Rounded off radiator bleed nut

snaps

I have 2 rounded off radiator bleed bolts in the radiators and of course they are the ones with air in them. Any tips that can be used to open these? I don't have long nose pliers to get to it and the bolts are in awkward position facing the wall?

lomb

vice grips, tigten it really tight and squeeze till it locks, will loosen it gauranteed 100%

lomb

snaps wrote:

long nose pliers

they will never work anyway. u need a vice grips http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/ShopCart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT170_pg19.htm

Hagar

Do yourself a favour and buy a couple of spares and replace the damaged ones when you do the bleeding.

DonkeyStyle \o/

Crazy idea:
Use a small hacksaw to cut a single dead-center line along the face of the bolt (and its surrounding housing if need be)... and just like that you've got a biting point for a flat-head screwdriver.
I don't know what your radiator bleed nuts are like, but it looks like it'd work on the radiators here.

snaps

Hacksaw not possible as the nuts are sunk in under the hole the are sat in. Also not sure if I can get vice grips into them as the gap around nut and radiator is to small.

JamesM

It is very unlikely that you will get a vicegrips into that area. If the vent is facing the wall, it is likely that the rad is a Veha. Unlike others, the vent screws straight into the rad and is not inserted in a larger fitting. Before you completely wreck it, try to get a brand new vent key, which might still grip the vent. Or try a different type of key which might be tighter - there can be a difference in keys. If you don't get the vent out, you might get someone to drill and tap the rad and put in a complete vent fiting. If you can lift the rad off the wall brackets, loosen the valve nuts and swing the rad forward, you will get at the vent easier. Sometimes the vent snaps off. If this happens, you are back to drilling and tapping. As a temporary measure, while the top of the rad is lower than the bottom, you can get most of the air out at the valve nuts before raising the rad again.
Jim.

tapest

snaps wrote:

I have 2 rounded off radiator bleed bolts in the radiators and of course they are the ones with air in them. Any tips that can be used to open these? I don't have long nose pliers to get to it and the bolts are in awkward position facing the wall?

hi
What you need to remove broken bolts and the like is called a "broken stud remover or extractor"...The down side is I dont know if they make them that small.
Method: Very gently centre punch the centre of stud and drill very small hole, screw in extractor (it has a left hand thread and is tapered) when extractor tightens up, the stud unscrews.
Another idea: can you get at it with a flat screw driver and hammer and "drift" it off ?
Again : A good fitter should be able to drill out the centre, leaving very little except brass thread and then collapse the remainder. If necessary thread can be "cleaned2 with a "tap"
If worse comes to worse and you get new hole drilled and tapped, get auto bleed valve. never have trouble again,

Of all the above, I'd have a go at drifting it off, nothing to loose and no cost, just start gently. If the brass is soft enough you might be able to cut a driver slot with screwdriver and hammer
Lets know how you get on..and good luck
t

MorningStar

Really simple solution is to put a screw in the radiator. You then use that to tap the radiator. Put some plumbers tape on the screw after you initially get the screw in. Very easy to do and a plumber was the one who showed me how to do it.

pipers

replace both radiators

JamesM

MorningStar wrote:

Really simple solution is to put a screw in the radiator. You then use that to tap the radiator. Put some plumbers tape on the screw after you initially get the screw in. Very easy to do and a plumber was the one who showed me how to do it.

That can go very wrong and then you have a hole in the rad. Still leaks - try a larger screw - a larger hole :mad:
If you try it, make sure that you use a self tapping screw.
It is usually when you go to bleed the rad a second or third time that you have trouble with a leak at the screw.
Jim