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Getting recessed lighting put in - how much?

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  • 11-09-2004 8:51pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,682 ✭✭✭


    I'm thinking of getting recessed lighting put in a room - you know, the halogen lights that are installed "into" the ceiling. (see this: http://www.lightideas.com.au/images/Lighting%20Images/SystemLightingImages/HalogenDownlightsInStore1Feb2001.jpg)

    Will get an electrician to do it, since it can be a bit tricky, and it's important that it's done correctly (can be a fire hazard if improperly fitted). Anyone had this done? How much did it cost ya? Would just like to get an idea of how much I should be thinking of spending on this before I go to electricians for quotes..

    Also, anyone know how much an electrician would/should charge to put in extra power sockets?

    Thanks in advance for any info you can share :D


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 78,352 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    LookingFor wrote:
    Will get an electrician to do it, since it can be a bit tricky, and it's important that it's done correctly (can be a fire hazard if improperly fitted). Anyone had this done? How much did it cost ya? Would just like to get an idea of how much I should be thinking of spending on this before I go to electricians for quotes..
    The real cost for these is likely to be the light fittings themselves. You can spend anything from €5-500 (-€50,000!) on a light fitting. Ideally your layout will take account of the ceiling joists above the room. Some of these fitting can get quite hot and need to be fireproofed.

    One option is to get lights on a track, if that suits your needs. Something like this, but you can get lighter versions. It means less screwing around with floor boards and plastering http://ia.hcs.ohiou.edu/courses/js2000/team2/inspirational/for%20web/lighting-track.jpg

    http://www.marukellis.gr/images/cat8.jpg
    Also, anyone know how much an electrician would/should charge to put in extra power sockets?
    It's all down to how your current sockets are set up and how easy it would be to add new ones. It might only take an hour to do, but if you have to go chasing walls, doing plaster repairs and repainting, thats another matter. The materials are cheap (unless you want fancy do-da sockets.) One option might be to surface fix some trunking.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,682 ✭✭✭LookingFor


    Cheers Victor! I'm not sure how suitable a track would be for my needs..I'm planning to get home theater projector, and it'll likely be mounted close to the ceiling, so a track may obstruct the picture it throws. Hence the desire for recessed lighting, which wouldn't get in the way at all...

    Do you happen to know what the typical electrician charges might be for installation (i.e. the cost for the work, asides from the light fitting itself?).

    Thanks again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 78,352 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    It's largely going to be down to how quickly the electrician will be able to do it. If it's a days work, he's likely to charge €300-500 (but you might do better).

    Oh, also, if you go the low voltage route, add the cost of the transformer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,682 ✭✭✭LookingFor


    Cheers Victor, so much!

    One final question, if I can (sorry!) - what is the significance of "going low voltage"? I presume that's an alternative to mains voltage? What are the differences?

    Thanks again for your help.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    LookingFor wrote:
    Cheers Victor, so much!

    One final question, if I can (sorry!) - what is the significance of "going low voltage"? I presume that's an alternative to mains voltage? What are the differences?

    Thanks again for your help.
    Low voltage includes a transformr that steps down the mains to 12V. The transformer can also get hot.
    I find the light from the low voltage better


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators Posts: 10,952 Mod ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    I dont know if this is too late or not but here goes. Some of the lights in the pic you posted are MH (metal halide) they would be 50-70-100 or 150Watt, like low voltage they get very hot but they give you more light per watt. They are really a shop fitters display light
    Low voltage fittings are nice, but hot and very expensive to run.

    try
    www.genesis13.co.uk for some ideas, the silver twist range is lovely

    Where you need LV is if you want to dim the lights, dimmable fluorescent fittings are expensive and MH fittings cant be dimmed, and are just not suitable for this application.
    A great light is the 10Watt recessed PL downlight. It looks like the LV (not as bright or the light is not as yellow/warm) they cost more to buy , about €50 but they dont heat up nearly as much, they use only 20% of the juice and they wont turn your ceiling black and the lamps last for ages.
    When i did my house last year i put some Lv fittings in the rooms that i wanted to dim and 10W fluorescents in the rooms that did not require dimming, hall, toilets etc. The dimmable version of the 10Watt fitting is very expensive but available.

    For projectors wall lights with an uplighting effect is very effective, you can get one with some down light spill. alway remember to watch for dimming requirements. Normal table lamps, light bulbs an low voltage fitting can be dimmed (make sure traffos are dimmable (most are these days anyway). Fluorescent fitting are mnore difficult to dim and dimmable ones are very expensive, but not that when you dim a fluorescent fitting you are saving money, dimming a LV fitting saves money, but with LV fitting the energy is simply lost to heat in the dimmers so they cost as much to run on full and they do dimmed.
    Once again try to get the electrician to price the works as a job not per point, work out how many sockets / lights you need and go from there, do a list, have the fittings first, extras will cost you lots so plan ahead.


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