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Anyone glued solid timber floor?

  • 22-11-2005 5:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭


    Hi,
    I've been through a lot of the very helpful and informative threads on timber flooring, but I'm not sure if this was answered before.

    I'm limited in the height available for my timber floor downstairs in the hall. The teak front door allows me 25mm. I want to put down a solid timber floor.
    The floor is likely at least 20mm deep - altho someone here had 18mm before, and battens would bring me well over the 25mm. The guy in the shop said I *could* float the floor, but this apparently invalidates any guarantee, as it is supposed to be put down on battens. I want wide plank, but he says this is the worst option for floating. I'm looking at the living room too, which is 14ft across, and he reckons this is too much for floating a wide plank solid floor. At least in this room I don't have the problem with the external door, but I guess I don't want different floor levels in adjoining rooms either ...

    Anyway, he said I could glue the solid timber directly onto the concrete floor.
    Has anyone done this? Would you recommend this option? What are the drawbacks? Did I read before that it's uncomfortable to walk on, i.e. no give?

    Many thanks.
    /M.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi,

    I have floated the floor on a thin underlay but every joint was glued and the floor held together with ratchet straps while setting.

    It hasn't moved yet after some five years, not bad for a temporary job.

    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 185 ✭✭JimmyL


    Hi,

    I have successfully used adhesive (Sikabond - Chadwicks) to glue mixed width wide (upto 7in) planks on 9mm ply. You can glue directly onto concrete if the floor is even enough and dry enough - check the Sikabond spec. You can also seal the floor to be on the safe side. The main thing is even floor. It's a bit messy and lots of ratchet clamps would be essential.

    It's pretty confortable to walk on. At least no different to timber floor over batons.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,114 ✭✭✭noby


    Alternatively, you could have a recessed floor just at the door. I've come across this a lot. If you tile, perhaps, a square the width of the door, and let your timber floor come as far as this. This would allow space for battens if that's the way you want to go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 717 ✭✭✭charlesanto




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,497 ✭✭✭rooferPete


    Hi manuel,

    I didn't bond or stick the floor down it is floating, my first choice for a floating floor is still Junckers, I think their clip system is hard to beat.

    I think Brooks Thomas had a sale on recently it might be worth your while taking a look, as far as I know they have the only system designed for fitting floating floors direct to concrete with an underlay.

    .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 431 ✭✭Manuel


    noby wrote:
    Alternatively, you could have a recessed floor just at the door. I've come across this a lot. If you tile, perhaps, a square the width of the door, and let your timber floor come as far as this. This would allow space for battens if that's the way you want to go.

    noby, that sounds like a great idea. You wouldn't happen to have a photo example of this? I'm trying to picture it ...
    /M.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    I agree with Pete, Junckers is the best solid option floor for floating. If you want to glue and float, it will take a long time unless the tongue & grooves fit very snugly together and don't move otherwise you'll have to clamp each board to the next one as the glue goes off.....long time.


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