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Insulated Cavity Closers

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  • 30-01-2008 10:24pm
    #1
    snow white
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13 ✭


    Hi Just wondering has anyone used the above closers and where did you get them from.
    Have been onto Brooks and then can get in Thermabate closers from IDL in Dublin but are an outragious price, 39 euro per 3m lengths and I need 130 linear meters of it.... My House is up to window level on ground floor and its moving along very fast, want to have it well insulated and sealed and airtight so want to use these closers to seal up the reveals properly.
    Any advice greatly needed

    Thanks ;)


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    #2
    250882
    Closed Accounts Posts: 206 ✭✭250882


    I take it for this lenght of cavity closer you are referring to the cavity closer at the wall plate. Traditional detail was to close the cavity with a slate. cast in a concrete beam with a 50mm insulation upstand level with the inner face of the inner blockwork leaf, mesh and plaster. If over window heads look into using insulated steel lintels or just use standard prestressed cills with a 100mm wide one under the outer leaf and a 150mm wide one under the inner leaf and fill the gap with 50mm insulation, also tidys up the stepped DPC, again a standard detail.


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    #3
    snow white
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13 ✭snow white


    Hi Thanks for that but its cavity closers for around the reveals of the doors and windows


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    #4
    sas
    Registered Users Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭sas


    http://www.richmondbp.ie/ sell them too. No idea what they cost.


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    #5
    sydthebeat
    Subscribers Posts: 41,228 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    snow white wrote: »
    Hi Thanks for that but its cavity closers for around the reveals of the doors and windows

    I think they are a bit of overkill, especially at that price. Ive seen just as good detailing here where the cavity is filled with PU board and sealed with foam insulation for the 150mm width of the dpc. I dont encourage the practice of cutting blocks to create a return at opes, i actually prefer to see the cavity retained and filled as described above.
    Plus those cavity closers dont stop the cold bridge where the cill extends beyond the ope. I cant understand why cills arent rebated where the inner corners meet the inner leaf.


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    #6
    ardara1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 495 ✭✭ardara1


    They're used in the English market where the walls finish parallel - over here we turn the inner block to give us a solid mount to fix our framing to - which is a FAR better detail than in ENgland. Over there the windows and doors a brought to the front of the opening and fixed more to the out brick work with tie - leaving them more exposed to the elements and they are more prone to thermal bridging problems.
    Doing the norm - and closing the gap with 25-40mm of PU is a better job (And less expensive!)


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    #7
    sas
    Registered Users Posts: 1,282 ✭✭✭sas


    ardara1 wrote: »
    They're used in the English market where the walls finish parallel - over here we turn the inner block to give us a solid mount to fix our framing to - which is a FAR better detail than in ENgland. Over there the windows and doors a brought to the front of the opening and fixed more to the out brick work with tie - leaving them more exposed to the elements and they are more prone to thermal bridging problems.
    Doing the norm - and closing the gap with 25-40mm of PU is a better job (And less expensive!)

    How does using an insulated cavity closer affect the positioning of windows and doors and make thermal bridging more likely?

    I personally feel that using only 25 -40mm of insulation in a 4 inch band (width of the turned block in the described detail above) either side of every window and door is a poor detail thermally speaking.

    Or am I misinterpreting the described detail above and there will in fact be more than 25-40mm due to overlapping etc?


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    #8
    ardara1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 495 ✭✭ardara1


    sas wrote: »
    How does using an insulated cavity closer affect the positioning of windows and doors and make thermal bridging more likely?

    I personally feel that using only 25 -40mm of insulation in a 4 inch band (width of the turned block in the described detail above) either side of every window and door is a poor detail thermally speaking.

    Or am I misinterpreting the described detail above and there will in fact be more than 25-40mm due to overlapping etc?

    Pushing the The framing should be brought in as far as possbile within the insulation layer to reduce the bridge path. The bridge effect is in 3D remember - not just 2D thru' the frame its self. Next regs in UK will recommend positioning framing further into the walls as is done in Ireland.


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