Cabling through the walls and design query

gqma0

Hi.

Hope I can get some help here. I've been searching quite a lot on the web for a while now


My question is more about designing, DIY cabling and electric connections.

1) I'm in IT now but I've studied electricity and electronics. Is putting cables through the wall a hard job to do if I'd want to do it myself ? Can someone advise ? Could I pull them through the ceiling ?
2) Ceiling: same question if I'd want to fit an electric projector screen myself. I can't use the wall as this one will be used for the LCD TV, so I need a projector screen

Here's the equipment:
- AV receiver Pioneer VSX916
- Speakers Tannoy EFX 5.1
- Sky Digibox PACE DS430N
- DVD Philips DVP5140

- Scart Video Buffer (JS Technology)
- Projector Infocus IN76 (We're not looking at High def programmes in the near future but I'd wanted to make it future proof)
- LCD TV Sharp Aquos 37P55E

Here's my design (The simplest I can think of)
http://image22.webshots.com/23/1/24/15/2446124150030696963TRMMXG_ph.jpg

We have a square room of 25m2 and all the equipment will be below the projector, the LCD TV will be placed on the other side of the wall with the 3 Tannoy speakers (so there will be 3 long audio cables and 1 long video cable)
Projector will be used mainly to watch DVD and sometimes Sports events, so I'll be using component connections for DVD and s-video for TV programmes.

3) I'm daisy chaining the DVD to the satellite receiver going into the video buffer and I found a 15m scart cable (PRO SCART Oxy Free FLAT Cable HIGH END 15m) from ebay that would do the job but is this the best I could do ? What advantage would it be to use a scart-component to watch regular TV ?




Thanks for your advices.

Cheers
Gaetan

Sparky

Chasing walls isn't as hard of a job as it sometimes looks like.
You can do it two ways.
Use a hammer drill on chisel mode with a chisel bit to chase the walls where required. It works, but can take longer and creates a lot of dust and rubble.
Option two, is to try and rent for the day a wall chaser. I have used HILTI models that come with a VAX to suck up the dust. Option 2 is the easiest option by far and makes the channels in the wall a lot nicer and cleaner.

When you plan to install your cables, use flat wavin trunking. As plastering over cables when in the wall is not very good practice.

Your link doesn't work so I don't have a clue as to where you have everything planned. In certain instances you can use the ceiling to feed cables across the room and if the floor is raised, you can also go underneath the floor.

Is the PJ going on the ceiling also? If so you also have two options.
1. Knock holes in the ceiling and try to drill joists (depending on how they run) and fish the required cables to the PJ and screen.
2. Lift a few floorboards in the room above and fish from there.

Also remember, in the case of getting a local power source for an electric screen, don't use the lights circuit. I have seen this done. Lights are not protected by an RCD.

Scart has a better picture on regular TV as the red green and blue channels are transmitted independently of each other.
Svideo transmits brightness and colour in separate signals

gqma0

Sparky-s,

Thank you so much. I'm really impressed.

So I guess I will go with the wall chaser as it seems less messy. Your idea of using flat wavin trunking is brilliant and makes it nice and nitty.

I already planned to use the the local power source for the electric screen and also for the projector.

PJ is going on the ceiling just over the fireplace and I don't have much distance between the units shelves beside the fireplace, so I can drill holes and fish from there. Unfortunately the design of the room doesn't allow me to put the LCD and Projector screen over the fireplace, so that'll have to be on the other side of the room.

regarding the S-video input, this is for the projector to watch matches in SD as I'm already using the Component from the DVD. In the future, I can get HD programmes and will put in a HDMI cable. this is the best I can think of for now.

The LCD TV will have SCART feeding

I'll try and upload my design again as it failed to upload with boards.ie

Of course, this is gonna take time and effort (2 kids in low age), but once done, I will post pictures.

Once again, thank you so much for your valuable advices.
Cheers

Gaetan

gqma0

Here's the design

https://us.v-cdn.net/6034073/uploads/attachments/24533/34420.jpg

Sparky

Well just make sure the local power source is controlled by an RCD and is at least 2.5 sq mm cable and protected by a 20amp fuse/MCB (circuit breaker)

Light circuits are wired in 1.5 sq mm and are only protected by a 10amp breaker and are not on the RCD.

Main thing to do is when chasing your walls, allow for the power to the PJ and screen.
IMO, it would be best to install 2 flush 13amp switched spurs wherever you desire, for the power control of the PJ and screen.

When you rent the wall chaser, you will find it a dream, you will have all the heavy work done with that in 1/5th of the time.

pH

Be careful when using the word SCART it's just a connector/cable layout capable of carrying RGB/S-video/Composite video, stereo audio and some WS switching pins.

If you're going to watch much sky on in then a PJ with an RGB Scart would be nice (panasonic AE900).

One other option is to buy an amp that does video conversion. If you're not going HD/HDMI then there are plenty of amps that will convert s-video/composite to component. This means that all audio/video plugs into the back of your receiver and a single component cable runs to the PJ. You switch devices on the A/V receiver and it switches audio and video at the same time.

The 'problem' in this solution are:

You need 2 component video outputs - dual component outputs are only found on the top end receivers.

And ...

Sky's best picture is RGB and no A/V receiver handles this.

And ...

All this is assuming that the sharp TV takes component.

You can convert RGB to component using one of these : http://www.keene.co.uk/multi.php?mycode=APT1E
(this handles Sky nicely - that's the best picture you can get)

Then you could consider taking the component output from the receiver and either using a switch to go between TV and PJ or using a component amplifier (that feeds both devices at once)

edited to add - JS tech do an equivalent component splitter to the RGB/scart one you mentioned

gqma0

Thanks Sparky-S

2.5mm is the one to use and I'll be wall chasing from local power source in the living room.

Hi pH, I meant using RGB through SCART for the LCD. Now that you've reminded me, the Pioneer VSX916 receiver has 3 component inputs. I could use these but I'd need an RGB to Component converter (My receiver doesn't handle video conversion)
http://www.js-technology.com/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=36&osCsid=1f3554d26e6bb722c6535d64018c846b

and a component video buffer to feed to LCD and Projector
http://www.js-technology.com/product_info.php?products_id=50&osCsid=1f3554d26e6bb722c6535d64018c846b

Then the thing is that I'd also need a 15m. Component cable to go from the receiver to the LCD at the other side of the room and that would be quite expensive.

I'll have to rethink my connection setup

Thanks
Gaetan

ZENER

How old is your house ? Are the walls not dry-lined ? If so then running cables is simple enough and the device mentioned above isn't required.

It's also permissable in certain circumstances to use a lighting circuit to supply small loads up to 5 amps via a 5 Amp round pin socket or spur. However the danger is that if the appliance is connected to another appliance which is connected to an RCD or RCBO it may cause tripping.

There is also no need to run 2.5 T+E to the projector or other appliances. Place a fused/switched spur beside a local 13A socket put a 5 amp fuse in it and use 3x 1.5 flex to supply the appliances - much easier to manipulate - use inline connectors at the appliances. The purpose of the fuse is to protect the cable not the appliance.

For the projector and electric screen, which are mounted in the ceiling, check if there a convenient socket nearby in an upstairs room. Another convenient cable conduit is coving which is hollow.

ZEN

Sparky

you can use clix fittings on the ceiling also if you dont want to use an inline connection. It allows for easy removal aswell.

Flex is grand to use. In many cases fishing solid cables is alot easier than flexable, but that's from my own personal experience. I would rather have the power fed in solid core cable than in flex.

If your going to use inline connectors, make sure they are in an OBO box, or any other type of covered conector box.

I'm only assuming the walls are solid, there was no mention of either solid or plasterboard.

ZENER

I was thinking more along these lines.

Clix is a good idea, esthetically more pleasing too.

Be sure to use the correct size fuse for the flex used.

ZEN

gqma0

The house is a few weeks old. Not sure about dry-lined though. The use of clix fitting is excellent. 2 sides of the room are solid and I hope this is not an issue with the wall chaser as I'll have to pull cables for the speakers.

Khanis

What's this Clix thing you fellas are talking about? Never heard of it before - is it some kind of conduit?

Sparky

Any electrical wholesaler will sell them.

They are used alot in commercial and industrial areas for easy removal of light fittings for servicing.

The cosmetic look is like a pendant rose, but once the cover is unscrewed all that is required is to either pull the block to the left/right or twist it 25 degrees to unclick it. No screwdriver is required to touch an electrical connection. Quite simply the lighting circuit that they are used on does not have to be switched off to remove the light fitting, thus saving any inconvenience.




Another name is 'plug in ceiling rose'