Chain broke - how to fix?

daymobrew

Yesterday my chain broke. I have a 9 speed Shimano Deore XT cassette. The chain is SRAM PC 951.
See the attached photos. Is it easily fixable? Will a SRAM Powerlink connector do? or do I need to buy a new chain? If I need a new chain, will I get benefits if I upgrade to a SRAM PC 991 chain?

Ciaran500

The mod of the cycling forum has to ask this o_O Theres no attached photos btw.

How long have you been running that chain? If you have had it a long time the cassette will have worn to the shape of the old chain so you will need a new cassette and chain.

A quick solution is to get a chain splitter and remove the broken link then just join the chain back together.

niceonetom

Ciaran500 wrote: »

The mod of the cycling forum has to ask this o_O Theres no attached photos btw.

How long have you been running that chain? If you have had it a long time the cassette will have worn to the shape of the old chain so you will need a new cassette and chain.

A quick solution is to get a chain splitter and remove the broken link then just join the chain back together.

i'd second all of that. if the chain ain't that old i'd repair it with the powerlink as you first suggested. i've only recently converted to using the powerlink system and i think it's deadly. i can take the chain off, give it a quick clean in the kitchen sink and put it back on the bike in a couple of minutes without using a chain tool. which is good.

Morgan

Remove the broken link and run the chain a little bit shorter than optimal until it wears out. Details here:

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=5&imageField2.x=24&imageField2.y=5

or here:

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/chainfix.htm

daymobrew

Ciaran500 wrote: »

The mod of the cycling forum has to ask this o_O Theres no attached photos btw.

I am happy to admit that I don't know too much about bike repair - I simply have almost 30 years cycling experience.

Ciaran500 wrote: »

How long have you been running that chain? If you have had it a long time the cassette will have worn to the shape of the old chain so you will need a new cassette and chain.

The chain, cassette and chainring were replaced around a year ago.

kona

ive ripped 2 chains exactly like that, one shimano one sram. i took the pin out of the broken bit, got a pliers, and bent the link back, then re-assembled.
dont pop it and shorten the chain, your chain will jump, and its really annoying!!!

rob1891

kona wrote: »

ive ripped 2 chains exactly like that, one shimano one sram. i took the pin out of the broken bit, got a pliers, and bent the link back, then re-assembled.
dont pop it and shorten the chain, your chain will jump, and its really annoying!!!

How would a chain jump because it is 1 link shorter? Chain might skip if it hasn't been rejoined properly as the tool compresses the link and makes it very stiff, but you can also loosen the link after initially rejoining it. Power link avoids all this crap and in this case will not shorten the chain. OP, get a power link, or get two and keep one in your saddle bag.

As far as straightening the link ... em, crazy. If you really need to keep the chain at the same length (lost too many links already), then insert a new link. Any new chain will be two long when you fit it first so you should have a few spare links lying around. Fit one, or two. They won't be worn like the rest of the chain, but 1/2 new links isn't going to cause much a problem.

Finally, if you're going a long way don't ever leave the house without a chain tool and a power link!

Hungrycol

Safest best is to buy a new chain and cassette. It's tried and tested that a broken SRAM chain fixed with a chain splitter is weakened. That's when they have a powerlink to connect the ends.

Raam

I managed to completely screw my chain up when putting it back together. Now that might just be my bad repair skills, but be careful when you are putting it back together. The shop gave me a powerlink for my new chain, but I think I'll leave well enough alone.

kona

rob1891 wrote: »

How would a chain jump because it is 1 link shorter? Chain might skip if it hasn't been rejoined properly as the tool compresses the link and makes it very stiff, but you can also loosen the link after initially rejoining it. Power link avoids all this crap and in this case will not shorten the chain. OP, get a power link, or get two and keep one in your saddle bag.

As far as straightening the link ... em, crazy. If you really need to keep the chain at the same length (lost too many links already), then insert a new link. Any new chain will be two long when you fit it first so you should have a few spare links lying around. Fit one, or two. They won't be worn like the rest of the chain, but 1/2 new links isn't going to cause much a problem.

Finally, if you're going a long way don't ever leave the house without a chain tool and a power link!

if your chain is the right length it will;), if its too long anyways it wont jump obviously.
thats what happed to me, on the top of howth, the thing clicked the whole way back down and home. stopped when i put the link back in.

and straightening it with a pliers, I do it all the time in the workshop, never had one return with a problem due to me fixing it that way, do it with my bike, my bike runs sweet.:D .without being big-headed...look man I know what im doing with bikes,Im working with them everyday, i know to move the link to loosen it up when im re-fitting a chain.

and if you actually fitted the chain right 1/2 links will make a difference, it will be too long, and lead to crappy shifting, and constantly falling off when tearing down a trail(unless youve a chain device.)

Mucco

daymobrew wrote: »

Yesterday my chain broke. I have a 9 speed Shimano Deore XT cassette.

If your chain breaks, it's a good sign that you've had it too long, and best to replace it. As mentioned, you may need a new cassette, as old chains stretch, and damage the cassette, but you may be OK.
Regarding which chain to get, I always get the cheapest with a powerlink. Chain reaction to packs of 3, which is good as you're more likely to replace chains on time if there's a spare about the house.

M

rob1891

kona wrote: »

if your chain is the right length it will;), if its too long anyways it wont jump obviously.
thats what happed to me, on the top of howth, the thing clicked the whole way back down and home. stopped when i put the link back in.

and straightening it with a pliers, I do it all the time in the workshop, never had one return with a problem due to me fixing it that way, do it with my bike, my bike runs sweet.:D .without being big-headed...look man I know what im doing with bikes,Im working with them everyday, i know to move the link to loosen it up when im re-fitting a chain.

and if you actually fitted the chain right 1/2 links will make a difference, it will be too long, and lead to crappy shifting, and constantly falling off when tearing down a trail(unless youve a chain device.)

For someone who calls himself a bike mechanic I am dumbfounded by the amount of rubbish you post on this board. No serious mechanic who respects his customers would skimp on the price of a link (less than 0.25e) or power link (2.00e) when fixing a chain. Do whatever with your own bike, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Even a link that is opened and rejoined is weakened. Twisting a link back into shape and reusing for a paying customer is ridiculous.

A chain that is too short will not skip, (for the benefit of others ...) there is a possibility of it binding if you change into a gear where there isn't enough chain to wrap around the front and rear cogs. In an emergency it can be easily avoided by watching your shifts until you get a chance to fix it. I've done it many times, it has never skipped. A shorter chain will be more taut overall and even less likely to skip that an chain that is the correct length.

I've no idea what you did to your bike that made it skip all the way home, but it wouldn't surprise me if you didn't rejoin it properly.

kona

rob1891 wrote: »

For someone who calls himself a bike mechanic I am dumbfounded by the amount of rubbish you post on this board. No serious mechanic who respects his customers would skimp on the price of a link (less than 0.25e) or power link (2.00e) when fixing a chain. Do whatever with your own bike, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Even a link that is opened and rejoined is weakened. Twisting a link back into shape and reusing for a paying customer is ridiculous.

A chain that is too short will not skip, (for the benefit of others ...) there is a possibility of it binding if you change into a gear where there isn't enough chain to wrap around the front and rear cogs. In an emergency it can be easily avoided by watching your shifts until you get a chance to fix it. I've done it many times, it has never skipped. A shorter chain will be more taut overall and even less likely to skip that an chain that is the correct length.

I've no idea what you did to your bike that made it skip all the way home, but it wouldn't surprise me if you didn't rejoin it properly.

listen mate, stop jumping to conclusions:D
I never said i charged for this type of repair.
and believe me its not me who dictates if i put a powerlink in, its the cheapskate customer who doesnt want to spend anything, that dictates this.
the fix is perfectly fine in this situation, daymos chain is not twisted.....if it was, id reccomend just changing the chain, I think you dont understand this way of fixing the chain.
daymos chain has ripped apart, id use the pliers to put it back into shape and then use the chain tool to re-assemble
yes a chain is weakend when you pop a link, but a power link is also a weaker link.
I fix bikes everyday, im willing to bet my left nut that you dont.
and beleive me that any chain i fix, is fixed properly, especially if its mine and Im flying down a trail.
and as for a customer, believe me i dont want to see a customer back shouting bull**** info that he got on message boards.

daymobrew

I bought a chain connector (like a powerlink) and a chain link tool to remove the pin from the broken link.

As mentioned in post #5, cassette, chain and chainring were replaced about a year ago. They were about 5 years old at that stage. I've cycled less in the last year than the previous 5 so I've put it down to a weak chain link, not cassette/chain/chainring wear.

david1two3

kona wrote: »

ive ripped 2 chains exactly like that, one shimano one sram. i took the pin out of the broken bit, got a pliers, and bent the link back, then re-assembled.
dont pop it and shorten the chain, your chain will jump, and its really annoying!!!

The chain jumps because the link on reinsertion makes everything to tight,if on the other hand you use the connector you are not interfering with any link and it will perform perfectly.It has nothing to do with removing a link i,it is all to do with reassembly.The whole procedure ,that of shortening can be done but the connector is fool proof as long as you have the right connector,different connectors for different chains,7 ,8 ,9 or 10 speed.

david1two3

rob1891 wrote: »

For someone who calls himself a bike mechanic I am dumbfounded by the amount of rubbish you post on this board. No serious mechanic who respects his customers would skimp on the price of a link (less than 0.25e) or power link (2.00e) when fixing a chain. Do whatever with your own bike, but a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Even a link that is opened and rejoined is weakened. Twisting a link back into shape and reusing for a paying customer is ridiculous.

A chain that is too short will not skip, (for the benefit of others ...) there is a possibility of it binding if you change into a gear where there isn't enough chain to wrap around the front and rear cogs. In an emergency it can be easily avoided by watching your shifts until you get a chance to fix it. I've done it many times, it has never skipped. A shorter chain will be more taut overall and even less likely to skip that an chain that is the correct length.

I've no idea what you did to your bike that made it skip all the way home, but it wouldn't surprise me if you didn't rejoin it properly.

and then when you reapplied the missing link you accidently inserted it properly, noT using a chain tool says only one thing,you couldnt be mechanic.

YOU CANT PUT A CHAIN BACK INTO SHAPE WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A SMELTER AN RE MANUFACTURING IT ALL OVER AGAIN

kona

what the hell are you talking about

my chains ripped exactly the same as above, they were NOT twisted in any ways.

(1) i took the pliers to bend the arm back into the same shape as the rest of chain.

(2) I took a CHAIN TOOL, and used this to put the pin back in.

In no post did i say i used a pliers to re, insert a pin.:rolleyes::rolleyes:

as for the rubbish of smelting the chain back down, wtf????
metal, or steel to be exact in the case of chains, has a high yield strength...I.E it goes through a large region of plastic deformation before it breaks.
SO, you can never get the chain back to the EXACT shape, but you can get it close enough. As it goes this is irrelevant as a chain wears and streches so there will be little to no point in smelting down a chain link :rolleyes:

when i split a link, I move it to loosen it. Maybe i used the wrong term, I should have used skipped, as opposed to jump.
Also You will not be able to select ALL gears with a chain too short.

Im not going to go on a mad one on this thread because
(1) Its a thread started by a mod.
(2) your not worth the effort.

I work on bikes, i fix them, my fixes work, when i fix a bike this way the customer does not return with the same problem.

Of course a brand new chain will be better , but if you can fix it for nothing and the bike still works as good why should you??

BTW who the hell are you i have never read a post from you on this forum???

if your so good why dont you post more on this forum, or are you a washing machine "engineer"??

david1two3

kona wrote: »

what the hell are you talking about

my chains ripped exactly the same as above, they were NOT twisted in any ways.

(1) i took the pliers to bend the arm back into the same shape as the rest of chain.

(2) I took a CHAIN TOOL, and used this to put the pin back in.

In no post did i say i used a pliers to re, insert a pin.:rolleyes::rolleyes:

as for the rubbish of smelting the chain back down, wtf????
metal, or steel to be exact in the case of chains, has a high yield strength...I.E it goes through a large region of plastic deformation before it breaks.
SO, you can never get the chain back to the EXACT shape, but you can get it close enough. As it goes this is irrelevant as a chain wears and streches so there will be little to no point in smelting down a chain link :rolleyes:

when i split a link, I move it to loosen it. Maybe i used the wrong term, I should have used skipped, as opposed to jump.
Also You will not be able to select ALL gears with a chain too short.

Im not going to go on a mad one on this thread because
(1) Its a thread started by a mod.
(2) your not worth the effort.

I work on bikes, i fix them, my fixes work, when i fix a bike this way the customer does not return with the same problem.

Of course a brand new chain will be better , but if you can fix it for nothing and the bike still works as good why should you??

BTW who the hell are you i have never read a post from you on this forum???

if your so good why dont you post more on this forum, or are you a washing machine "engineer"??

your hilarious

kona

david1two3 wrote: »

your hilarious

i know, but your the joker:rolleyes::D:D

david1two3

kona wrote: »

ive ripped 2 chains exactly like that, one shimano one sram. i took the pin out of the broken bit, got a pliers, and bent the link back, then re-assembled.
dont pop it and shorten the chain, your chain will jump, and its really annoying!!!

as myself and 106 year old rob have menchinned in chorus you know not of what you speak, as is made obvious by above statement. So sending out post enquiring "who are you anyway"etc. etc .are only going to make it worse, I provisionally diagnose ADHD but as a wishing machine gneer I could be spinning out of cuntrol .

kona

david1two3 wrote: »

as myself and 106 year old rob have menchinned in chorus you know not of what you speak, as is made obvious by above statement. So sending out post enquiring "who are you anyway"etc. etc .are only going to make it worse, I provisionally diagnose ADHD but as a wishing machine gneer I could be spinning out of cuntrol .

what?? yes because this happend to me it means i know nothing.......
okay, you and rob are totally right..........i dont know anything about bikes...........no really your totally right.
My employers, and customers are all idiots, i have the wool pulled right over their eyes, and its just a fluke that all the bikes i've fixed over the course of 3 years have not returned because of my shoddy workmanship.
So when im in work after christmas, working on bikes, ill be safe in the knowlede that, the lads who dont work on bikes know my job better than I do and if im stuck ill just call a washing machine "engineer"...............
also,
the word is mentioned by the way, as for the last sentence, i think you may need to repeat senior infants.

I really dont care, you can say what you want, my bike works,as do my customers bikes work, i've proof to back it up. i havn't smashed my head into a tree due to mechanical failure arising from me not fixing somthing right.

daymobrew

david1two3 wrote: »

your hilarious

kona wrote: »

i know, but your the joker:rolleyes::D:D

And neither of you know your "your" from your "you're"

I, the not-so-mechanical mod, am closing this thread as I got the info I wanted (oooh the power) and the thread has gone a little mad.