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My Comag SL55 is locked - any thoughts

  • 20-12-2006 11:08am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5


    Just acquired a Comage SL55 FTA Staellite Top Box. It was installed and working fine but when I flicked through the channels to see what was there it suddenly went blank. It says it is locked and appears to be stuck on Channel 323. I have tried everything I can think of to get it working again but it won't unlock. If anyone has a clue how I might unlock it I would be grateful:confused::confused:


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,314 ✭✭✭Talliesin


    Help Desk is for help with boards.ie itself. I've moved this to Satelite.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,476 ✭✭✭✭Ghost Train


    I think this might happen with a HD channel the box can't read
    Usually turning the power off at the back for a minutes should do it
    When you turn it on does it get stuck straight away on the channel, or if you change channel quickly can you pick a new channel?

    You can do a hard reset by holding the power button down and turning the switch on at the back, but I only ever had to do this when updating from bad firmware


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 Jimfriel


    I've tried the power off trick but no joy. Basically when I switch it back on it goes to the channel then locks. It then tries to change and eventually just says LOAD on the screen permanently.

    I could try the hard reset see if that works

    thnaks for your help.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,476 ✭✭✭✭Ghost Train


    The sl55 does have a known problem with the power supply failing. The capacitors get too hot and fail. This sounds a bit like that. I had to replace the capacitors a year ago.

    You could try updating the firmware, but you'll need a serial cable, computer and to download the software, not really that straight forward, if you can't get it sorted and it's under warrenty might be best to bring it back and get lidl to order you a replacement


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,108 ✭✭✭mjsmyth


    Do you have any info on replcing these capacitors or what I should look for (parts wise).

    I have a spare Comag hanging round that I would like to use for audio.

    thanks.

    mj


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,476 ✭✭✭✭Ghost Train


    mjsmyth wrote:
    Do you have any info on replcing these capacitors or what I should look for (parts wise).

    I have a spare Comag hanging round that I would like to use for audio.

    thanks.

    mj

    it's basically the capacitors on the power supply board, i know there used to be a website with the details, if i find it I'll point you towards it, otherwise i can take a photo of the board and show you what to replace. I think I replaced the two 220uf ones with two 220uf capacitors of a slightly higher voltage rating. If you examine the capacitors you might even see them bulging on top. You just need to unsolder the old capacitors and solder in the new ones which might be tighter fitting. No guarantees it's the exact same problem of course but i wouldn't be surprised. And make sure you plug the thing out first, there is one larger capacitor inside too which might hold a bit of charge can't remember the rating, so maybe short/discharge it first.

    edit:the website is gone but found some info I saved
    Posted by Peter (86.40.9.240) on February 14, 2006 at 21:08:19:
    In Reply to: Re: Re: Re: SL55 dead with power LED flashing posted by Peter on January 24, 2006 at 01:19:39:

    : : I still haven't managed to figure out what the cause is. The different rails on the secondary side of the psu are pulsing, and also their is a faint "tweaking" noise coming from the PSU which accompanies the pulsations. I found one capacitor that had gone low in value on the secondary side, but nothing else awry. This PSU uses what appears to be an optocoupler to manage the regulation of the PSU, but again I could not find anything wrong. It would also appear that it is impossible to get a full circuit diagram for this PSU. Grrrrrrrr!


    : The LED flashing and noise from the PSU imply that the PSU is overloaded. The PSU is trying to establish a voltage, failing and retrying. (In my opinion)


    : I suspect disconnecting the RF cable will allow the PSU to come up to voltage. It could be moisture out at the LNB. I'm a novice these are just my ramblings.


    : I'm having similar problems. Is there a difinative answer to the "LOAD A" problem?


    Follow up to my own post...


    I opened the unit and discovered that two electrolytics, (2200mf 10v), on the PSU were swollen. There was also a ticking sound coming from the PSU about once every 2 seconds. I tried to locate the sound but found nothing.


    I pulled out the electrolytics and measured them, one measured 1.5mf, the other 400mf. I replaced them with new ones, 2200mf 35v. The cans were bigger but I managed to fit them in.


    The problems I had disappeared.


    The power supply is a "switch mode" type. You must be extra careful when working on switch mode power supplies. Innocent looking components can have high voltages on them.


    The power supply tends to get quite warm, electrolytics do not like heat. One of the capacitors is right beside a heat sink... Not a great design...


    The ticking noise was gone after I put the thing back together. I think it just happens when the power supply is not loaded.


    The unit has been running fine for the last 4 hours so hopefully everything is sorted. (until the new capacitors clap out)


    Have fun!


    Peter


    I probably changed both changed the 2 220uf capacitors and the 2 2200uf capacitors when I was doing it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5 Jimfriel


    Thanks for your help. I restarted with the power button held and everything seesm fine - for now!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,108 ✭✭✭mjsmyth


    Many thanks for that info!.

    mj


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32,417 ✭✭✭✭watty


    Warning, Danger Will Robinson.

    A PSU (Power Supply Unit) must be unplugged from mains.

    There are lethal voltages for a while after unplugging. Especially on some capacitors.

    Fire or explosion hazard exists if incorrect type or reversed insertion of a capacitor occurs.

    Unsuitable soldering irons can damage the circuit board and/or parts.

    Unsuitable solder will fail or the flux cause corrosion. If the board is RoHS, then lead free solder should be used. If it used leaded solder, then leaded solder should be used. Separate irons are needed as contamination of lead free solder by leaded solder can cause solder joint failure.

    Do not ever use a gas powered iron on a circuit board, they are for "tinning" repairs to metal work or for soldering connectors.


    If in doubt see a qualified person to do the work for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 379 ✭✭pjq


    There is another problem with SL55 , it cant handel channels with an excessive no. of audio channels . There is an EU channel using +-25 audio channels . It might be worthwhile deleting the offending channel.
    If this is the problem , disconnect the "lnb in cable " and switch off/on and then delete the channel.

    PJQ

    If it's a capacitor issue , Comag offer a 3 yr guarantee and I got mine fixed at a place in Tallaght after I called Lidl and Comag called me back .


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