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wood panelling

  • 04-01-2008 2:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 367 ✭✭


    Not sure if this is the correct place to put this but I am looking for some old style panelling for my bathroom. Has to be durable like mdf or something solid like that. I have used the cheap strips in the past and now want a more solid structure like the pic attached. Can anyone tell me what its called and where to get it or is it just called 'panelling'?

    Also, is it expensive?

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,695 ✭✭✭galwaydude18


    That to me looks like tongue and groove boards with a bead on the edges to create that desired look! I'm not sure what you call it though. Could be just tougue and groove.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    I have bought simple, and relatively cheap, tongue and groove pine in Homebase before (a few years ago), but I don't know whether they still stock it. It is thin (a few millimetres thick), and therefore not very strong, but once attached to a wall it would be robust enough. It looks very similar to the wood in the photo.

    One thing to be careful of with MDF is that it isn't exposed to any moisture, as it will swell (badly) when wet. In a bathroom this probably means that it will have to be very well sealed, using a dedicated sealant and/or paint, to protect it from steam as well as water. The same issue applies for any wood that goes into a bathroom really, but MDF is a real mess when it gets wet. There is a water resistan version of MDF available, as far as I know, which might be a better option (although probably more expensive too) if you opt for MDF.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭JoeB-


    That looks like beaded MR-MDF to me... stands for 'Moisture Resistant - MDF'. It comes in panels about 10mm thick, is green in colour, panel size about 4' x 10', beading runs in the long direction. Available from Woodworkers.ie I think for about 45 to 55 + VAT per panel.

    I have bought a few sheets in the past but now I make my own (for painted cabinet backs) using ordinary MDF, a router, a straightedge (sometimes two) and a panel moulding bit. It isn't possible to duplicate that design exactly with a router and a straight edge but it can be made quite similar.

    The reason I make my own is that it is expensive to buy and all the leftovers pieces are more or less wasted. But one reason it is expensive is because it is MR-MDF rather than ordinary MDF which is much cheaper.

    Cheers
    Joe


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 49 JBCFord


    Hi Teflon
    Panelling centre or as its called now in-house on the long mile road used to stock this product sealed red deal pine in packs of 10 also taught I seen something similar in B&Q liffey valley in sheet form 1mts x 1mts
    www.in-house.ie
    Regards jbcford


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 367 ✭✭teflon


    Hi guys thanks for the replies.

    Im going to try woodworkers.ie as I need it to be moisture resistant.
    Currently I have the cheaper packs of pine ones but as I am getting the bathroom insulated and replastered Im going to opt for the mdf as it will last longer and I assume that teh moisture resistant one will not show up any mould? Joe Ballantine perhaps you could answer that??


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 148 ✭✭carpainter


    Tongued, grooved and beaded is the "technical" name for that type of boarding. I've used the MR MDF in the past for a shopfront fascia; it's a fine material but cut or machined edges will still need to be well sealed (it is not a wonder material).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 367 ✭✭teflon


    carpainter wrote: »
    Tongued, grooved and beaded is the "technical" name for that type of boarding. I've used the MR MDF in the past for a shopfront fascia; it's a fine material but cut or machined edges will still need to be well sealed (it is not a wonder material).

    Hi Carpainter. Do you know if this can be stuck to the plasterboard with gunno or something similar and then sealed at the top and bottom? I just spoke to the builder about it and he said he hasnt ever used it before and was wondering as he wouldnt be able to screw fix it to the insulation as that will be dabbed to the existing wall.

    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 148 ✭✭carpainter


    Panel adhesive like gunoprene will fix it, but I'd still like to get a mechanical fixing in occasionally if at all possible, especially at panel edges.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 367 ✭✭teflon


    this stuff isnt prone to mould is it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 148 ✭✭carpainter


    All materials (even plastic, if it gets dirty) are prone to mould if the conditions are right (wrong) i.e. high humidity, poor ventilation and inadequate heating. If your bathroom is well ventilated and heated you'll have no problems with any timber products. The primary benefit of using MR MDF is that it won't swell up if exposed to moisture periodically, but is not designed to be immersed in moisture or be permanently damp, so be careful where this material will be in contact with splashbacks etc. When primed and painted MR MDF is a fine job and the shopfront fascia I've used it on shows no sign of weathering after 5 years of EXTERNAL exposure, WBP ply would have deteriorated before now in a similiar application. When using timber in any kind of a "wet" environment it's important to design and build so that water is not allowed to collect on surfaces and in joints; bear that in mind and you'll have no problems.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 689 ✭✭✭JoeB-


    I'd have to agree completely with Carpainter... his experience with the material is valuable. You just have to be very careful and try to seal every edge and join very well. Some people recommend using a watered down PVA (white or yellow) wood glue as a 'size' to seal the edges, similar to how Formica (chipboard) kitchen worktops are supposed to be sealed (around the sink cutout etc, up to 5 coats). There are commercial products to seal edges as well.

    With modern power showers there can be a huge amount of steam and condensation, I know that because in the rented house where I live there is some mould in the bathroom mainly bacause after a 30min very hot shower with the windows closed there are literally rivers running down every wall! Some people don't open the windows after so the 'rivers' remain for quite a while!

    Anyway mould can be removed.. I think a mild wash of detergant or bleach every few months (as needed) should do the trick but I wouldn't expect major problems in a house that is cared for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 65 ✭✭D-OLEARY


    mdf is no good for a bathroom even the moister proof stuff just get some ten mil tung and grove board or if u wanted u could get tgv floor boards and put the on the wall and u can get them in all types of timber


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