Couldnt Resist it..!!

vectra

Bought one of these for my son's T-Maxx..
As the Title says.
Couldnt resist it as they are £34.95 new

Bought his one for £1.95

Looks just like new.. I would go as far as saying it was never used.. :eek:

NOVA COOLING HEAD

BFassassin

how did you get it that cheap:eek:

tallus

Sh1t that's nice!

vectra

BFassassin wrote:

how did you get it that cheap:eek:

Fleebay

g5hn710m4xpdwy

:eek:



jaysus that nice

Plug

One of the nicest cooling heads I ever saw:eek: I might give ebay ago myself.

vectra

Wooooooaaahhh..!!
Stand Back... :eek:

Lok at what we have here
New engine for my Revo

Or
Maybe just get a backup for my 2.5 :rolleyes:

Plug

Ah...easy disishion there, go for the 3.3:cool: Dyno tests show that it is more powerful than the hpi .25 engine even though its only a .20 sized block:eek:

tallus

vectra wrote:

Wooooooaaahhh..!!
Stand Back... :eek:

Lok at what we have here
New engine for my Revo

Or
Maybe just get a backup for my 2.5 :rolleyes:

Either or ! both look like good engines

coolwings

It is a lovely looking head - but it won't cool the engine as well as the ordinary head.
There is a real performance based engineering reason for this.
The most effective head is made of unpolished metal, which if looked at through a magnifying glass, looks like the surface of the moon with craters.
This maximizes surface area of metal-to-air for the best cooling.

When the metal is polished, it flattens the "craters" and reduces the surface (cooling) area. This reduces its efficiency.

When the polished metal is chromed, it reduces effectiveness still more. The research has been done long ago when motorcycle users stylized exhausts. They had an advantage to setoff - and this was a cooler exhaust (on the outside) that caused fewer burns if touched.
But their engines ran hotter, and in some engines that were already on the redline tempwise, trouble ensued.

So you might want to bump up the oil content of your fuel, or reduce the nitro a bit, or run a richer setting when you try first tests with the new "cooling" head.

BTW - If the makers are aware of this, they may have added an increased number of fins to compensate for the lower conductivity. There do seem to be a lot of fins on the head in the picture. But I don't have a pic of the standard head handy to compare. The more extra fins added, the more the cooling performance will rise back to the usual performance.

Plug

This is the standerd cooling head for the T-maxx. It wouldn,t cool as good as the nova cooling head due to the smaller size. I said it allready and I,ll say it again, that is one of the nicest cooling heads ever;)

vectra

coolwings wrote:

It is a lovely looking head - but it won't cool the engine as well as the ordinary head.
There is a real performance based engineering reason for this.
The most effective head is made of unpolished metal, which if looked at through a magnifying glass, looks like the surface of the moon with craters.
This maximizes surface area of metal-to-air for the best cooling.

When the metal is polished, it flattens the "craters" and reduces the surface (cooling) area. This reduces its efficiency.

When the polished metal is chromed, it reduces effectiveness still more. The research has been done long ago when motorcycle users stylized exhausts. They had an advantage to setoff - and this was a cooler exhaust (on the outside) that caused fewer burns if touched.
But their engines ran hotter, and in some engines that were already on the redline tempwise, trouble ensued.

So you might want to bump up the oil content of your fuel, or reduce the nitro a bit, or run a richer setting when you try first tests with the new "cooling" head.

BTW - If the makers are aware of this, they may have added an increased number of fins to compensate for the lower conductivity. There do seem to be a lot of fins on the head in the picture. But I don't have a pic of the standard head handy to compare. The more extra fins added, the more the cooling performance will rise back to the usual performance.

I totally agree with you on those cooling points but to be fair.. This head is Massive compared with the standard one.
Waay more fins than the normal one and it is also has a much bigger Diameter.;)

This particular head is a favourite with all T-Maxx owners that need the extra cooling which my sons one does
The Head on my revo is much better so I am happy with that one for now.

Currently his Maxx is running 20% Blue Thunder but runs (OK) ob 16% MT
I will be using the 16% when I install this and take it from there. Bring him to the 20% But I may just keep the 25% Tornado for my Revo for a while

coolwings

vectra wrote:

...... head is Massive compared with the standard one.
Waay more fins than the normal one and it is also has a much bigger Diameter.;) ..........

Looks great.
Sounds like it will do a fine job as well

vectra

coolwings wrote:

Looks great.
Sounds like it will do a fine job as well

well, I got some feedback off experienced T-Maxx owners that have bought this particular head and the reckon it should be first on the list of hopups for any tmaxx owner.;)

So, Cant be that bad, Will be finding out soon enough.. Must get some gasket maker now for the rebuild to make sure I dont have any air leaks.. any reccomendations on what particular stuff to get ?

coolwings

Try PTFE tape - it's the best
or
use threadlock - when it burns crispy the black remainder is a good gasket.

Plug

Do you need a copper gasket?

coolwings

The proper gasket will have a "proper" thickness, of course.
PTFE might raise compression a bit by being thinner.
I bet the original is copper or steel in a thin "shim" thickness.

Plug

Yeh..it has the diameter of a 50 cent coin(roughly) and is flat as 3 sheets of paper. What if he used 2 gaskets. It would seal everything but decrease compression and thats a bad thing.

coolwings

Plug wrote:

...What if he used 2 gaskets. It would seal everything but decrease compression and thats a bad thing.

Actually it would be no big problem.
You could for example put a thicker gasket in, then get back to original settings by fitting a slightly warmer glowplug than before.

vectra

Hold on..!!
I didnt mean as a head gasket as I will be using the one that is already on there ( pending it is in good condition)
What I meant was for sealing any leaks between the Carb and Engine and between the exhaust and engine and on the backplate

Plug

Ah...you mean the rubber o rings, right. If their worn you could use a small elastic, it,s the same effect.

coolwings

The silicone sold in tackle shops for coarse angling floats (they cut little rings off) can be tied round the carb mount tube as a stopgap.
But the purpose made O-ring is a good deal tougher.

vectra

What I was thinking of using is the Instant Gasket maker that garages use on cars?

Plug

The one,s for cars are a hell of alot thicker than the little one,s we us.

vectra

Plug wrote:

The one,s for cars are a hell of alot thicker than the little one,s we us.

Yes but this is in a tube that you swueeze out and smear some on both surfaces .... Put them together and let them to set.. but they stay sort of "rubbery" I know this stuff works only I was wondering if there is a particular type that would be better suited?