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Tips for Taping & Jointing

  • 17-07-2007 10:24am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 16


    Hi all,

    Does anybody have any tips on taping and jointing methods. I have knocked an internal block wall between kitchen and old utility room to create a larger kitchen. Dividing wall was tied in to inner leaf of cavity wall with existing plasterboard flush up to the (now demolished) block wall.

    My plan is to cut back the existing plasterboard to the first batton at each side. Install a new piece of plasterboard between the two battons and tape and joint, but not exactly sure of the methodology for carrying this out.

    I also plan to re-slab the entire ceiling as the existing ceiling has that old 80's lumpy effect (artex or something similar), then install spot lights. I plan on drilling trial holes in the existing celing to locate the exact joist positions and slab over followed by taping and jointing.

    Any ideas??

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,073 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    My advice is not to install downlighters which break into the ceiling space unless you have rooms above the kitchen. The downlighters break the 'insulation envelope' and cause drafts and loss of heat and such. You can't insulate above them (unless you get specific types that can disapate the residual heat - can't find them in Ireland) and you can't seal them either... You could go for IP66 rated enclosures, for bathrooms or such, but they are at a premium price and don't provide the same light output as the standard GU10 downlighters.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Daft_Dave wrote:
    I also plan to re-slab the entire ceiling as the existing ceiling has that old 80's lumpy effect (artex or something similar)
    I would jsut skim over it....or pay someone to do it.
    Daft_Dave wrote:
    then install spot lights. I plan on drilling trial holes in the existing celing to locate the exact joist positions
    You should be able to take up the floor boards to find the joists, you will probably need to if you are installing spots anyway.

    We decided on the number of spots required, planned where we wanted them and then stuck a few bradawls up in the required locations and investigated where they hit under the above floor.

    You only need to do this once or twice and then you can workout if will you hit the joist in each location.

    Note that our first "lighting up" of the new spots was rather disappointing as we only had 5 of them and the room was very dark.
    We now have ten and its great but I am sourcing CFL/LEDs as we speak.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,177 ✭✭✭sesswhat


    Taping and jointing info here.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16 Daft_Dave


    Excellent Chaps, thanks for the advice

    Dave


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Run the blade of your trowel/knife down all screw lines before starting, any proud screws will click.
    I used self adhesive tape which worked well.
    Avoid the powder type joint compounds only use Profin semi-lite from gyproc readymixed in the white buckets.
    It sands very easy and is easy to apply.


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