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engine prob

  • 18-06-2007 11:20am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 78 ✭✭


    hey guys
    i got a new pull start for a buggy i got from a friend the other day an it wouldnt pull so i eliminated some causes and am left with a possible seized piston.
    now my prob is a cant seem to get the head off the engine(cen nx-26) for a closer look.
    any advice.?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 982 ✭✭✭RC car fanatic


    maybe the threads on the head of the screws are gone


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 396 ✭✭zt-OctaviaN


    Cant seem to get the head off?

    Does you hex or screw driver fit are they just very tight?
    If very tight try heating the crankcase?

    Does the flywheel rotate with the glow plug out?
    more details!
    Nick


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 78 ✭✭corpseorourke


    ok sorry guys i should have wrote more down...
    ok as for the screws there fine i can take them out no probs but the haed still doesnt budge thats why im stumped.
    ye theres no glow plug in it and flywheeel is all good.
    thats all the extra stuff i think
    sorry bout the mix up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 396 ✭✭zt-OctaviaN


    Hmm ok if flywheel is making piston go up and down then all good so far!
    When your trying to pull the pull start make sure the piston is a BDC youll have a better run if its a new engine no good trying to pull the PS when piston at top youll end up just lift the car off the ground!
    Its the pullstart you need to take off for a look make sure you take note how it all goes back as theres a one way bearing that you must put back in the correct way round if you take it out.
    Keep looking!
    I dont have any exp with the Pull starts

    Anyone else?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,338 ✭✭✭hobie


    Is it ok to soak these engines, inside and out, with WD 40 and leave overnight? .... :confused:

    It's not a low cost engine is it? .... this one is marked up at 160.00 stg ...

    l-ceng70357.jpg


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 78 ✭✭corpseorourke


    ok thanks for the info il keep looking and report back soon.
    cheers!


    what would you class as a low cost engine?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,338 ✭✭✭hobie


    ok thanks for the info il keep looking and report back soon.
    cheers!
    what would you class as a low cost engine?

    To be honest I know $$$$$$$ all about these engines and didn't realize you could pay 240.00 yo yo's for one .... :rolleyes:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 29 NitroCruiser


    Hi,

    The engine looks like a CEN.
    WD40 is safe enough to use usually on a CEN. I have never had trouble with WD40 with my CEN .12 engine in my GX1.
    They are not cheap engines, especially the newer ones for the 75+MPH car they have out now.

    I read an article before that if you have an old engine you can revive it by soaking it in Nitro Fuel to loosen things up again but if your engine is siezed soaking it won't help there as you need to take it apart.

    Coolwings would be the guy to ask on this one I think.

    Cheers,
    NitroCruiser:D


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 3,455 Mod ✭✭✭✭coolwings


    .... I have never had trouble with WD40 with my CEN .12 engine in my GX1....
    Nitrocruiser has the "trouble free" CEN engine. One of my favourite engines IMHO. I have worked on very many of the 12s and they are as sweet as a nut. Until CEN brought out their 16 size which runs hotter.

    The CEN 16s and later models run hot. They often seize during "running-in" by beginners. I myself have personally unseized over 20 of the CEN 16s (where un-seizing was possible) for their owners.

    We saw plenty of them, including many that we at greenhobbymodel had not sold, because other shops customers whose CEN car seized the 2nd/3rd time, would talk with other CEN owners who got it from Green Hobby but who never had that problem. Then they would find their way to us looking for a "cure".
    A careful fuel choice for running-in was the key to the newer CEN.
    5% nitro fuel produced a situation that was curable with external heat, some force, and lubrication.
    16% nitro fuel produced a much harder seize. Maybe half could be freed out, and they had to be run-in again, to eliminate the tight spot produced by the seize.
    So the best fuels for the CEN 16 were Model Technics GX-5 for sport use and GX-10 for performance use, with GX-16 for competition, but at a cost in lifespan. The oils in MT GX blend are very tolerant of extreme heat.

    A few were so tight that we would test pull it in the shop, say "wow" to ourselves, and reach for the "CEN-Special" running-in fuel blend we had made up at the time. (Model Technics ingredients:2% nitro ,22% oil, 76% methanol). This fuel avoided the problem on even the tightest CEN engine until after they loosened up.

    The CEN TR4 (and later) model tendency to run a tad hot was significant in why Green Hobby & Model in Dublin switched their no 1 brand from CEN to CARSON cars 3 years ago. As far as I know, the car magazine reviewers neglected to mention this even though they must all have been aware of it during testing. No surprise there!

    After the run-in was completed there was no difficulty and the engine "tames down" nicely.

    Running hot is no problem for an experienced modeller, cooler glowplugs, less nitro, more oil, and a richer setting is required. Many performance engine will run hotter. But beginners can't cope and often get a seize through not having enough expertise. It has come up on these boards before a couple of times.

    BTW
    He never answered ZOcatviaN ... is the piston going up and down?
    Is it actually seized? A broken conrod is another reason why the piston will appear to jam.
    What nitro was it on? How hard a seize?
    If it's seized hard - expert help will be required, as using brute force will probably damage other parts inside the engine.

    Soaking in WD40 might help a "soft-seize" . After 2 days soak, re-lube with pariffin using a toothbrush, then try rotating the knurled flywheel with medium force (no more than that!). Too much force will break your conrod.
    :)


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