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pocket hole joinery

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  • 11-12-2006 12:13am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 55 ✭✭


    anybodygot any thoughts or experience of this system. I'vejust got a PROJECT BOOK by DANNY PROULX who is very well known in the woodworking fraterinety by all accounts. Some of the builds look really well and it seems an easy system to use ,especially for me that is not too good at joints.He has made lovely pieces and by useing plugs from different timber sets them off really well.Has anybody used it yet I would love to hear your views. By all accounts it's not too expencive either.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭JoeB-


    Hi
    I use a lot of pocket holes. They are quick, strong and easy to do. I use a jig available from Axminster which is good, I have drilled thousands of holes and the bushings remain in good condition with no sloppiness. The jig can be quickly adjusted to center the pocket on timber from 1/2 inch to about 2 inches. I use regular 4x30 pan head screws (on 3/4 inch stock) rather than the square drive screws that are commonly used. The square drive screws have a very tight fit on the screwdriver bit but pozi2 screws are 99% as good and are much cheaper.

    Plugs are available to buy but are expensive in my opinion, I don't know how they could be made at home... In most situations the pockets can be placed on a mostly unseen surface...

    The fact that the screws are driven in at an angle means that the pieces can be dragged very slightly out of position when the screws are tightened but this can be overcome or ignored.

    I use a lot of solid pine with which screws work very well so pocket holes are a good choice, maybe less so with hardwoods.

    Cheers
    Joe


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 148 ✭✭carpainter


    I've used pocket screwing quite often also, having come across it in an "Fine Homebuilding" article by Taunton. However I don't have a jig, I've only ever done it freehand using a spade bit and some basic marking out. When fitting a kitchen I've used it to add in extra stiffening panels in sink base units etc. where these carcasses can often be quite weak and flimsy. I use regular pozi screws. Most recently I've purchased a biscuit jointer so I'll probably use the pocket screwing technique a lot less, although the latter does allow you to pull stuff up good and tight without any clamping of course. Trend also do a pocket screw jig but the Axminster is probably a better bet on cost.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 583 ✭✭✭MT


    What's the difference between the pocket hole technique and other ways in which you'd screw a joint together? Also, there seems to be a lot of snobbery over this method on other forums I've looked through with people complaining that it's not 'proper' joinery? Does anyone understand the reasoning behind such remarks? I mean, it seems to involve wood, screws and a screwdriver so how could it not be joinery:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 148 ✭✭carpainter


    I think the purists see joinery as involving actual joints cut (by hand or power tools) and assembled where there is an element of skill in terms of marking out, cutting and assembly. Pocket screw joinery is basically butt joints held together by screws. I think it's fine for carcass or paint grade work, it has it's place.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 55 ✭✭boysie39


    Haveing read the replys and noted who posted them I have taken it as a positive for this form of jointing , I have a KREG SYSTEM on its way .As much as I'd like to produce lovely joints its too late for me to begin learning how although i'll keep trying for now to justify the expence and time i've spent I need to make that foot stool and phone table that were promised .So pocket holes it will be . Thanks to thoes that made up my mind ,will keep you posted .HAPPY XMAS.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 689 ✭✭✭JoeB-


    MT wrote:
    What's the difference between the pocket hole technique and other ways in which you'd screw a joint together?

    Pocket hole screws are screws driven in at a 15deg angle, for example from below a shelf into the side of a carcass. 'Normal' screwing would be done from the outside of the carcass and screwed right through the side piece into the shelf. A screw like this could be left visible and countersunk flush to the side, or else could be covered somehow, either by using flat plugs bought in or made using a plug cutter or else using dome head plugs that are then a 'feature'. Dome head or mushroom plugs available from Lee Valley in Canada at a great price (besides shipping). All plugs would require a hole of the correct diameter to be pre drilled (in the side piece).

    Pocket holes can be made on a drill press using a home made jig and two diameter drill bits which can be difficult, done freehand like carpainter suggested but this would require skill (and the angle must be greater than 15deg) or else a jig could be used and a two step drill bit... i.e 10mm for most of the drill bit with a 4mm diameter tip, tip 10 to 12mm in length.

    I suppose pocket hole plugs could be made using a bandsaw but it would be difficult and would require circular rods stuck into a pocket hole and then cut flush, I have often wondered how they are mass produced.

    I don't consider pocket holes to be high end joinery but there aren't many options for attaching shelves that don't involve screws or mechanical fasteners of some kind. Americans commonly use dados which is a groove cut into the inside of the carcass and the shelf slides into it...

    Cabinet doors and drawers would be made using 'proper' joinery, i.e rail and stile doors and dovetailed drawers, both of these use only glue.


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