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Highlighting trademarks

  • 04-09-2007 4:04pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭
    Master of the Universe


    Okay my description will make more sense than the thread title.

    I'm just after ordering a nice big silencer for my mac 11. So it will look like this

    KAMAC11Silencer.gif

    As you can see, there are some lovely white trademarks on it. The Mac itself has trades, they just havent been filled in with white.

    KSCM11Chamber.jpg

    Would like to get them as close to this as possible

    unc-ksc-m11-fm_big.jpg

    Anyone have any ideas? Oil based paints wouldnt work due to having to regularly silicone oil the GBB. Acrylic may...but it wouldnt be as strong. hm.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,040 ✭✭✭odonnell


    would something like this http://www.discountedofficesupply.com/permanent-marker-fine-tip-white-ink-office-products-17606.html do the trick? Even if you got an ultra fine paint brush (couple of hairs) to do the filling in...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Well rather than actually draw them on, I was going to put some form of white paint onto a cloth and rub it into the trademarks. Then wipe any excess off.

    It'll work, I just need to find a paint that will dry and not come off. I tried to add a little red dot to the safety on my bell m9 but it just came off when I was oiling it up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,040 ✭✭✭odonnell


    yeah the problem with things like marker ink would be that youd struggle to whipe it away such is the drying time...

    ummmmm.....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40,291 ✭✭✭✭Gatling


    you could use a car scratch repair paint with a fine brush or small sponge ,just make sure you remove all excess paint,or you may end up having to do a full metro camo job


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Yeah, tipex came to mind but that dries instantly too.

    Car repair paint? good thinking. That may work. Depends how long it takes to dry. To google!


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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 8,679 Mod ✭✭✭✭Rew


    Iv seen info on repainting a real steel HK SL8. They used to come in gray and guys redid them in black and redid the inlays like you want to here. Might be woth a google.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 207 ✭✭Hunter1100


    Watch these vids very well put together
    http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=35CFAE92996289C5
    never tried it myself


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭kdouglas


    white crayon can work too apparently, wouldnt mind trying this with my g19

    http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=115002&hl=white+trades
    http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=115386&st=0&#entry1418979

    tippex also seems to be recommended


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭kdouglas


    that vid on youtube looks excellent, might even try this on my glock later this evening :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,467 ✭✭✭bushy...


    There's a yoke looks like a crayon but is paint , used for panels / in cockpits etc There is a similar thing for highlighting tyres might be easier to get. It dries slowly enough so you can clean it off easily


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Hunter1100 wrote:
    Watch these vids very well put together
    http://www.youtube.com/view_play_list?p=35CFAE92996289C5
    never tried it myself

    Ah excellent! Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,659 ✭✭✭CrazyRabbit


    You could go for a 'masking tape' type approach.

    Cover the trademark with thin paper, or similar.

    Trace along the lettering using a sharp'ish object (not enough to scratch).

    Apply white paint suitable for metals/abs whichever it may be.

    Peel off the paper.

    Badly explained, but I'm in a hurry.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,984 ✭✭✭NakedDex


    That video is pretty much exactly the process I was going to suggest. I would like to add to it though by saying that you must use enamel paint on the area. Trying the same thing with acrylic or water based paints that are common place, especially among those who frequent the likes of Games Workshop, won't work. They run and break down to easily under the thinners.
    Also, make sure the area is spotless first or you'll tear your hair out because your 0 became an 8 during the painting.
    Lastly, if you can get your hands on some, blotting paper is the best to use for this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 180 ✭✭Markspi


    o1s1n wrote:
    Okay my description will make more sense than the thread title.

    I'm just after ordering a nice big silencer for my mac 11. So it will look like this

    KAMAC11Silencer.gif

    As you can see, there are some lovely white trademarks on it. The Mac itself has trades, they just havent been filled in with white.

    KSCM11Chamber.jpg

    Would like to get them as close to this as possible

    unc-ksc-m11-fm_big.jpg

    Anyone have any ideas? Oil based paints wouldnt work due to having to regularly silicone oil the GBB. Acrylic may...but it wouldnt be as strong. hm.

    I work beside a car respray place i will ask for you in the morning ,
    as far as i know most of the car repair places have now to switch to water base paint.

    did you try a cellulose paint then when you clean of access apply thin coat of lacquer


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Markspi wrote:
    I work beside a car respray place i will ask for you in the morning ,
    as far as i know most of the car repair places have now to switch to water base paint.

    did you try a cellulose paint then when you clean of access apply thin coat of lacquer


    Thanks Markspi. Did you see the youtube video posted up? That seems to be the way to do it. Just need some enamel paint, a brush and some paint thinner/remover.

    It really looks excellent in the video. Looking forward to giving it a go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,612 ✭✭✭bullets


    I would of thought people would have NOT wanted white lettering
    on their airsofts as it makes them look more fake and less like real steel.

    ~B


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    bullets wrote:
    I would of thought people would have NOT wanted white lettering
    on their airsofts as it makes them look more fake and less like real steel.

    ~B


    We're not talking "made in china" or "made by cyma" trades here...:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    I'd just do a test somewhere on the gun to make sure the thinners won't take the paint off you gun.

    The only other way I can think of doing it is to use some slow drying filler. Locktight is the only thing that comes to mind of the top of my head as it bonds with metal but I don't know if it comes in white. That no more holes stuff for filling in holes in walls might work to but that might just come lose over time (but I suppose you'll have a big tube of it).

    Yourmans way looks really good though.

    My M11 didn't comes with any markings. :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    My mac 11 is the KSC one which is ABS. So the plastic itself is coloured. Paint stripper shouldnt discolour it. Although, It may have some adverse effects on the plastic I'm not sure...

    So what mac 11 did you get then if it doesn't have trades? Cant be the KSC one. any chance of some piccys?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭IronWolf


    Use tipex (not the pen) and be quick to wipe off any excess with a semi-damp cloth.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    Well on closer inspection (biting) the gun is plastic. The only metal parts are the fold out stock, the barrel and strap holder thingy at the front.

    Its a kwa brand.

    I have the pictures ready but the damn cammera keeps turning off when i try to download.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    ScumLord wrote:
    Well on closer inspection (biting) the gun is plastic. The only metal parts are the fold out stock, the barrel and strap holder thingy at the front.

    Its a kwa brand.

    I have the pictures ready but the damn cammera keeps turning off when i try to download.

    ah right so it IS the same one I have.

    There should be markings under the ejection port..?And the Cobray symbol to the left of it..Then the safety has safe and fire markings..and then on the other side the semi and full auto has markings.

    And if you want to find a secret one, on the very front under the swivvly metal thing there's a little KWA logo. ;) (Might say KSC)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,789 ✭✭✭✭ScumLord


    Nope. No other marking other than fire selecter and safety. Not even the secret one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    ScumLord wrote:
    Nope. No other marking other than fire selecter and safety. Not even the secret one.

    That's weird. I'm looking around online and it says the KWA mac 11 has no trademarks as it was made for export to the US. KSC being the ones made for Japan.

    I must have been lucky and got a KSC one in my KWA box :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 747 ✭✭✭EyesOnly


    hmm what about them tippex pens ? (think lidl had them)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Right, checked my Mac and the hidden logo on the front and it does indeed say KSC.

    I wonder how that happened. I really have to fill these trades in now to show it off :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,518 ✭✭✭[--SC(+)PE--]


    if a tippex pens point is to wide then ya could just use some model acylic paint watered down a tad and wipe of the excess, should be extremely easy to do.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Dr_Pepper


    I tried this on my TM m4a1 today.
    God its hot.

    Used model car paint .. used silver as white looks too clean and stands out too much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Dr_Pepper wrote:
    I tried this on my TM m4a1 today.
    God its hot.

    Used model car paint .. used silver as white looks too clean and stands out too much.

    So it begins!

    We'll have to have a self painted trades pic thread :D


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Spitfire666


    next it will be painting on wear and tear marks.
    (silver paint on a large brush painted back and forth on paper until it stops painting the lightly brush the edges and raised areas.)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭bewildered


    You sound like you've already done this spitfire...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Spitfire666


    havn't done it with any AEG's as its not a look i'm going for. thats more for old style guns.
    Have done it lots on models and if you add brown to it after silver you can get great rust effects for the likes of flame throwers or burnt out cars.

    Also a brown base with black rubed on works great if making burnt wood effects for the likes of burnd doors or floorboards (great for games workshop fans )but thats off topic.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭bewildered


    Warhammer....NOOOOO. My wasted (depending on perspective) childhood. I swear I wasnt one of those kids.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Spitfire666


    bewildered wrote:
    Warhammer....NOOOOO. My wasted (depending on perspective) childhood. I swear I wasnt one of those kids.


    I was NEVER one of those kids, i used to love going in and making fun of the 20somthing year old "kids" and the real kids who "played" warhammer. but at the same time, i have always loved models with lots of detail and i have to admit having alot of warhammer for static dioramas that i plan to wall mount for a top down view once i eventualy finish them.

    It was always a rainy day hobby for me, not a game.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    I was NEVER one of those kids, i used to love going in and making fun of the 20somthing year old "kids" and the real kids who "played" warhammer. but at the same time, i have always loved models with lots of detail and i have to admit having alot of warhammer for static dioramas that i plan to wall mount for a top down view once i eventualy finish them.

    It was always a rainy day hobby for me, not a game.


    "I wasn't a geek, I swear!" ;)

    I was similar myself actually. Collected it about ten years ago. More so for the painting aspect. Tried playing it a few times but it wasn't really for me.

    Eventually sold it all when I was about 16 or 17 and needed cash. Kinda wish I hadn't actually.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭bewildered


    Still have mine...somewhere. Liked it for the conversion aspect, collecting bits and bobs, moulding different stances, changing minor aspects and thinking I was an artist. I like to modify, for example, I plan on making a glock with a 2 foot long banana clip hi-cap mag, with an extended battery attached to the side.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,323 ✭✭✭Spitfire666


    mine is still in my scene from war of the worlds (bedroom) in mostly finished models sitting in a half finished unpainted diorama of a ruined building that i decided would be interesting to make one night out of nowhere.

    have probably 20-30 figure which i bought and a load of old style of some alien things that aparently infect and destroy everything and have been updated so i got a bag load of older stuff free.

    it'll probably never get done.
    just something i liked to make and paint, similir to my airfix and die cast kits which are everywhere of model cars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,612 ✭✭✭bullets


    o1s1n wrote:
    "I wasn't a geek, I swear!" ;)

    I was similar myself actually. Collected it about ten years ago. More so for the painting aspect. Tried playing it a few times but it wasn't really for me.

    Eventually sold it all when I was about 16 or 17 and needed cash. Kinda wish I hadn't actually.

    I got every single issue of Lord of the Rings battle games in middle earth
    sitting in my attic sealed and never opened along with all the figures.
    I am NOT a dice-roller or a fan of Warhammer Gaming or its different flavours
    but I do appreciate the artwork and skills that go into the hobby.

    I cant stand the gaming aspect of it but when the Lord of the Rings Films came
    out and Gamesworkshop made the models I became an addict and now
    have an entire workshop and room covered in the things.
    Purely for model painting and building.
    (I dont do anything with them other than display them)

    Getting back on topic. Yep the Acrylic paint or enamel is would be good for doing the
    lettering. Tip-ex will turn a grubby greeny yellow after a while. I tried using it
    years ago instead of a white paint and did not get good results.

    ~B


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,021 ✭✭✭Hivemind187


    o1s1n wrote:
    "I wasn't a geek, I swear!" ;)

    I was similar myself actually. Collected it about ten years ago. More so for the painting aspect. Tried playing it a few times but it wasn't really for me.

    Eventually sold it all when I was about 16 or 17 and needed cash. Kinda wish I hadn't actually.


    The game would have been fun if it didnt take 2 sodding hours to set up, 30 minutes to play, 3 hours to argue out who actually one then 3 hours to put away again (including the time to find the bits that rolled under the sofa).

    The models do look kewl though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,021 ✭✭✭Hivemind187


    Fetch wrote:
    Model paint would probably do the trick.. the kind people use for miniature wargaming.. you could pick it up in a gamesworkship along with a small brush


    See the previous few posts.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 993 ✭✭✭ditpaintball


    If it is all metal, then try doing some thing like this:

    http://www.paintballer.ie/viewtopic.php?t=523


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    If it is all metal, then try doing some thing like this:

    http://www.paintballer.ie/viewtopic.php?t=523

    Oh wow! That digital pattern looks amazing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40,291 ✭✭✭✭Gatling


    Me thinks we have a new standard to which all paint jobs will be judged,
    excellent detail on the camo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭bewildered


    If anyone's still interested in this I found a youtube video of someone doing this quite well. He just covers the area with white paint and then wipes it off with white spirit. Seems to work rather well.
    http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=bjWxOPSm5Zo


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 207 ✭✭Hunter1100


    bewildered wrote:
    If anyone's still interested in this I found a youtube video of someone doing this quite well. He just covers the area with white paint and then wipes it off with white spirit. Seems to work rather well.
    http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=bjWxOPSm5Zo

    I posted a link to this vid on page one of this thread don't forget to watch both parts he makes it look easy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 100 ✭✭bewildered


    Beg pardon. Its an interesting idea, I'd be curious to try it with different colours, I think white is a bit 'too' clean sometimes. Perhaps black would be cool on a non-black weapon.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭kdouglas


    black on non-black would be a bit pointless, most non-black guns are either OD or grey, or occasionally there's wood grips and such, but they generally dont have markings. Unless..... you spray the whole gun sand first and then do black trades?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,595 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Well I finally got around to giving this a go. The markings on the Mac 11 are not nearly as deep as makings you'll see on the likes of the Thompson and most other pieces. To say it was difficult is an understatement! With every wipe to get rid of the smudged excess paint, the paint would also come out of the markings.

    As you can see, this really gave me trouble with the Cobray logo. The left side of the snake wiped away whenever I tried to clear the excess paint :mad:

    P9260409.jpg

    P9260413.jpg

    P9260414.jpg

    P9260415.jpg

    The safe and fire lines really are a lot whiter then the rest due to their added depth to take the paint. Can really see it in this photo.

    P9260417.jpg

    I'd like to give it another go, as it could be improved, but it's really not worth the effort. Took me about 5 attempts to get to that level alone! Not for the feint hearted at all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40,291 ✭✭✭✭Gatling


    actuly looks alright ,pretty cool im going to cheat going for a factory job on my M4 ,new body with markings in white already


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,414 ✭✭✭kdouglas


    o1s1n: that looks good, well done

    Gatling: stop stealing my ideas


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