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Detailing chat

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  • Registered Users Posts: 15,504 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    My favourite range of polishes were the Wolfs range. Super long work time and no dust.


  • Registered Users Posts: 589 ✭✭✭Steel Dog


    Quick question, when using Tar Remover and Fallout Remover does your car need to be dry?


  • Registered Users Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Steel Dog wrote: »
    Quick question, when using Tar Remover and Fallout Remover does your car need to be dry?

    I dry it yeah but from what I'm aware of it's not too big of a deal if it's wet man


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Both will work there best if the car is dry or near dry, as it wont dilute the solution.
    Doesnt need to be bone dry. Let the car drip dry for a minute or two so most of the water is off the car, before applying.

    Dont let either of them dry out after you've applied them. Keep an eye on the side of the car that the sun is shining on, and rinse that side first.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,430 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Does fallout remove lsp? What I'm asking is if I detar and deiron should I be reapplying wax?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Both will affect wax, so you will need to reapply to ensure your protection remains!!
    Some coatings arent affected by fallout removers, but almost all will be affected in some way by tar removers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Would it be ok to use clothes washing Persil diluted to clean car carpet and mats and seats?have a wet/dry vac


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,504 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Would it be ok to use clothes washing Persil diluted to clean car carpet and mats and seats?have a wet/dry vac


    I used it before and it worked a treat with no side effects.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    vectra wrote: »
    I used it before and it worked a treat with no side effects.

    Grand going to give it a go so.
    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,967 ✭✭✭cena


    Is compound the best product to remove swirls


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    cena wrote: »
    Is compound the best product to remove swirls

    Yes. But remember, key principle is to work from least aggressive combo up to most aggressive, inspecting at each stage.
    What are you trying to do? Thai might guide the response a bit better..


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,967 ✭✭✭cena


    myshirt wrote: »
    Yes. But remember, key principle is to work from least aggressive combo up to most aggressive, inspecting at each stage.
    What are you trying to do? Thai might guide the response a bit better..

    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    cena wrote: »
    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess

    It takes quite some time for a panel to be corrected using a D/A when it's badly swirled. It's near impossible to do it by hand.

    The main thing in a correction is that heat builds up in the metal of the panel. This is key as the heat aids in the correction.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,504 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    cena wrote: »
    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess

    Compound could be a bit harsh on the Astra paint as it is a soft paint afaik.

    You could try a less agressive polish.
    Gtechniq P1 is supposed to give great results when used by hand,
    You will most likely still see swirls under lights etc. Machine polish is the only way forward to be fair. You could also give it a couple of coats of a Glaze and top it with a wax of choice.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Cena, you will significantly improve it with something like SRP or R222 with a wax on top. That should be sufficient until you can get a DA. It might even be good enough for you.

    Dip your toe into the lower end of detailing, then work your way up. You could also try 50cal Filler Glaze and Pentawax combo, available locally.
    Though for my part, I don't rate the glaze too high by hand, much, much better by DA. More of a gloss enhancing product by hand, didn't really fill swirls for me. Then again, some swirls are beyond the reach of what is the state of the car and my high expectations! How bad are the swirls on the Astra?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    It takes quite some time for a panel to be corrected using a D/A when it's badly swirled. It's near impossible to do it by hand.

    The main thing in a correction is that heat builds up in the metal of the panel. This is key as the heat aids in the correction.

    The reason why I have been reluctant to use a machine is because I have read before that a build up of heat is a bad thing?


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    *Kol* wrote: »
    The reason why I have been reluctant to use a machine is because I have read before that a build up of heat is a bad thing?

    A build-up and overheat is bad, yes but a small bit of heat is needed :)

    It's also important to remember that on a metal panel, heat will disperse but on a plastic or fibre-glass panel, it won't.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Has anybody used the Bilt Hamber foam? Is there a consensus about effectiveness of foam versus quantity and thickness of foam? I ask because the write up on the Bilt Hamber foam seems to suggest that it doesn't produce large quantities of mega thick foam and I quote "It is not designed as a superficial high foam product but as a functional material." So are some of the foams out there providing a placebo effect for people by giving them the foam that they desire? :confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yes...most people seem to think that the thickness of foam is the standard at which it is measured, when in fact its not the case. A foam should be measured on cleaning ability, if its LSP safe, and then perhaps foam thickness or dwell time.
    A foam that is like shaving foam, isnt really any help, as it doesnt run in between all the hard to reach areas.

    If you want to rate foam in fun factor, there are plenty of cheap high foaming solutions that dont do much in the way of cleaning.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Curran wrote: »
    Yes...most people seem to think that the thickness of foam is the standard at which it is measured, when in fact its not the case. A foam should be measured on cleaning ability, if its LSP safe, and then perhaps foam thickness or dwell time.
    A foam that is like shaving foam, isnt really any help, as it doesnt run in between all the hard to reach areas.

    If you want to rate foam in fun factor, there are plenty of cheap high foaming solutions that dont do much in the way of cleaning.

    Thanks for that. I guess my question really is if i should get the bilt hamber or the 50 Cal foam?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I havent had the chance to try the Bilt Hamber...but it gets very good reviews.
    Bilt Hamber are lab rats...they dont spend their time or money on marketing / hyping up their products. They spend it making quality products and let the customers spread the word. Anything I've used from them is excellent.

    That said, Combat is my current foam and I find it very good. You'd be pleased with either! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 164 ✭✭dredg


    Curran wrote: »
    I havent had the chance to try the Bilt Hamber...but it gets very good reviews.
    Bilt Hamber are lab rats...they dont spend their time or money on marketing / hyping up their products. They spend it making quality products and let the customers spread the word. Anything I've used from them is excellent.

    That said, Combat is my current foam and I find it very good. You'd be pleased with either! ;)

    I've only used Bilt Hamber Korrosol and it's really effective at removing fallout and actually smells nice. It smells kind of like cake.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭Ded_Zebra


    Just wanted to stop by and say that Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels is my favourite product at the moment and my favourite ever wheel cleaner.:cool:

    Awesome stuff, if you haven't tried it you should! Doesn't even smell that bad :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,430 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Ded_Zebra wrote: »
    Just wanted to stop by and say that Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels is my favourite product at the moment and my favourite ever wheel cleaner.:cool:

    Awesome stuff, if you haven't tried it you should! Doesn't even smell that bad :P

    Its rotten! But brilliant


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,430 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I ended up ordering a snowfoam lance online, it's with parcel motel now. Will be a while before I get to use it now though, going to have a lot on


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,967 ✭✭✭cena


    Anyone know if the ironx foam soap like snow foam. You just spray it on the car??


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    It is a snowfoam with fallout remover in it - nowhere near as concentrated as the IronX, but if used every few washes, it will help keep the car becoming so contaminated


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,504 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Curran wrote: »
    It is a snowfoam with fallout remover in it - nowhere near as concentrated as the IronX, but if used every few washes, it will help keep the car becoming so contaminated


    LSP friendly?
    I am assuming regular use would harm the LSP?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Safe for their coatings. Probably not ideal for traditional LSPs, but not as damaging as TFRs for example.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Is there anything that is truely lsp safe and also excellent in it's performance :pac:


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