Nail or glue ?

Netnut

Hi all, i am putting down a solid wooden floor in my sitting room but i dont know if i should nail or glue? I have been given advice from several people but they all conflict. What should i do? It will be on a concrete floor in a new house.

Hellrazer

When laying a solid floor on concrete you have to first nail battens to the concrete at intervals of 1 foot??? in horizontal and vertical positions.The solid wooden floor is then "secretly" nailed to these battens.
A solid wooden floor is not a floating floor so has to be secured to the floor underneath.
HTH
Richie

Sleipnir

do you mean a 'floating' floor?
I've never heard of a floor being nailed to concrete base. Imagine the creaking that would make. Not to mention the cracks you'll end up with. Not a good idea, imho.

When you say 'gluing' I take it you don't mean gluing the floor directly onto the concrete right? Cos that wouldn't work at all, at all.
You mean gluing it edge-to-edge right?
This would be laying a floating floor which isn't actually fixed to the concrete underneath. If it's done properly, that's no problem at all.
Usually there is a sheet of foam laid between the wooden floor and the concrete to cut out noise.
Also, as this is a new house, make sure that the concrete is completely dry. This can take a month or two depending on the weather. Ask the builder (or whoever you bought the floor from) how long you shoulld wait.
The boards should also be stored in the same room for 2 weeks to allow them to adapt to the environment.

Have a look here for more info.

http://www.mitre10.com.au/DIY/renovateIt_16.asp

Sleipnir

Originally posted by Hellrazer
When laying a solid floor on concrete you have to first nail battens to the concrete at intervals of 1 foot??? in horizontal and vertical positions.The solid wooden floor is then "secretly" nailed to these battens.
A solid wooden floor is not a floating floor so has to be secured to the floor underneath.
HTH
Richie

Didn't know that. Do what he says!

Netnut

Thanks for the replies, will update with any further problems

Borzoi

As Hellrazer says, for a solid wood floor, you need to put down battens (one way only though)

Steps:
1) Lay a dampproof course - this is just a large heavy duty polythene sheet (Visqueen is a trade name) Strictly speaking in a new modern home, there should be one in, but were only talking about €20 and 10mins so why take a chance. This only applies to ground floors.

2) Lay your battens, 7/8-1" (22-25mm) at right angle to the direction you want the solid floor planks to go in. 12"-16" apart - depending on solid wood floor thickness. This assumes your laying on to a concrete floor. BTW you'll need to hire a Hilti gun for this - be careful!!

3) Now start laying your planks leaving about 10mm all round for expansion. You'll need to hire a secret nailer that will brive the nails in at a 45 angle on the tongue of the floor. This is hard work, you'll need beer (but not too much). Mix and match the plank lenghts so you don't have to cut much and to avoid any obvious pattern.

4) Sand the floor down -first rough, then smooth paper grades. Also hard work, but a no-brainer, apply more beer.

5) Varnish - Actually 2-pack plastic coating is more durable, and quicker drying, though a little bit more expensive.

Hellrazer

Originally posted by Borzoi
As Hellrazer says, for a solid wood floor, you need to put down battens (one way only though)

3) Now start laying your planks leaving about 10mm all round for expansion. You'll need to hire a secret nailer that will brive the nails in at a 45 angle on the tongue of the floor. This is hard work, you'll need beer (but not too much). Mix and match the plank lenghts so you don't have to cut much and to avoid any obvious pattern.

apply more beer.

I actually put the battens in both directions to allow for those shorter lengths that you may have to start a new row with.

As for the beer---LOL--Just remember that Hilti guns and beer dont mix.Theres still holes in the walls where we had a bit of a "mess" with a hilti gun.:):)

slave1

if you are using, say 2" batons, would also place 2" polywotsits insulation boards between the batons, for not much money would add considerable benefits

Victor

Follow the manufacturers instructions!

Originally posted by Borzoi
4) Sand the floor down -first rough, then smooth paper grades. Also hard work, but a no-brainer, apply more beer.

Sanding machines are great, but create vast clouds of dust that screw up your computer! I don't think every system need sanding (some are pre-finished).

Make sure all the joints between boards are staggered (no nee dto aplly beer for this effect)..

janeymac

There is an alternative to battens.

You can lay sheets of wood (marine ply is advised I think - any supplier will tell you) and nail the solid planks to that.
Pros: cuts out the echo-ey "clump, clump" when walking accross the floor. Personally I like that noise, but I don't know anyone else that does!
Cons: more expensive than battens

Borzoi,
you mentioned 2 pack plastic coating. What is this and where can I get it? Will it protect the wood more than Diamond Coat (Ronseal I think)? I always find myself standing in front of the tin of Diamond Coat, scratching my head and wondering if there is a better way.

btw, forget about applying beer, nothing like a bloody good Shiraz to get the boards nicely staggered

joto

It is possible to lay solid flooring as a "floating" floor on foam (same as laminate floor) but it's designed and sold as such. Its sold in blocks which are machined all round & can be glued on all edges. If you have lengths of timber flooring, it must be laid on battens, as above. Don't think plywood is good idea. Insulation between battens will cut noise & warmer. Cost extra but not much.

Borzoi

Originally posted by janeymac

Borzoi,
you mentioned 2 pack plastic coating. What is this and where can I get it? Will it protect the wood more than Diamond Coat (Ronseal I think)? I always find myself standing in front of the tin of Diamond Coat, scratching my head and wondering if there is a better way.

btw, forget about applying beer, nothing like a bloody good Shiraz to get the boards nicely staggered

Rustins clear plastic floor coating (Some details here ) It's more hard wearing and dries much quicker than a standard varnish. Ie Instead of taking four days to varnish a new floor, you'll do it in two. The disadvantage is that it is a bit pricier, it will knacker your brushes (unless you wash em out with cellulose thinners) and has a 2-part formula that needs to be stirred together.

BTW stay away from the Shiraz, you'll need plenty of fluids so beer is best, and besides red wine stains fresh wood VERY easily