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ESB incoming fuse size?

  • 13-10-2006 10:40am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭


    How do I know wat size ESB fuse in my house?

    Casing says 60/80A SERIES II


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 888 ✭✭✭themole


    I think its 64 A.

    Why do you need to know?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    Came across the post about two electric showers and some sort of electrical interlock.

    We have two showers on seperate circuits but no interlock.

    Casing actually says

    60/80A SERIES 7
    TYPE II


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I think you're looking at the grey casing close to the meter. Irrespective of what rating this fuse is, your max current will be determined by the main fuse on your fuse board. On newer fuse boards there is usually a screw type fuse close to the main switch nestled among all the other circuit breakers. The rating of this fuse is the one thats important.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 39,900 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Do you ever have both showers on at the same time?
    Any problems with this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    Its possible that there are no noticeable problems with both running together- but its worth checking the showers ratings. Also if any other appliances (electric oven, electric heaters, immersion etc.) are on its possible that this may overload the wiring causing the wiring to get hot - which may not necessarily blow a fuse or trip a switch.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    Grey casing near meter. Correct

    Mainswitch 63A, Screw in fuse 50A I think, I'll check tomorrow.

    G.. forbid that we should miss Pat Kenny :)

    I don't think the two showers were ever on together.

    I'm trying to find the rating on the shower. Label on outside say 9.5

    Inside 6VA ???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 840 ✭✭✭micks


    If you want to use 2 electric showers you need one of these priority/non-priority switches

    Shower Switch

    Doesnt have to be this make but they'll set you back €200 ish

    You might get away with it but at some stage you'll get caught out


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    The trip switch for my shower is 40 amps. If both your trips for your two showers combined are higher than your main fuse/switch then you should never run then at the same time. My main switch is rated at 63 amps. My house was rewired to the relevant RECI standards last year. I didnt check the fuse as to do so I would have had to cut all power to the house.................. and the reset all the clocks!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    micks, thanks for the link.

    crosstownk, "and the reset all the clocks!!"

    Tell me about it!:)

    We need the two showers; one is down stairs for my Ma for her Carer who comes in twice a day to help her wash.

    I'll prob go with shower priority relay. Is the wiring difficult?

    The rating label in one shower is tiny and upside down. I can't figure out the wattage from it :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,595 ✭✭✭johnnyrotten


    63 Amp


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 840 ✭✭✭micks


    If you're going down that road think about which you want priority or non-priority Switch
    with priority Shower A has priority regardless

    and with non -priority its first come first served
    I reckon priority is cheaper (less comlicated),another thing is these are quite big - roughly the size of a single row consumer unit.
    Straight forward enough to wire/install power in and 2 feeds out .I have only used ABB in the few cases i've used them but prob all similar .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    The size doesn't matter, my electrics are all in a purpose built cupboard. I'll Google for AAB.

    Or ABB even :)


    micks, do you have a part number?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,235 ✭✭✭lucernarian


    Newbie question: Is there any point to having a 100A rated consumer unit if the ESB fuse is 63A?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,664 ✭✭✭rogue-entity


    We still have an antiquated electric setup. We have one fuseboard for all our lights and another for all our sockets. We have one MCB which does the washing machine, dishwasher and a 16A tumbledryer. We have no RCD on the sockets. The ESB service fuse is 63A, the same as our Main Switch and Main fuse. We have three RCDs for our three showers. We have never had any problems running all three at the same time (probably because they are never on full power).

    And, the ESB typically fit 63A service fuses unless the customer has an 80A "enhanced supply" or 3 phase which does 100A. In the UK they use supply 80A and 100A only IIRC.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    Newbie question: Is there any point to having a 100A rated consumer unit if the ESB fuse is 63A?

    It would be the fuse or circuit breaker that is important. If it is 100 Amp rated, your ESB fuse will blown first.

    It may be that your consumer unit SWITCH is rated 100 Amp


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭charlie@w.d


    We still have an antiquated electric setup. We have one fuseboard for all our lights and another for all our sockets. We have one MCB which does the washing machine, dishwasher and a 16A tumbledryer. We have no RCD on the sockets. The ESB service fuse is 63A, the same as our Main Switch and Main fuse. We have three RCDs for our three showers. We have never had any problems running all three at the same time (probably because they are never on full power).

    And, the ESB typically fit 63A service fuses unless the customer has an 80A "enhanced supply" or 3 phase which does 100A. In the UK they use supply 80A and 100A only IIRC.

    RCDs guard against serious electric shock in the event of an electrical fault. They detect 'leaking' electricity from a circuit (which can occur when a cable is damaged for example) and respond by disconnecting the electricity supply from the circuit.
    Its a regulation to have a rcd on sockets, if you were say cutting the lawn with an electric lawn mower and u accidently nicked the cable and caught the cable with your hand u would probably be killed, an rcd protects u from this kinda stuff


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,235 ✭✭✭lucernarian


    It would be the fuse or circuit breaker that is important. If it is 100 Amp rated, your ESB fuse will blown first.

    It may be that your consumer unit SWITCH is rated 100 Amp
    What I'm wondering is if there's any point at all getting a 100A consumer unit/MCB, when the ESB supply will simply cut out at around 63A.

    Why do the ESB use smaller consumer fuses than they do in the UK? And I don't even know how our house is earthed either.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 118 ✭✭charlie@w.d


    The standard consumer unit comes with a 63amp neozed fuse, its stupid to get a higher fuse than the esb fuse it just doesnt make any sense. I'm pretty sure its also a regulation to have the consumer unit smaller or equal to the esb fuse.
    Is there a reason to why u need a 100amp fuse in your consumer unit?
    I'm not sure why the esb's fuse is smaller than the uk's equivalent, but i'd have a guess, its because they never bothered to change it or maybe cause their grid is nearly overloaded.
    how old is your house regarding the earth?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    We still have an antiquated electric setup. We have one fuseboard for all our lights and another for all our sockets. We have one MCB which does the washing machine, dishwasher and a 16A tumbledryer. We have no RCD on the sockets. The ESB service fuse is 63A, the same as our Main Switch and Main fuse. We have three RCDs for our three showers. We have never had any problems running all three at the same time (probably because they are never on full power).
    If I was you I'd be inclined to get a rewire - just for safety. Not cheap - but worth considering. I don't think 3 showers at once and other consumers at the same time will go for ever without eventually causing a problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    micks wrote:
    If you want to use 2 electric showers you need one of these priority/non-priority switches

    Shower Switch

    Doesnt have to be this make but they'll set you back €200 ish

    You might get away with it but at some stage you'll get caught out

    Trying to follow the circuit. If there is current flowing through Priority Switch then Contactor Normally Open, so second shower wont work.

    How does Conrol MCB fit in to picture?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 840 ✭✭✭micks


    I dont have an ABB no. to answer Q above.\but most wholesaler should have one

    If control mcb trips it looks like it will then only allow one shower to work if there is a prob with control circuitry/contactor.
    The RCBO would provide leakage/overload protection for power cabling/showers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 840 ✭✭✭micks


    We still have an antiquated electric setup. We have one fuseboard for all our lights and another for all our sockets. We have one MCB which does the washing machine, dishwasher and a 16A tumbledryer. We have no RCD on the sockets. The ESB service fuse is 63A, the same as our Main Switch and Main fuse. We have three RCDs for our three showers. We have never had any problems running all three at the same time (probably because they are never on full power).

    And, the ESB typically fit 63A service fuses unless the customer has an 80A "enhanced supply" or 3 phase which does 100A. In the UK they use supply 80A and 100A only IIRC.
    One of life's little mysteries!
    Fuses can take an overload for a fair amount of time - i'm sure someone knows the specifics, i dont know exactly but i know fuses can take a fair overload for a long time
    MCB's are to protect the cable could still be correct ie 4sq and 32 A MCB,
    No excuse for not having leakage protection especially if MCB not fuses as ELCB's are around for donkeys!
    Never heard of a Tumble dryer that cant be plugged into standard socket.

    History has shown that a 63A supply is more than adequate - it can be upgraded if requested to 80A
    3 Phase supplies are generally industrial/commercial and hence teh 100A supplies


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    micks wrote:
    I dont have an ABB no. to answer Q above.\but most wholesaler should have one

    If control mcb trips it looks like it will then only allow one shower to work if there is a prob with control circuitry/contactor.
    The RCBO would provide leakage/overload protection for power cabling/showers

    Ok. That makes sense.

    Thanks for all the info


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 252 ✭✭GreySquirrel


    Update.

    I got a Eberle Lastabwurfrelais, i.e. a Eberle load shedding relay on eBay. With that and a contactor I have set up the two showers so that the two will not work together.

    With a switch fuse they take up about 10 ways. I'll need a new enclousure for it.


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