Timberframe Insulation

foxfordbuild

I am just about to sign the contract for my timberframe and just wanted to check if the insulation I have ordered is any good, the price quoted for below spec is €9 plus VAT for 2000sq ft bungalow, do I need the air tighness membrane ??? they say it needs to be counter battened, what does this involve ? should I get rockwool instead of the fibreglass ?


[FONT=&quot]125mm Kingspan Ridged Insulation Factory Fitted for optimum performance [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Roof - 300mm Fibreglass - Supply Only [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Internal Wall - 100mm Acoustic - Supply Only [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Ground floor Ceiling - 150mm Acoustic - Supply Only [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Moy Vario Air Tightness Membrane - External Walls and Roof [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]37.5mm Insulated Plasterboard for External Walls - Supply Only [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]12.5 mm plasterboard for Internal Walls and Ceiling - Supply Only [/FONT]

sydthebeat

excellent wall insulation....

roof insulation only at current minimum standards, what kind of upgrade can they offer here??
If its the same company im thinking it is, they should be able to offer a PU insulated roof construction.

the airtightness membrane is a goo didea, whats the extra €?

foxfordbuild

€900 extra for the airtightness membrane, what is a PU insulation roof, foam ??

sydthebeat

foxfordbuild wrote: »

€900 extra for the airtightness membrane, what is a PU insulation roof, foam ??

yes, if you could get 200mm PU in the roof youd be looking at an excellent spec.
Incorporate at least 100mm PU in the floor
Incorporate a HRV system
Get an air tightness test done after plastering, find and resolve issues and again test on completion.
Incorporate a good efficient boiler, WPB or HP, or if oil or gas make sure its at least 93% efficient.

sinnerboy

Agree with syd and add

- often around windows , especially bay windows you get studs of the externally wall very closely spaced together . this leaves very little cavity to infill the 125 insulation . if this occurs use a thicker composite plasterboard internally - suggest the 82.5 board ( 75 pu + 12.5 pb ) - ( to those areas only )

- if using HRV - don't use - open fire - trickle vents in windows - "traditional" wall vents ( holes in wall )

- make sure the ( usually blue ) outer breathing membrane of the timber frame panels is not torn during build , or if it is that it is repaired without delay

- tape seal your windows frames to the timber frame system internally before plasterboard goes on . tape seal to lap onto ATM

- make sure that where pipes and cable pentrate the air tightness membrane ( ATM) that the ATM is re sealed

- appoint an air tightness tester to visit at least twice

visit no 1 - pre test inspection - after pipes and cables go in ( called m+e first fix ) and when roof is felted and battened and when windows are in BUT before plaster board

- visit no 2 - the test - after plaster board and second fix m+e ( rads up , light switches etc installed )

foxfordbuild

Thanks, I appreciate the help