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Comments

  • #752
    Sashmo
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Sashmo


    I've been looking at lots of stoves recently. I've finally decided on a Hunter 80b. Does anyone have any experience with one of these before I finally go ahead?
    The house is a large bungalow with 14 rads.


  • #753
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Sashmo wrote: »
    I've been looking at lots of stoves recently. I've finally decided on a Hunter 80b. Does anyone have any experience with one of these before I finally go ahead?
    The house is a large bungalow with 14 rads.

    Hi three reviews here.

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/hunter-stoves/hunter-herald-80b-boiler-stove.html

    Don't have any direct experience but the hunter stoves are not the best for quality. Personally myself I like the sound of the aarrow EB18HE Check if the room output is the same etc.

    Edit. just looked 10kw to room 16kw to water for the hunter, It's too expensive too. I personally would consider this instead. Quicker heat up more modern heating performance design.
    http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb18-he.html
    http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/aarrow-stratford-eco-18-he-multifuel-woodburning-boiler-stove-p-6895.html

    Stove Fan:)


  • #754
    Gerard93
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    Hi all,
    I have a stove about 3 years old, the circular grate is buckling badly, I am trying to get a replacement grate, any shops, I enquire from are looking for a make and model if possible. I cannot find the documentation that came with it and the shop I bought it from has ceased trading. Any ideas from attached pictures what make/model this stove is??? Thanks.


  • #755
    Sashmo
    Registered Users Posts: 43 ✭Sashmo


    Thanks for your reply. I've read the three customer reviews one disappointed and two content!
    I've taken a look at the stoves you recommended. I'm just not mad about the appearance. This was something I liked about the Hunter. Well we're going to be looking at it for years to come. Sure it's pricey. If I was lucky not to be the one customer disappointed ... would it be worth it for ticking all the boxes.
    Sorry if I sound like I'm asking for advice but going to do it my way. It's that we've looked at so many stoves by now they're all beginning to look really ugly!
    Thanks.


  • #756
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Sashmo wrote: »
    Thanks for your reply. I've read the three customer reviews one disappointed and two content!
    I've taken a look at the stoves you recommended. I'm just not mad about the appearance. This was something I liked about the Hunter. Well we're going to be looking at it for years to come. Sure it's pricey. If I was lucky not to be the one customer disappointed ... would it be worth it for ticking all the boxes.
    Sorry if I sound like I'm asking for advice but going to do it my way. It's that we've looked at so many stoves by now they're all beginning to look really ugly!
    Thanks.

    Everyone has different requirements in a stove and as it's you who has to like it then it's your personal choice:D It's a good job everyone likes different things otherwise it would get very expensive due to demand:)

    Stove Fan:)


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  • #757
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Gerard93 wrote: »
    Hi all,
    I have a stove about 3 years old, the circular grate is buckling badly, I am trying to get a replacement grate, any shops, I enquire from are looking for a make and model if possible. I cannot find the documentation that came with it and the shop I bought it from has ceased trading. Any ideas from attached pictures what make/model this stove is??? Thanks.

    Hi just did a search for it on the www.

    Its made by Evergreen and is a poplar model. Your hearth isn't deep enough!!

    See http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/evergreen-st0406-poplar-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-528.html
    Can't help with spares here but worth a look on google.ie as well.
    http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/evergreen-stove-spares-c-237_238.html
    http://www.google.co.uk/#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=evergreen+stoves+spares&oq=evergreen+stoves&aq=3&aqi=g4&aql=&gs_l=hp.1.3.0l4.1483l6383l0l11025l16l13l0l3l3l0l1334l4092l0j8j0j1j7-2l14l0.frgbld.&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&fp=f50007041a11e111&biw=1311&bih=599

    Stove Fan:)


  • #758
    doniepony
    Registered Users Posts: 89 ✭✭doniepony


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) It's a misconception that bends in a flue are good when in fact a straight flue is the best. One where you can see daylight when looked up.

    Are you saying that the flue goes vertical then bends left or right then vertically up and another bend on that and then vertical? Any chance of drawing it in paint or describing the layout exactly?

    Is this clay lined? If it is I would be seriously tempted to line it with a stainless steel flexi liner. The bends depending how well the liners were installed could trap soot at each join. The liner is the better job in this case and make sweeping easier.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks Stovefan,

    Yes, there will be a 6-8 stove connector from the stove to the clay liners. There are clay liners all the way up then with 2 turns, the first is a 45 degree bend right near the top of the first floor ceiling but as I wanted to put in a window in an upstairs bathroom I had to put another smaller turn (not sure exactly what angle) at concrete slab level.

    I suppose thats why I am a bit worried- if a flue liner with vermiculite would help then I would do it. I am also a bit worried about not getting enough draw up the chimney.

    What do you think Stovefan and thanks again for taking the time to reply.


  • #759
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    doniepony wrote: »
    Thanks Stovefan,

    Yes, there will be a 6-8 stove connector from the stove to the clay liners. There are clay liners all the way up then with 2 turns, the first is a 45 degree bend right near the top of the first floor ceiling but as I wanted to put in a window in an upstairs bathroom I had to put another smaller turn (not sure exactly what angle) at concrete slab level.

    I suppose thats why I am a bit worried- if a flue liner with vermiculite would help then I would do it. I am also a bit worried about not getting enough draw up the chimney.

    What do you think Stovefan and thanks again for taking the time to reply.

    Hi:) I would definately line the flue and backfill with vermiculite if you can go the extra.
    It will help the draw on the flue and make sweeping a doddle. No chance of any tar seeping out either with the liner.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #760
    Gerard93
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    Thanks Stove Fan, will have a look at those links.
    Your hearth isn't deep enough!!

    What do you mean by this, whats the alternative, appreciate your suggestions?


  • #761
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Gerard93 wrote: »
    Thanks Stove Fan, will have a look at those links.



    What do you mean by this, whats the alternative, appreciate your suggestions?

    Hi:) What your stove is sitting on should extend forward at least 9 inches infront of a closed stove and 6 inches either side. This is to protect the floor of falling embers from opening the door and the stove from heating up the floor too much. You could just get a piece of marble/granite cut and cement it down infront of the current piece.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • #762
    Gerard93
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 365 ✭✭Gerard93


    Hismile.gif What your stove is sitting on should extend forward at least 9 inches infront of a closed stove and 6 inches either side. This is to protect the floor of falling embers from opening the door and the stove from heating up the floor too much. You could just get a piece of marble/granite cut and cement it down infront of the current piece./QUOTE]

    Thanks Stove Fan, will a look into that ;)


  • #763
    Ayla
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,508 ✭✭✭Ayla


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) What your stove is sitting on should extend forward at least 9 inches infront of a closed stove and 6 inches either side. This is to protect the floor of falling embers from opening the door and the stove from heating up the floor too much. You could just get a piece of marble/granite cut and cement it down infront of the current piece.

    Stove Fan:)

    Were you making the hearth comment seperate to the grate query (i.e.: just as an aside, or did you think the grate buckled b/c the hearth's too small)?

    I question this b/c our hearth is enormous - both in front & on either side of our stove, and our 4-yr old grate has recently buckled. Wondering if the grate buckling is something w/ Evergreen b/c our stove is an Evergreen (not same model). We didn't think the buckling was even possible (we never burn our fires that hot) and now have to track down a replacement...if it's something w/ Evergreen I wonder if they would have some form of guarantee? The retail shop we bought from is long out of business so it's anyone's guess.

    EDIT: Looking back over the thread (this is my first visit here), Stove Fan you really seem to know your stuff. We're in a desperate fix for the draw of our stove & have some pretty complicated specs to deal with. Would it be ok for me to PM you for some help?


  • #764
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Ayla wrote: »
    Were you making the hearth comment seperate to the grate query (i.e.: just as an aside, or did you think the grate buckled b/c the hearth's too small)?

    I question this b/c our hearth is enormous - both in front & on either side of our stove, and our 4-yr old grate has recently buckled. Wondering if the grate buckling is something w/ Evergreen b/c our stove is an Evergreen (not same model). We didn't think the buckling was even possible (we never burn our fires that hot) and now have to track down a replacement...if it's something w/ Evergreen I wonder if they would have some form of guarantee? The retail shop we bought from is long out of business so it's anyone's guess.

    EDIT: Looking back over the thread (this is my first visit here), Stove Fan you really seem to know your stuff. We're in a desperate fix for the draw of our stove & have some pretty complicated specs to deal with. Would it be ok for me to PM you for some help?

    Hi:) It was a seperate bit of advice. Whatever the hearth size is won't affect the grate in the stove.
    Generally the grate, firebricks, door glass, fire rope seals are classed as a consumable and so are only quaranteed for a year.

    By all means PM me, and if I can help I will.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #765
    Kirm2
    Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Kirm2


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    I'm very sorry to hear of your bad experiance with the stove fitters. Don't be too put off as youll love your stove when you have it:) I can't help with installers here as I'm a plumber and fitted my own. At least the fitters have admitted there is a problem and is coming to re do the damage.

    An insert stove sounds like the best plan and takes about 4 hours work in a good condition chimney and flat fronted fireplace. This slope at the back sounds like the clay fireback. Some inset stoves are designed to leave this in place and some you have to chop it out. Either way it shouldn't of been a disaster:mad:

    If you could PM or post a photo of your fireplace I'll advice on the best course of action:)

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks so much for your advise, sincerely appreciated. I've been thinking long and hard about it and I am afraid to go for another insert now as this one was such a disaster. We have been discussing the Oisin or the Oscar. My room is a strange sharp L shape. My sitting room where the stove will be is 13x12 (stove will be 5.5 feet away from couch) with a double door sized arch opening to diningroom/kitchen which is 12x20. Baring in mind that we sit 5.5ft away from where the stove will be.. I don't want the stove to be so huge that this part of the room will be too hot that we can't sit here. Do you have any suggestions or tips as to what would suit?


  • #766
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Kirm2 wrote: »
    Thanks so much for your advise, sincerely appreciated. I've been thinking long and hard about it and I am afraid to go for another insert now as this one was such a disaster. We have been discussing the Oisin or the Oscar. My room is a strange sharp L shape. My sitting room where the stove will be is 13x12 (stove will be 5.5 feet away from couch) with a double door sized arch opening to diningroom/kitchen which is 12x20. Baring in mind that we sit 5.5ft away from where the stove will be.. I don't want the stove to be so huge that this part of the room will be too hot that we can't sit here. Do you have any suggestions or tips as to what would suit?

    Hi no problem:)

    Your sitting room would require around 2.5kw to heat it and your Dining room/kitchen 4kw. I presume this arch is open? If so get a stove under 7kw. If you only want to take the chill off the kitchen then a stove of 5kw or under would be ideal. At least under 5kw no ventilation required if your house isn't very airtight.

    Out of the two I think the Oisin looks good and seems popular here.
    I personally though would fit a woodwarm stove or their fireview 6.5kw insert stove if I could go the extra.
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/stove-reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c73/
    http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=woodwarm+stoves
    My next stove will be a woodwarm:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • #767
    Kirm2
    Registered Users Posts: 138 ✭✭Kirm2


    Thanks so much Stovefan - you knowledge is absolutely invaluable.

    I'll definitely look into the woodwarm.


  • #768
    bultaco
    Registered Users Posts: 12 ✭bultaco


    Stove blues : Closed System

    Could anyone recommend a boiler stove (around 17KW to 20 KW) that could be used in a closed system i.e. without a tank in the attic ?

    Building a house in Germany but I just can't seem to find a nice stove here and they don't have a decent KW output as far as I can see.

    Any info would be greatly appreciated !


    best,
    Bultcao,


  • #769
    heinbloed
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Bultaco wrote:
    Could anyone recommend a boiler stove (around 17KW to 20 KW) that could be used in a closed system i.e. without a tank in the attic ?

    Building a house in Germany but I just can't seem to find a nice stove here and they don't have a decent KW output as far as I can see.

    Contact the civil engineer or architect. There are a lot of rules in Germany to be considered.
    "Decent kW output(-s)" are illegal, the energy demand for new builds musts be calculated (for example with EN12831).
    Self installs are illegal (above 7 kW).
    Tank-fed tin cans you'll hardly find in Germany, most boilers are pressurised.

    At least two official trades have to sign-off and comission the first installation:the chimney sweep (Schornsteinfeger) and the heating system installer(Heizungsbauer).

    There are only very large new buildings with a thermal energy demand you have mentioned. I wonder if there is some professional involved in the project? This would be the right person to contact.

    Boiler = Heizungskessel
    Boiler which looks like a stove = Ofen mit Wassertasche

    A thread opened by me in this forum (now locked,vested interests) leads to the latest EU regulations concerning pressurised systems ( from 0.5 bar).
    This EU directive is legally binding for the entire EU since last year, in Germany similar legislations are legally binding since more than 100 years.
    The TUeV was founded by boiler manufacturers after all.

    In short: the standard boiler stove installations as usually done in Ireland are illegal. But that was the reason why this thread (about the EU boiler directive)was locked. Most installers would end-up in the courts declaring themself bankrupt. Many homes would have no legal heating system, being worthless assets. Poor Nama, poor banks, poor plumbers.

    So contact professionals in Germany, the Baukammer/Handwerkskammer/your planner will have plenty of adresses.


    PS
    Here the link to the locked thread:

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=77130084


  • #770
    RubyGirl
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,275 ✭✭✭RubyGirl


    Is it easy enough to get a replacement seal for around the door of a stove. Ours gone and the stove is now burning to quickly.

    Place since closed down where we got it.


  • #771
    heinbloed
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Ruby Girl wrote:
    Is it easy enough to get a replacement seal for around the door of a stove. Ours gone and the stove is now burning to quickly.

    Yes. Most stove/boiler outlets and plumbing shops have the material. Bring the old one with you, there are different diameters and qualities.

    Since vitreous fibres are carcinogenic ask for the product safety data sheet as well, the trader must be able to provide the client with it.


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  • #772
    a.tuijs
    Registered Users Posts: 1 ✭a.tuijs


    I am intending on installing a multifuel stove with boiler (to heat rads and hot water) in my sitting room which is 4m x 5,8m. I have 14 rads which include one towel rails. I have some double rads which I have counted as two.
    The rad dimensions are as follows
    1x 50cm x 52cm (Double)
    2x 100cm x 52
    1x 130cm x 52
    1x 80cm x 52
    1x 50cm x 52
    1x 90cm x 52 (Double)
    2x 148cm x 52 (double)
    1 x 120cm x 50 towel rails

    I had been considering Boru Th carraig Mor 20kw

    I would appreciate any advice or ideas that you can give. I have been looking at stoves for ages and the little more i know the more confused i get. I really would like to make a decision soon.

    Many thanks.


  • #773
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    a.tuijs wrote: »
    I am intending on installing a multifuel stove with boiler (to heat rads and hot water) in my sitting room which is 4m x 5,8m. I have 14 rads which include one towel rails. I have some double rads which I have counted as two.
    The rad dimensions are as follows
    1x 50cm x 52cm (Double)
    2x 100cm x 52
    1x 130cm x 52
    1x 80cm x 52
    1x 50cm x 52
    1x 90cm x 52 (Double)
    2x 148cm x 52 (double)
    1 x 120cm x 50 towel rails

    I had been considering Boru Th carraig Mor 20kw


    I would appreciate any advice or ideas that you can give. I have been looking at stoves for ages and the little more i know the more confused i get. I really would like to make a decision soon.

    Many thanks.



    Hi based on those radiator sizes and numbers and your hot water requirements your looking for a boiler stove with a rated boiler output of 15kw to water and 4-5kw max to room.

    The carraig mor 20kw looks a good option as it has 16kw to water and 4kw to room. I have no direct experience of these stoves though.

    There is this also but I don't know if they are any good. glenmore-20b-boiler-stove 15kw to water and 5kw to room.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #774
    Jsf
    Closed Accounts Posts: 5 ✭Jsf


    your stove is an Evergreen stove also known as a Mazona
    You can ring Micon Distrubution in Lisburn 028 92620880 and they will give you a number for the neariest skockist


  • #775
    bultaco
    Registered Users Posts: 12 ✭bultaco


    heinbloed wrote: »
    Bultaco wrote:



    Contact the civil engineer or architect. There are a lot of rules in Germany to be considered.
    "Decent kW output(-s)" are illegal, the energy demand for new builds musts be calculated (for example with EN12831).
    Self installs are illegal (above 7 kW).
    Tank-fed tin cans you'll hardly find in Germany, most boilers are pressurised.

    At least two official trades have to sign-off and comission the first installation:the chimney sweep (Schornsteinfeger) and the heating system installer(Heizungsbauer).

    There are only very large new buildings with a thermal energy demand you have mentioned. I wonder if there is some professional involved in the project? This would be the right person to contact.

    Boiler = Heizungskessel
    Boiler which looks like a stove = Ofen mit Wassertasche

    A thread opened by me in this forum (now locked,vested interests) leads to the latest EU regulations concerning pressurised systems ( from 0.5 bar).
    This EU directive is legally binding for the entire EU since last year, in Germany similar legislations are legally binding since more than 100 years.
    The TUeV was founded by boiler manufacturers after all.

    In short: the standard boiler stove installations as usually done in Ireland are illegal. But that was the reason why this thread (about the EU boiler directive)was locked. Most installers would end-up in the courts declaring themself bankrupt. Many homes would have no legal heating system, being worthless assets. Poor Nama, poor banks, poor plumbers.

    So contact professionals in Germany, the Baukammer/Handwerkskammer/your planner will have plenty of adresses.


    PS
    Here the link to the locked thread:

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=77130084



    Hi heinbloed,


    Thanks for all that....we have a heating expert but he doesnt know too much about stoves. In Munich there are stoves but they are all narrow and tall and all about 7kw,

    The ones in Ireland and the Uk are much nicer but they have no tank in the attic and they are a closed system.

    Also a pressurised system ,solid fuel, double sided, inset is hard to find :(


  • #776
    heinbloed
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    @ bultaco:

    Munich has large magazine shops(Kiosks, Bahnhofsbuchhandel, Flughafenshop) where there are plenty of architecture, home energy and specialised stove magazins available. As in any major city. Ask in the shops for "Energiemagazine", "Heizungsmagazine".
    There are dozens of them available, whole shelfs with only energy and heating issues. They'll have the nice pictures and the technical data as well.
    Don't trust a planner who doesn't know how to heat a house with a boiler stove. Check the yellow pages (gelbe Seiten) or ask at the chamber of trades(Handwerkskammer) for energy planners,-advisors (Energieplaner, Energieberater) stove builders (Ofenbauer) and -propably the best- for Heating builders(Heizungsbauer).

    All serious trades will ask for an energy demand calculation and the drawings of the structure.

    Munich has so called enviroment zones(Umweltzonen), these demand strict limitations of pollutants. New builds (and old builds as well in a timed modus) have to adhere to BimSchVer (Bundesimissionschutzverordnung) 3, maybe a stove isn't allowed at all in the area.
    The local planners (via the Baugenehmigung) will decide on this.

    Contact the local Baukammer/Architektenkammer to get a planner able to do the job. As said: the energy provision of a building is part of the planning permission.Your friends in Munich very likely will have contacts or be able to help you.

    PS
    Building controls in Munich are strict, a nodd-and-install approach is not recommended.


  • #777
    yvonneekelly
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭yvonneekelly


    Hi am looking for advice i am putting in a free standing stove 10kg the more i look the more confused i am.Why do the prices vary so much i know the boiler ones are more expensive but even the prices on the free standing ones go from 400 to 2,000. i also need some advice i was told it is better to use my chimney instead of a flue so i decided to get my chimney checked some one came out today and told me he would clean it and inspect the chimney for a 150euro i thought this was expensive or am i out of touch with the cost of things. I would be so grateful if someone could answer these questions. Thanks Yvonne


  • #778
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    yvonneekelly wrote: »
    Hi am looking for advice i am putting in a free standing stove 10kg the more i look the more confused i am.Why do the prices vary so much i know the boiler ones are more expensive but even the prices on the free standing ones go from 400 to 2,000. i also need some advice i was told it is better to use my chimney instead of a flue so i decided to get my chimney checked some one came out today and told me he would clean it and inspect the chimney for a 150euro i thought this was expensive or am i out of touch with the cost of things. I would be so grateful if someone could answer these questions. Thanks Yvonne

    Hi with regards to price of stoves it really depends on the quality and where they are manufactured. Thehigher price reflects the quality and the brand that you are buying into. While cheaper budget cast iron stoves reflect cheaper materials and generally cast in China.

    It really depends on your budget and weather you wan't cheap and cheerfull or spend more and get a known brand that functions very well and is made out of better quality materials.
    You do get what you pay for.

    See this website for stove reviews. www.whatstove.co.uk

    I can't comment on the chimney inspection and sweeping cost as I sweep my own but my advice is to get other quotes over the phone and get them to smoke test the chimney after they have swept it.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #779
    guinness queen
    Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Dear Stove Fan,
    I am back again, had a fire in my chimney a few months ago, so thought it was a very expensive way to clean the chimney. I have had a fire going in it since. Now I decided before putting in my 904/904 flue, which you recommended some time ago, that I would sweep it last week-end. I thought it was unflued, but the chimney sweep man managed to dislodge a part of a flue which we think is asbestos, maybe not. Now I do not know if there are more flues up there and if so can the stainless steel flexi be put through this other existing flue. I imagine it will be problematic to remove an asbestos flue if it exists. It will be backfilled with vermiculite. Please I should be most grateful for any advice that you have to give me. Once again you are worth your weight in gold.
    many thanks


  • #780
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    guinness queen wrote: »
    Dear Stove Fan,
    I am back again, had a fire in my chimney a few months ago, so thought it was a very expensive way to clean the chimney. I have had a fire going in it since. Now I decided before putting in my 904/904 flue, which you recommended some time ago, that I would sweep it last week-end. I thought it was unflued, but the chimney sweep man managed to dislodge a part of a flue which we think is asbestos, maybe not. Now I do not know if there are more flues up there and if so can the stainless steel flexi be put through this other existing flue. I imagine it will be problematic to remove an asbestos flue if it exists. It will be backfilled with vermiculite. Please I should be most grateful for any advice that you have to give me. Once again you are worth your weight in gold.
    many thanks

    It could well be asbestos but my view is so long as you don't disturb it more you should be fine to fit the new stainless steel flexible liner down the old flue and backfilled with vermiculite. The flue liner needs to match the stoves outlet size internally.

    I wouldn't use the flue until it is lined as the possible old asbestos lined flue is damaged you dont know if its sound for smoke/co2 leakage.

    You could get an asbestos removal company in to test the flue to see if it is asbestos and if possible to remove the old liner, but personally I think my first option is the best option. Leave it undisturbed:). It's the dust from it when cut/broken etc that gets on your lungs that make it dangerous.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • #781
    yvonneekelly
    Registered Users Posts: 3 ✭yvonneekelly


    Thank you so much for the advice.I will check out the web site u gave me and also get more quotes on the cleaning of chimney.Thats what i thought u do get what u pay for. Thanks so much.


  • #782
    guinness queen
    Registered Users Posts: 56 ✭✭guinness queen


    Thanks very much Stove Fan, that is exactly what I thought and I will pass this on to the builder. I will let you know the result. Again, your help is really appreciated.


  • #783
    New build in sight
    Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭New build in sight


    Hi Stove Fan

    I have posted elsewhere on this topic, (probably incorrectly so) but i have read through your advice that you have provided in this forum and you sound like someone that could offer us some advice...

    What is your experience with double side stoves that have a boiler. We need a Double sided stove to heat an open plan area of approx 12m x 5m and with rads upstairs approx 6 rads (maybe doubled, its a new build)

    Also last question.... can a stove be hooked up to UFH (downstairs)?

    We are installing oil. And we will have solar (i think).

    Many thanks in advance for any advice.


  • #784
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    New build in sight wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan

    I have posted elsewhere on this topic, (probably incorrectly so) but i have read through your advice that you have provided in this forum and you sound like someone that could offer us some advice...

    What is your experience with double side stoves that have a boiler. We need a Double sided stove to heat an open plan area of approx 12m x 5m and with rads upstairs approx 6 rads (maybe doubled, its a new build)

    Also last question.... can a stove be hooked up to UFH (downstairs)?

    We are installing oil. And we will have solar (i think).

    Many thanks in advance for any advice.

    Hi:) I have no experience in double sided stoves unfortunately:(

    What you really need is a plumber to visit to calculate the heat loss of the building and calculate how many KW you need to heat the 6 rads and large open plan room.
    From an online stove calculator it says 10kw is required to heat the 10mx5m room. It could be much, much less depending on how much insulation there is. The plumber will calculate the size of the rads needed for each room and the heat required to heat the open space taking into account the insulation and heat loss:)
    I dont know of any large boilered double sided inset stoves:(

    You would be best to use an accumulator (thermal store) to connect your oil boiler, boiler stove and solar panels:D.

    You can then run underfloor heating from the thermal store from the boiler stove and oil. This is probably your best method. Your plumber will discuss this. Good luck with the build.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #785
    LadyLancalot
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭LadyLancalot


    Can anyone tell me if it's ok to burn lignite in a wood burning stove?

    Guy in the fuel depot where we get our wood says it's fine but I'm worried I'll damage the stove

    nyone know??

    LL


  • #786
    heinbloed
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Ask the installer.

    There are several factors to be considered: suitability of the stove, the flue gas outlet, the chimney. The entire istallation must be suitable.
    Get a heating engineer in to check the system and to certify the operation.

    Shopfloor talks are not covering the operator's responsibility.


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  • #787
    New build in sight
    Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭New build in sight


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) I have no experience in double sided stoves unfortunately:(

    What you really need is a plumber to visit to calculate the heat loss of the building and calculate how many KW you need to heat the 6 rads and large open plan room.
    From an online stove calculator it says 10kw is required to heat the 10mx5m room. It could be much, much less depending on how much insulation there is. The plumber will calculate the size of the rads needed for each room and the heat required to heat the open space taking into account the insulation and heat loss:)
    I dont know of any large boilered double sided inset stoves:(

    You would be best to use an accumulator (thermal store) to connect your oil boiler, boiler stove and solar panels:D.

    You can then run underfloor heating from the thermal store from the boiler stove and oil. This is probably your best method. Your plumber will discuss this. Good luck with the build.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thank you so much Stove Fan. Really appreciate your lenghty response, another couple of questions,

    1. What is a Thermal Store?
    2. We are still searching for a plumber but we've had a few quotes back but none has mentioned doing any calculations of heat loss etc? are we looking at less than perfect plumbers here? :)
    3. To ask my original question again - can a stove be used to heat UFH? I didnt really understand your response to this question? Would you mind explaining?

    Again thank you!


  • #788
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    New build in sight wrote: »
    Thank you so much Stove Fan. Really appreciate your lenghty response, another couple of questions,

    1. What is a Thermal Store?
    2. We are still searching for a plumber but we've had a few quotes back but none has mentioned doing any calculations of heat loss etc? are we looking at less than perfect plumbers here? :)
    3. To ask my original question again - can a stove be used to heat UFH? I didnt really understand your response to this question? Would you mind explaining?

    Again thank you!

    Hi:) No problem.

    1)A thermal store is like a super insulated hot water cylinder of stored hot water. The water inside the store is pumped to the radiators and underfloor heating. The water inside the store, once filled stays there.
    It has a coil going through the hot water stored inside, that produces mains pressure hot water:D.
    They are generally larger than a standard hot water cylinder and come in a range of sizes.
    It has multiple connections on the thermal store so that an oil/gas boiler and solid fuel boiler and solar panels can heat the water inside.
    These heat the water inside which is then pumped to the rads etc.

    A thermal store is a great way of connecting multiple heat sources and as they are so very well insulated, loose very little heat and so the hot water inside is stored until you need it.

    2)Did they take measurements of the rooms,window sizes and materials etc and asked about insulation levels? If so they would of done them at home? It's very hard to say:( They could of just quessed based on experience, or not:mad:
    Was there a spec sheet on energy requirements provided if a new build or spec?

    3 Yes, if you use a thermal store as the water to the underfloor heating circuit is taken from lower down on the thermal store where the water inside the store is cooler the lower down you go. There will be other temp controls from the store to limit the temperature flow from the store to the underfloor heating.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #789
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    LadyLancalot wrote: »
    Can anyone tell me if it's ok to burn lignite in a wood burning stove?

    Guy in the fuel depot where we get our wood says it's fine but I'm worried I'll damage the stove

    nyone know??

    LL

    Hi:) I didn't know what lignite was so looked it up:
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lignite I wouldn't use it myself:( especially so if your stove is only for woodburning only and has no grate.
    It has a very high moisture content, don't know if this is true in briquette form.
    I would see what fuels the stove manufacturer recommends or give them a ring and ask them. I myself think lignite is a no.

    Stick to wood or natural turf:) I have burnt turf well mixed with wood.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #790
    LadyLancalot
    Registered Users Posts: 2 ✭LadyLancalot


    Thanks for that - kinda had that feeling myself but was worth checking

    LL


  • #791
    New build in sight
    Registered Users Posts: 161 ✭✭New build in sight


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) No problem.

    1)A thermal store is like a super insulated hot water cylinder of stored hot water. The water inside the store is pumped to the radiators and underfloor heating. The water inside the store, once filled stays there.
    It has a coil going through the hot water stored inside, that produces mains pressure hot water:D.
    They are generally larger than a standard hot water cylinder and come in a range of sizes.
    It has multiple connections on the thermal store so that an oil/gas boiler and solid fuel boiler and solar panels can heat the water inside.
    These heat the water inside which is then pumped to the rads etc.

    A thermal store is a great way of connecting multiple heat sources and as they are so very well insulated, loose very little heat and so the hot water inside is stored until you need it.

    2)Did they take measurements of the rooms,window sizes and materials etc and asked about insulation levels? If so they would of done them at home? It's very hard to say:( They could of just quessed based on experience, or not:mad:
    Was there a spec sheet on energy requirements provided if a new build or spec?

    3 Yes, if you use a thermal store as the water to the underfloor heating circuit is taken from lower down on the thermal store where the water inside the store is cooler the lower down you go. There will be other temp controls from the store to limit the temperature flow from the store to the underfloor heating.

    Stove Fan:)

    Seriously thank you so much! You are amazing, you have explained this to me in a way that i can actually understand what you mean! The first time i have understand anything to do with plumbing!

    OK so i swear this is the last question - would a thermal store tank also be known as a buffer tank, or are these seperate things? I definately heard plumbers mentioning buffer tanks.... My partner is looking after all this side of things so i cant be sure on the whole spec etc part. He uses this account too so I will get him to read this.

    Do you mind me asking what part of the country are you in?


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  • #792
    dills
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1 ✭dills


    We are thinking about putting a woodburning stove/boiler in the lounge and have worked out that to heat the lounge we would need about 7 kw to room. We also want to heat up two rads and the underfloor heating in kitchen.

    Rad sizes:
    600 x 700 double
    600 x 1200 double
    25 square metres of underfloor heating.

    The current boiler is a LPG combi which provides the only heat for the house at the moment but as it is a bit dear decided to go for a woodburning stove.

    What size stove would we need, and would we have to have a cylinder installed for the hot water. What size would this cylinder have to be?

    Please help:confused:


  • #793
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    I am looking to replace my existing fireplace (See pic below) to put in a free standing boiler stove, i need to make a bigger opening in width & height so the new stove can fit. So the existing precast flue gatherer will need to be removed as its too low plus it won't be supported on the blockwork as the ope will be made wider so i'll have to put in a long precast lintel at higher level to support the blockwork above. But

    1. How do i support the existing & flue liners.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated?

    precastfluegatherer.jpg


  • #794
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    New build in sight wrote: »
    Seriously thank you so much! You are amazing, you have explained this to me in a way that i can actually understand what you mean! The first time i have understand anything to do with plumbing!

    OK so i swear this is the last question - would a thermal store tank also be known as a buffer tank, or are these seperate things? I definately heard plumbers mentioning buffer tanks.... My partner is looking after all this side of things so i cant be sure on the whole spec etc part. He uses this account too so I will get him to read this.

    Do you mind me asking what part of the country are you in?

    Many thanks for your kind comments:D

    Yes a thermal store is also known as a buffer, although buffers are more used with heat pumps. They seem to be the same as a thermal store/buffer/accumulator. I'm in Kerry/Limerick/Cork border area but not working here at all:( Going to return to the UK when we sell our house.

    Stove Fan:)


  • #795
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dills wrote: »
    We are thinking about putting a woodburning stove/boiler in the lounge and have worked out that to heat the lounge we would need about 7 kw to room. We also want to heat up two rads and the underfloor heating in kitchen.

    Rad sizes:
    600 x 700 double
    600 x 1200 double
    25 square metres of underfloor heating.

    The current boiler is a LPG combi which provides the only heat for the house at the moment but as it is a bit dear decided to go for a woodburning stove.

    What size stove would we need, and would we have to have a cylinder installed for the hot water. What size would this cylinder have to be?

    Please help:confused:

    Hi:),

    Your 2 rads equate to 4kw required to heat them.
    You would be best to fit a thermal store cylinder, this would then enable you to keep the LPG boiler for backup if ill or away, but still integrate the boiler stove. Best of both worlds:D
    I have no idea how much heat would be required to heat 25sqm of underfloor heating:( Underfloor heating I'm not up on:(

    What I would do is to get a plumber in to evaluate your system and to price it for you.

    Youll need the plumber to size the thermal store,
    Size the boiler stove required based on heating requirements,

    As you already have the LPG boiler installed I wouldn't get rid of it. Good for instant heat if you can't or don't want to light the fire.
    The thermal store would need to be an open vented thermal store.


    Stove Fan:)


  • #796
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Barrell wrote: »
    I am looking to replace my existing fireplace (See pic below) to put in a free standing boiler stove, i need to make a bigger opening in width & height so the new stove can fit. So the existing precast flue gatherer will need to be removed as its too low plus it won't be supported on the blockwork as the ope will be made wider so i'll have to put in a long precast lintel at higher level to support the blockwork above. But

    1. How do i support the existing & flue liners.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated?

    precastfluegatherer.jpg

    Hi, it's quite a big job:eek: Depending on how much wider, you may need new foundations. The way people support the clay liners is to drill straight through the chimneybreast and the clay liner and put a steel rod through to hold the liners in place. Be prepared to have the infilling around the liners to fall out. You would also need to support the chimney blockwork/brickwork while widening and enlarging.
    Personally this is best to be done by an experienced builder/fireplace installer as supporting the chimneybreast/clay liners is the hard part. You dont want it going wrong;)

    Myself I wouldn't do it as it could get expensive:eek:
    In my opinion I would seriously reconsider an inset boiler stove. It would save this hassle:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • #797
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi, it's quite a big job:eek: Depending on how much wider, you may need new foundations. The way people support the clay liners is to drill straight through the chimneybreast and the clay liner and put a steel rod through to hold the liners in place. Be prepared to have the infilling around the liners to fall out. You would also need to support the chimney blockwork/brickwork while widening and enlarging.
    Personally this is best to be done by an experienced builder/fireplace installer as supporting the chimneybreast/clay liners is the hard part. You dont want it going wrong;)

    Myself I wouldn't do it as it could get expensive:eek:
    In my opinion I would seriously reconsider an inset boiler stove. It would save this hassle:D

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks for reply stove fan

    The existing blockwork will be staying in place just breaking out some of the blockwork to make the ope wider hense the existing flue liner won't be supported.
    My father is an ex builder so just want to be sure what i'm doing before we start so no major expense.

    When you say put in steel rod through the liners i presume this is temporary, what would support the liners permantly then?


  • #798
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Barrell wrote: »
    Thanks for reply stove fan

    The existing blockwork will be staying in place just breaking out some of the blockwork to make the ope wider hense the existing flue liner won't be supported.
    My father is an ex builder so just want to be sure what i'm doing before we start so no major expense.

    When you say put in steel rod through the liners i presume this is temporary, what would support the liners permantly then?

    Yes the steel rod(s) through the clay liner is just to tempoary support the clay liners until a supporting base is built.
    What you would then have to do is to either use 2 concrete lintels either side from front to back to suppoort the clay liners. Or

    Better still refit a new clay liner support base but if needed on 2 new lintels across the front and back if the new liner support isnt wide enough on it's own to span the new opening.
    If the vermiculite/sand cement infill around the liners falls out you would need to backfill around the clay liners from the roof.

    The second option is best as you can then just still use a clay liner adapter to join to the clay liners and stoves fluepipe. With the lintels in the first option you wouldnt have a flat surface to join the clay liner adapter and so tar could leak out, unless you fully relined the chimney in stainless steel flexi liner.

    Stove Fan:D


  • #799
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    Thanks again stove fan for your reply you really are a legend!

    A couple of queries on boiler stove?

    1. On brochures what does "Nominal " heat output mean?

    2. With boiler stoves can you regulate the heat output to the boiler and have the room temp at its normal kw output?


  • #800
    Stove Fan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Barrell wrote: »
    Thanks again stove fan for your reply you really are a legend!

    A couple of queries on boiler stove?

    1. On brochures what does "Nominal " heat output mean?

    2. With boiler stoves can you regulate the heat output to the boiler and have the room temp at its normal kw output?

    Hi,

    Nominal is really the minimum heat output, it could be higher depending on how often you refuel. Manufacturers will generally state the KW range.

    If you want to be able to control the boiler output buy a boiler stove with thermostatic control. This regulates the air inlet into the fire and a phial sensor senses the water temperature to the rads and opens and closes the air supply automatically as needed.

    The room output would decrease as the heating system was up to temperature. The thermostat closing the air supply thus the fire not burning as much.

    Choose a boiler stove that matches the required boiler load and most important as well the required room output where the stove is going.
    You don't want a stove roasting you out so having to keep the stove closed up thus not heating the rads.
    It's better to have less heat to the room rather than roasting, you can always fit a radiator in the same room with a thermastatic radiator valve:).

    Stove Fan:)


  • #801
    Barrell
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭Barrell


    Stove Fan thank you so much for your replies,

    Another question for you currently i have 2 zones (upstairs & Downstairs) if i had a boiler stove that will only have enough kw output to heat one zone at a time, Can you alternate when one of the zones is heated?


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