Replacement monitor for Old Hantarex ?

deadl0ck

Hi all,

I'm looking for a replacement monitor for a Hantarex MTC 9000 - The manual that was with it says 16" - 16" - 20", so I'm assuming mine is 20" (although the viewable area seems to be 19", but the monitor itself is 20")

Anyhow, I'm looking for a good replacement monitor (probably something from Happ Controls) with VGA Input and pretty good resolution for all eras of games (and Windows).

Can anybody offer any suggestions as to what would fit in my arcade cab that currently houses the Hantarex ?

Thanks !

defenderdude

Usually the Hantarex 9000 in vid games is a 19" model.
Must you replace it or is it repairable?
I dont have one and all my arcade contacts are either UK or no longer in the business/ not really in touch with the scene.

You may have to buy a new one:(

I've replaced a cap kit on one a while back and the difference was amazing but if the monitor's burnt to sh** then maybe just bin it. Flyback trafo's are handy enough to get but not as easy a job as the cap kit - there's alot of KV back there:eek:

My guess is you'll be quite lucky to get hold of a good one - ie. one that works.
I tried for years through arcades and sure you can pick up loads - but mostly crap. I've often bought complete cabs just to take the monitor.:(

cap kit
http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/490549001.htm
I couldnt see a MTC9000 19" flyback trafo on the site
If you are considering changing for a new one - consider the WG monitors which are better imo.
Should fit in quite well in place of the Hantarex.
A.

deadl0ck

Are the Caps easy to get at and replace ?

Also - are the fittings on these monitors standard ? i.e. would any 19" WG have the same fittings as the Hantarex ?

Thanks !

defenderdude

deadl0ck wrote:

Are the Caps easy to get at and replace ?

Also - are the fittings on these monitors standard ? i.e. would any 19" WG have the same fittings as the Hantarex ?

Thanks !

From memory they are reasonably easy but you will need to remove the main pcb to get at the underside to de-solder them. The last set I did came with a diagram showing where each capacitor was to go - just get the polarity correct.
It is a slow job! I assume the monitor is actually worth doing? The cap kits are cheap tho, so the only real cost is your time and even if you still bin it, at least it's experience.

Just be careful with the high KV's!!!

I've changed monitors back and forth and never really had any problems. There will usually be plenty of holes to place suitable bolts/screws. Be prepared to do a little "adjusting" but it's generally quite straightforward.
Aidan.

deadl0ck

Great !

Thanks for all the valuable info !

defenderdude

Forgot to say - just make sure the psu to the monitor is the same voltage - from memory I think most are 128V but just be careful that you dont stick 220into a 128V monitor.
A.

phillo

Some time ago, a friend of mine had recovered an arcade machine from a skip, unfortunately the screen (Wells Gardner) was smashed, so he had to source out a replacement.

He got a quote from Happ controls that would set him back about Eur500/600 including shipping from the UK (I THINK it is cheaper to buy it through their US web site, but, they insist that Irish customers purchase through their UK Web site which is a little bit more expensive. (Don't quote me on that.))

Another option was to purchase directly from Hantarex. They are an Italian company so everything will be all EU friendly. You won't have to worry about paying any duty on shipping, currency exchanges, etc. They have branches all over Europe. Try their web site for Italy http://www.hantarex.it/pages/hp_en.jsp and the UK http://mania.net/hantarex/index.asp

My mate didn't research that option much because he got an offer from an electrician that did maintenance in some caravan park arcades. He was selling a reconditioned Well Gardner (I'm not quite sure what is involved in reconditioning a monitor, maybe installing a new cap kit, wiping some dust off????) for EUR150/200. He might still have his contact number if your interested????

He was going to go for that option until he got lucky. My brother in law had spotted an Electrocoin Arcade Cabinet in a front garden in Walkinstown. It looked like the house was getting refurbished because there was a skip in the garden, so we assumed that this cab was getting binned. He made an enquiry at the house and true enough the cab was getting thrown out. It had been exposed to the elements for quite a while so the wood was all swollen and the cab was in bad shape, but alas, the internals were in PWO. The monitor was transplanted and the harness, joystick and buttons were put in storage for a future project. There was also a World Rally Champion PCB by Gaelco inside. Nice one!



Incidentally, he was not happy with the little bit of screen burn, so a Cap Kit was purchased for about Eur30 and installed to make the screen brighter so that the burn would not be noticed. We had fun doing that, luckily the monitor was already discharged and it's not that difficult to do, just be aware of the HIGH VOLTAGES. If you don't know what your doing, i strongly recommend that you get a professional to do it. e.g. an electrician or a TV repair man

I hope that this little story was of some help to you,

Regards,

Phillo

PS I nearly forgot, I don't know if the fittings on the monitors compatible, but a simple swap cable could be made up for less that a fiver, should the problem arise.

defenderdude

I was going through some boxes of old video and pinball spares n parts and I came across the orig document that I got with the cap kit.

You could just source the capacitors yourself (Peats or Farnell etc...) Here's the relevant info.


START.
Competitive Products Corp. Kit 01-4193 Installation Instructions

This monitor repair kit is designed for the Hantarex MTC 9000 14,16 and 20 inch color monitors.

Contents:
1* 1uF @ 50V
2* 1uF @ 100V
1* 4.7uF @ 50V
1* 10uF @ 50V
1* 22uF @ 25V
1* 22uF @ 50V
2* 47uF @ 16V (they actually included 2* 47uF @ 50V)
2* 100uF @ 35V
2* 1000uF @ 16V
1* 1000uF @ 35V
2* 1uF @ 250V
1* 10uF @ 200V
1* 22uF @ 160V
1* 22uF @ 250V

Be sure to install all the parts on the monitor even though many of the original parts seem to be working fine.
Age, humidity and temperature will cause the value of electrolytic capicitors to change.
Installing all of the parts will assure many more years of trouble free service.

Each capacitor is polarised and can only be inserted in one direction.
Watch the polarity markings on each capicitor.
On the top side of the monitor board where the capicitor is located, is a circle with a black dot on one side. The black dot indicates where the negative (-) lead is to be inserted.

locations/positions:

C6 47uF@16V
C9 100uF@35V
C14 47uF@16V
C15 1000uF@16V
C16 1000uF@16V
C22 1uF@50V
C23 1uF@100V
C34 22uF@160V
C35 22uF@25V
C38 1uF@100V
C42 4.7uF@50V
C45 1uF@250V
C54 22uF@250V
C56 1uF@250V
C57 1000uF@35V
C58 10uF@50V
C59 100uF@35V
C201 22uF@50V - neck board
C205 10uF@250V - neck board** see note

Be sure to doble check your work before turning the power on.

Note: On all value capacitors, you may use higher voltage rating.
In our kits, some are higher voltage!

**C205 note:
You may use 10uF@200V as voltage reference is only 180V.
Also, 10uF@200V is surge tested to 250V.

END


If you need any further info - regarding monitor discharge :eek: (should be an olympic sport) etc. just lemme know.

Hope it's of help. It was to me!

deadl0ck

Hi Guys - Thanks for all the info !!

I'll keep yiz posted !

PPS

Anyone know who does repairs/services for the hantarex lcds in Ireland?
I have the 40inch lcd with wmc inside and it keeps turing itself off, i have already paid 250 for someone to come out and not fix it and he wants another 1100 to repair it fully, its only 2 years old, and im sure its only a loose wire somewhere.

deadl0ck

Mitchomagic might be able to help you out