wrote: »
    one important thing with stoves is to try to feed them with cold air from the outside, this will also help your energy usage, some stoves are setup for this type of air feed

    The attached might cover off the ventilation requirements for this and if the UFH overheats.

    The whole gable wall went today so be interesting to see what the wind does tonight


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 667 ✭✭✭bakerbhoy


    Try google for


    chimneyclosures.com
    Found the flyer for this last night .Multiple suppliers by county.
    Well i asked the missus did we still have it.

    Sure stopped big draughts last night.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,152 ✭✭✭holdfast


    have the chimmney closuer, cant say it is very effective. the rooms would be 23 degrees when there is a fire on and in the morning it goes back to 16 degrees no matter when it is open or closed. but my site is exposed and i think the pressure difference is too great to hope or expect it to seal the chimmney during times when there is no fire.

    i am actual looking at putting a stove either woodpellet or solid fuel to incrrease efficiency and seal the room better. any one reccomend a stove that is sealed from the room and fed air via flue. this way it will not really affect the airtightness. the stove should have a rating of 6-7kw for room heating and 5kw to a boiler or around that. a lot to ask but any help would be great


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 495 ✭✭ardara1


    Why push for an 'A' - I know I'd want an open fire - the amount of carbon you'll save between an B1 and an A of any type will small - perhaps they'll wear thermal underware, turn the stat down a bit and save the same amount of carbon?


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    ardara1 wrote: »
    Why push for an 'A' - I know I'd want an open fire - the amount of carbon you'll save between an B1 and an A of any type will small - perhaps they'll wear thermal underware, turn the stat down a bit and save the same amount of carbon?

    the difference between each rating factor from a D1 upwards is 25kwh/m2/yr.

    If client wants an A rated house the dwelling must meet >50kwh/m2/yr

    I have yet to meet a client who says 'i dont want an A rate, i want a B1 with an open fire'. If they are truly energy conscious they realise the inefficiency of open fires and wouldnt sacrifice a better rating (and the subsequent lower energy costs) for one.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 209 ✭✭smooth operater


    Ye, the whole "A rated" development goes down a charm with the builder


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 411 ✭✭jasperok


    should ones architect inform them when designinng their house that it will be subject to a BER rating certificate, and since when should they have been informing people of this?
    Just curios..


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 209 ✭✭smooth operater


    Its no-ones "responsiblilty" if thats what you mean. This is something buyers are going to have to become aware off.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 411 ✭✭jasperok


    i think there should be more of a advertising/public awarenss campaign to alert people of the importance of what geting a b1 ratings actually means,
    Its grand for those of us empowered by the interent but for those who take what their engineers/architects say as gsopel and don't hear from there awuantancies about it there are going to be some unhappy campers over the next few years.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 afrofish


    If you go for a sealed fireplace (stove) with an outside air supply do you still get a lower energy rating than someone with no fireplaces or chimneys?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,555 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    You shouldnt drag up a thread from 14 months ago.

    Locked.


This discussion has been closed.
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