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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,829 ✭✭✭irishproduce


    I will post back so others can read about experience.
    Thanks Sanchez!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,005 ✭✭✭Green farmer


    Looking to put up a twin wall flue on a external wall of my house. Can anyone recommend the best brand on the market, thanks !!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Looking to put up a twin wall flue on a external wall of my house. Can anyone recommend the best brand on the market, thanks !!!

    Your looking at either Oriel Flues or MI Flues both are very good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,005 ✭✭✭Green farmer


    I contacted the local builders providers today and they supply two brands of twin wall" negarra" and "hamco"
    Anybody know if their any good ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hamco are good quality.


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭Villan11


    So I am making some progress with my stove project. Old fireplace, including mantle, hearth, firebrick and surround is gone. I've ordered my new hearth and decided on the Oisin stove that will sit into my opening. I won't be putting in any mantle or surround. A recommended installer called out today to spec the job, and recommended that I finish the chimney breast and hole (currently exposed blocks) with a plaster mix of sand, cement and lime and paint with a heat resistant paint. Just wondering if this sounds ok to you guys and also wondering if i have much choice in colors of heat resistant paint?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 503 ✭✭✭johnb25


    Hi,

    We are putting in a stove in the livingroom downstars.
    We also have a large undeveloped attic that we plan to upgrade at some point.
    Rather than just putting in a dry stove, could we put in a boiler stove now, and just enough pipework to reach upstairs. Then when we do get around to upstairs, we could connect rads to the boiler stove without disturbing downstairs?
    The ground floor is geothermal UFH, so I would not plan on touching that.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8 Raffo1892


    Apologies to hijack a thread here somewhat, I'm wondering does anyone know of any second hand/recondition insert stoves around?
    I'm in a rental property, about 17 yrs old and tired of every bit of heat getting drawn out the chimney in winter, plus wastage of fuel. As it's a rental I literally just am looking for an insert to slide in place with minimum of fuss, easy to remove to. Any flue lining would be done as needed.

    Any info welcome, again apologies if this is the wrong section


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,823 ✭✭✭ballyharpat


    I bought a firebird insert boiler stove-16"- I am installing it in a fireplace that is 20" wide, How wide do I have to open the fireplace so the plumber can attach the pipes etc to the stove? He told me he needs about 30 Inches wide, seems an awful lot, but I've never seen it being done so I don't know.....I will be closing it in after using fireproof sheetrock and fireproof paint...etc, as I want it to sit in the fireplace without a hearth or anything.....thanks.....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 15 peter rabbit


    Hi

    I want to get a free standing stove for our kitchen/living room extention. There is no chimney and the room is single storey with a flat roof. The stove will be placed on the side wall approx 2 metres from the original house exerior wall.

    I have gone to two companies for quotes and they have given me two ways to deal with the exterior flue.

    Option one, flue must be secured to second floor exterior wall of house. This will result in the flue coming out of flat roof, then a bend, over to house wall, another bend and flue up to roof level. But flue secured to exterior of house at 2nd floor level

    Option two. Flue comes out of flat roof to a height of 1.5 metres. This flue is not secured to anything .

    My main worry is that with option two the flue will sway with high winds and possibly cause damage

    My worry with option two is the two bends in the flue which I have been told is not good for "draw"
    Any advise would be great as this all is double dutch to me

    Tks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,541 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Hi

    I want to get a free standing stove for our kitchen/living room extention. There is no chimney and the room is single storey with a flat roof. The stove will be placed on the side wall approx 2 metres from the original house exerior wall.

    I have gone to two companies for quotes and they have given me two ways to deal with the exterior flue.

    Option one, flue must be secured to second floor exterior wall of house. This will result in the flue coming out of flat roof, then a bend, over to house wall, another bend and flue up to roof level. But flue secured to exterior of house at 2nd floor level

    Option two. Flue comes out of flat roof to a height of 1.5 metres. This flue is not secured to anything .

    My main worry is that with option two the flue will sway with high winds and possibly cause damage

    My worry with option two is the two bends in the flue which I have been told is not good for "draw"
    Any advise would be great as this all is double dutch to me

    Tks
    I'm no expert, but as I understand it the flue needs to go up to the top roof level - ie your first option above.

    There was a post recently either here (or possibly a separate thread) about this very issue - a flue went above a single-storey extension about 1.5m, and the neighbours were complaining about being gassed in their beds. Well, maybe not quite - but along those lines. Smoke doesn't always rise, and you risk it blowing in your or neighbours' house windows if you don't pipe it above to roof level.

    There are rules/guidelines about how much/many angles are idea for a flue - obviously a dead straight one would be best, but you can bend them a certain amount.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,005 ✭✭✭Green farmer


    I think up to 4 bends is ok


  • Registered Users Posts: 15 peter rabbit


    Tks Heidi and Green Farmer

    That makes a lot of sense I think i'll go back to the first fitter and find out more


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,541 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Tks Heidi and Green Farmer

    That makes a lot of sense I think i'll go back to the first fitter and find out more

    Could you maybe locate it closer to the original house wall (ie the two-storey one)? That way the bending would be kept to a minimum.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15 peter rabbit


    Hi Heidi

    That would make more sense and we did look at that option. If we position the stove near original house exterior wall that is the corner of the room and it means when we sit in couches etc the fire is to the side, tv to left.

    Has anyone else done this?

    Rectangular shaped kitchen/livinging room. At livingroom end Tv wall mounted left front, ideally I wanted stove centre front, but maybe it should go to right corner?

    I really want to get this right as the stove I had picked was Stovax F66 and costs approx €2000, I then have flue costs plus installation

    Any ideas

    Thanks all


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,433 ✭✭✭AlanG


    Villan11 wrote: »
    So I am making some progress with my stove project. Old fireplace, including mantle, hearth, firebrick and surround is gone. I've ordered my new hearth and decided on the Oisin stove that will sit into my opening. I won't be putting in any mantle or surround. A recommended installer called out today to spec the job, and recommended that I finish the chimney breast and hole (currently exposed blocks) with a plaster mix of sand, cement and lime and paint with a heat resistant paint. Just wondering if this sounds ok to you guys and also wondering if i have much choice in colors of heat resistant paint?

    i have just finished a similar project with a heritage Ashford stove. It all depends on the amount of space you have around the stove. I only had about 12cm so i used Fire Cement to level off the surround and then attached a 10mm thick quartz stone with some high temp grout. Ordinary plaster and grout in the chimney hole will flake over time but will look fab when the installer finishes his job. As for the Chimney breast you should be fine the the paint.


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭Villan11


    Mine will be very tight to the walls. Less than 2 inches on the three sides.

    One installer warmed me against doing this at all as there is a risk of overheating the stove itself. I'm getting a bit wary now even though it will only be lit less than 10 times a year. It's more decorative than functional.

    Consi
    AlanG wrote: »
    i have just finished a similar project with a heritage Ashford stove. It all depends on the amount of space you have around the stove. I only had about 12cm so i used Fire Cement to level off the surround and then attached a 10mm thick quartz stone with some high temp grout. Ordinary plaster and grout in the chimney hole will flake over time but will look fab when the installer finishes his job. As for the Chimney breast you should be fine the the paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,005 ✭✭✭Green farmer


    When installing a stove where the pipe is brought out through an external wall to a twin wall flue chimney, does it make any difference if the flue goes from the top of stove or the rear of stove ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    When installing a stove where the pipe is brought out through an external wall to a twin wall flue chimney, does it make any difference if the flue goes from the top of stove or the rear of stove ?

    Best is to go from top


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    3 bed semi, small living room but double doors through to the kitchen/dining room (wall knocked between the 2). Twins under 1 and kitchen dining room area is cool in winter (faces westerly winds).

    Thinking of putting in stove to heat living room with spill over into kitchen/diner to make it more cosy.

    Current fireplace has wood surround, cast iron inlay and gas fire in it - so it looks like a demolition and re build job.

    So questions:

    1. any advice on stove size? Want it to heat the kitchen/diner a good bit but not be unbearable to sit in front in a small living room (would imagine double doors being open 95% of time though when stove on)

    2. Go insert or free standing? Will a free standing jut out too much into a small room?

    I prefer the look of free standing so if I could get it built well in like this i'd ideally prefer that.

    3. Rough cost for everything from old fireplace demolition, new one, stove & installation etc. Any change left from €3k?

    Image of current fireplace here


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,005 ✭✭✭Green farmer


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Best is to go from top

    I got a stove from a relative, it was used for several years as a rear flue exit, and top flue exit is blanked off and wedged sealed with cement, so might not have any option but to go out rear. Just wondering if rear exit makes much difference ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    I got a stove from a relative, it was used for several years as a rear flue exit, and top flue exit is blanked off and wedged sealed with cement, so might not have any option but to go out rear. Just wondering if rear exit makes much difference ?

    If you look at the baffle arrangement in a stove and the design inside it all leads to the top flue.All output measurements are taken from top.It will still work from rear but the top is the best


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,275 ✭✭✭RubyGirl


    Have my stratford eb16 in about a week now, lighting small fires in it but wow so far so good. Even on a small fire it's heating the water so we have turned off the oil, and it's doing the underfloor aswell.

    Happy out so far.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 145 ✭✭gofasterdad


    I want to install a free standing stove in an extension at the back of the house.

    Ideally, I would like the flue to come out the back of the stove, through the external wall, and then angle upwards (45 degrees) towards the main body of the house in order to get the required height.

    One stove shop has told me that this should be no problem, but a second stove shop has said that it cannot be done, as the section of flue at 45 degrees can only be a maximum of 1 metre long.

    I have attached a side elevation which should give an indication of what I am trying to do.

    Has anybody done anything similar before, or can you offer some suggestions / guidance as I don't know where to go from here.

    Update on the above: In the end I decided to go for it and installed the stove. The flue comes up off the top for about 1.5metres and then out through the wall, once outside it turns 45degrees to go back to the main part of the house and up up up over the roofline to the height of a normal chimney.

    I lit a fire last night and am very pleased to report that it works really well and there is a very powerful draw. I only lit a small fire as the instructions say to keep it small for the first few days, but I am so happy now that I went for it and not some of the flue-less alternatives that were proposed which all seemed a bit joy-less to me.

    The arrangement is similar to the attached plan except the flue exits from the wall approx 2 metres higher. (initially we thought we could go straight out the back of the stove through the wall, which i realise now is not possible) Anyway, i just wanted to report one happy stove owner and to let people know not to be discouraged at the first obstacle, sometimes you can find a workaround and it's worth it in the long run.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Kenny,
    What are the sizes of the rooms?
    How is the chimney flued?

    Recessing your fireplace and constructing a chamber(scamalex board chamber) will mean you will need to slightly over estimate the stove you need.It is also a more expensive job than just changing the fireplace surround and insert to use an insert stove.

    Your last and cheapest option would be to go with a smaller stove that will fit under the canopy of your existing fireplace.This is under the assumption a 4.5kw stove will do your room.
    Eg-
    http://www.henleystoves.com/room-heaters/oxford-7kw-2/thames-4-5kw-room-heater

    Hi Sanchez83,

    Living room is 18 7 X 10 10

    Kitchen dining room is 20 6 X 15

    I'd like spill over heat into kitchen/dining room without having an oversized stove that melts your face and looks ridiculous in a small 3 bed living room.

    No idea of state of chimney - house built 1997 and doubt fire was ever used - gas fire in it at present.

    Ideally I want to do a long term job - no false economies (wanting to do better one later) and I'd therefore be favouring getting a stove of 6kw or so and having the firebrick removed - hence I wouldn't be mad on a 4.5kw one with a small box for fuel.

    With my wood surround and cast iron fireplace I think there'll be good bit of work anyway so may as well go all the way. Would the chamber add much cost to the job?

    As I said main reason for wanting to do it is to put more heat into kitchen/dining area as these are cool but can't get the stove out there.

    I just can't deciode on free standing or inset. On one hand our house is decorated modern enough so thinking an inset stove might look more appropriate and might look better in room for 6 months of the year it's not in use.

    I do prefer overall look of free standing though when done in a chamber but am wondering if the stove will still jut out into the room much.

    In terms of inset stoves, have you any recommendations for a 6kw - 7kw one?

    I really have a max budget of €3k, but was hoping more for €2.5k, so trying to work around that while get what I want.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Daithi 7211


    Hi all, looking for a bit of information. Have a new build, well insulated 2,500sq 2 storey house. I am looking for a stove to heat hot water & rads, have aprox 12 double 1200 mm rads. Stove will be in the kitchen/dinning room 9.5m X 4.5m has a conservatory off the side. I am looking for a stove with a direct air supply fitted. My question is what size stove would I need ? With the house well insulated I am thinking I might not need a real large stove as the warm air should circulate the house, not go an air test done yet but I would be fair happy in saying it should be quite air tight. What brands of stove would ye recommend ? Am leaning towards the freestanding Inis Mean / Inis Mor , stratford . Seen Pierce stoves at the ploughing match look pretty decent but can't find any feed back on them. Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Daithi 7211


    Thanks Sanchez83 for your reply. I have an 1800 double rad in kitchen/dinning room which I would hope to turn off as the room would be warm enough with the stove. I have 3 Zones for the oil boiler only, upstairs/downstairs & hot water. All rads have TRV's fitted. I must chat the plumber about getting Zones for the back boiler, as you say it would make a lot more sense. I have a manifold system for the rads upstairs & downstairs. So my thinking for a 18kw stove might just work if I get areas Zoned. Would you are anyone have any idea how much it would cost to join it up ? Is it hard to do . I have ran the pipe work to the stove before I put the finished floor in & ran a pipe up the wall to attic, something I had the plumber do. I have a triple coil 300lt tank, also plan on fitting solar panels. I think I read that the Inis stoves had direct air, I must go check.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    I'm not sure to be honest Daithi.Best discuss with your plumber I'd say.
    I'd be interested in knowing the answer and cost though.
    Be aware that there's a difference between a stove with outside air and a passive stove.
    The Inis for example will be piped for outside air but will also pull air from the room as it has vents on the front of the stove.
    A passive stove will have no vents on the doors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Daithi 7211


    I will let you know when I find out. Thanks for the heads up on the doors, am not a passive house but i'm trying to get as much out of my fire as possible. Am due to meet my BER man later today, just to talk about air tightness, will ask him what stoves he knows of.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 racer77


    Hi All,

    Looking to convert to a solid fuel boiler stove...to heat 11 Rads, and just a kitchen....Seen the pierce stoves at the ploughing, but feedback on the forum is mixed? Second stove to catch my eye is the Henley Blasket...any feedback on this stove?

    I am from the Kildare area, can anyone recommend a good installer? (old pellet boiler to be removed first!)

    thanks in advance for any advice offered.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4 racer77


    Thanks for the reply Sanchez, will give them a shout.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 545 ✭✭✭Pinkycharm


    Hey everyone, just bought a new house and will be leaving behind my lovely hunter herald :( was wondering if anyone out there could recommend a good and mid range price inset. Was looking at the SLX45 charnwood. I need to heat about 8 double rads and guy in ryans stoves in nenagh said to count it as 16 rads. Has anyone any recommendations to look at other models? Got a quote for that charnwood for €1875 (enamel with boiler). was hoping the price could be bet somewhere.

    There was a back boiler in the old fireplace as well and the pump was beside it so hoping to get that moved if I can. Also is it a big job to rip out a stand alone boiler? Have gotten a grant boiler for outside and want to move oil tank away from the house if possible!

    also is it a big job to cut a space into a chimney breast to put a freestanding stove? The fireplace in the new house is marble but chipped so will be pulled out but the breast is quite big. Any advice appreciated!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 545 ✭✭✭Pinkycharm


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Pinky,

    Seems strange that they advised you the Charnwood as that's will only do 9-12 radiators.The price is very good but I would imagine to do 16 single rads you would need a 21kw insert boiler.
    You are looking at 2 main options for that-
    Stratford EB16
    Henley Achill 21kw
    The only other 21kw insert boiler I am aware of is the heritage Sheelin but it is not a genuine 21kw(First of all it's too small in size to produce 21kw and secondly it's a copy of the Boru insert boiler which is only 17kw and has been that for years).

    Moving the boiler is an option but you would really need to get a plumber out to assess.
    Widening the opening of your fireplace can be done,alot of people going down that route now with chambers/alcoves.Keep in mind however you will lose a bit of the heat to the chamber if you recess the stove so estimate 1/2kw above what you need for the room.
    A look through some websites of stove shops will throw up some pictures of completed jobs like this.

    Thank you so much for your reply!! Yeah I'm not sure on the Charnwood to be honest I was thinking of going for something a bit stronger as there is an extension currently with no radiators and that would have to be heated too. Today in another shop I was recommended the Ború Carraig Mór Stove if I wanted to put it into the alcove for €1,199 thats only 16kw but heats up to 14 rads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,529 ✭✭✭irishgeo


    anyone got a henley achill insert convection stove?

    Which is is the better one to get the

    Henley Achill Inset Stove
    Matt Black : €799 Enamel : €999

    any reviews of it. i want it to heat a 3 bedroom semi the sitting room, not interested in the boiler version?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    One of the best selling stoves in the country if not the best selling!
    No real difference between the matt and enamel in relation to how they work.
    It's personal preference really.
    I myself like the enamel coz it's easy to keep clean.You just have to be careful when refuelling etc so you don't chip it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 47 Rocrules


    Hi Folks.

    This is a great thread, but my head is spinning with all of the info here!

    I'm looking for advice on which boiler stove to get for my cottage.

    I have a large stone fireplace with an opening of - depth 55cm x height 89cm and width 65cm at the front and slopes to 55cm at the back. The stone floor slab extends out 33cm into the room from the opening.

    The fireplace is in the living room which is (w) 374cm x (h) 330cm (raised ceiling) x (l) 584cm. At the other end of the room is a 140x50cm double rad.

    This room has an opening into the kitchen (open plan) which is (w) 364cm x (h) 222cm x (l) 454cm and has a 120 x 50cm double rad.

    Bedroom 1 - (w) 374cm x (h) 330cm x (l) 481cm with a 100 x 50cm double rad.

    Bedroom 2 - (w) 355cm x (h) 222cm x (l) 355cm with a 120 x 50 single rad.

    Bathroom - (w) 248cm x (h) 217cm x (l) 183cm with a 70 x 50 single rad.

    There is also a hallway in the middle of the house with no radiator, so I'm not sure if this factors into the calculations. (w) 125cm x (h) 222cm x (l) 192cm.

    Due to the awkward nature of the house (raised ceilings in original part of house - living room and bedroom 1; Double asphalt layer old flat roof covering the extension - kitchen, bathroom, hall and bedroom 2), I'm going to have to insulate the attic at the roof level, so I'm not sure if I need to calculate in the attic space as well?

    Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    irishgeo wrote: »
    anyone got a henley achill insert convection stove?

    Which is is the better one to get the

    Henley Achill Inset Stove
    Matt Black : €799 Enamel : €999

    any reviews of it. i want it to heat a 3 bedroom semi the sitting room, not interested in the boiler version?

    I am sure you have your research done but would the achill at 6.6kw output be a bit big for a standard sitting room of a semi d? Henley do an Apollo at 5kw as well
    Not sure where you are but irishwire in limerick are doing 10% to 15% off Henley at the moment so worth shopping around for best price. Last year topline hardware were doing good value and discounts on the Henley range of stoves as well. For stoves these places often seem to have better prices than the players than come up with a google search

    Edit - just saw you are in Mayo so limerick might be a bit far! But defo worth calling to a few places.
    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    One of the best selling stoves in the country if not the best selling!
    No real difference between the matt and enamel in relation to how they work.
    It's personal preference really.
    I myself like the enamel coz it's easy to keep clean.You just have to be careful when refuelling etc so you don't chip it.

    Didn't know they were up there near the top of the sales rank.
    Do you reckon they deserve to be up there Sanchez? Is the apollo not as good? not sure if it is convection. (thanks for all your posts in this forum, they are very informative)


  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭lovehathi


    Hi everyone

    Looking to buy Stovax riva 55 is this a good stove ? or should i look for another one its going to be in room next to kitchen extension of 28 sq m approx so guessing the the heat would travel from this to the extension as its next to the living room .


  • Registered Users Posts: 47 Rocrules


    Thanks for the reply Sanchez. Can you recommend any particular stove fan or are they all similar?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    They are all very similar tbh.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Riva 55 is a very high quality stove.
    You couldn't go wrong with it to be honest.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Without doubt the Achill 6.6kw is one of the top selling stoves in the country.
    While nobody can obviously say for sure it's easy enough to work out.
    I know in Meath and a couple of other counties they are now being used by the county councils instead of Stanley Caras.

    The Apollo is a convection based stove.In reality is just a smaller modern version of the Achill with a few small design differences so should be equally as good.
    Sloped back box,cast iron bricks and air wash lever in a different place.
    The Achill is just a more popular look and has a great reputation overall.

    Im looking at getting the Achill for my sitting room was wondering would it be too big according to the dimensions i have imputted on the hendly website i only need 3.3 kw to heat my room.

    I have double doors which open into the kitchen which i was hoping to leave open and heat the downstairs would i be better with the apollo ??

    Sanchez you mentioned Meath could you recommend any good suppliers for either of those hendley stoves ??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    Im looking at getting the Achill for my sitting room was wondering would it be too big according to the dimensions i have imputted on the hendly website i only need 3.3 kw to heat my room.

    I have double doors which open into the kitchen which i was hoping to leave open and heat the downstairs would i be better with the apollo ??

    Sanchez you mentioned Meath could you recommend any good suppliers for either of those hendley stoves ??


    Am sure you will get responses from the more qualified but just as a punter
    - My room came out at needing 3.8kw and the local supplier recommended against my choice of stanley cara (at 6.6kw as well) as he reckoned whilst it might heat downstairs with the double doors open it could be uncomfortably hot to sit in the room with the stove to, for example, watch tv at night.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    macjohn wrote: »
    Am sure you will get responses from the more qualified but just as a punter
    - My room came out at needing 3.8kw and the local supplier recommended against my choice of stanley cara (at 6.6kw as well) as he reckoned whilst it might heat downstairs with the double doors open it could be uncomfortably hot to sit in the room with the stove to, for example, watch tv at night.

    What did you buy in the end ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 28 Rigador


    Hoping someone can help me with this. Have just recently had a stove installed in our living room. Free standing appliance with no existing chimney, so flue comes straight off the top of the stove and heads right on up out through the ceiling. It then goes through a flat felt roof. There is a metal plate in the ceiling with some vents in it (think it's called a firestop??) and when I look through it I can see the silver underside of the plate they used on the exterior of the roof. We had heavy rain last night and this morning I noticed some moisture on the underside of this external sheet. I'm thinking could it simply be condensation?

    The installers didn't felt over this metal plate, and I'm wondering if this is why we'd have this condensation. i.e if it was felted over would it be warmer in temperature and not attract moisture underneath?

    Hope that all makes sense. Ultimately I'm wondering does the plate on the exterior need to be felted over. Would it be normal for it to be left as it is?

    Thanks a million!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 33 eskanw


    Registered User
    I can see that there is lots of stove questions but I can't find what I'm looking for, my husband decided to install a stove in the living room, he ripped out the open fire and duly installed the stove with a concrete board surrounding it and then the mantelpiece back up, the thing is I have tiles ordered to cover the concrete board but it gets really really hot like too hot to touch and I don't think they'll stick to it. So now he's talking about drilling a hole in the wall at the side of the chimney breast to 'let the trapped heat out,' is he talking a load of bull?? It just doesn't sound right to me. Also there is a terrible smell off it, it had been lit 5 times its like a smell of fumes but there's no smoke it gave me a headache last night I had to have the patio door open.any help appreciated


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Your husband doesn't have a clue.
    Get a professional in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Your husband doesn't have a clue.
    Get a professional in.

    This! Plus a thousand.

    Seriously, please please take Sanchezs advice. (He knows his stuff, just look at this forum, it is solid advice)

    Plus what you describe the husband doing is just scary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 203 ✭✭Dayo93


    Just wondering how the heat output for stoves are worked out, take for example the henley achill, it is 6.6 kw , is this output measured the maximum heat output measured at full burn ?. If so what would the output be when stove down at lowest burn. Hopefully my question makes sense
    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭cocoman


    eskanw wrote: »
    Registered User
    I can see that there is lots of stove questions but I can't find what I'm looking for, my husband decided to install a stove in the living room, he ripped out the open fire and duly installed the stove with a concrete board surrounding it and then the mantelpiece back up, the thing is I have tiles ordered to cover the concrete board but it gets really really hot like too hot to touch and I don't think they'll stick to it. So now he's talking about drilling a hole in the wall at the side of the chimney breast to 'let the trapped heat out,' is he talking a load of bull?? It just doesn't sound right to me. Also there is a terrible smell off it, it had been lit 5 times its like a smell of fumes but there's no smoke it gave me a headache last night I had to have the patio door open.any help appreciated

    I can see what he's hoping to do by drilling the hole. I presume that he would be drilling from the side of the chimney breast into where the open fire used to be and not higher up into the chimney flue. Considering that the concrete board is getting so hot, I am a bit weary that adequate distances have not been adhered to regarding distance from stove to adjacent surfaces. The installation manual should provide guidance. I would imagine that any tiles you put up would just crack with the heat. If you have adequate space a stovefan would help disperse the heat from around the stove into the room.

    In relation to the smell there would usually be a smell from a new stove for the first few lightings. I didn't think it should be so bad as to give you headaches. As mentioned earlier it might be best to get some professional advice. Let us know how you get on.


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