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Photos (C&C).....and questions

  • 21-07-2006 12:55am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭


    Got my Canon 350D. A big step up from my other small little digital camera but i'm loving it. Had to go out as the sun went down to get a few pics in as you can see below.

    I noticed the comp for Long exposure shots, was hoping i'd have my cam by the 20th to enter but was not to be. I've been trying to learn how to do say a 1 min exposure, in which you see movement of the object in the pic or using long exposures to get good effects with water as they explain here. Could anyone please explain how to do a one min exposure with the 350D because as much as i've tried altering Tv for the shutter speed or Av for Apeture these effects do not seem to be working. How do you start and end the 30 second expsosure. Is there some option to say start exposure and end? Be nice i'm just a beginnner!


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 36,634 ✭✭✭✭Ruu_Old


    Nice ones there, good start to your new camera, hope you enjoy it. :) Keep experimenting, I'm after that same camera when I have the money.
    They have a nice copper glow to them and the last one of the two birds is interesting. Thanks for sharing and keep posting.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,150 ✭✭✭FreeAnd..


    Hey YeAh!, as far as im aware the longest exposure is 30 seconds on the 350D - this is the lowest that the shutter speed will go. After that you need to use bulb which will allow you to expose for as long as you like by keeping the button held down. Im not sure if you can set this as a two part action or if getting a remote would be the best option.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 432 ✭✭CONMIKE12


    Hi Yeah.Some good shots there,especially the first one.Well done.As far as i am aware,for long exposures,you need to set the camera to manual then work from there.Setting the aperature and shutter speeds to the correct settings for what you wamt while still getting a correct exposure reading on the light meter in the camera.In manual mode,at least on the 20d,after you hit 30 seconds,it goes to "bulb" mode, a throwback term to the old days of photography.My understanbding of this mode is that it starts exposing when you press the shutter release down,and doessn't stop till you take your finger back off the button.However,aparently,it is best to use this with a cable release to avoid any camera shake.In this way you can expose for longer thjan 30 seconds.I have never used this myself so my info could be off a bit,but I'm sure the others on here will correct any misinformation I might have given.Welcome to the wonderful world of Slr's,keep snapping,and keep posting your pics.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭YeAh!


    Thanks very much guys, I'll keep trying some 30 sec exposures and hopefully i'll get the hang of it :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 264 ✭✭mtracey


    like the first one


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 97 ✭✭kcphoto


    Hi,

    I have used the bulb setting with the remote release and it works fine.
    I use the actual canon remote switch cable as I had it for a previous camera .
    Expensive to buy (around €60) though I suspect you'll get one on ebay cheaper.
    The nice thing (with the canon one anyway) about it is that you can lock the shutter switch in place, rather than having to hold it down and just unlock it when you want to close the shutter again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 69 ✭✭antifuse


    Congrats on the new camera, you've gotten some great colours - especially hard to do around sunset.

    A few small criticisms, which are really small complaints on otherwise lovely shots:

    - On the first one, it could use a TINY touch of straightening I think? The horizon just looks a degree or 2 crooked.
    - The second one, maybe a bit less water at the bottom of the frame? I think if you had shot it with the birds (ducks?) lower in the frame, it could have come out a bit nicer.
    - The one with the ducks, could have been improved if both ducks were in focus, or just the front duck. Having the big out-of-focus duck in the front of the shot is a bit distracting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,370 ✭✭✭Fionn


    good shots!

    yeah i'd agree about the depth of field in the third pic sort of distracting having the foreground out of focus for a shot of this type.

    still good efforts enjoy the camera!!

    :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 445 ✭✭YeAh!


    I've been trying to practise my exposures to get flowing effect of water etc. So I set shutter to 30" , and no matter what value I set the aperture to all I get is a white image. I can only get some glimpse of an image when i set shutter to 2". Whats going wrong?


  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Music Moderators Posts: 10,686 Mod ✭✭✭✭melekalikimaka


    too much light
    30 sec on a sunny day is madness, 1 or 2 secs will get just as flowing an effect


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,966 ✭✭✭elven


    If you use Tv mode (or it might be called shutter priority), and set the shutter to 2" it'll set the aperture to match. If the aperture flashes in the display, you know it's still too bright. Bring the speed up again, or add a neutral density filter (even a UV filter or polariser will help if you've got one already, they block a certain amount of light too). If you can, shoot in RAW mode so that you can work it to retain some detail in the highlights that would have been lost in a jpg as well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,763 ✭✭✭Fenster


    I really like the photo of the ducks, can I assume you're using the kit lens?

    My only gripe with that actual photo is that the duck in the foreground is distracting. It looks to me like you lit them up with the flash (low light?)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭mloc


    the highlights are fairly blown out in the first one. if you want to keep the flowing nature but find when you increase the shutter speed it blows them out, try finding a neutral density filter. this allows less light into the lens, resulting in longer shutter speeds for the same shot. pretty handy

    id say in that case tho you could just reduce the shutter speed a fair bit and still get the same effect but keep the detail.


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators Posts: 10,520 Mod ✭✭✭✭5uspect


    30" exposures are only really useful at night, Bulb mode is great for fireworks!
    I think TV mode is your best bet for getting those flowing water effects. Don't forget to drop to ISO to make the sensor less sensitive to light.

    I like the shots - well done!


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