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how to leave attic space for later conversion?

  • 22-02-2008 9:53am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,056 ✭✭✭


    Hi,

    We are building quite a large bungalow style house and the downstairs area will be big enough for us at the moment.So we are considering leaving the attic space and devolping it at a later stage.Firstly is this a good route to take or is it better to try to do it all in one go?

    Are there any pitfalls with going down this route.

    If we do,then what should we do at this stage,put in windows on gables,velux's,floors,walls,electrics,plumbing or can we leave some of these out.Basically anyone with experience of this,how did you go and anyone with a good knowledge,how would you go about it?

    What about planning,should we show the attic plan on the drawings?

    I would be most grateful for any help and advice you all can offer on this.I want to sound this out before deciding with our house designer.

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,041 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    It may be a good idea to put the large joists in the ceiling (9 inch) rather than the normal ones (6 inch). Otherwise they would have to be reinforced/replaced at a later date. Normal ceiling joists aren't meant to be weight bearing on a permanent basis.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,902 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Size all roof members for the full loading, use a attic conversion truss, or a cut roof with space for the room. Run up elec and water lines to link into later, trim out space were veluxs will go, then block up for roofing, basicly do as much now when it is easier


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,290 ✭✭✭ircoha


    Frame out in the floor where the stairs will come through and then infill for the normal attic access.

    The big question here is where to insulate in the roof space.

    If i was doing the gig I would insulate now for as if u were going to convert now, ie along the slope.

    Have u checked the height issues re Part M for habitable space for the attic, do before u truss the roof

    If u think u will need gable windows, put the lintel in now and build the block work as if window was going in and then in fill before u plaster.

    IMO velux windows are not very effective energy wise so I would only use then as a last resort, eg small one in ensuite.

    Put in the 110mm waste for ensuites now

    Wire and plumb for separate zones, I would run independent lighting and wiring circuits from the fuse board now.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    I used 9 *2 inch attic type trusses .

    I ran 13 amp power and lighting seprate lighting feed . heating pipes ready to be tee'd from the hot press downstairs.

    I did not plan for a staircase and now have hassle of relocating sewage vent pipes. They are in between the joists I need to cut out for the stairs.

    Beware of this as cutting holes to relocate pipes after weakens the joists ans should be avoided


    Get the velux windows in now so wont have the added expense of a roofer coming back to cut them in later. Fire escape type.


    Consider en suite services .


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 509 ✭✭✭bertie1


    If it was me I would floor it now as well that way the slab nails won't pop when they go flooring after the downstairs ceilings are plastered & tell the electrician you are going to floor before the wiring starts so the cables will be out of the way of the flooring .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,902 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    gsxr1 wrote: »
    I did not plan for a staircase and now have hassle of relocating sewage vent pipes. They are in between the joists I need to cut out for the stairs.

    Beware of this as cutting holes to relocate pipes after weakens the joists ans should be avoided

    Can you give details on exactly why you need to move SVP, as well as what you are doing. The part about cutting joists is alarming.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Mellor wrote: »
    Can you give details on exactly why you need to move SVP, as well as what you are doing. The part about cutting joists is alarming.
    I have to trim out the joists to land a stair case .

    simple enough job . I am going to double up the joists with another 9 by 2 on both sides right back to the wall plate the trim out the opening with doubles and shoes . I am a chippy by trade.

    vent pipes are running in between the joists where the staircase cut out belongs. where they come up through the house can not be changed
    . . I may have to plan so I can pipe straight up the en suite wall with 4" Waven. Or put the vent tiles on the front of the house.

    It is something I should have planned for but was overlooked


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,902 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    I understood the problem, it was the solution that got my attention, are you planning on re-routing the SVP through a joist now? and up somewhere else


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,167 ✭✭✭gsxr1


    Mellor wrote: »
    I understood the problem, it was the solution that got my attention, are you planning on re-routing the SVP through a joist now? and up somewhere else


    No not through a joist. I give out to plumbers all the time for drilling joists .

    My house would fall apart.:)

    Going to build a double stud or box where the SVP is piped to attic and bring it up and out with 4" sewer .

    Its not where I want the wall but its to late to change, now the house is built.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,056 ✭✭✭gooner99


    Hi,

    Hope you guys can help out here.Debating whether to build a bungalow without attic conversion or one with attic conversion.

    My thoughts are that building one without an attic conversion will result in a better insulated and air tight house compared to having the attic converted,am I correct?

    Also it it correct to say that if I build a house without attic conversion to a floor area of 200sqm,that it would cost the same as building a smaller house with attic conversion which would also have a combined floor area of 200sqm.I will be going down the timber frame route (turn key).Am I right in thinking that contractors and timber frame companies quote on the floor area of a house only?

    Sorry if any of these questions are a bit green.

    Thanks,

    Denis


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,676 ✭✭✭✭smashey


    Merged with your previous thread.


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,172 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    gooner99 wrote: »
    Hi,

    Hope you guys can help out here.Debating whether to build a bungalow without attic conversion or one with attic conversion.

    1. My thoughts are that building one without an attic conversion will result in a better insulated and air tight house compared to having the attic converted,am I correct?

    2. Also it it correct to say that if I build a house without attic conversion to a floor area of 200sqm,that it would cost the same as building a smaller house with attic conversion which would also have a combined floor area of 200sqm.

    I will be going down the timber frame route (turn key).Am I right in thinking that contractors and timber frame companies quote on the floor area of a house only?

    Sorry if any of these questions are a bit green.

    Thanks,

    Denis

    1. It depends on the construction and is not necessarily correct by default.
    If you have the attic converted the best way to insulate is to located insulation between and above the rafters. This way you can use the whole rafter thickness for insulating, and you can incorporate an air tightness membrane below the rafters with less fuss. Its called a 'warm roof' construction.

    2. no. its cheaper to build the combined floor area. If you consider that about 40% of construction costs are in the roof, Then it makes sense that the smaller roof are you have the less the cost to build (which is what you would have with, say, 1400 on ground and 600 on first floor).


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