I need water!

TheThreeDegrees

dont think I can handle the noise of the fans anymore whilst gaming/oc'ing.

Its begining to sound like that old 360 I had!

I just want to start off cooling the CPU and then add from there if necessary.

Can someone suggest where I could start?

I do not mind separates or kits and would prefare to buy quality/performance rather than budget.

Should mention its on an x38 board and with a Q6600 in the driving seat.

ta.

ricka05

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=70

There you can find answers to most off your questions....

TheThreeDegrees

thanks.
those guys over there look pretty serious!

also found this thread:
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2055183907&highlight=petra

Well ive decided to go for CPU only cooling and this is what ive come up with:

D-TEK FuZion CPU Block with D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit
ThermoChill PA120.3 (rad)
XSPC Bay Reservoir Clear Silver with some half inch tubing to go around.(reservoir)
D-Tek DB-1 (aka DD-CPX1) (pump)

The reason i'm going for this pump is because its supposedly the quitest out there and as i'm doing only the CPU then it should be powerful enough.also at any time I can add one more to the loop.

This including shipping will probably come to around £140 which is a snip under 200 yoyo's from here http://www.aqua-pcs.co.uk/index.asp

any thoughts critisisms etc will be tolerated!

TheThreeDegrees

Well I pulled the trigger..

Fittings - 1/2" Fittings

CPU Block - D-Tek FuZion Universal with NozzleKit - for Core2Duo & QuadCore

Pump DangerDen CPX1 D-Tek DB1 (same pump different name)

Radiator - ThermoChill PA120.2 (i'm only covering the CPU)
Custom 8800GT/G92 Cooling Kit by iandh is available from Petra's not sure if its coming to Europe though:(
More about that here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=165270

Tubing - Tygon R6303 Tubing 1/2" (they had no 7/16 in stock)cant wait three weeks!

Additive - FluidXP EXTREME

UV Dye - Invisible Blue :cool:

Swiftech MCRES Micro Reservoir

That fancy lot came to €278.
Small price to pay for SILENCE me thinks.

ricka05

[QUOTE=Custom 8800GT/G92 Cooling Kit by iandh is available from Petra's not sure if its coming to Europe though:(
More about that here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=165270

Tubing - Tygon R6303 Tubing 1/2" (they had no 7/16 in stock)cant wait three weeks!
.[/QUOTE]

Its nade to cool your 8800GT's GDDR and voltage regulators -you still need somerthing to cool gpu core.....
Id say get Swiftech MCW60 Universal VGA Water block c/w Ramsink /mosfet cooling kit....


P.S.
Where are u getting all this stuff?

One more thing -you'll need horse clips , fans , thermal paste..

papu

find some bubble wrap or somthing to put under the pump , if it lies against the case it makes all kinds of noise

TheThreeDegrees

ricka05 wrote: »

.
Where are u getting all this stuff?

One more thing -you'll need horse clips , fans , thermal paste..

I found all that from these two suppliers in the UK:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/
http://www.over-clock.co.uk/acatalog/

I will have a look at that VGA kit Ricka05 but I'm not sure if the small pump can handle the CPU and the VGA.

Really Really want to avoid using fans if possible.Even if the rad has to be out the window!
Do you think that could be possible?Maybe I should get the PA 120.3?But equally size is important as I would like to conceal as much as possible.

yes Papu I will put that pump in a sock or something:)

The good thing about that pump is that its submersable.

ricka05

what about Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump ?
1200l/h -it should easily handle cpu , gpu....plus it has a speed controller....

TheThreeDegrees

I'd go for this pump if someone could assure me that I will not hear it run.

I used to have an aquarium beside my bed and the pump after a while got on my nerves.
And it was a good pump one of the Eheim type.

the whole purpose of the water solution for me is to achieve a silent solution whilst being able to play with the FSB.


on the tubing side of things specialtech have this one
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=2157&cat=571&page=1
seems that over-clock are awaiting delievery of stock on a lot of items.

can you use that on half inch fittings?It says it needs connectors..not sure where for.

also on the coolant side of things is deionised the best option or will the feser one type do?

requiem1

TheThreeDegrees wrote: »

I'd go for this pump if someone could assure me that I will not hear it run.

can you use that on half inch fittings?It says it needs connectors..not sure where for.

also on the coolant side of things is deionised the best option or will the feser one type do?

You won't hear it run if you place something under it like this

You can't use that tubing but you can use this and its available on specialtech and would be my personal advice as i've had a fair amount of leaks using 1/2 stuff even with clamps

Go for a non conductive solution and my choice would be fesser one cause you don't get the whole condensation effect with it as you do with deionised water and you won't have to replace the liquid as frequently. Also when leak testing you don't have to worry too much if it gets on your hardware.
If you use water and say a dye it tends to stain the pcb and leave marks. My 8800 is sporting a nice pink summer look after a leaking incident

TheThreeDegrees

very nice:)

nibble

You're gonna hear any pump, just some a bit less than others. I'd reccomend the MCP655 vario so you can tune flow/noise.

TheThreeDegrees

Ok i'm heeding your advice.

On the "no fan" issue.Is it possible?

i'm guessing..bigger rad means less need for fans?

anyone looking for a d-tek fuZion this crowd have them but they are awaiting the accelerator kit.
http://www.watercooled-pcs.co.uk/index.php

ricka05

Well , you'll have to find out it yourself.....try to run it without fans and monitor the temps(youll have to forget about any oc, check your mobo manual-is it possible to enable auto shat down when temps goes overpermissible) .
Leave some sparse for fans-in case of to high temps .

papu

ricka05 wrote: »

check your mobo manual-is it possible to enable auto shat down
.

sorry i spat tea all over my desk

ricka05

papu wrote: »

sorry i spat tea all over my desk

Sorry for my english , but i think we know what i meen :mad:

requiem1

The whole fanless thing is pretty hard to do as there is going to be a build up of heat and what most people don't realise is that all D5 begin to have problems after 60 degrees and also your tubing will have a max temp of something in and around the 70 degree range. A mate of mine's tubing melted after having a 1ghz overclock running for half a year. He got compensation for parts off the tubing manufacturer but still you'll need fans.

If you throw a gpu in the loop you'll deffo need fans unless you want to get one of those stupid looking passive radiators that are the length of the computer. Yate loons are the way to go due to their high cfm to low db level. I use sharkoons and they are a bit noisy to be honest

TheThreeDegrees

backup plan..;)

Anti

requiem1

TheThreeDegrees wrote: »

backup plan..;)

I've seen guys place their radiators against small air con units

RoyalMarine

when i lived in thailand it we had ambient room temps of about 40 odd degree's.

my pc went nuts with it. wasnt a huge spec but it ran very hot. could barely touch some parts after gaming for an hour.

in the end i bought a mini air con unit for the spare room, and put it facing into the pc with the side panel off.

sadly to say the condensation caused it to die.

TheThreeDegrees

yes Anti I see where your coming from BUT and its a big BUT..the proof is in the pudding so they say!

Are you concerned about flow rate as the distance is too great from rad to pc?

Well if I dont try I will never know.

requiem1

TheThreeDegrees wrote: »

yes Anti I see where your coming from BUT and its a big BUT..the proof is in the pudding so they say!

Are you concerned about flow rate as the distance is too great from rad to pc?

Well if I dont try I will never know.

flow rates are the most important part of water cooling so i'd say thats what he's getting at. anything that kills flow rates like elbow fittings and increased length of tubing tends to increase temps.

In saying that more water means lower temps and given the rad is outside it would be quite cold. Vadim used dual D5's in a single massive loop that included three triple radiators cause they needed to increase flow rates to gain a stable overclock

nibble

requiem1 wrote: »

flow rates are the most important part of water cooling so i'd say thats what he's getting at. anything that kills flow rates like elbow fittings and increased length of tubing tends to increase temps.

In saying that more water means lower temps and given the rad is outside it would be quite cold. Vadim used dual D5's in a single massive loop that included three triple radiators cause they needed to increase flow rates to gain a stable overclock

Seriously don't worry about an elbow or slightly longer tubing run in a build, it will make no real world difference to temp, you're just being anal worrying about those small details. As long as you have enough flow for a loop (a single D5/DDC would do it for most) temps will be fine.
More water does not mean lower temps, it just means it would take slightly longer to reach the same final temp.
A single D5 @ setting 3 in a loop with a PA120.3, Apogee GTX, ~4ft tubing and an elbow coming from the base of the Ek res holds my B3 Q6600 to 27/24/21/21 idle and 39/36/35/35 loaded. This is with D12SM Yate's at 5v, so low airflow (and silence:D) At stock albeit.... I know, I know.

TheThreeDegrees

yeah but nibble did you take a look at the photo on the previous page where it shows where I want to position the rad?

what would be the max distance the rad could be from the unit?hard to tell i guess.

nibble

TheThreeDegrees wrote: »

yeah but nibble did you take a look at the photo on the previous page where it shows where I want to position the rad?

what would be the max distance the rad could be from the unit?hard to tell i guess.

Well for one I wouldn't bother with the rad outside idea anyway, sure temps would be a bit better but way too much hassle for what would ultimately be pointlessly lower temps?
But I bet a D5 at full power would probably do it even with the extra few feet of tubing.
If you really want to go a bit overboard just do two loops; one cpu and one gpu. Stick a PA120.3 in both with some sloooow fans and you're set. Maybe just go with a PA120.2 for the gpu loop to cut out another fan.