Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

The Last Bandit · 13-11-2012 12:26pm

Anything that leaks a bit and smells funny is usually a bit sign - including old relations.

Myrddin · 13-11-2012 12:29pm

It can also be resin on the board burning away

Dale Parish · 13-11-2012 2:25pm

Hmm that's also a possibility.. Seems that the leakage is coming from within the cap though, strange... Is there a way to test caps? 50v 1000uF

Myrddin · 13-11-2012 2:28pm

Dale Parish wrote: »

Hmm that's also a possibility.. Seems that the leakage is coming from within the cap though, strange... Is there a way to test caps? 50v 1000uF

If its coming from the cap, just replace it...once you see signs of leakage you should replace immediately before any damage is done

Dale Parish · 13-11-2012 3:41pm

EnterNow wrote: »

If its coming from the cap, just replace it...once you see signs of leakage you should replace immediately before any damage is done

Yeah I'll fly down to Maplin now and get a few spares.. Waiting on those spare resistors from radionics so thanks for that!

I'v ordered some alcohol (by it's chemical name... iso-something-or-other) to clean off the burn

MrVestek · 13-11-2012 5:07pm

Dale Parish wrote: »

Yeah I'll fly down to Maplin now and get a few spares.. Waiting on those spare resistors from radionics so thanks for that!

I'v ordered some alcohol (by it's chemical name... iso-something-or-other) to clean off the burn

Isopropinol?

Myrddin · 13-11-2012 5:08pm

Methylamine?

Dale Parish · 13-11-2012 5:16pm

Achilles wrote: »

Isopropinol?

Yeah that stuff!
I just hope it's burn and not burned PCB

The Last Bandit · 13-11-2012 5:19pm

Carlsberg ?

Dale Parish · 14-11-2012 5:27pm

The closest thing I can get to 1000uF at 50v is 1000uF at 63v... Will this make a significant difference? I'd rather not put it in if there's a chance of damaging ICs...

The Last Bandit · 14-11-2012 5:39pm

Dale Parish wrote: »

The closest thing I can get to 1000uF at 50v is 1000uF at 63v... Will this make a significant difference? I'd rather not put it in if there's a chance of damaging ICs...

Using a higher voltage rating electrolytic cap is fine (within reason). The 63v should be about the same size as the older 50v one as well.

Myrddin · 14-11-2012 5:42pm

The Last Bandit wrote: »

Using a higher voltage rating electrolytic cap is fine (within reason). The 63v should be about the same size as the older 50v one as well.

Agreed, its fine. I done two cap kits on my arcade monitor chassis' & sometimes they give you a higher rated one if the exact one isn't available

richie_os · 30-11-2012 8:47pm

Hey, not sure if this is the right thread or not but could anyone tell me the best place to get a power supply for a megadrive?

Myrddin · 20-01-2013 9:36pm

Has anyone got a proven Retrobrite recipe they're willing to share?

Edit - actually I forgot you really need a UV lamp setup for it to work. Can anyone give a console of mine the retrobrite treatment instead??

MrVestek · 21-01-2013 1:30pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Has anyone got a proven Retrobrite recipe they're willing to share?

Edit - actually I forgot you really need a UV lamp setup for it to work. Can anyone give a console of mine the retrobrite treatment instead??

Isn't leaving it out in sunlight supposed to work?

Maragenie · 21-01-2013 1:42pm

How's things.

This mightn't be the best place to ask this question but at this point I'm desperate. I have this old NSM jukebox that I bought off Ebay there going back a few years, Jukebox was working perfect when I received it but soon after mounting it on the wall it started to smoke out and hasn't worked since.

I'm getting power and all that but the CD starts up and spin the wrong way, then they stop and I get an error message.

Does anyone know where or who I might talk to in terms of getting it repaired?

All the best

Mara :P

Myrddin · 21-01-2013 2:03pm

Achilles wrote: »

Isn't leaving it out in sunlight supposed to work?

Have you looked outside lately?

MrVestek · 21-01-2013 2:05pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Have you looked outside lately?

What is this outside of which you speak?

Steve X2 · 21-01-2013 2:07pm

I've tried a few different mixes of retr0brite. Not made one up in a while now but the standard mix works well in my experience (depending on what you're cleaning up that is).
I've a UV lamp thing I use for the job that you can borrow if you like Enternow.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel

Myrddin · 21-01-2013 2:27pm

Steve SI wrote: »

I've tried a few different mixes of retr0brite. Not made one up in a while now but the standard mix works well in my experience (depending on what you're cleaning up that is).
I've a UV lamp thing I use for the job that you can borrow if you like Enternow.

http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/Retr0Bright+Gel

Cool, will have a look into the process & procuring the ingredients. Cheers for the offer of the lamp too man

badger57 · 23-01-2013 2:15am

Hi, not sure if this is the correct place to post this, apologies if not!

Just want to know what sort of connections are needed on a TV for a Sega Mega Drive 2?

I'd be playing it on an LCD with antenna/scart/s-video ports etc. Would it work with these connections or are others required?

MrVestek · 23-01-2013 9:33am

badger57 wrote: »

Hi, not sure if this is the correct place to post this, apologies if not!

Just want to know what sort of connections are needed on a TV for a Sega Mega Drive 2?

I'd be playing it on an LCD with antenna/scart/s-video ports etc. Would it work with these connections or are others required?

I'd get an RGB scart cable if I were you. Trying to play it in RF will make your eyes bleed.

badger57 · 23-01-2013 10:22am

Achilles wrote: »

I'd get an RGB scart cable if I were you. Trying to play it in RF will make your eyes bleed.

Would an ordinary scart cable with a port connection suffice or do I need to buy a specific one for the Mega Drive?

o1s1n · 23-01-2013 11:32am

badger57 wrote: »

Would an ordinary scart cable with a port connection suffice or do I need to buy a specific one for the Mega Drive?

You need a specific Megadrive RGB scart cable. It has a din connection on the back.

They're not expensive, usually about 10 - 15.

Just keep in mind that the Megadrive 1 and the Megadrive 2 have different sized connections. So make sure you buy the correct one for the correct model.

The picture quality really does look beautiful through RGB. You'll be pleasantly surprised when you see it

MrVestek · 23-01-2013 12:17pm

I have a spare RGB scart cable for a model 2 mega drive... I'll swap you a game or two for it.

badger57 · 23-01-2013 3:11pm

o1s1n wrote: »

You need a specific Megadrive RGB scart cable. It has a din connection on the back.

They're not expensive, usually about 10 - 15.

Just keep in mind that the Megadrive 1 and the Megadrive 2 have different sized connections. So make sure you buy the correct one for the correct model.

The picture quality really does look beautiful through RGB. You'll be pleasantly surprised when you see it

Are these available in any electrical shops or do I have to use Amazon?

Achilles wrote: »

I have a spare RGB scart cable for a model 2 mega drive... I'll swap you a game or two for it.

Sorry, don't live anywhere near Dublin, thanks anyway!

The Last Bandit · 23-01-2013 3:15pm

badger57 wrote: »

Are these available in any electrical shops or do I have to use Amazon?

You'll need to order online I'm afraid. Consolegoods.co.uk should have them.

30-01-2013 11:28am

In case it's of interest to anyone here before i bin it, i have a Slim PS2 plus power adapter which i think has blown a fuse. I plugged it in recently and the power light came on for a second then went dead. As far as i know everything else on it is fine, laser, disc drive, etc. Might be useful for parts or an easy repair job.

If anybody wants it let me know, otherwise I'll chuck it. No charge for boardsies of course...

elfy4eva · 16-02-2013 11:39pm

Hey all got a used SNES for free today. The guy
who I got it off said he wasnt sure if it was
working or not. I was happy to take it and have a
look either way.

I wasn't expecting it to work at all
but when I plugged her in she came on.
Unfortunately thats where the luck ended,
the console loads my 2 SNES
games but it loads them really glitchy.

The lower half of the screen on my Prince of Persia
game loads as glitchy boxes and
text. However the upper half of the screen
looks superb. The game itself is Fine
It runs clear as crystal on my friends
working console, And i've even cleaned the
game itself just to be sure and it loads the same.

I've had a go of cleaning the pins in the console but
That doesnt seem to have had any effect either.

What do you guys think? Is there any hope for giving
this super little console a new lease of life or has it all but
kicked it?

Dale Parish · 16-02-2013 11:45pm

Any images?
Normally random charachters printing on the screen is a bad ROM chip (it is in old computers anyway... cannot be 100% sure as I'v not done a SNES repair except for a new fuse solder so I don't know too much about the PCB inside).
It's probably replaceable if it is one of those chips that is causing the problem

elfy4eva · 16-02-2013 11:48pm

Dale Parish wrote: »

Any images?
Normally random charachters printing on the screen is a bad ROM chip (it is in old computers anyway... cannot be 100% sure as I'v not done a SNES repair except for a new fuse solder so I don't know too much about the PCB inside).
It's probably replaceable if it is one of those chips that is causing the problem

Not yet but have a digital camera here will post some in a sec.

o1s1n · 16-02-2013 11:50pm

Still sounds like the contacts on the cart slot are dirty. A good way of cleaning them is to get a cloth, put it on a credit card, dip it in some cleaning solution and use that to clean out the slot.

elfy4eva · 16-02-2013 11:57pm

Hey yea I have been giving a go at the credit card
trick for a while though I admit I dont have the
recommended rubbing alcohol on hand. Here's
what It looks like when it loads to the title screen.
See what ya make of it.

o1s1n · 17-02-2013 12:23am

Eeek! That looks a lot worse than dirty contacts alright! With dirty contacts you tend to either just get a black screen on boot or some garbled graphics - but not half the screen like that.

Does the game run as normal, just with a glitchy mess down the bottom like that yeah? I can't say I've ever seen that before, usually Super Nintendos just always work!

elfy4eva · 17-02-2013 12:26am

Yea It goes right into the game. The screen is equally as garbled in game. Same thing though the top half is pristine and the bottom half is ****e!

Dale Parish · 17-02-2013 1:05am

You will find that more than likley the suspect chip will get hot(er) than the others

TheStook · 18-03-2013 10:41pm

Figure this is best here..

Does anyone know what to do when the memory in the Pokemon games go? I recently got a few off a friend and the battery is most of them are gone.

Thanks in advance!

o1s1n · 18-03-2013 11:18pm

New battery!

If it's like other battery backed up carts, remove the battery from the connector and attach another one.

If you can't solder, you can remove it with a knife and tape another one on.

If there's no battery and it's some kind of RAM save feature, you're boned

TheStook · 19-03-2013 3:24am

o1s1n wrote: »

New battery!

If it's like other battery backed up carts, remove the battery from the connector and attach another one.

If you can't solder, you can remove it with a knife and tape another one on.

If there's no battery and it's some kind of RAM save feature, you're boned

I'd have no clue how to do that tbh, but as long as it is possible to replace them I'm sure I'll learn.
Its just Pokemon crystal/silver on Gameboy colour fyi

Thanks

19-03-2013 5:14am

TheStook wrote: »

I'd have no clue how to do that tbh, but as long as it is possible to replace them I'm sure I'll learn.
Its just Pokemon crystal/silver on Gameboy colour fyi

Thanks

http://youtu.be/RsROHA7RUCQ

good tutorial here, handy enough without any soldering involved

bitburger · 29-03-2013 2:51am

is surgical spirits the same as rubbing alcohol? wikipedia seems to think so, have a fairly big bottle from when i was healing my stretched lobes until i found out its not good to use, availible in most chemists here.

elfy4eva · 29-03-2013 3:38pm

Quick one for you guys again, I had to replace the fuse in the power supply circuit in my old Playstation 1. The only fuses I was able to find that fit were 1 Amp ones the packet said they were made for shavers.

The Playstation seems to run fine with it anyway but as i'm not really an electronics buff I don't know if It's the wrong type or what. I certainly don't want to do any damage to it.

Myrddin · 29-03-2013 5:30pm

elfy4eva wrote: »

Quick one for you guys again, I had to replace the fuse in the power supply circuit in my old Playstation 1. The only fuses I was able to find that fit were 1 Amp ones the packet said they were made for shavers.

The Playstation seems to run fine with it anyway but as i'm not really an electronics buff I don't know if It's the wrong type or what. I certainly don't want to do any damage to it.

You should always use a replacement fuse thats the same value as the original. If this fuse is rated too high, it won't do its job in the event of a problem & it could not only be bad for the console, but potentially dangerous too {fire}. If the value is too low, then the fuse can blow under normal operating conditions

elfy4eva · 29-03-2013 8:44pm

EnterNow wrote: »

You should always use a replacement fuse thats the same value as the original. If this fuse is rated too high, it won't do its job in the event of a problem & it could not only be bad for the console, but potentially dangerous too {fire}. If the value is too low, then the fuse can blow under normal operating conditions

Yes right you are knew that much.

However the problem is that the original fuse doesn't have an Amp marking on it!

I suppose my question should be,

What Amp fuse does an Original Playstation 1's power supply take.

Myrddin · 29-03-2013 9:47pm

What model PS1 is it?

elfy4eva · 29-03-2013 10:10pm

The model Number is SCPH-5552 it's the Bigger original style one

wnolan1992 · 18-06-2013 4:19pm

I'm finally getting around to fixing my NES. I've swapped out the 72 pin connector, but I've encountered a new issue..

Games won't work unless I hold them down with my finger. For example, when I click the game into place, nothing happens. But when I press it down as far as the tray will go it does work...

Anyone encountered this before? Everything's screwed in the way it should be as far as I can tell...

This video shows the problem, but he doesn't actually show how to fix it.

Myrddin · 18-06-2013 4:25pm

Something similar happened mine, a brand new 72 pin connector & it still wasn't right. What I did, was to leave the screws loose that hold the connector in place, place a game in {top cover off the NES} & find the position that the game works in. Only then, with the game cart still in place, did I tighten the connector screws. It works now but its a very tight fit for game carts for some reason

MrVestek · 25-06-2013 9:54am

So after receiving a Sega Saturn with a dodgy PSU off eBay recently I ended up with two Sega Saturns both in various states of repair.

I contacted a guy a while ago on the AssemblerGames forum, lovely Hungarian bloke.

Anyway he sent me a replacement PSU for a very reasonable price (€10).
So after a bit of fiddling last night after arriving home from work IT'S ALIVE!

The Action Replay 4 in 1 works beautifully on it too.

Some pics:

Sitting down to swap out the PSU:

It's alive!

US Copy of Sonic R loaded via Action Replay 4 in 1 (my god I had purged how awful this game is from my memory)

Japanese copy of Puzzle Bobble 2 - I'm in love with this simple game right now:

Happy now that I finally have a fully working Sega Saturn.

*edit*

Anybody have any need for a broken Sega Saturn PSU? No idea what's wrong with it but probably easy enough for someone with soldering skills to fix.

wnolan1992 · 25-06-2013 5:54pm

EnterNow wrote: »

Something similar happened mine, a brand new 72 pin connector & it still wasn't right. What I did, was to leave the screws loose that hold the connector in place, place a game in {top cover off the NES} & find the position that the game works in. Only then, with the game cart still in place, did I tighten the connector screws. It works now but its a very tight fit for game carts for some reason

Yeah, tried that and it seemed to work, but something went wrong between screwing down the tray and putting the whole thing back together because now the console won't even switch on. I think I may have killed it. :P

Arcade & Retro Repairs & Mods, all new recipe, with no added MSG...

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