First Band Photots C&C Please

pclancy

Been given the job of covering a series of gigs over the next few weeks, Stage lighting was pretty cool and I played around with the ISO settings a bit but didnt get great results, I tried it on no flash mode and was very hard remain perfectly still though a few shots came out pretty cool....

Using an EOS300D...any tips VERY welcome on how to take live music shots...

http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b128/paulpants/

Its the first 19 shots....

ciaranhickey

Hi - I'm not too familiar with concert/indoor photography but would like to get into it more myself.
But I guess you'll need to set your ISO level to 800 or 1600 or something quite high - although this will produce the grainy effect.

What Lens do you have? Something with a wide aperture f4 or lower would probably be more ideal so you'll be able to shoot at faster shutter speeds and avoid movement blur (f2.8 or lower would probably be even better). Maybe for starters set your camera to shutter priority and take some shots with different shutter speeds until you find a suitable one.

As I said I'm not too familiar with it myself, these are just points I've picked up from other people......
C.

digitalbeginner

Bear in mind that the focal length that your zoom is at determines the shutter speed below which you are likely to get camera shake.
eg 100mm (35mm equiv) needs 1/100 sec or above
200mm needs 1/200 sec
300mm needs 1/300 sec etc etc

These types of shutter speed can be hard to get at gigs though image stabilisation can help by up to 3 stops
eg the 100mm would only need 1/12 sec
the 200mm 1/25 sec
the 300mm only 1/37 sec

Try using a monopod. This could also save 2 to 3 stops.

As to technique (I had a look at your shots, they look well) try to wait until the movement has stopped ie if the singer is rocking back and forward wait 'til they've hit the front or back of the rocking, then take the shot.

For this to work you need to be sure to have the shutter button primed. Focus on the point you want to take the shot and keep the shutter button pressed half way down. When your subject hits the spot then the camera is ready to fire instantly.

Oriel

You'll need to learn a bit more about the basic ideas of photography to be able to get good results. You'll need to use a high iso and a wide aperature, which will both result in a faster shutter speed.

Here are my last two attempts, the second one I started playing around with shutter speeds:
www.stephenlynn.co.uk/gallery/music/oppenheimer/
www.stephenlynn.co.uk/gallery/music/redorganserpentsound/

The main thing is, and it's something that I'm not doing myself - get out and get practise!
Steve.

melekalikimaka

hummm i see alot are blurred or dark. first off what i do is take a few shots in the rehersals to see what settings i need so as i'm not fiddling while they be playing. I use a fair bit of flash(see my links) but what i do it put a piece of paper over it so it doesnt drain the colours as much. I usually shoot between 1/20th to 1/5th to get as much colour in as possible. try rear sync for some cool effects. iso i keep to 800 max, and if i go higher i put the pics through noise ninja to reduce the grain a bit

pclancy

Thanks for the advice and cc folks, steve I love your band shots nice work! Playing myself fri and sat this weekend so wont have any more gigs to shoot for another few but I will take all the above on board and get some practice. Might borrow a tripod next time as well.

Dundhoone

Meleka.. do you use your 50mm exclusively when taking gig photos??
do you find that the extra couple of stops with the f1.8 gives you the extra shutter speed you need to avoid subject motion blur??

DotOrg

have a read of my faq at www.aaaphotos.org/faq.htm

image stabilisation can help by up to 3 stops
eg the 100mm would only need 1/12 sec
the 200mm 1/25 sec
the 300mm only 1/37 sec

don't know how you worked that out, but i doubt you'll see anyone ever use any of those lenes with IS at those kind of speeds and get no no blur

i use my 70-200mm lens with IS and can hold it at 1/50th and not get blur in maybe 1 out of every 4 shots and i've very steady hands

Rojo

sinecurea wrote:

You'll need to learn a bit more about the basic ideas of photography to be able to get good results. You'll need to use a high iso and a wide aperature, which will both result in a faster shutter speed.

Here are my last two attempts, the second one I started playing around with shutter speeds:
www.stephenlynn.co.uk/gallery/music/oppenheimer/
www.stephenlynn.co.uk/gallery/music/redorganserpentsound/

The main thing is, and it's something that I'm not doing myself - get out and get practise!
Steve.

Nordie bands!


Oppenheimer are a class band!

melekalikimaka

Dundhoone wrote:

Meleka.. do you use your 50mm exclusively when taking gig photos??
do you find that the extra couple of stops with the f1.8 gives you the extra shutter speed you need to avoid subject motion blur??

I use my 18 - 55 3.5 for pretty much ALL my pictures, tbh my first few gigs were awful, but i gradually through trial and error learnt how to do it, I'm still improving but at least now they come out pretty clear and bright, i have a 50mm but i haven't really put it to use yet, the kit lens (nikon) impresses me more everytime i use it, i don't really go into the whole 'stops' area, just shutter and iso, fiddle with it a bit til the pics start coming out the way i like then shoot away. I find the flash with a piece of paper over it gives me the clarity and colours remain virbrant that way like in this pic (http://static.flickr.com/54/134532942_f597e3049e.jpg) you wouldnt think theres flash but without it the picture would have just been a blur. fiddle with the different flash settings too, can do some great stuff with motion blur using rear sync.

digitalbeginner

DotOrg wrote:

have a read of my faq at www.aaaphotos.org/faq.htm


don't know how you worked that out, but i doubt you'll see anyone ever use any of those lenes with IS at those kind of speeds and get no no blur

i use my 70-200mm lens with IS and can hold it at 1/50th and not get blur in maybe 1 out of every 4 shots and i've very steady hands

Image stabilisation is more effective on the processor, not in the lens. The suggestion was aimed at an SLR 'Bridge' decision as opposed to an SLR user.

Check all the specs on the manufacturers web sites, even the SLR lenses are quoting 3 stops as a max. However the more zoomed in you are the it seems, the less effective it is.

I don't make statements that I haven't checked first.

digitalbeginner

Have a look at the string "Emergenza Germany Finals - C&C Welcome", you'll see 3 great gig shots and the techical details on how they were taken.