YZR 500 build

The Doktor

Since there hasnt been many static threads lately, I thought Id post a few pics of the current model im working on.
Its Tamiyas Yammaha YZR 500. Theres a few reasons I wanted to build this model, first it was Tamiyas first ever 1/12 motorbike, second it was my first motorbike model back when i was 10... awwwwwwwwwww. Also Yamaha have their current YZR-M1 in the same livery for their 50th anniversary in 2005.
http://www.rossifiles.com/photos#album=50-years-yamaha&page=1&photo=50years13
(the yzr500 is in the middle with kenny roberts on it)

So I have decided to do the YZR 500 first, and since its a bit.. agricultural... im not gonna go over the top with serious detail. Not that you really need to on this bike.
I started last night so you can see the amount of work i got done in one evening.
This first pic is all of the kit, just out of the box. Compared to the modern tamiya bike kits, there isnt a lot of bits!
Kit.jpg

So I put the engine together but not sticking the top to the bottom, as they are different colours. The frame and swing arm was assembled. All parts were cleaned of flash, and mould lines. Then I primed them with white primer from Halfords.
engine parts primed.jpg
All parts were rubbed with 3600 sand paper and cleaned with a tack cloth. Then all most of the parts were sprayed with gloss black. First the frames final colour is gloss black, and second the cylinders and the swing arm is to be shiny aluminuim.
engine parts black.jpg
I did the swing arm and the cylinders with Alclad 2 Chrome. the bottom part of the engine was a mix of Alclad 2 White Alu and Humbrol black.
engine parts chrome.jpg
I sprayed all the chrome coloured parts with Johnson Kleer, cos the chrome paint is easy to rub off, and the kleer protects it.
The parts are aluminium, but from the pics I have they are pretty shiney, and the "chrome" paint can be applied differently depending on how shiny ye want it.

Next I stuck all the fairing parts together, filled the cracks with car body filler, and sanded them. I like car body filler for this, cos its nice and soft, easy to sand, and cheaper than a lot of model specific fillers. It also smells great!
Then I primed all the fairing parts....and made tea..
Fairing primed.jpg

coolwings

The Doktor wrote: »

Since there hasnt been many static threads lately, I thought Id post a few pics of the current model im working on.
Its Tamiyas Yammaha YZR 500. ....

Goodie !

Lurking and awaiting lots of interesting reports (& pics) to come.

BFassassin

Looks great. Your alcad chrome paint came out a lot better than when I used it before.

The Doktor

BFassassin wrote: »

Looks great. Your alcad chrome paint came out a lot better than when I used it before.

To get alclad lookin good.

1. Clean up parts of all flash and crap.
2. Give parts quick rub of licht sandpaper (1200 grade)
3. Prime with filler primer e.g halfords white primer
4. Sand filler primer with wet 1200 paper (no need to get in all the cracks on crevises on parts like engine parts etc)
5. Get a nice glossy black sprayed on to parts, I use black spray can type stuff decanted into airbrush, but humbrol enamel is fine, once its airbrushed.

6. clean dry black paint with a tack cloth. Takes off all dust and crap
7. Spray on alclad. When doing this, you only want a tiny amount of paint comming from the airbrush. Do not allow the airbrush to stop moving.
Put the paint on very lightly, like you are using a big fluffy brush and are dusting the part!!
then do a second coat of alclad in the same way..

8. Coat the finished part in a clear covering that wont disolve the paint, eg, Johnsons Kleer floor polish, or water based clear.

anyway.. im not allowed out tonight cos i have to entertain the little bollixes callin to the door....

Ciaran_Dub

Looking good, funnily enough started a Tamiya 1/12 bike myself recently. Its the Ducati 916. Its my first time building a bike I normally just build cars. I got a real modelling block lately and was starting to lose interest so was in the model shop and decided to pick up the Ducati. Just thinking Doktor I meant to post pics on one of your other threads about 'interesting projects' of the Back To The Future DeLorean I was building, sorry just never got around to it.

Just a quick question where do u get the Alclad paints from? I have being wanting to try them jsut wondering where is the best place to get them from.

BFassassin

This is where I got mine and it was the Doktor that pointed me in their direction
http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/category.asp?catcode=83&tamiya=273
I will have to get myself some more supplies before I start my next project. I need some sand paper and some paints for primer etc. I probably will have to get a better (cheap) airbrush as well.

Ciaran_Dub

Cheers BF, what is the shipping like on a couple bottles of alclad?

Oh if you are looking for an airbrush this is the one I got http://www.bearair.com/prodinfo.asp?number=100182
from the same guys, shipping very reasonable but a great selection or airbrushes. I like the one I got but all depends on what you want it for! In my case I dont do detail painting like for example camoflage. Only thing was I had to order a second one (dont ask!) and ended up getting stung for import duty, I didnt the first time.

BFassassin

As far as i can remember it was ok. I bought a few other things at the same time though so that increased it a bit.
Thanks for the link on the airbrush. Ill check it out.

The Doktor

Ciaran_Dub wrote: »

Looking good, funnily enough started a Tamiya 1/12 bike myself recently. Its the Ducati 916. Its my first time building a bike I normally just build cars. I got a real modelling block lately and was starting to lose interest so was in the model shop and decided to pick up the Ducati. Just thinking Doktor I meant to post pics on one of your other threads about 'interesting projects' of the Back To The Future DeLorean I was building, sorry just never got around to it.

Just a quick question where do u get the Alclad paints from? I have being wanting to try them jsut wondering where is the best place to get them from.

I got a 916 on the shelf in me workshop. I did one a few years ago as my first model when i got "seriously" back into models again.
I find the best thing for me to stop the "modellers block" is to change subjects regularly. I build a tank, a bike, a car, a plane, do a diorama.. whatever.
Some of the Alclad paints are excellent! They do the paints that change colour, and the metal colours are excellent. Though I heard of a chrome paint thats supposed to be better.. cant remember the name though!
Models in motion usually get stuff delivered in within 7 days if they have what you order in stock, and paints they seem to have in stock. Though i think they say you can only order paints if you get a kit so they can pack the paints in it??? not sure... Well.. its what i tell the missus, so i can get more kits!

BFassassin

I ordered some paints without a kit so you will be alright there. Dont order any tamiya paint though without checking its in stock. I ordered some about 2 months ago and im still waiting on it

Ciaran_Dub

The Doktor wrote: »

I got a 916 on the shelf in me workshop. I did one a few years ago as my first model when i got "seriously" back into models again.
I find the best thing for me to stop the "modellers block" is to change subjects regularly. I build a tank, a bike, a car, a plane, do a diorama.. whatever.
Some of the Alclad paints are excellent! They do the paints that change colour, and the metal colours are excellent. Though I heard of a chrome paint thats supposed to be better.. cant remember the name though!
Models in motion usually get stuff delivered in within 7 days if they have what you order in stock, and paints they seem to have in stock. Though i think they say you can only order paints if you get a kit so they can pack the paints in it??? not sure... Well.. its what i tell the missus, so i can get more kits!

I know what you mean Doktor, I have to tell 'she who must be obeyed' when I see a rare model that some are hard to get so I really should get it now. Agree with you on the whole changing subject hence the reason I went for the bike. I dont really have much of an interest in the whole tank/aircraft/military type modelling. Although have thought about trying one. I am hoping to do a small diorama for the DeLorean, I think it would look pretty silly sitting on the shelf all clean looking, so hoping to do a desert type base and some weathering which are all new to me.

BFassassin I sometimes order my paint from www.HLJ.com, normally get my kits from there too, even though its coming from Japan I find the shipping very reasonable especially with bigger orders such as 2 kits plus supplies like sandpaper couple of cans of paint and the such like. There is another company in Japan called http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/ that I have used and they are very good too, plus they do the small acrylic jars. Also another company I have heard is good is media although I havent ordered from them.

The Doktor

On Sunday night i decided to do all the fairings yellow. So I gave a final coat of primer, cos of one or two little bits i wasnt happy with, gave it a rub of some micromesh with water, dried off all the bits with kitchen paper, and tacked all the parts to remove all traces of dust.
Just as I was doing the last coat of yellow, a lovely big snot came out of the airbrush. Ahhh bollocks... keep goin.. another snot! So in this situation the best thing to do is stop.
So the following evening I gave the snots a rub with wet micromesh, and painted the parts again. That was after I stripped the airbrush and cleand it properly!
fairing painted.jpg

It could be shinyer, but thats not what im trying to do. I want a nice smooth finish. Shiny enough to take the decals nicely, as the final finish will be a clear coat. SO im totally happy with the finish above.

So at this point, I assembled the engine, as most of the parts are painted at this stage. Some of the little parts on the engine take a while to do as there are a few colours, eg spark plugs, have silver, white and red. Also most of the detail has been painted on the engine.
The carbs were painted using Alclad "pale burnt metal" with black humbrol mixed in. The instructions say to use a mix of gun metal and gold for the air intake horn part, and silver for the body, but I have one good picture of the carbs, and the look to be a dirty goldy colour. It seems the bikes back in 78 wernt kept as clean as they are now!
engine 1.jpg
engine 2.jpg
The last thing I will do with the engine, is use a wash of oil paint, to pick out the detail, and simulate general dirt/oil/oxidation.

At this point i realised there are heaps of parts that should be silver, and things like the handlebars need to be done. So i got all the remaining bits and cleaned them up, and primed them. I will spray them with alcad aluminium tonight.
little bits.jpg

When doing this kit you can really see how far tamiya have come with their kits. There are some bad enough mold lines, and a bit of flash on the parts. No big deal. But still when the kit was out first in 1980 or somthing, it was a really excellent kit for its time!

vectra

I gotta admit bud.
You have waaay more patience than me.
Awesome job bud.:cool:

BFassassin

Looking good Dok. Some nice detail on the engine.

The Doktor

I just done a pile of little bits an pieces tonight. Though I finished the engine, one or two bits were put on, and I gave it an oil wash to bring out the detail.
I dunno if any of the guys here uses this technique, but its easy to do and improves the look of any model.
You mix artists oils with white spirit, very thinly. Then using a soft brush,touch it off recesses and panel lines etc. On the engine it brings out detail like nuts and bolts, and lines that would be hard to see. Also if you make the wash a little thicker (still very thin!!), it can simulate oil and grime.
On the picture below, you can see the wash, just after it has been applied. When it dries it will be more subtle.
If you were to do it on large panes, just use a wide brush to apply the wash, leave it for an hour, then wipe with kitchen paper, and it will leave the oil paint in the recess lines making them a little more defined. Same for tanks etc.
engine washed.jpg

In the picture below of the chain, there is a before and after of the oil wash.
In this part, the amount of paint in the wash is a little more than for the engine, as it can simulate the oil on the chain.
Chain compare.jpg

tomorrow is decal night.... now is bickie time...

Ciaran_Dub

Looking very good Dok, might try the wash thing myself on the Ducati. I am hoping to drop into Marks Models over the weekend to see if I can pick up the metallic grey cover so I can redo the green engine parts. If I do hopeto get some more done on the Ducati over the weekend and some updates next week

The Doktor

Ciaran_Dub wrote: »

Looking very good Dok, might try the wash thing myself on the Ducati. I am hoping to drop into Marks Models over the weekend to see if I can pick up the metallic grey cover so I can redo the green engine parts. If I do hopeto get some more done on the Ducati over the weekend and some updates next week

you need met grey? just mix it yourself.

Ciaran_Dub

I was thinking that but not sure how dark or light to make it! At this stage it will be Saturday before I get around to do anything more with the model

BFassassin

Thats a nice tip for the oil ect. I might try that out

The Doktor

So last night since the kitchen was painted I went out and did a bit, just to get goin on the project again...
First thing I did was paint the lower half of the fairing white. I just masked off the area I wanted to keep yellow, gave the area i wanted to paint a little rub with wet sand paper (light). Then primed it, so that the yellow wouldnt bleed through the gloss white.
Fairing primed2.jpg
I left this to dry for an hour, and then smoothed down the primer and painted the white.
I left the paint to dry for about 30 mins before taking the masking tape off. Any less than this, and the paint can peel off with the tape, and more and the line isnt as good.
Fairing white.jpg

Looking at the instructions, if I dont have the exhausts done it will hold up the construction. So I decided to start into these. I rubbed them down to remove the mold lines which were pretty bad. Also 3 of the exhusts were hollow, so I test fitted these, and found that there is no good reason for this except on one of the exhusts.
Exhausts1.jpg
So I filled em... What I filled em with, Im not tellin ye, not until im sure that it works well...
Exhaust2.jpg

I like the exhaust to look well, And on the test fit, I think you will be able to see the "hollow" bits, so hopefully this will be worth doing.

Ciaran_Dub

The Doktor wrote: »

So last night since the kitchen was painted I went out and did a bit, just to get goin on the project again...
First thing I did was paint the lower half of the fairing white. I just masked off the area I wanted to keep yellow, gave the area i wanted to paint a little rub with wet sand paper (light). Then primed it, so that the yellow wouldnt bleed through the gloss white.
Fairing primed2.jpg
I left this to dry for an hour, and then smoothed down the primer and painted the white.
I left the paint to dry for about 30 mins before taking the masking tape off. Any less than this, and the paint can peel off with the tape, and more and the line isnt as good.
Fairing white.jpg

Looking at the instructions, if I dont have the exhausts done it will hold up the construction. So I decided to start into these. I rubbed them down to remove the mold lines which were pretty bad. Also 3 of the exhusts were hollow, so I test fitted these, and found that there is no good reason for this except on one of the exhusts.
Exhausts1.jpg
So I filled em... What I filled em with, Im not tellin ye, not until im sure that it works well...
Exhaust2.jpg

I like the exhaust to look well, And on the test fit, I think you will be able to see the "hollow" bits, so hopefully this will be worth doing.

Can I ask why did you not start with the white and then cover the white part and respray with yellow. One you wouldnt need to use the primer over the yellow and two it would give less of a step between the paints! Unless of course you have some trick to get rid of it!

The Doktor

Ciaran_Dub wrote: »

Can I ask why did you not start with the white and then cover the white part and respray with yellow. One you wouldnt need to use the primer over the yellow and two it would give less of a step between the paints! Unless of course you have some trick to get rid of it!

The trick to get rid of it is rub with a wet micromesh...
other thing is, there is a decal that will make up the boarder.
The reason i did it that way........
..... eh.... i didnt notice i had to do the white until after the yellow was on...:D:D:D

The Doktor

So the last bit I pictured above is the filled exhausts. Well the filler that i used as an experiment was a disaster!
After I sanded it I found it difficult to get smooth. I also found that it was a bit spongy. So I dug it all out, and went back to me standard car body filler (isopon).
NEVER USE "NO MORE CRACKS" as a filler on a plastic model... .... but ye gotta experiment, dont ye?
So when the filler was hard, I sanded it, then primed it. Any little bad spots were then sanded, and they were primed again.
The next bit was there are no welds on the kit parts, which are on the real thing. So I used thin strips of masking tape to replicate the welds. Which I then brushed on Kleer floor polish to bond them, and stop them taking on a soft appearance. Looks good so far.
Exhaust primed.jpg
Tonight I will paint em gloss black, and then chrome, and then do a bit of discolouring...

The Doktor

Right so, I finished the exhausts tonight.
First I did one light coat of primer over the masking tape welds.
Primed.jpg

I gave this a very live rub with 12000 micromesh with a little water. I want it as smooth as possible. I then sprayed them with Halfords gloss black from the airbrush

black.jpg

When this was dry, I painted them with Alclad Chrome. Only a very thin coat is required. If you put this on like other paint it will end up looking like silver paint. A really light coat, and this is what u get.
Chrome.jpg

When this was dry (5 mins), i gave all the parts a light coat of Kleer floor polish to protect the chrome finish because the thinner in the next acrylic paint applied would ruin the shiny finish.
Then, each weld was sprayed with clear blue tamiya acrylic.
blue.jpg

I then gave a light coat of clear orange in between the welds. This is the same as the blue above, you dont just lash on the paint, you build it up slowly. Spray a bit, let it dry, spray a bit more.
orange.jpg

Contd in next post.......

The Doktor

Contd from above.....

Then tamiya clear black was sprayed over most of the orange. The clear black is a little light on its own, so there was a mix of about 20% clear black, 10% gloss black and 70% thinner.
Clear Black.jpg

Then I mixed Matt black 20% and 80% thinner. This was sprayed near some of the welds, and up the top of the pipes where they go onto the cylinders.
Matt Black.jpg

Then I gave each weld a wash of black oil paint on a brush.
Complete.jpg

All of the colours above were based on pictures. In fact I thought the pipes looked a lot different from modern 2 stroke pipes. They really look like they were made by some lad in a shed in his back garden to be honest, but thats 2 strokes for ya.
Dont take the above as the way a 4 stroke looks.. cos they dont!
Im happy with how they turned out, and they look pretty much like the pic i have....

Ciaran_Dub

I must admit I was sceptical about the weld lines but they look brilliant with the heat staining. If I was to be critical (yes its my turn!) I would have said the heat staining was over done ever so slightly! I thought it looked better one or two pics from finished. Trying to find a reference pic but cant seem too. I keep saying it but I gotta get me some of that Alclad!

BFassassin

Looks great Doktor. You went through a lot of steps to get the exhausts the way you wanted. Have you ever tried something like this though. I was thinking it would be handy for heat treatment.
http://www.hiroboy.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48_62&products_id=1100

The Doktor

I knew it! I shouldnt have opened me mouth about your exhausts!:D
Im tryin to find some pics of the actual exhaust, but not much joy. Im working from pic i have in a book.
But one thing to remember, is this is a 2 stroke, and the exhausts are made differently than on a fourstroke (for the expansion chambers). They also discolour differently.
I have this pic which is a 2 stroke that hasnt even been run. So the exhausts are brand new.
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/855319/

So that gives you an idea of what the welds can look like just after they are done.
Heres a street bike 250 2 stroke...
http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/969738/

You can see the back end of the exhaust

One other thing... is my photography is crap....
Im holding one of the exhausts in my hand, and comparing it to the picture i have posted, and it looks a whole lot more matt than the photo!

Just found this too.. its not the exact same ehausts, but give another idea of what they can look like.
1978_ow35k_n.jpeg

Ciaran_Dub

Wasnt really trying to criticise just thought they looked how do I put it 'Over Cooked' but true lighting in pics can be very decieving (sp?). I understand what you mean about difference between 2 and four stroke. Did my own heat pattern today and to be honest not sure if I am happy with it. I felt the paint was spitting from the airbrush a lot, so dont know if its the airbrush needs a good cleaning, too low an air pressure, i didnt have the right mixture of paint/thinner or its just me! What I did was getreally close with the airbrush to the part and move reallyquickly back and forth with very very little paint getting onto the part! Still dont look great I will try and get pics up tomorrow. BF those paints look great might be worth a try. I know the guy who owns that company he is a bit of a lunatic but great modeller. Lunatic in the sense he went a bough a Nissan Skyline cause he couldnt find any good reference pics for his 1/12th skyline he was building!!!

BFassassin

Thats what I call crazy. At least he ended up with a decent car and model afterwards.
I want to order a few parts from there soon. They have a good selection of stuff on that site.

Ciaran_Dub

BFassassin wrote: »

Thats what I call crazy. At least he ended up with a decent car and model afterwards.
I want to order a few parts from there soon. They have a good selection of stuff on that site.

Aww man you should have seen it, the model was an exact copy of the 1:1 car he bought. He really isa top modeller, if you look for his name hiroboy on automotiveforums.com you will see some of his stuff, absolutely breath taking.

The Doktor

Ciaran, The lower the pressure the more you can thin the paint. But if it was spitting, ye need more thinner. I usually put between 50% and 70% thinner in my mix. Not exact measures, more like.. "that looks ok".
BF .. yeah them paints look interesting. Im always open to tryin new things, and am putting an order in to hiroboy for a few bits and pieces in cluding a new stash of alcald! so I might order em and try em out.
Though i did get tamiya weathering sticks a while ago and im not too impressed.. but still worth a try..

The Doktor

Slowly but surely im gettin this done. I had a real pain in me arse with the decals, cos they are crap! They seem to be the original decals used, and are very thick. But using Microsol I managed to do a fairly decent job in the end, though I had to touch up some of the decals with paint. In the pic below I still havent finished the fairings, I still need to laquer them and paint the inside Matt Black.
Fairing decals.jpg

So when I finished the decals, I done a bit of assembly, putting the engine in the frame, the swing arm on etc. Oh and wheels.. they are painted gold, and the tyres are sanded down to look a little worn.
Part complete bike1.jpg

At this point I had to stick on the exhausts, just to get an idea what they will look like, and im happy...
Part complete bike 2.jpg
Part complete bike 3.jpg

Im gonna finish this before the new year! I promise!

Ciaran_Dub

Looking good Dok. I like the decal job, very smooth and clean.

Unfortunately mine wont be done before New Year, read my thread to find out why!

The Doktor

Well, im nearly there.
Over christmas I finished the fairings/tank etc.
I gave the outside a few coats of clear laquer and painted the inside matt black with a brush.
Completed fairings.jpg

Next I added a few cables that wernt on the original model. There was no temp guage cable, tacho cable or throttle cables.
These are handy to add. I just drill a small hole where I want the cable to terminate, super glue a small bit of copper wire into the hole, super glue cable onto copper wire. The difficult part is finding where the cable should go!
Cables.jpg

Im getting to the point now where i will need the stand. I decided I wanted to make it nice and used looking. So I painted it silver first, the dabbed some masking fluid on with a scotch pad. Let that dry and sprayed it gloss black. When the paint is dry rub the bars with the back of a blade and the masking fluid comes off and you then have a nice scratched look.
Stand.jpg

The next think i did was finish the forks off. These were chrome in the box. But I thought they looked too shiny, and also the chrome covered the detail a bit, so i stripped the chrome off and used alclad chrome to repaint them.
I also painted the mudguard yellow, then noticed it should be black!
So I put em together, and temporarly mounted them on the bike, as they shouldnt be put on until the fairings are on. But i wanted to see what it looked like...
forks.jpg

I will probably finish this tonight, there are some little bits to paint, like valves, handgrips etc.. and then the fairings to add on.

Plug

Jesus man thats some talent, keep up the good work!

Ciaran_Dub

Lookinggood Dok, love the look of the 'used' bike stand. Actually just ordered some masking liquid so looking forward to trying it out. Also ordered the Alclad so really want to see what results I get with that. Ordered the paint for the Ducati but that is comingfrom Japan so could be waiting a few weeks to complete it. Have gone back to the DeLorean to try and finish it.

Dok could you show me how you did the cables with some pics? Jsut if you get a chance. Cant quite picture how you did it.

The Doktor

Ciaran_Dub wrote: »

Dok could you show me how you did the cables with some pics? Jsut if you get a chance. Cant quite picture how you did it.

No problem.

First take the part you want to add a cable onto. In this example I am goin to put it on the gold coloured part.
1.jpg
Next drill a hole where you want to cable to go. I used about a 1mm bit. And take a bit of copper wire and super glue it into the hole. The only important thing about the guage of the wire is that the Vinyl tube will fit over it.
2.jpg

Then put a small dab of super glue on the copper, and slide the vinyl tube onto it.
3.jpg

If you want a "connector" on the cable, take about 1cm of masking tape, cut a thin strip, and wrap it around the tube. Then paint it siver, or what ever colour ya want it to be.
4.jpg

The Doktor

So, last night I went over the model and got a few more bits done. I added a steering damper, which is on the real thing, but not on the model.
I just used an old damper that was on some old model and made it a bit shorter and it was perfect. I thought it was important enough, as you can see it quite clearly on the finished model, its not hidden away.
Next I took some clear vinyl tube and added a breather pipe for the fuel tank.
Then the fairings, tank etc went on. They went on pretty easily. I remember when i made it as a kid, having serious difficulty with that bit!
Then after going over the model again and checking what i missed, I put the screen on. After taking these final pics I did add a light was of black to some of the recessed areas, like on the wheels for example. But a fresh was doesnt look great in pics... but ya get the idea.
complete 1.jpg
complete 2.jpg

The end

Plug

very nice!

Ciaran_Dub

The Doktor wrote: »

So, last night I went over the model and got a few more bits done. I added a steering damper, which is on the real thing, but not on the model.
I just used an old damper that was on some old model and made it a bit shorter and it was perfect. I thought it was important enough, as you can see it quite clearly on the finished model, its not hidden away.
Next I took some clear vinyl tube and added a breather pipe for the fuel tank.
Then the fairings, tank etc went on. They went on pretty easily. I remember when i made it as a kid, having serious difficulty with that bit!
Then after going over the model again and checking what i missed, I put the screen on. After taking these final pics I did add a light was of black to some of the recessed areas, like on the wheels for example. But a fresh was doesnt look great in pics... but ya get the idea.
complete 1.jpg
complete 2.jpg
The end

Cheers for the other pics Dok makes more sense now. I thought you were using a full piece of copper wiring frompoint A to point B then putting the vinyl over it. Is that vinyl a scale aftermarket product or jsut something you saw lying around and thought "Oh thats perfect for the parts box!"

As for the finished model, its come out great. You know my feelings on the clear finish but you have yours just right so it doesnt look plasticky (is it even a word?). What clear do you use because I am always very wary of using it that it will eat a decal job and I know TS-13 is well known for doing that!

So whats on the desk next Dok?

The Doktor

Ciaran, The vinyl is stuff that comes with various kits, tamiya or what ever. I always keep the leftover stuff. Though you can buy it in lenghts in various guages and colours. I want to get some more meself cos im running out, and its rare you get any clear tube in any model, which is useful for breather pipes on petrol tanks.
Regarding using the copper wire running through the vinyl, I have found that makes the vinyl way too rigid, and difficult to work with, and theres really no need. Though using the copper wire on its own works well, specially when you want thin wires on your model.

The Clear coat is Halfords spray cans! I find it great, I decant enough for the job and spray it with the airbrush. Its perfectly thinned straight from the can. It doesnt seem to cause any reaction with decals. Usually what i do to lessen the chance is to spray on one very light coat. leave it dry for 20 mins and then start to build up heavier coats. Works well so far!

Ciaran_Dub

The Doktor wrote: »

Ciaran, The vinyl is stuff that comes with various kits, tamiya or what ever. I always keep the leftover stuff. Though you can buy it in lenghts in various guages and colours. I want to get some more meself cos im running out, and its rare you get any clear tube in any model, which is useful for breather pipes on petrol tanks.
Regarding using the copper wire running through the vinyl, I have found that makes the vinyl way too rigid, and difficult to work with, and theres really no need. Though using the copper wire on its own works well, specially when you want thin wires on your model.

The Clear coat is Halfords spray cans! I find it great, I decant enough for the job and spray it with the airbrush. Its perfectly thinned straight from the can. It doesnt seem to cause any reaction with decals. Usually what i do to lessen the chance is to spray on one very light coat. leave it dry for 20 mins and then start to build up heavier coats. Works well so far!

Thats what I thought about using the whole length of copper in the vinyl tubing.

I might give the halfords stuff a try for my next project. The paint for which is coming with the TS-8 from Japan. So will see how I get on.