Power Meter Brands

godtabh wrote: »

Any one ever use Cycle Ops PowerCal or iBike newton?

I know the limitations of the Cycleops but only just came across the iBike.

I looked at the iBike newton the other day, it calculates power based on measuring the other variables in the equation, wind speed, gradient, speed and takes estimates of rolling resistance and I guess pedal stoke efficiency to plug the equation and work out power. Obviously this approach is only as accurate as it's measurements/estimates of the other factors and tbh after reading up on it I pretty much dismissed it personally.

Going to bite the bullet on this and order a powermeter this week so just looking for some advice.

My preference is probably for the new Power2max Type S with Sram cranks. Works out at just under €1200 for crankset and bottom bracket with s900 or Force22. Using force 22 chainrings means having no chain drop pin unless I can move the pin or buy a new chain ring at another €90. If I just buy a crankset I'll get probably get the s900. I can just get 11 speed chainrings for it when I need them. I am tempted to get the force though as for €500 more I could get the complete Sram Force22 group set. Need to replace a few bits of my groupset if I'm going to race on this bike so I'll probably be spending a good bit of that anyway.

Other Power2max option is to get the older model with Rotor 3dF cranks works out at just under €1200 as well. It's tempting as it is the most versatile with different frames and bottom brackets and I do like the look of it but I prefer the look of the type s and the rotor is too pricey with this.

They are getting very close to the price of a Quarq Riken at €1300 which looks very tempting. From reading customer service and after sales with them is excellent. Using cr2032 batteries is a plus and accuracy is better. I can also get it with in a few days while I'll be waiting 3 weeks or more for Type S. I also don't like buying a brand new before it is out for a while.
At that stage spending €1500 on a Quarq sram red huge leap isn't huge leap and will save me money in future by not having to buy extra chainrings because of srams hidden bolt orientation.

I guess it really boils down to the Power2max Type S Sram €1200 vs Quarq Riken €1300 or Sram Red €1500?

I have a Rotor 3d p2m since October. It's my first powermeter and I'm delighted with it. I'm actually considering buying a second one to be honest. The reason for this is simply laziness about changing over from tt bike to winter bike to race bike. In saying that, I can swap from winter to race bike in 6/7mins without rushing it. I like the look of the type s but in reality the look v price would be a factor for me.....ie-it's the cheaper option for me! I use garmin connect and training peaks with my pm and a guy is 'helping' me understand the figures. One big thing I see is the return I get on the road/turbo. Absolutely no junk miles. In saying that I have trained in my own more or less all winter bar the weekends when I hook up with a guy who operates at similar power/weight ratio as me

A mate has a sram quarq on his winter bike and says he can't put it on his race bike(I don't know why) so he's loosing the benefit of race day analysis which seemingly is where the real numbers are visible.

You definitely won't regret buying the p2m and I went for it on the advice of a guy who went from an a2 to a1 last year as well as a few guys on this forum. I've had no problems with mine to date bar hitting over 5000w doing sprint sets. Never saw anything like it since....mores the pity boo hoo. My 2c-don't stay analysing it cause you'll never buy one. I was in the same position about which pm etc and for a finish I just went with p2m and am delighted. Happy shopping.

Smalltom wrote: »

I've had no problems with mine to date bar hitting over 5000w doing sprint sets. .

Your P2Max is broken

Ryath wrote: »

spend. When I started looking at the power2max it looked not to bad at €740-€840 but in reality when you start adding on chain rings, bolts and bottom brackets you're really looking at €1000 minimum.

Don't really understand this, the rotor 3d costs 958 with postage and comes with a 24mm axle. It fits all 3 of my bikes without any bottom bracket changes. Maybe I was lucky...

Training with power is a bit of an addiction, once you have it you'll want it all the time. Switching can be well less than 5 minutes when you don't have a chainset on the bike you are switching to. So basically you won't be using your other chainsets so you may as well take the rings off one of them. Later on at your leisure you can acquire another pair of chainrings.

godtabh wrote: »

Why dont people see stages as an alternative? The l/r balance?

i'd say because its not so visable so you'd acually have to tell someone that you have one rather than have the bling on show

dario28 wrote: »

Im looking for a powermeter that will suit both of my bikes , any idea which would work best ?

http://2012.feltracing.com/USA/2012/TT-TRI/TT-TRI-Series/B16-.aspx

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/road/road_team_carbon.html

Dont want to hijack the tread so a PM would do the trick if anyone can help !

You have a bsa threaded bb on the Felt and a BB30 pressfit on the boardman. A 24mm axle crankset will fit in the bb30 frame with the right adapters but not the other way around. The best value crank based option is the FSA gossamer from Power2max for €858 delivered
http://www.power2max.de/europe/en/Produkt/bestsellers/power2max-fsa-gossamer-road/
You can use your existing bb on the felt and you'll need a 24mm to BB30 bottom bracket for the boardman. Which is €24 from p2max. You can use your existing chain rings if you stick with a compact. You can still then use the felt crankset on either bike.

There are dearer options. They have 24m axle rotor 3d cranksets for €100 more that would have same options. After that you're on to the 30mm axle Rotor and bor that would need their own bottom brackets which are dearer and would leave you not able to use your existing crankset.

godtabh wrote: »

Do you use the same wheels for each bike? If not I'd be going for a crank based one (as stages one to be exact as I reckon they are the best bang for buck)

Stages is worth considering if you can get from US with out duty but this side of the pond is min €700. Neither of dario28 cranks are compatible with a stages crank arm so he would still have to buy a crankset which is minimum €100 probably closer to €150. I'd pay the tiny bit extra for the power2max

Got a power2max last august, no problems with it all winter. Just replaced the battery last week (the garmin 500 gave me ample warning the battery was dying). Using the fsa gossamer cranks, careful tightening them, the left crank loosened, just have to RTFM when installing them. Other than that the powermeter was plug and play- enjoy!!

harringtonp wrote: »

With RTFM presume you are referring to the correct torques ? I used a torque meter initially but I switch it so often between bikes that I do it by feel now (quicker) and hope I have it right. May go back to the torque wrench.

I cant find the fsa pdf instruction but from memory the two bolts on the left crank had to be tightened in a specific order, inner then outer or vice versa cant remember which, but this stopped weeks of left crank loosening every couple of days. The fsa pdf details the order for tightening them.

@lennymc, Are you planning to get your Powertap bearings replaced by an official Powertap agent? If so, do you mind me asking if you'll be using Paligap and if not how much you expect it to cost?

My Powertap has only been in use for a few months but the bearings are already knackered - going by online anecdotes it's a bit hit and miss as to how long they last and I definitely fall into the miss category. By all accounts it's typically the non-drive side bearing that tends to go first so I plan to replace it myself. I've already bought what should be a good quality branded (SKF) replacement bearing, now I've just got to make the time to do it. I'll let you know how it goes if you are interested, there is obviously the risk of tears and tantrums. I considered going the official route and getting it done by Paligap but I flinched at the price of £50+parts+£19.50(shipping) for what should be a routine task and what looks like it might be a frequent one too if this initial experience proves representative.

doozerie wrote: »

@lennymc, Are you planning to get your Powertap bearings replaced by an official Powertap agent? If so, do you mind me asking if you'll be using Paligap and if not how much you expect it to cost?

I was just going to get Holyboy to do them, although, depending on how you get on I might give it a go myself. Couldnt be doing all that posting it away malarky.

Hmmmm ... nothing on their blog since March last year, but this is in todays Indo :

Engineers with a bright idea invent multiple bicycle performance tracker

Brim Brothers

The founders of this company are engineers and cycling enthusiasts, with decades of experience cycling competitively at local club level.

While out on Sunday morning winter training runs, they started discussing the advantages and disadvantages of the various cycling performance trackers (known as "power meters") on the market – and decided that they could design a better one.

Unlike their competitors, Brim Brothers' device attaches to a cyclist's shoes rather than a bicycle.

This means it works even as the user moves from bike to bike.

"Most professional or serious cyclists have multiple bikes," explains chief executive Barry Redmond (pictured).

The product will hit the market in August and is already available for pre-order. Six people currently work at the Rathfarnham-based company, including four engineers.

It has been funded by four private investors alongside Enterprise Ireland.

i_surge wrote: »

I got high quality stainless bearings from VBE in the states. They can be tapped out easily from the hub shell and then pressed in with a home made bearing press (threaded bar + nuts + the right size washers). More professional tools or at least more patience needed for the freehub bearings (which don't fail as easy) which I left to the LBS. So DIY with a little patience and googling or a simple job for any good bike shop.

I’ve seen people say online that they’ve used a skewer as the threaded rod, a neat idea since the skewer is already to hand anyway.

As for removing/installing the drive-side and freehub bearings (which are #6902 bearings in my 15mm-axle SL+ hub with Campag freehub, and I believe that size is common to some of the other models too), this tool is available for #6902 sizing (video here on how to use the tool) but I’m not sure yet if there is enough clearance/access to the back of the bearings to use that specific tool.

ericzeking wrote: »

Anyone got a list of dealers for Stages PM in Ireland?

Think cyclesuperstore are distributors for Ireland

https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/showsearchresults.asp?IDBrand=381

These are the best value for most powermeters I've found in Europe

http://www.powermeter24.com/en/products/stages-power

I have had 3 powertaps in the last 10 years, upgraded each time until they went to wireless, things were cheap when they started upgrading, so I would upgrade to the previous version. I currently have the silver hub/carbon windows, wired version with the 2.4 HR strap. It has been flawless, and I changed the bearings a few months ago-just cos I wanted to do something.
I was planning on rebuilding it-the rim is starting to crack where the spokes come through. I am getting a great deal from Saris on a new G3 and joule, so I'll be selling the wheel/hub and the computer and attachments in the near future. Have to say that I have ridden the crap out of all of my powertaps and never had a problem, it's easy to change from bike to bike and I use them in low priority races and you can put a wheelcover on for use in TT's.