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Quinnlite Blocks

  • 25-02-2008 11:18am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 899 ✭✭✭


    Folks,

    I was considering these as a possibility for the inner leaf rather than dense block, however I am not sure if they would be able to support the concrete first floor...

    I have a sneaking suspicion I looked at this before and determined they would not be suitable... anyone confirm this for me /

    best rgs. baud.


Comments

  • Subscribers Posts: 42,171 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    In residential dwellings a 150mm wide 5N block is recommended for
    supporting concrete slabs.

    http://www.quinn-group.com/downloads/quinnlite_technical_manual.pdf


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 899 ✭✭✭bauderline


    syd,

    thanks for that !

    Don't remember seeing that document before, must have missed it..

    Again maybe I am missing something, but you can get 100mm B5 blocks these should support the floors without having to go for the 150mm block ?

    best rgs. p.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,433 ✭✭✭sinnerboy


    Our friends in Homebond don't like QL blocks . This may be irrelevant to you but better to know this . HB don't "approve" materials or systems but they "find them acceptable" . or not .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 899 ✭✭✭bauderline


    SB,

    Not that relevant to me I suppose as its my own house. To ask the question though, what options similar to QL are out there ?

    rgs. b.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 136 ✭✭YourAverageJoe


    Bauderline,

    Just wondering what did you decide in the end, use Quinn-lie or not use them? I am trying to make the same decision myself at the moment.

    Thanks


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    100mm blockwork is grand for pure compression strenght but very flimsey if they have to cope with anything that would cause them to belly. Also seating for the slabs is generally min 100mm.

    changing your inner leaf to Quinn-lite or Acheson & Glover Alphatherm will provide the same strenght as normal blockwork while reducing some of the common cold bridges at floors and eaves.

    Increasing the inner leaf thickness to 150mm blocks will also allow you to transfer all your loadings to the inner leaf, meaning that you can further reduce cold bridging by joining the insulation in different elements.

    Plastering seems to be the main problem with light weight blockwork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭WUFF


    For what its worth, these blocks have been used for years in the UK residential construction area, could never understand why they never got more widespread use in this country.

    I have recently used them on a single story extention, 310mm cavity wall construction with 60mm kingspan insulation. Internal leaf lined with insulated slab. This has produced an extremely warm and easy to heat area.

    If you are going to use lightweight blocks, I would also suggest you use lightweight coursing units and steel lintols with intergrated insulation instead of concrete.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭sas


    WUFF wrote: »
    I would also suggest you use lightweight coursing units and steel lintols with intergrated insulation instead of concrete.

    What's a coursing unit?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭WUFF


    sas wrote: »
    What's a coursing unit?
    Sorry, by this I mean a lightweight brick, avoids the use of concrete bricks around window/door reveals, lintols ect,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,550 ✭✭✭Slig


    WUFF wrote: »
    Sorry, by this I mean a lightweight brick, avoids the use of concrete bricks around window/door reveals, lintols ect,

    Very good point. It would defeat the principle of thermal insulation if you puncture it with cold bridges.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 136 ✭✭YourAverageJoe


    thanks


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