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Where to get a 6mm tube?

  • 11-02-2006 6:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭


    Ok, this is a bit of a strange one.
    I bought a 12v oil extractor and had a go with it the other day.
    It came with clear plastic, 6mm tubing that you feed down the dip stick pipe.

    The problem I found was, the tube is too flexible and I'm sure that when it reaches the bottom of the oil pan, it bends and does a u-turn back out of the pan, therefore losing suction.

    Can anyone suggest what I could use instead of the flexible tubing?
    Was thinking along the lines of a length of rigid tube/pipe about 6mm and slightly longer than the dip stick.

    Anyone any suggestions?

    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Why don't you measure the dipstick against the tube?
    Mark the point at which the tube should end and only push it in that far.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    Measuring the dipstick is not good enough as dipsticks don't go all the way to the bottom. Get a coat hanger, straighten it, clean it and put in down the dipstick tube untill it touches the bottom of the sump. Measure it now and you have the total length.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,940 ✭✭✭dingding


    Could you put a piece of copper pips on the end. this would weigh down the pipe, also watch the distance as per the previous post.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭Squirrel


    I wouldn't go for a rigid one, since I reckon the dip-stick pipe isn't straight.

    I'd say go with CJhaughey's advice, never thought I'd say that ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    That's a good point, thanks.
    I did roughly mark it, but it didn't feel like it was making contact with anything solid.

    Could have been an inch or so above the base of the pan, but then any more feeding it down and I guess it's curling back again.
    The oil has to be reasonably hot for the pump to draw it up, but the heat makes the tubing like putty!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    crosstownk wrote:
    Measuring the dipstick is not good enough as dipsticks don't go all the way to the bottom. Get a coat hanger, straighten it, clean it and put in down the dipstick tube untill it touches the bottom of the sump. Measure it now and you have the total length.

    That too, sounds like a great idea ;)

    Cheers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    dingding wrote:
    Could you put a piece of copper pips on the end. this would weigh down the pipe, also watch the distance as per the previous post.

    Any pipe I have is too big :confused:
    Also, I'd be worried that anything attached to the end of the tube might come off and be stuck in the sump :eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I've worked in many garages a s a service manager and to be honest I have no time for any oil suction device. Best prsctice is to drain the sump by screwing out the bung. The oil should be warm (not hot) to ensure it flows freely. However, if the bung is cross threaded then suction is the only answer. If you do screw out the bung ALWAYS use a new washer.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    I know, I've been doing the sump plug thing for years, but with the near impossible access under the car (and in the hope for an easy life!) I thought I'd try suction.

    Here's a mad idea: If I use the coat hanger to measure the distance to the bottom of the sump, mark it and bend it at the mark to form a figure 7.

    Make a small hole in the tube at the mark, insert coat hanger through the hole and feed it through all the way down, seal hole.

    Now I should have a semi rigid probe that won't curl!!

    Have I way too much time on my hands? :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    That will greatly restrict the flow in the tube.
    BTW if you do remove the sump washer, you don't have to throw it away if it is copper.
    Simply take the washer and heat until red hot and drop into a old can filled with water.
    This retempers the copper and makes it soft again.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    Draining via the plug is a b*tch if you've got an undertray. It's not the end of the world if you leave a small bit of oil behind UNLESS your car has longlife service intervals. Chances are you'll be topping up the oil between changes.
    Still, the only way to truly drain the sump is by removing the plug but I fully understand the laziness factor!! You could go to Advance Tyres and they will change your oil cheaper than most other places but I'd check what oil they use first. The problem with the suction is that if you have any sludge at the bottom of the sump it will stay there. If, however, you drain via the bung, gravity will wash some of the sludge out. Use the bung, man!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    But what about the oil extractor? it's my new toy :(
    And yes, the sump is covered by one of those shield things.

    As for CJ's comment, Yeah, I think the flow might be a bit too restricted allright.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    Yeah - you gotta use the new toy!! At least once!!!!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,863 ✭✭✭✭crosstownk


    I take your point about the washer but for €1 I'd buy a new one. Most sumps these days are aluminium so copper washers are no more...............


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