FS: Creusen Slow-Speed Grinder

Alun

Hi,

I know this isn't strictly the place for 'for sale' ads, but this is a fairly specialized item, and I guess it'd get lost on adverts.ie.

I'm selling my Creusen HP7500TS slow-speed bench grinder. This isn't your typical Chinese made €20 from B+Q job, but a high quality European made piece of machinery. It runs at half the speed of typical bench grinders and has wider wheels than normal making it especially suitable for wood turners.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Creusen-HP7500TS-Powerline-Grinder-(Slow-Speed)-22331.htm

I'll also throw in a diamond wheel dresser, and a Sorby grinding jig (basic only, without the fingernail jig) all for only €150. The grinder alone cost the equivalent of €230+ just over 2 years ago roughly, but is in perfect condition.

PM me if you're interested.

BTW, the reason I'm selling is that I bought one of these yesterday

http://www.robert-sorby.co.uk/proedge.htm

Stanirish

BTW, any harm to ask you what you paid for the proedge ??

boysie39

Alun ,I would gladly have taken off your hands for that money but I have just this morning got a tormek1206 delivered from Axminster but with all thoes attchments it would be a snip. Best of luck with new system. Maybe if you get a few weeks of useing it you will share your reasons for changeing.Looking forward to your advice.

Alun

Stanirish wrote:

BTW, any harm to ask you what you paid for the proedge ??

The basic ProEdge was €330, plus all the jigs except the fingernail jig (which I already had from my Sorby jig) came to €60, so €390 altogether. You can also get the ProEdge Plus which comes all the jigs including the fingernail jig which I think came in at €413 or something like that. Those were special prices at the Sorby demo day at Richard Gough's shop, so normal prices may be a little higher.

Alun

boysie39 wrote:

Alun ,I would gladly have taken off your hands for that money but I have just this morning got a tormek1206 delivered from Axminster but with all those attachments it would be a snip. Best of luck with new system. Maybe if you get a few weeks of using it you will share your reasons for changing. Looking forward to your advice.

I too thought about the Tormek, and if I was doing any other kind of woodwork other than just woodturning I might have gone for it, but it's a bit of overkill just for turning tools which really don't need to be "scary sharp". Plus I'd still have to have kept my grinder for the occasional re-shape .. a Tormek's just to slow for that.

So far (only two days!) I'm happy with it. Main reason for getting it was that some tools, the skew especially, only works really well with a flat as possible grind which you just can't get on a 6" wheel grinder. Big bowl gouges too suffer from the same thing. It also has the big advantage that you never have to dress a wheel ever again (!), and don't have to continually adjust your jigs to compensate for wheel wear.

MT

Oooh, lovely toy that Proedge, I'm envious. We need a green faced emoticon for this forum.

Alun, I was going to ask you something about that Proedge essentially being a motorised version of Scary Sharp until you mentioned Tormek being more like that. But I'll ask anyway, is it possible to get belts as fine as 2000/2500 grit for this linisher thus making it a motorised version of sharpening with paper on glass?

For wood turning do you need to sharpen a secondary bevel as is often recommended in other types of woodwork? Or do you just stick to the one?


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Boysie, does the Tormek do all the sharpening right up to the final polish or do you still need to go to fine bench stones/stropping/buffing as with your average grinder

Alun

MT wrote:

Oooh, lovely toy that Proedge, I'm envious. We need a green faced emoticon for this forum.

You'll just have to talk nicely to Santa

Alun, I was going to ask you something about that Proedge essentially being a motorised version of Scary Sharp until you mentioned Tormek being more like that. But I'll ask anyway, is it possible to get belts as fine as 2000/2500 grit for this linisher thus making it a motorised version of sharpening with paper on glass?

I'm not sure .. the finest belts Sorby provide are 120grit in Aluminium Oxide, Zirconium Oxide or Ceramic. I've no idea if it's a standard size, probably not, but you could ask them if they can get hold of finer grits. They're quite friendly folks there. I also guess there are people out there that'll make you a belt out of whatever you want to custom sizes, albeit it at a price.

For woodturning 120 grit is just fine for normal touching up, and I can slip on a 60 grit belt quite easily for the occasional re-profiling job.

For wood turning do you need to sharpen a secondary bevel as is often recommended in other types of woodwork? Or do you just stick to the one?

Just the one usually. About the only time I'll grind a secondary bevel is on large (1/2"+) bowl gouges, where the trailing edge can sometimes drag and burnish or scratch the wood behind it when cutting the inside of a bowl. So I just relieve the back edge a wee bit 'free hand'. The problem shouldn't be so great with a flat grind from the Proedge, but on a slightly worn down 6" wheel, it can be quite pronounced.

Alun

FYI: I've just sold the grinder to another baords user, Fingalian.

Fingalian

and its a lovely bit of kit, thanks.

boysie39

I havent got around to useing it as yet but from looking at the DVD you sharpen and then use the leather stropping wheel attached.A bit like the old cutthroate razors of years gone bye.Of course there is a compound paste for the leather wheel.I'm no expert at this but I tryed it on an old chisel that was in an old box and had been used for everything and it came up a dream. Ihave to get a jig for planer and thicknesser blades and then I will be in buisness keep you upto date. boysie39

MT

I wasn't sure about the whole leather strop thing when I made one up a few months ago. I got two strips of leather upper from a shoe repare shop and tacked these on top of each other onto an oak base 13" long. The smooth face of the leather is upwards and the tacks are over the edge and not on the stropping surface. I don't know if this is the correct type of leather but if it is do you think that compound paste would work on this manual strop?