Got me a T-Maxx 3.3. Nitro NOOB.

riptide · 16-09-2007 9:59pm #1

So I bought a T-Maxx 3.3. I fired in some of that 16% Nitro goodness and broke her in nicely.

Now I'm tuning her a little. Got done with my first few long high speed runs today in a big carpark. Damn she sounds great at full tilt, and going through the revs after the change to 2nd is just great at speed.

Anyways. I''ve notice that from idle, if I pull the trigger hard she'll stutter a little. Will actually go to stall unless I ease back. Am I right in saying this is a little too rich low speed needle?

She also stalled once or twice after a few high speed runs. I'm getting the hang of it, but was short on time. I have an IR gun, and notice that I was running too lean when I was runing her slowly in the garden. She was hitting 330F. So I richened it and she settled back to ~280F. I wonder did I richen it too much?

What temps do you guys run at?

Thanks in advance. I'm a nitro nOOb. Had a few electric 'toys' :rolleyes: previously, but decided to raise the game a little with the T-Maxx.

Plug · 18-09-2007 8:14am

It sounds too lean if its cutting out after a high speed run(its in the DVD you got) and also 330F is way too hot, try get it down to 250F-270F. So in a nut shell just richen it a small bit.

coolwings · 18-09-2007 8:53am

riptide wrote:

...Anyways. I''ve notice that from idle, if I pull the trigger hard she'll stutter a little. Will actually go to stall unless I ease back. Am I right in saying this is a little too rich low speed needle? ....

That is because it is rich on the idle needle, poss a bit lean on the main needle.

The temp is relative.
Those of us who use 15-18% oil fuel, or fuel with higher quality oil like Go Glo Plus for example, are able to run engines a whole lot hotter than other users with 10-15% oil, due to the fact that the better oil still keeps the engine free and lubricated even when it is hotter. So how the engine goes is more important than the number on the thermometer!

Plug · 18-09-2007 9:00am

What tempeture does steam coming off the engine usally accour at?

riptide · 18-09-2007 1:05pm

Plug wrote:

What tempeture does steam coming off the engine usally accour at?

No steam.

Coolwings> its the 16% Go Go I got from Greens in Harolds X.

Hmm i reckon its too lean at the H. S. needle and possibly too rich at the L. S. needle. Anyways, I reckon the engine ain't broken in fully. Some folks reckon that I'll have to go through a gallon of fuel before she's fully up to speed. So back to having fun at the weekend. Pity the days are getting shorter. Dark at 8:30 nearly.

Plug · 18-09-2007 1:47pm

Try putting the carb at the factory settings and see what happens and tune from there. I used to do that with my T-maxx and that did the job.
The engine is still not broke in fully, traxxas say to do 5 tanks but after about 10-15 it should start losing up nicely;)

coolwings · 18-09-2007 2:04pm

riptide wrote:

... its the 16% Go Go ...

That is 18% oil, 15% synthetic oil plus 3% castor oil, so if the engine runs hot, it's because it's still a bit tight from newness (or maybe set a bit lean for such a new state) and still has to loosen up a bit more.

Plug wrote:

... The engine is still not broke in fully, traxxas say to do 5 tanks but after about 10-15 it should start losing up nicely;)

I think like Plug on that point ... for running-in, it takes at least a half gallon of fuel (often more) , not the tiddly "tank or two" that the makers books refer to. A couple of tanks does rub the worst off, but they need more fuel/run-time/mileage to make them smooth out.

vectra · 18-09-2007 4:27pm

On my old 3.3 revo I noticed a big difference in power after the 12th or so tank. Only then did it start loosening out.
BUT
Somebody got Speed hungry and put 25% Tornado in it with only 8% oil I think.
Blew the conrod :rolleyes:

riptide · 22-09-2007 10:13pm

So had her out again on the tarmac after a few warmup laps around the garden. Damn! Smashed up a rusty garden arch with it. sorry granny

Anyways she IS loosening up a bit and the tuning is a bit better. Hits 2nd gear faster now and gets very light on the front wheels during acceleration.

Just noticed something sticking out of the exhaust and tried to pull it out. Black and plastic-cy. Theres still something still in it. Kinda wondering is there somthing in the exhaust assembly that may have come loose? Was thinking maybe a twig or rubish that I might have picked up in rough cut grass during reverse?

vectra · 23-09-2007 12:45am

riptide wrote:

So had her out again on the tarmac after a few warmup laps around the garden. Damn! Smashed up a rusty garden arch with it. sorry granny

Anyways she IS loosening up a bit and the tuning is a bit better. Hits 2nd gear faster now and gets very light on the front wheels during acceleration.

Just noticed something sticking out of the exhaust and tried to pull it out. Black and plastic-cy. Theres still something still in it. Kinda wondering is there somthing in the exhaust assembly that may have come loose? Was thinking maybe a twig or rubish that I might have picked up in rough cut grass during reverse?

Pull it out of it..
It will only block the exhaust flow.

The reason it changes to 2nd easier now is most likely as you are running it on tarmac and it doesnt have the Drag effect of the grass

riptide · 23-09-2007 1:18am

I'm comparing the gear shift to the first time on tarmac also.

OK. Seems like the baffle melts on these stock plastic exhausts. Thats prob what it is. Damn>!

vectra · 23-09-2007 10:05am

riptide wrote:

I'm comparing the gear shift to the first time on tarmac also.

OK. Seems like the baffle melts on these stock plastic exhausts. Thats prob what it is. Damn>!

Buy one of these and sort your problems and increase your power output even more.

Resonator pipe :cool:

Plug · 23-09-2007 11:40am

The stock pipe on the t-maxx is not fantastic but it dosen't melt.
Go with vectra's idea with the resonater pipe and then get a motorsaver airfilter.
Both add good a noticable amount of power;)

Here is the resonator pipe and This is the airfilter.
Now is a good time to buy, the doller is trading a t 1.40:eek:

riptide · 23-09-2007 2:36pm

Plug wrote:

The stock pipe on the t-maxx is not fantastic but it dosen't melt.
Go with vectra's idea with the resonater pipe and then get a motorsaver airfilter.
Both add good a noticable amount of power;)

Here is the resonator pipe and This is the airfilter.
Now is a good time to buy, the doller is trading a t 1.40:eek:

Plug. According to the folks over at Traxxas its actually very common for the Baffle in them to melt. And yes, the airfilter and resonator is a very good idea.

Plug · 23-09-2007 2:41pm

Never melted on me and i have that ages!

Anyhow you should look into the 2 of them, bring the beast out in your maxx;)

vectra · 23-09-2007 4:25pm

Plug wrote:

Never melted on me and i have that ages!
Anyhow you should look into the 2 of them, bring the beast out in your maxx;)

Nor on my sons one. But I have heard of it happening.
Go get that resonator pipe and to Motosaver filter.
Watch the T-Maxx lift the front wheels then

riptide · 24-09-2007 9:47pm

vectra wrote:

Nor on my sons one. But I have heard of it happening.
Go get that resonator pipe and to Motosaver filter.
Watch the T-Maxx lift the front wheels then

Ha!... That means you're not driving it hard enough....

j/k

Ya. I'll order them next week. But busy now. When's all is got and fitted, I'll have to have a Youtube effort and repost back here.

vectra · 24-09-2007 10:07pm

riptide wrote:

Ha!... That means you're not driving it hard enough.... j/k

LOL
you are talking to the fella that leans them out "jus a bit more" to get the last once of Revs out of it..

Got me a T-Maxx 3.3. Nitro NOOB.

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