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Suzuki GZ250 where's the battery

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  • 15-09-2007 12:24pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭


    My bike wouldn't start this morning, just wouldn't turn over. I suspect the battery is is dead, where is it so i can get charging?

    I know it's a sad question but help a brother out!

    thanks


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    found it, everything is aok!


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,016 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    Remember, for the next time, in case you are in a hurry or can't accress a charger - the bike will usually start with a push start. Use 2nd gear.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    thanks for that, i tried in first and had no luck!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,463 ✭✭✭KTRIC


    Have you got an alarm ?, my first bike was a GZ and the battery never let me down, even after sitting for weeks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    I don't have an alarm, it's a 03 Marauder which i got last week. The battery was badly buckled so I need a new one. And I think the clutch has gone too so it will be an expensive week without the bike!!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    Having more woes! I put in a new battery and i have lights back but no electric start. Can someone tell me where the fusebox is and do i have to buy new fuses or do they trip like in a house?


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,980 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    comer_97 wrote:
    And I think the clutch has gone too so it will be an expensive week without the bike!!!

    Unlikely to be the clutch itself. Probably the cable either adjusted wrongly, or needs to be replaced (cheap). If the lever is stiff to pull, the cable just needs a lube.

    If fuses are blown you need to replace them, there should be a spare or two in the fusebox though if you're lucky. Rarely fuses blow for no real reason but usually it's a fault, so the new one will blow too...

    Electric start refusing to work is probably the clutch lever switch. Most Suzukis need the lever pulled in to start, I presume you're doing that... Failing that the sidestand switch which is exposed to a lot of road cack.

    Life ain't always empty.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    I checked the fuses this morning and they are all fine. The cables seem in tact.

    It's not the kill switch, I was told it could be the new battery needs more of a charge to power the ignition and the indicators. So I will try charging up the battery tonight.

    The clutch thing is down to the smell I'm getting from it, smells like a burning rotten smell and I was told by the bike recovery guy that it means i might need new clutch plates (but i'm kind of clueless about this).


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    tried push starting last night and absolutely nothing, the engine barely makes a sound when i let the clutch out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,980 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    comer_97 wrote:
    It's not the kill switch, I was told it could be the new battery needs more of a charge to power the ignition and the indicators. So I will try charging up the battery tonight.
    Just to clarify. The kill switch is the (usually) red switch on the right handlebar used to turn off the ignition if the throttle jams. You should never touch this switch otherwise.
    The clutch switch is a 'microswitch' (about 2cm long with a small button sticking out at one end) which is operated when you pull in the clutch lever. If this switch is faulty, the bike won't start.
    There is usually also a similar microswitch on the sidestand mount, if the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear the ignition cuts out.
    Many people short out the clutch switch (fairly ok) and some people short out the sidestand switch (very dangerous if you ride off with stand down.)
    The clutch thing is down to the smell I'm getting from it, smells like a burning rotten smell and I was told by the bike recovery guy that it means i might need new clutch plates (but i'm kind of clueless about this).
    Sounds like it's slipping badly. Is the engine oil level very low (or engine oil is totally the wrong type?) Does the clutch cable have the correct free play - usually 3-5mm of free play at the end of the clutch lever before the slack is taken up.
    Unfortunately, a slipping clutch will sooner or later damage the clutch plates which is a big enough job to change.

    When you are push starting, you will need to be going 10 or 15mph and in either 2nd or 3rd gear. When you push the starter button, does the headlamp go dim? Do you hear a clacking sound (the solenoid) from near the battery? If you hear and see nothing then the starter circuit is probably not working at all, clutch switch, sidestand switch or faulty wiring are the prime suspects.

    Edit: Actually, if your clutch is slipping badly then there's no point trying to push start the bike, the engine won't turn if the clutch is slipping.

    Life ain't always empty.



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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    thanks for the help Ninja.

    I was having trouble changing gear when trying to push start it. I think I am going to have someone come out.

    I think at this stage it is not something that I can fix.

    I will let you know what the story is

    thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,016 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    Check the switches ninja900 referred to. Check them again. Are they all connected properly?

    Secondly, why are you trying to change gear during the attempt to push start it??

    Sequence is:

    1. Put the bike in 2nd gear while stationary.

    2. Switch on ignition.

    3. Pull in clutch lever.

    4. Start pushing, running beside the bike, or astride if you have a friend or two pushing.

    5. When rolling at the fastest you or your friends can push, let out the clutch all the way by releasing the lever completely. If you are trying this solo, jump astride the bike before letting the clutch out.

    6. If the engine catches, be gentle on the throttle, but try to keep the engine running.

    7. Don't make repeated attempts with the choke on, you will flood the engine.

    8. If you think the engine is flooded (too many attempts with choke, or you were working the throttle too much), try with the choke off and the throttle completely open (i.e. wound all the way back towards you). If the engine fires, let the throttle off or the bike may surge ahead under full throttle. Again, try to keep the engine running by judicious use of the throttle.

    Not your ornery onager



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 522 ✭✭✭comer_97


    trying to get it into second to push start was a problem.

    I had a recovery guy out this morning and he couldn't get it sorted. He said it looks like there was a problem with the ignition before and someone spliced some cables somewhere. It's been taken in to be fixed and hopefully it will be.


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