What laquer to use on a kitchen worktop

GG66

We've jsut got our kitchen worktop installed. A neighbour had an elm tree sawn up in his shed for the last 3 years. So it's been cut planed and sanded. It's now glued in place.

We were going to use 2 pack lacquer to finish it. Anyone got any other suggestions? Obviously needs to be resistant to heat in case we ever as have to leave a saucepan down in an emergency and also water resistant around sink

JoeB-

Well, it's either the two pack like you say or else oil. Oil penetrates the surface nicely and gives a nice finish but it has to be redone quite often and can be hard work.

A two pack AC lacquer or polyurethane sits on the surface of the timber and can be scratched easily enough, if you are brushing on you could use a Yatch or flooring polyurethane varnish of some sort, should check for food safety first of course. 2 part lacquers are resistant to heat, alcohol and water... but not standing water I don't think.

You should really finish both sides, don't know if you will be able to do that now...

Cheers
Joe

GG66

thanks for the reply

You should really finish both sides, don't know if you will be able to do that now...

Why would you finish both sides? The under side will never be in contact with heat or water.

I could do the underside except where the counter is glued to cabinets but it would be a pain in the back as its already been glued down.

that said I've already put a lot of time into cutting, planing and sanding so may as well do the rest best possible.

carpainter

GG66 wrote:

thanks for the reply



Why would you finish both sides? The under side will never be in contact with heat or water.

For the same reason that a veneered or painted board should be finished on both sides- the finish on the other side acts as a "balancing veneer" and reduces the tendency of the board to cup. AFAIK solid wood counters (laminated beech and iroko) are generally oiled as the finish is food safe and easily refinished.

GG66

that makes sense, thanks