Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Hot Water Nightmare

  • 29-01-2008 1:19pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,693 ✭✭✭


    I am unable to get decent pressure in my hot water in spite of having a pump. The cold water works fine, but the hot water starts very strong and after a few seconds pressure drops badly. My guess is that either the cylinder is slowing the flow somehow, there is air in the system, or the hot water side of the pump is not working as it should. Part of the doubt comes from the fact that when I close the hot water tap the pump continues to work for 10-15 seconds before it stops, indicating a possible shortage of supply (pure guess).
    Any ideas how how I could troubleshoot this?
    If there is a plumber here who thinks he could solve the mystery, please feel free to PM me.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 656 ✭✭✭davidoco


    Do you have a dedicated feed from your hot water cylinder either. On top of the cylinder there woudl be a flange which from the side takes hot water to shower and from the top hot water to all other outlets.

    Your thermostatic showing fitting may just need a service. They get dirty and clog up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,693 ✭✭✭Zynks


    Slightly different here. There is one output that splits into two. One for overflow, and the other goes straight into the pump. You maybe right about the thermostatic, but to be more precise, this system never performed well since it was installed. It is just worse now.

    How can I test the thermostatic? Plumbing troubleshooting is not my forte...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 656 ✭✭✭davidoco


    Zynks wrote: »
    Slightly different here. There is one output that splits into two. One for overflow, and the other goes straight into the pump.


    Just want to check one thing. Are all your taps fed from the pump? If not can you describe where they get their hot water from on the pipework on the cylinder? Also when you say it splits in two is that on the fitting which is in the cylinder or is there a small length of pipe and then the split.

    Each and every and I mean every booster pump has a detailed guide on how the pipework from the cylinder should be. This is because tiny air bubbles in the hot water cylinder must not reach the pump as it leads to issues with wear and pumping capacity. There is a device that can be fitted on the cylinder easily if this turns out to be the problem.

    I suspect it's your pipework and supply instead of the actual thermostic device at this stage.

    Also for troubleshooting on the pump you could switch the hot and cold feeds to the pump to see if the pump is faulty but you may need a plumber for that.

    NB I'm not a plumber - you'll have to pay for one of them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,332 ✭✭✭311


    davidoco wrote: »
    Each and every and I mean every booster pump has a detailed guide on how the pipework from the cylinder should be. This is because tiny air bubbles in the hot water cylinder must not reach the pump as it leads to issues with wear and pumping capacity. There is a device that can be fitted on the cylinder easily if this turns out to be the problem.

    NB I'm not a plumber - you'll have to pay for one of them.

    The item your talking about is a surrey flange.

    The problem definetly sounds like air .


Advertisement