Whats the difference in shock oil between 15wt 30wt 40wt 80wt..

AndyPipkin2007 · 10-04-2006 12:30pm #1

Whats the difference in shock oil between 15wt 30wt 40wt 80wt.. i wanted to buy some shock oil on ebay.. but there were lots of different types... what shall i go for, i think is it the weight of the oil?? i will be using the monster truck on rough ground, sort of grass , like a field.. but then again i might be using it on flat ground, can i just change the oil before using the truck?

AndyPipkin2007 · 10-04-2006 12:34pm

its for a nitro monster truck by the way

T-Maxx · 10-04-2006 2:20pm

The "weight" of shock oil refers to its viscosity. In layman's terms, 30wt is twice as thick as 15wt, etc.

You'll have to experience with different weights to find the right one for you, it depends on the type, weight and setup of your truck, as well as where and how you drive/jump it.

(The stock T-Maxx comes with approx. 30wt.)

AndyPipkin2007 · 10-04-2006 2:26pm

Thanks t-maxx, your one of the only people who would help..lol.

I will start of with buying 30wt, and try around.! thanks again

Plug · 10-04-2006 8:19pm

I have a full bottle of trinity 30w shock oil. Send us a pm if your intreasted.

vectra · 10-04-2006 11:31pm

T-Maxx wrote:

The stock T-Maxx comes with approx. 30wt.

I wonder what is the stock oil in the Revo ?
I have some 40 and 45 here I might try in the rear shocks as it seems to "sit down" more at the back.

Plug · 11-04-2006 10:35am

vectra wrote:

I wonder what is the stock oil in the Revo ?

The same as the t-maxx, I think all traxxas stuff are 30w.

coolwings · 11-04-2006 12:59pm

I suppose you are aware ...... a litre of SAE 30 motor oil (from the local filling station) is viscosity "30", likewise 40 and 45 grade motor oil are 40 and 45.

You probably have a litre of what you need in your garden shed right now !

I used to use fishing multiplier reel oil for (thin) - sewing machine oil for (slightly less thin) - after run oil (for medium) - three in one (for slightly thicker) - Castrol GTX for medium high viscosity, and high-vis lube oil (for highly viscous.)

Now I just seem to use either after run oil or Castrol GTX

Norman

Plug · 11-04-2006 4:10pm

The oil for the shocks are 100% silicone there suposed to be better for the shocks. Motor oil can be used for air filter oil according to traxxas. That engine oil might be a bit hard for the shocks.

coolwings · 11-04-2006 6:16pm

You can experiment with allowing a small amount of air in each damper until you get the effect you require.
I would expect however that the more you are doing extremely big jumps - the more the textbook approach is necessary.

coolwings · 12-04-2006 9:46am

Plug wrote:

The oil for the shocks are 100% silicone there suposed to be better for the shocks. Motor oil can be used for air filter oil according to traxxas. That engine oil might be a bit hard for the shocks.

There is a second point in what you say there ....
Mineral oil vs silicone
A mineral oil would be harder on plastic shock parts over time, and the silicone substitute would be kinder on those parts.
Dunno how long it would take to see the difference tho.
I just use the most easily accessible ones (of a suitable thickness) nowadays and for the past 2 years the after-run and GTX have done the lot for me...

dmcracing · 13-04-2006 11:32pm

Hi lads,If anyone needs proper silicone shock oil.All grades stocked 10wt-120wt.Send a mail.Can post anywhere.

vectra · 14-04-2006 9:50am

dmcracing wrote:

Hi lads,If anyone needs proper silicone shock oil.All grades stocked 10wt-120wt.Send a mail.Can post anywhere.

Sent you a private message

vectra · 18-04-2006 8:09pm

Changed my rear shock oil to 45 today. aint got out to try it yet but hoping to over the next few days if it stays dry :mad:

g5hn710m4xpdwy · 19-04-2006 10:45am

dmracing - are you charging for the silcone oil?
and
how do people change the oil!?!

T-Maxx · 19-04-2006 11:11am

Flunked wrote:

dmracing - are you charging for the silcone oil?

Yeah, I'd like to know as well!

Flunked wrote:

how do people change the oil!?!

1. Take the shock cap off*
2. Empty old oil
3. Work shock up and down to rid all old oil
4. Rinse with denatured alcohol
5. Fill to manufacturer's specification

*(You could also take the complete shock apart to check for wear and tear on o-rings/bladders/shafts/etc. )

g5hn710m4xpdwy · 19-04-2006 11:26am

okey dokey thanks for that

BFassassin · 19-04-2006 11:28am

dmc racing hasnt been on in a while he must have forgot about us im waiting for him to reply to a pm

Plug · 19-04-2006 12:42pm

I have a bottle of 30w shock oil in the gaff. Send us a pm if your looking for some.

g5hn710m4xpdwy · 19-04-2006 12:48pm

lol i love the word gaf....;)

vectra · 19-04-2006 1:13pm

BFassassin wrote:

dmc racing hasnt been on in a while he must have forgot about us im waiting for him to reply to a pm

He never forgets.
BUT
he is a busy Buchall {spelling}:D
and he will be back (as Arnie said)

crashman · 22-04-2006 12:57pm

coolwings wrote:

I suppose you are aware ...... a litre of SAE 30 motor oil (from the local filling station) is viscosity "30", likewise 40 and 45 grade motor oil are 40 and 45.

You probably have a litre of what you need in your garden shed right now !

I used to use fishing multiplier reel oil for (thin) - sewing machine oil for (slightly less thin) - after run oil (for medium) - three in one (for slightly thicker) - Castrol GTX for medium high viscosity, and high-vis lube oil (for highly viscous.)

Now I just seem to use either after run oil or Castrol GTX

Norman

Motor oils are petroleum based and anything petrol based will swell rubber seals/bladders etc. You will find your shocks may leak prematurely, needing to be rebuilt more often. Stick with silicon based oils and you will be able to swap viscosities several times between rebuilds.

Steve

coolwings · 25-04-2006 9:47pm

crashman wrote:

Motor oils are petroleum based and anything petrol based will swell rubber seals/bladders etc. You will find your shocks may leak prematurely, needing to be rebuilt more often.

I can say that I have not noticed any swelling, but the parts are a nylon type plastic, not rubber. I suspect the constant loss of plastisizer from the shock cylinders has speeded up, or to put it another way, the plastic is aging at a faster rate than usual. I'm not sure the difference is all that significant, given the (shortish) lifespan of a model car. eg I haven't broken one yet. But then I'm not racing every day.

crashman wrote:

Stick with silicon based oils and you will be able to swap viscosities several times between rebuilds.Steve

I agree that silicon oils affect the plastic parts less. So shock oils will not accellerate aging. They are also cleaner if a leak appears. I have never actually had a leak, but I've spilled some while filling the shock piston cylinders ! .
Of course the silicon oils are bad for your silicone parts in the car, eg fuel tubing, airfilter components, etc. Nobody seems to be aware of that.
So it's a tradeoff.
My real reason for using auto oils of similar viscosity, was convenience- available on the bench ... cheap ... does the job). At the time I didn't have any silicone shock oils handy. Since then we got shock oils for modellers in. But in my own vehicles, I have used auto oil still with no problems now for five years.

Whats the difference in shock oil between 15wt 30wt 40wt 80wt..

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