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Drilling Glass ??

  • 13-04-2006 12:59pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 228 ✭✭


    I recently got a glass splashback from B&Q have installed it but need to drill a hold (about 5mm) to screw back on the utensil rail. Any idea's what I can use to drill the glass. I'm not sure if this is tempered or safety glass...as I've thrown out box and can't find a listing on B&Q's website.

    EOin


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Go and buy a glass bit, they are triangular in shape and welded to a mild steel shaft.The bit is made from tungsten carbide.
    They are about €9 for a 7mm bit.
    Drill on slowest speed or the bit will overheat, and drill dry, wear a mask.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 595 ✭✭✭Just The One


    CJhaughey wrote:
    Go and buy a glass bit, they are triangular in shape and welded to a mild steel shaft.The bit is made from tungsten carbide.
    They are about €9 for a 7mm bit.
    Drill on slowest speed or the bit will overheat, and drill dry, wear a mask.


    Yip - Diamond bit and drill slowly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32,386 ✭✭✭✭rubadub


    I have not seen diamond tips in shops here. I have used the triangle/shovel shaped tungsten tip though, it also does tile. Practise on other glass first. I do mine wet rather than dry. I submerge it all in water, it sucks the heat away, I had probelms with chipping and the dust trying it dry. You could make a well with putty for oil or water too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Hard to make a well when the surface is vertical.
    I would use a smaller bit first~4mm then use the bigger drill, but whatever you use go sloooow.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 228 ✭✭emul


    So a diaond drill bit, and go slowly. It is vertical so keeping wet will be an issue...should I cross spot with masking tape to prevent slippage or will heat cause an issue?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    No you won't need a diamond bit, just the tungsten one will do, no need to wet just go slow and you will find that it will eat into the glass pretty fast anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 626 ✭✭✭Ro-76


    emul wrote:
    So a diaond drill bit, and go slowly. It is vertical so keeping wet will be an issue...should I cross spot with masking tape to prevent slippage or will heat cause an issue?
    I recently drilled a mirror vertically. I just kept dipping the drill bit in a cup of water to keep it wet - worked fine. It took me about 10 minutes per hole, though. I was probably a bit paranoid.

    One other point if you will be screwing into a wall behind the glass: Make sure not to tighten the screws too much. I managed to crack a mirror dong just that. I was just about tight enough, and thought I woudl just give it another quarter turn, and crack! If using a drill, or electric screwdriver, make sure that you do the last feww turns by hand. The second time round I also put some rubber spacers - just the small stick-on feet - between the mirror and the bracket to give a bit of a cushion.

    Ro


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 228 ✭✭emul


    Well thanks to all for the useful tips. I got the drill bit and using a battery powered unit started drilling - dipping the bit into water constantly. Drilled slowly and then ......BANG..... one glass splashback no more :-(

    So not sure what went wrong - but if you've bought a glass splashback in B&Q you may NOT want to try drilling it !!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 FGA Glass Splashbacks Ireland


    I know this thread is from years ago but it may help people with the same problems now. The splashback you bought was toughened. Any glass to be used behind a hob would have to be, otherwise it would crack from the heat. When glass is toughened it becomes impossible to cut or drill. Its not hard to do but impossible to do. Glass is required to have a stamp in the corner to indicate that its toughened. Even then sometimes they don't.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    I know this thread is from years ago but it may help people with the same problems now. The splashback you bought was toughened. Any glass to be used behind a hob would have to be, otherwise it would crack from the heat. When glass is toughened it becomes impossible to cut or drill. Its not hard to do but impossible to do. Glass is required to have a stamp in the corner to indicate that its toughened. Even then sometimes they don't.
    Resurrect a 7yr old post to tout your wares? Good strategy.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 135 ✭✭ron jambo


    I know this thread is from years ago but it may help people with the same problems now. The splashback you bought was toughened. Any glass to be used behind a hob would have to be, otherwise it would crack from the heat. When glass is toughened it becomes impossible to cut or drill. Its not hard to do but impossible to do. Glass is required to have a stamp in the corner to indicate that its toughened. Even then sometimes they don't.
    I don;t think you know what you;re talking about :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,409 ✭✭✭sullzz


    ron jambo wrote: »
    I don;t think you know what you;re talking about :P

    I think he does , the splash back would be toughend glass , it's same as glass you can get for bathrooms. When we are 1st fixing bathrooms where glass is going to be fitted we have to mark out where the holes need to be drilled for rad brackets , shower fixtures and basins etc, the glass lads then come to measure for the glass and the holes , they then make the glass and drill the holes before it's toughend , anything to be hung on the glass after that needs to be stuck to it as any attempt to drill it would shatter it .
    Although I don't agree with him digging up an old thread to promote a buisness


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 135 ✭✭ron jambo


    sullzz wrote: »
    I think he does , the splash back would be toughend glass , it's same as glass you can get for bathrooms. When we are 1st fixing bathrooms where glass is going to be fitted we have to mark out where the holes need to be drilled for rad brackets , shower fixtures and basins etc, the glass lads then come to measure for the glass and the holes , they then make the glass and drill the holes before it's toughend , anything to be hung on the glass after that needs to be stuck to it as any attempt to drill it would shatter it .
    Although I don't agree with him digging up an old thread to promote a buisness
    Indeed :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 FGA Glass Splashbacks Ireland


    Just joined Boards and don't know much about anything other than glass and just thought it may be useful to add a bit of fact into the discussion. I would be more than happy to change my user name. If anyone knows how that would be a help.


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