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Floor tiles on floor boards

  • 17-05-2004 9:21am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭


    Spent the weekend putting tiles down on my kitchen floor. Have most of the full tiles down and I am getting an angle grinder to do the cutting. No problems there.

    However, I also want to tile the upstairs bathroom and I am not certain if you can put the adhesive directly onto bare floor boards. Is it ok to do this or must I prepare the floor boards in some way first?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,972 ✭✭✭SheroN


    you're best bet is to get some plywood and screw it down to the floor boards, then place the tiles on top of that. If you put them directly onto the floor boards there's a strong change they'll crack etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,213 ✭✭✭beer enigma


    May also consider putting a coat of Polybond onto the ply as it tends to suck the moisture out of the tile cement a bit too quickly.

    You can get a cheap tub of it at any DIY place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,580 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Originally posted by ShaneOC
    Have most of the full tiles down and I am getting an agle grinder to do the cutting.
    You can get a tile cutter much cheaper :D


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    Ya, you need a PVA bounding to be brushed onto the timber before you apply the adhesive


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭ShaneOC


    Originally posted by Victor
    You can get a tile cutter much cheaper :D

    I suppose I could buy a tile cutter cheaper but I'm only borrowing the angle grinder :D. And it's not all straight cuts either, so the angle grinder will be more suited for the job.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 57 ✭✭Aidanm


    cover floor in 2 or 4 mm ply.
    Screw the ply down every 4 - 6 inches.
    This will stop the floor moving, cracking or seperating tiles.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    I've seen tile adhesive available for tiling directly on to floor boards. It obviously has that flexibility built into it.

    I did the bathroom not so long ago and came across the same problem you have. I opted to lift out the floor boards and I put down 12mm ply on the joists by screwing them down. With the tiles being 6mm thick and adhesive adding another 5mm, it was the same with as the old floor boards (21mm). That way the WC and WHB pedastel went back in over the tiles for a more professional finish. It's very easy to pull out the wc. Just hold up the ball cock and flush once. Release the wc from the cistern by loosening off the wing nuts and pull out the wc. They're will probably be 2 screws securing it to the floor also. have a bucket ready to catch any over flow. It makes the finish look 10 times better and you don't have to worry about all those tile cuts around the pedastel and wc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭ShaneOC


    Thanks Lex,

    Sounds like something worth looking into. The idea of having to cut the tiles to fit around the WC in the bathroom is not appealing to me. Not much space up there so anything that makes it easier is fine with me. I'll have a look at the floor boards and see how easy it would be to lift them up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13 gerrykkkdanbury


    The adhesive sells under the name "tile on timber" .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,092 ✭✭✭ShaneOC


    Originally posted by gerrykkkdanbury
    The adhesive sells under the name "tile on timber" .

    Probably sold by Ronseal as it does exactly what it says on the tin :D.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Regional Midwest Moderators, Regional West Moderators Posts: 16,724 Mod ✭✭✭✭yop


    The idea of having to cut the tiles to fit around the WC in the bathroom is not appealing to me

    IF at all possible take out the toilet bowl and pedestal, first of it will make the work look better but if you decided you wish to change the pedestal or toilet and the new one is a different shape then you can see the issue.

    BUT if you do remember you will have to reposition the hand basin and also the cistern and the pedestal and toilet bowl will be higher.

    Get yourself you stop taps to put on the end of the hot and cold and toilet feeds so at least you can turn back on the water when you remove the cistern and bowl
    glcuk with it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,220 ✭✭✭✭Lex Luthor


    Originally posted by ShaneOC
    Thanks Lex,

    Sounds like something worth looking into. The idea of having to cut the tiles to fit around the WC in the bathroom is not appealing to me. Not much space up there so anything that makes it easier is fine with me. I'll have a look at the floor boards and see how easy it would be to lift them up.

    It definately was easier that way. Remove the wc and pedastel first. The first floor board was the hardest to get up...after that...with a good nail bar and an assistant, you could have them up in about 2 hrs. My bathroom floor was 6' x 6' so it didn't take that long. Just make sute when you put the plywood down to mark out where the pipes are running so you don't screw into them. Re-fitting the wc is crucial just to make sure you get the seal right. Mine leaked a little initially around the rubber exterior so I just ran a bead of silicon around it to seal it in. No problems since.


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