Quinn Lite thoughts

metalscrubber

Good evening all, and happy birthday Smashey,

A long long term lurker here finally coming out of the woodwork because the news this week is positive at last - planning permission granted.

I have being considering the following and would appricate all your views.

STD solid 100mm block for outer leaf with sand/cement plaster.
50mm airgap
75mm QuinnTherm
215 mm B3 QuinnLite inner leaf with internal skim of plaster.

Total width 440mm or a little over 17"
According to Quinn's own data backed by IAB cert that gives me a Uvalue of 0.16

House is two story, 3000 sq ft. I plan, and will be asking about similar levels of insulation for the floor and roof.

Cheers,

Metal

Mellor

Whats the conductivity of the quinntherm insulation?
I'd probably adjust the ratio in the cavity to improve it a little, minimun cavity and max insulation, Im guessing your keeping it to 440 max due to block sizes.
How about 90 block, 40 cavity, 95 insulation (or 35 and 100), 215 block on flat. I don't have a calculator handy, but i'd hazard a guess that it improves it to .14 or .15

metalscrubber

Hi Mellor,

Quinn Therm QW thermal resistance R:
25mm 1.05
30mm 1.30
35mm 1.52
40mm 1.70
50mm 2.15
60mm 2.60
75mm 3.25
80mm 3.45
90mm 3.90
100mm 4.30

So silly beginner question, to calculate the U value of a particular construction you sum the products of the different element thicknesses by their thermal resistance and divide by one ?

I picked 440mm simply because that was the sum of the bits I used. I have read / heard that increasing the thickness of the walls heavily impacts on costs as everything becomes non standard.

Metal

metalscrubber

On a roll here so somebody please correct me if Im wrong.
Thank god for night shift and time to do some math.

As per Mellors suggestion I did some comparisons and what I've just
realised is that nothing comes near the thermal resistance of the insulation
(obvious really)

So taking the same wall thickness of 440mm, but using 150mm QuinnLiteB5 and 155mm of QuinnTherm I get the U down to 0.125

Other than insulation cost what is the downside ??

metalscrubber

metalscrubber wrote: »

On a roll here so somebody please correct me if Im wrong.
Thank god for night shift and time to do some math.

As per Mellors suggestion I did some comparisons and what I've just
realised is that nothing comes near the thermal resistance of the insulation
(obvious really)

So taking the same wall thickness of 440mm, but using 150mm QuinnLiteB5 and 155mm of QuinnTherm I get the U down to 0.125

Other than insulation cost what is the downside ??

I believe that there can be some issues in having such a wide cavity, you may need special ties.

There may be problems in getting cavity lintels, unless you opt for seperate ones for each leaf.

Can't think of anything major.

Good luck

Mellor

metalscrubber wrote: »

So silly beginner question, to calculate the U value of a particular construction you sum the products of the different element thicknesses by their thermal resistance and divide by one ?
You divide the thickness by the conductivity (that gives the value you posted above), sum up and get the inverse (divide 1 by the total). There are also other bits that need to be included such as surface resistance and wall tie correction

I picked 440mm simply because that was the sum of the bits I used. I have read / heard that increasing the thickness of the walls heavily impacts on costs as everything becomes non standard.
Yeah its definatly best to keep it standard. As it happens 440 is the next standard thickness after 325. So try to keep to this

Try to keep it standard everywhere. THe downside to your next build up is as dolanbaker said the wide cavity requiring special ties. But overall it is still a reduced u-value.

Deleted User wrote:

I believe that there can be some issues in having such a wide cavity, you may need special ties.

There may be problems in getting cavity lintels, unless you opt for seperate ones for each leaf.

There should be no trouble getting lintels, Im guessing you're thinking about pressed steel lintles, they come in a range of widths to cover non domestic sizes and applications. Catnic should have them online. If you were to use concrete lintels you will of course be using one for each leaf.

Johnniep

Quinn lite does have a problem in that it tends to draw the water from the mortar. Not sure if you can adjust the mix to suit. Just something to be cautious of!

Viking House

metalscrubber wrote: »

I have being considering the following and would appricate all your views.
STD solid 100mm block for outer leaf with sand/cement plaster.
50mm airgap
75mm QuinnTherm
215 mm B3 QuinnLite inner leaf with internal skim of plaster.
Total width 440mm or a little over 17"
According to Quinn's own data backed by IAB cert that gives me a U-value of 0.16

Seeing as you are looking for everyones views, here are mine.

You should add 0.11 to the 0.16 wall U-value to allow for the "Cold Bridge" between the wall and the floor unless you are using QuinnTherm below the the DPC which is not recommended. Then you should add a further 0.11 for the Cold Bridge around the windows and doors.
The Wall-Floor cold bridge can be eliminated by an insulated raft foundation or by insulating on both sides of the rising walls and underneath the foundations of rising walls.
The Cold Bridge around the windows and doors through the steel lintel can be eliminated by leaving out the external wall and plastering directly onto external insulation.

There is the "Thermal Looping" issue when you put rigid insulation in the cavity against the internal wall.
If there is a 1mm or more gap between the insulation and the wall you get an air movement where the warm air rises and cold air enters at the bottom causing cooling. Thermal Looping reduced the insulation effect of Partial fill Cavity wall insulation by an average of 35% based on British research. It is impossible to put the insulation tight against the inside blocks as most Irish blocks are made with a + - 1.5mm tolerance so there can be a difference of 3mm between any two blocks (I don't know about the tolerances or QuinnLite but the mortar between the blocks usually kicks out the insulation).
The best option I think would be to use Rockwool in the cavity or use only Quinnlite blocks and stick insulation onto the outside of them and plaster directly onto the insulation.
"If you are worried about the hollow feeling of light plaster on External Insulation you can put up to 16mm thick plaster on External Insulation without problems and you will never realise it is not an external block wall"

Then there is the Cold Bridges at the Mortar joints between the QuinnLite blocks which could be 8-10% of the wall (I'm guessing). The answer to this would be to use Thin joint mortar but you would need blocks with accurate demensions.

There is also the issue of the unstable U-value of Polyeurethene board insulation (Quinntherm, Kingspan and others). It leaves the production process with a Lambda value of 0.015 and 28 days later when it goes on the market the Lambda value has fallen to 0.025. What happens after 6 months? They rely on trapped Pentane for the high U-value which migrates and escapes at the edges of the sheet.
You can see this if you break a piece of Kingspan/Quinntherm in half and light a cigarette lighter beside it. In new boards the flame flares up but with old boards "nothing happens " , which proves that the Pentane Gas has migrated.

QuinnLite blocks are manufactured in Steam Autoclave ovens and are saturated when they come out. The U-value is the result of measuring dry blocks so make sure the blocks you get are dry and remain dry. There is plenty of research to show that fitting non breathable insulation onto a block walls increases the moisture levels of the wall and makes the U-value of the total wall 20% worse.

Mellor

Viking House wrote: »

Seeing as you are looking for everyones views, here are mine.

You should add 0.11 to the 0.16 wall U-value to allow for the "Cold Bridge" between the wall and the floor unless you are using QuinnTherm below the the DPC which is not recommended. Then you should add a further 0.11 for the Cold Bridge around the windows and doors.
Could you please show how you arrive at these figures, as I calculated that thermal bridge here and it wasn't that high. Quinnlite can be used below DPC level also

The Cold Bridge around the windows and doors through the steel lintel can be eliminated by leaving out the external wall and plastering directly onto external insulation.
The heat passing through the steel is quite a small amount as the has to travel 500mm to reach a point 100mm away, it this is a concern then use two lintels

Then there is the Cold Bridges at the Mortar joints between the QuinnLite blocks which could be 8-10% of the wall (I'm guessing). The answer to this would be to use Thin joint mortar but you would need blocks with accurate demensions.
These are not cold bridges. Of course they reduce the u-value, but by a tiny amount. Do you account for nails in timber frame buildings? And they aren't in the region of 8-10%, they are less

There is also the issue of the unstable U-value of Polyeurethene board insulation (Quinntherm, Kingspan and others). It leaves the production process with a Lambda value of 0.015 and 28 days later when it goes on the market the Lambda value has fallen to 0.025. What happens after 6 months?
You have repeatedly ask this what if question. Do you know the answer? I believe that if they was a further decrease you would of found out by now and posted it, also the IAB surely is aware of this and it would iof been tested
They rely on trapped Pentane for the high U-value which migrates and escapes at the edges of the sheet.
They do not rely on trapped pentane for a high U-value. When the pentane has left what takes its place? How does this affect it?


QuinnLite blocks are manufactured in Steam Autoclave ovens and are saturated when they come out. The U-value is the result of measuring dry blocks so make sure the blocks you get are dry and remain dry.
This applies to all materials used in building, including rockwool, timber and poroton blocks.

Viking, your feeling towards cavity construction is widely known, but it is wrong to post up misleading information. The problem with the cold bridge at the wall and floor is not unique to cavity wall infact it is WORSE when the wall is externally insulated. Posting up alterations to u-values of .11 without any backing is wrong. There is no need to suffer significant heat loss at any detail.

Some of what you said is true, and if workmanship is poor, the porformance is poor. This is true also of external insulation. Its easy get great preformance in one off, all the worse case scenerios will be in mass housing.
I have limited experience with external insulation, and what I seen was pretty bad.
How do you prevent water from entering the insulation from the external side. How do you deal with the absence of a DPC and the issue of rising water/damp.

metalscrubber

Got me thinking of realities if noting else.

Used Bogman's insulation costs and I'm looking at €13K for the QuinnTherm in the walls alone.

just wait until we get to the roof !

Sparky78

There is also the issue of the unstable U-value of Polyeurethene board insulation (Quinntherm, Kingspan and others). It leaves the production process with a Lambda value of 0.015 and 28 days later when it goes on the market the Lambda value has fallen to 0.025. What happens after 6 months? They rely on trapped Pentane for the high U-value which migrates and escapes at the edges of the sheet.
You can see this if you break a piece of Kingspan/Quinntherm in half and light a cigarette lighter beside it. In new boards the flame flares up but with old boards "nothing happens " , which proves that the Pentane Gas has migrated.
[/QUOTE]

Hi VH,

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Does Extruded polystyrene not also use a blowing agent like pentane, which you use in your foundations.
Would this not also then suffer from "unstable U values" based on your argument?

Viking House

You should add 0.11 to the 0.16 wall U-value to allow for the "Cold Bridge" between the wall and the floor unless you are using QuinnTherm below the the DPC which is not recommended. Then you should add a further 0.11 for the Cold Bridge around the windows and doors.

Could you please show how you arrive at these figures, as I calculated that thermal bridge here and it wasn't that high. Quinnlite can be used below DPC level also.
I just added on the average Cold Bridge figure from the DEAP programme.
The CB is way more serious when you use the PHPP (Passive House Planning Package)



The Cold Bridge around the windows and doors through the steel lintel can be eliminated by leaving out the external wall and plastering directly onto external insulation.
The heat passing through the steel is quite a small amount as the has to travel 500mm to reach a point 100mm away, it this is a concern then use two lintels.
Steel is a 25 times better conductor than Concrete so a 10mm Steel lintel would be a similar Cold Bridge to a 250mm Concrete Lintel. The other problem is the outer Lintel that you attach the window to would be a signifigant Cold Bridge.



Then there is the Cold Bridges at the Mortar joints between the QuinnLite blocks which could be 8-10% of the wall (I'm guessing). The answer to this would be to use Thin joint mortar but you would need blocks with accurate demensions.
These are not cold bridges. Of course they reduce the u-value, but by a tiny amount. And they aren't in the region of 8-10%, they are less.
Of course the Mortar Joints are Cold Bridges, 10-12mm joint both vertically and horisantally around each 210mm block comes to about 8%, maybe not as high as 10%.



There is also the issue of the unstable U-value of Polyeurethene board insulation (Quinntherm, Kingspan and others). It leaves the production process with a Lambda value of 0.015 and 28 days later when it goes on the market the Lambda value has fallen to 0.025. What happens after 6 months? They rely on trapped Pentane for the high U-value which migrates and escapes at the edges of the sheet.

They do not rely on trapped pentane for a high U-value. When the pentane has left what takes its place? How does this affect it?

Of course they do. How else does PU get A high U-value if not from Pentane. If it was trapped Air then the Lambda value would be similar to Polysterene.
I would give PU the same U-value as Polysterene when the Gas has escaped.



Viking, your feeling towards cavity construction is widely known, but it is wrong to post up misleading information.

I speak the truth. They readily speak of 1 litre houses in Germany, the average Irish house in a better climate is a 10 litre house. That's 10 litres of Oil/m2 floor area/year. We moved away from England with the Euro and the Kilometers, now its time to move away from a building system with too many faults.


The problem with the cold bridge at the wall and floor is not unique to cavity wall in fact it is worse when the wall is externally insulated. Posting up alterations to u-values of .11 without any backing is wrong. There is no need to suffer significant heat loss at any detail.

No it is not worse when you Externally Insulate in fact we have completly eliminated the CB with the U-min foundation and the Externally insulated Poroton. When you Ext Ins an existing house best practice is to insulate down as far as the foot of the foundation which is a lot better than insulating the cavity.


Some of what you said is true, and if workmanship is poor, the porformance is poor. This is true also of external insulation. Its easy get great preformance in one off, all the worse case scenerios will be in mass housing.

It is much easier to inspect external insulation for gaps before plastering than trying to look into a cavity with a flashlamp.



How do you prevent water from entering the insulation from the external side. How do you deal with the absence of a DPC and the issue of rising water/damp.
External Rockwool and Polysterene insulation are anti Capillary so no rising damp there, Polysterene is used below the DPC to be on the safe side. Waterproof Breathable plaster is used on the insulation

ardara1

Sparky78 wrote: »

There is also the issue of the unstable U-value of Polyeurethene board insulation (Quinntherm, Kingspan and others). It leaves the production process with a Lambda value of 0.015 and 28 days later when it goes on the market the Lambda value has fallen to 0.025. What happens after 6 months? They rely on trapped Pentane for the high U-value which migrates and escapes at the edges of the sheet.
You can see this if you break a piece of Kingspan/Quinntherm in half and light a cigarette lighter beside it. In new boards the flame flares up but with old boards "nothing happens " , which proves that the Pentane Gas has migrated.

Hi VH,

Correct me if I'm wrong.
Does Extruded polystyrene not also use a blowing agent like pentane, which you use in your foundations.
Would this not also then suffer from "unstable U values" based on your argument?[/QUOTE]

Lets work backways Sparky - It's not 0.025 - it's 0.023 - you're right - it does come off the production line at around 0.018. The 0.023 is the declared value under ISEN 13163 - this 'Penalty' ACCOUNTS for any depletion of performance over the life of a building. All PUR/PIR products are aged before lambda testing is done.

VH - If you want to know the properties of EPS - read 13165

ardara1

Viking House wrote: »

Seeing as you are looking for everyones views, here are mine.

You should add 0.11 to the 0.16 wall U-value to allow for the "Cold Bridge" between the wall and the floor

You're getting a bit mixed up again VH -

The U-value of a wall is the U-value opf the wall measured to BS6943 using the conventions of BR443

Now the thermal bridge at the junction - it is measured separately to determine a Psi value to IP1/06 - the f value is also measured to confirm any threat surface condensation.

You're constantly scare mongering on a board thats there to help people - if you don't agree with the Standards laid down by Europe/UK/Ireland about measuring condensation/Thermal Performance/thermal bridging - then agrue against the methodologies that we all have to work to - not just arguing because you spoke to some bloke in Sweden who think different!

Viking House

ardara1 wrote: »

You're getting a bit mixed up again VH -
The U-value of a wall is the U-value of the wall measured to BS6943 using the conventions of BR443
Now the thermal bridge at the junction - it is measured separately to determine a Psi value to IP1/06 - the f value is also measured to confirm any threat surface condensation.

No I am not getting mixed up Adara!
My information is correct! In the rest of Europe they give a U-value for a wall that includes the wall/floor junction. In Ireland and England we measure everything seperately. But when our Government is on TV comparing U-values with Sweden, they say it compares quite favourably, but they are not comparing like with like. We have the highest heating costs in Europe after England because we are held to ransom by Kingspan and CRH.

The truth often scares people Adara!

I checked this out from the following 3 very reliable sources who all came up with the same result.

Joe Durkin from SEI
Joe Condon from Aerobord and
Patrick Daly who lectures in Sustainable Design in DCU.

All 3 are proficient in the DEAP programme.

Yes! Polysterene production uses Penthane gas in its production but less than 5% of it is left when the boards leave the production process. PU boards have a much higher level of trapped Penthane gas in the boards.
The Pentane gas in EPS is between the air bubbles so doesn't contribute to the U-value. The down side is that most Polysterene producers don't reuse Pentane gas and most is lost to the atmosphere. Polysterene that has been floating on the sea for 10 years can still be used as insulation.

Mellor

Viking House wrote: »

I just added on the average Cold Bridge figure from the DEAP programme.
The CB is way more serious when you use the PHPP (Passive House Planning Package)
The junction is more critical in passive houses, it isn't as bad in a standard house, and an average value shouldn't be used.




Steel is a 25 times better conductor than Concrete so a 10mm Steel lintel would be a similar Cold Bridge to a 250mm Concrete Lintel. The other problem is the outer Lintel that you attach the window to would be a signifigant Cold Bridge.
No. Steel is 10 times more conductive.
A steel lintel isn't 10mm thick, its about 4, this relates to a 40mm conrete lintel.



Of course the Mortar Joints are Cold Bridges, 10-12mm joint both vertically and horisantally around each 210mm block comes to about 8%, maybe not as high as 10%.
THe joints are 10mm not 12, the blocks are 215mm not 210. You should know this. It comes to 6.5%. It causes about a 6% decrease in U value, adara might know better than me but the testing for blocks probably even includes mortar, certainly should be.



Of course they do. How else does PU get A high U-value if not from Pentane. If it was trapped Air then the Lambda value would be similar to Polysterene.
I would give PU the same U-value as Polysterene when the Gas has escaped.
No it wouldn't be the same as polysterene, difference materials, difference ratios of trapped air. Still air has an excellant thermal resistance. This is the basis for all insulation. EPS and rockwool rely both on trapped air, but have different conductivities. The air between bubbles is nonsense. The more trapped air the higher resistance.
A perfect example of this are Silca and carbon Aerogels. This are similar to XPS/EPS type products, they are truely remarkable.
They are 99% air. They have a thermal conductivity of 0.004 W/mk, thats 1000% the resistance of rockwool. They arey incredibly strong, a 2g block of aerogel can support a 2500g block. Once these become economically viable they will be used everywhere. There are there products that rely on traped air that have different resistances.
As I have always said, and ardara has referenced, testing is for aged materials.


No it is not worse when you Externally Insulate in fact we have completly eliminated the CB with the U-min foundation and the Externally insulated Poroton. When you Ext Ins an existing house best practice is to insulate down as far as the foot of the foundation which is a lot better than insulating the cavity.
Explain how it is not worse with external insulation. I havely already explain how it is.
An insulated U foundation will eliminate the cold bridge, but this has nothing to do with external insulation . BTW, the detail you provide looks quite good, but you should "link" it with externalation insulation as it s just a good with a cavity.


External Rockwool and Polysterene insulation are anti Capillary so no rising damp there, Polysterene is used below the DPC to be on the safe side. Waterproof Breathable plaster is used on the insulation
Rock wool isn't anti capillary, unless it is sealed.

As I have said many times some of what you say is true, but you misuses information.



As an aside, how long had Pat Daly been teaching in DCU. And its best not to refer to the manufacturer of your product as a reference for it (Joe Condon)

Viking House

I just added on the average Cold Bridge figure from the DEAP programme.
The CB is way more serious when you use the PHPP (Passive House Planning Package)
The junction is more critical in passive houses, it isn't as bad in a standard house, and an average value shouldn't be used.
The CB is critical in all houses as it is all lost heat/money. I will accept though that the more CB's you close up the more critical the remaining ones are.




Steel is a 25 times better conductor than Concrete so a 10mm Steel lintel would be a similar Cold Bridge to a 250mm Concrete Lintel. The other problem is the outer Lintel that you attach the window to would be a signifigant Cold Bridge.
No. Steel is 10 times more conductive. A steel lintel isn't 10mm thick, its about 4mm, this relates to a 40mm concrete lintel.
The Lambda value I just got now for Concrete is 1.35W/mK and I got 50W/mK for Steel which is 37 times higher. So 4mm Steel = 150mm Concrete lintel.
Correct me if you have different figures.


The joints are 10mm not 12, the blocks are 215mm not 210. It comes to 6.5%. It causes about a 6% decrease in U value, adara might know better than me but the testing for blocks probably even includes mortar, certainly should be.

6%-7% Cold Bridging I will accept for the Mortar Joints. It is still a point worth making!


No it wouldn't be the same as polysterene, difference materials, difference ratios of trapped air. Still air has an excellant thermal resistance. This is the basis for all insulation. EPS and rockwool rely both on trapped air, but have different conductivities. The air between bubbles is nonsense. The more trapped air the higher resistance.
A perfect example of this are Silca and carbon Aerogels. This are similar to XPS/EPS type products, they are truely remarkable.
They are 99% air. They have a thermal conductivity of 0.004 W/mk, thats 1000% the resistance of rockwool. They arey incredibly strong, a 2g block of aerogel can support a 2500g block. Once these become economically viable they will be used everywhere. There are there products that rely on traped air that have different resistances.
As I have always said, and ardara has referenced, testing is for aged materials.

Some good points there Mellor and Adara, I need to do more research on PU. I'm going to drop this topic until I get more information. Please send me more info on the Aerogels as they sound very interesting.


Explain how the CB at this junction is not worse with external insulation.
Because they normally insulate down to the footings or lower externally when they renovate old houses. You are insulating a foot lower at a critical CB point in the wall. The before and after Thermal Imaging photos proove this. A good idea is to also put in a French Drain at the footing level at the same time.


Rock wool isn't anti capillary, unless it is sealed.

I've immersed some of the dense Rockwool External insulation in a bucket of water for 2 weeks and later cut it open with a bread knife and the water doesn't get past the outer 1mm.
Its treated with a moisture repellant and is compacted to a level that makes it water proof. We put some on a TF shed without plastering to see what would happen and the rain never gets past the outer 1-2mm.


As an aside, how long had Pat Daly been teaching in DCU. And its best not to refer to the manufacturer of your product as a reference for it (Joe Condon)

Ok but I had two good references before Joe Condon but I take your point.
I think Pat is in DCU for 2-3 years now.

Mellor

Viking House wrote: »

The Lambda value I just got now for Concrete is 1.35W/mK and I got 50W/mK for Steel which is 37 times higher. So 4mm Steel = 150mm Concrete lintel.
Correct me if you have different figures.
Concrete is about right, Steel is 15W/mK. With steel section in concrete lintel its about a factor of 10.
50 w/mK relates to galvanised steel, the reason that its so much worse id because is very conductive. The Steel is 15, zinc 100, and they average at the 50 mark, this is just an average and would vary alot depending on plated vrs hot dipped and the % the zinc makes up.



Some good points there Mellor and Adara, I need to do more research on PU. I'm going to drop this topic until I get more information. Please send me more info on the Aerogels as they sound very interesting.
They are amazing, have a search online and you'll find some facts. The lightest one are only about 50% denser than air, so they are the lightest solids in the world,
Currently used by nasa as insulation to protect agaisnt re-entry heat.
I expect they cost too much to be used in building applications yet. But they will seriously reduce thickness of walls if they become cheaper.
They look like frozed smoke, and are sort of transparent. I have heard of them being used as sky lights in the USA, an foggy window that likes light in through the roof, but has an equal U-value to the rest of the roof.


[/COLOR]

Ok but I had two good references before Joe Condon but I take your point.
I think Pat is in DCU for 2-3 years now.
Oh, I think you mean DIT, Pat was lecturing in architectural technology. He left the teaching staff this year, when you mentioned DCU I thought he transfer over there.
He is still every much involved in sustainable design, heading up the RiSE research and his opinion very valid.

.

ardara1

Viking House wrote: »

No I am not getting mixed up Adara!
My information is correct! In the rest of Europe they give a U-value for a wall that includes the wall/floor junction. In Ireland and England we measure everything seperately. But when our Government is on TV comparing U-values with Sweden, they say it compares quite favourably, but they are not comparing like with like. We have the highest heating costs in Europe after England because we are held to ransom by Kingspan and CRH.

The truth often scares people Adara!

I checked this out from the following 3 very reliable sources who all came up with the same result.

Joe Durkin from SEI
Joe Condon from Aerobord and
Patrick Daly who lectures in Sustainable Design in DCU.

All 3 are proficient in the DEAP programme.

.

VH Think about it - THERMAL BRIDGES ARE LINEAR
A U-Valuye is based on M2 - how in gods name do you reconcile the two?
You have a massive wall with 1 window x time cill/head and reveal length

Or you have 10 windows x10

Can you ask Joe or Pat to make a comment on this?

sinnerboy

Last time I checked with Homebond ( about 2 years ago ) they told me they wont approve quinn Lite block construction . No big deal if your not looking for homebond Cert . They ( HB ) are a very conservative outfit but they do keep standards up in Ireland in the absence of a crebedible building control inspectorate regime .

metalscrubber

I'll call Homebond as soon as I am home as I certainly want their seal of approval.

I'll post and let you know

Metal

bradnailer

You may want to talk to a engineer about loads,the inner leaf takes the loads of the first floor and the roof, I've used them on a build as internal first floor walls to replace partitions,the inner leaf of the outer wall was block. The Quinns were built off a concrete first floor slab, Quinn do recommend a slightly different mortar mix.

sinnerboy

metalscrubber wrote: »

I'll call Homebond as soon as I am home as I certainly want their seal of approval.

I'll post and let you know

Metal

Please do - I'd be glad to hear if HB say same to you or not

muffler

Right lads. This thread in particular has ended up with posts looking like a rainbow - with this taking the biscuit so to speak. I tried to read through the thread but got lost and honestly I didnt know who was replying to who and to what and what with.

From now on I would ask you to use the normal "quote" and if necessary use the multi-quote facility.

Just to remind you that boards.ie rules states that a user is not to post "within" a quoted post from another user.

johnwstafford

metalscrubber wrote: »

Good evening all, and happy birthday Smashey,

A long long term lurker here finally coming out of the woodwork because the news this week is positive at last - planning permission granted.

I have being considering the following and would appricate all your views.

STD solid 100mm block for outer leaf with sand/cement plaster.
50mm airgap
75mm QuinnTherm
215 mm B3 QuinnLite inner leaf with internal skim of plaster.

Total width 440mm or a little over 17"
According to Quinn's own data backed by IAB cert that gives me a Uvalue of 0.16

House is two story, 3000 sq ft. I plan, and will be asking about similar levels of insulation for the floor and roof.

Cheers,

Metal

Hi Metal,
I am currently looking into what materials I am going to apply to my house. After reading your post, I am using exactly what you have mentioned:

Dense Concrete 100mm block for outer leaf with sand/cement plaster.(Typical 10mm joint)
50mm airgap
75mm QuinnTherm
215 mm B3 QuinnLite inner leaf with internal skim of plaster.(Thin joint 2-3mm joint as specified by quinn)
My house is a little over 3000 sq ft.

Can you tell me how you faired out with this or did you go with it?
Did you use the 2-3mm thin joint? Is a special block layer needed to implement this special joint?
Did you use any of the Quinn Lite foundation blocks to cut the CB in the floor?
I am planning of installing a conrete first floor. Did you use this? If so, any problems?
Can you see the difference of using the quinn lite blocks in your heating bills as opposed to a normal house?
Can you give me a rough estimate how much the quinn lite blocks are?
Any further info you wish to add that you think would be of benefit would be greatly appreciated!

metalscrubber

PM sent . .

Holla23

Metal,

Not sure if you are still about on boards as this thread is old but planning a build myself and looking into a similar spec for the cavity as yours.

Would appreciate the same info you sent to johnwstafford if at all possible.

Thanks!