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chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

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  • Registered Users Posts: 26 tinski07


    If you have a compressor, the little gauges on it should screw into the oil light sender fitting on the Volvo. The needle will bounce when the pressure is on but its easy to get a reading off it and its free, If you don't have one they are about 2 euro on ebay. Volvo manuals are here and free if you don't have them already www. bluemoment .com/downloads


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    I came across one the other day thanks.
    I got her started yesterday, ran her for about thirty seconds, no oil pressure.
    So turned her off, rechecked all connections, I replaced the fitting on the oil pump’ where you prime the pump.
    Tried to start her again, think she would start; not a chance. :mad:
    I have oil pressure now, 35 psi’ I spent a few hours trying to figure why she would not start again’ :confused:
    Narrowed it down to the feed pump’ or the injection pump.
    The feed pump is simple to remove’ the injection pump’ much more difficult’ so I tried the feed pump first.
    This I think’ was the problem’ there’s a tiny spring’ on the outlet to the injection pump, this had broken’ into little pieces. :(
    So I removed the feed pump’ from the md2’ and fitted it to the md2b. ;)
    This tiny spring; is not shown in any exploded parts diagrams, for the md2 or md2b.
    A new pump, cost about 190 Euro, however a new feed pump for a Perkins, or a Massey Ferguson, that looks very similar, cost 50 Euro, I will have to check this out more.:rolleyes:
    Time to visit the scrap yards again
    Replaced all the rubber hosing’ and clamps’ for a tenner’ parts supplied from my local scrap yard.
    Your man will be sick to death of me by the time I am finished :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    copper12 wrote: »
    Any advice on the mast would be surely appreciated
    Fittings and such things I should try and get done as it is on the ground
    Hi Copper,
    I agree with Neris on checking for weaknesses on the alloys. Also check where the bronze crimps are fixed on the standing rigging.
    Looking at the mast photo:
    First photo mast.jpg – odd sort of ring on the mizzen… is that for the boom/gooseneck? Is that a bare baseplate for a winch? One would be useful there. On the mizzen masthead you will need sheaves (pulleys) for the mizzen halyard, boom topping lift and for the mizzen staysail.
    Second photo mast1.jpg. Looks like the mainmast head. The bracket on top is for a plain white steaming light, so wiring required. There is a small pulley for a burgee. As Neris mentioned you might prefer a Hawk Wind Indicator - 15inch min. probably. Connected to the mainmast head you will have backstay, forestay (the inner forestay will be further down, with its own sheave for the staysail halyard.) At the head you also need a sheave for the main halyard and a swivel block for the spinnaker halyard and another block for the mainboom topping lift. Midways on the mast you will need a block for the spinnaker pole uphaul. It would be a good idea to fit a decklight here should anyone have to go on deck in the dark.
    Third and last photos. Base plate for the mainmast – you will need a shoe for this to sit in on the deck; make a mould from what is there and an alloy casting? Make one from a hardwood/laminate? Stress is mainly vertical, not lateral……Belowdeck you will need a samson post stepped on the keel to take the weight and strain. Only one sheave visible on the after side (rear) of mainmast, for the main halyard? Would all three (Genoa, inner and spinny) halyards be outside the mast? Plenty of cleats and enough winches. You also will need a boom vang.
    Rs
    P.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Thanks for the response pedroe
    These were just a few quick photos I will post some more with more detail
    The mast came off a cape Otway 36
    It looks in pretty good nick when I get the chance I will give good going over
    And see what needs to be done thanks again everyone for the comments’


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    copper12 wrote: »
    The mast came off a cape Otway 36
    It looks in pretty good nick
    Looks like a great find. Well done!:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    If the boat that the mast came from has been written off, you should try to get the mast base from it. It will make mounting the mast much easier having the correct base.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    I have the mast step looks an ugly looking thing
    I see if I can modify the one that came with the boat it looks better.
    I have the front cabin almost finished
    There’s still a bit of tidying up to do’ but I have the hardest part done.
    I had another go at the engine’ there’s a few leaks’ I have to sort out.
    Other than that’ she is flying’ good oil pressure’ and sounds ok
    Put in some engine flush, and ran her for a while, then changed the oil’
    and the oil filter.
    I will run her again on a fifty fifty mix, of bio diesel’ and ordinary diesel’ this should sort out the injectors.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    engine
    I have a video but I can’t upload it
    feed pump.jpg

    oil pressure.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 495 ✭✭Hifive


    I love this thread.
    You truly are a resourceful man.

    Yourself and Fergal should set up shop fixing boats, there'd be no stopping ye!


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    What with the weather’ I am getting nothing done in the boat.
    So I have been playing around with the md2b.
    She starts now; no problem, when she is warmed up I can stop and start her by hand.
    Cold; if I had bigger shoulders’ I could probably do the same’ one touch from the battery and off she goes.
    The dynostart is only good for starting; there is no charge’ that I could find from any of the other connections, so I will have to fit an alternator, she has an extra fly wheel for this anyway.
    She is not out of the woods yet; there are still some things I have to deal with;
    I most likely need to get seals for the water pump’ there might be some water getting in to the oil tru the seals’ I switched the water pump from the md2, the pumps are interchangeable; the working parts are not’ seals and shaft are different; where the pump fits the housing are the same; md2 has a grease cup’ the md2b has none’ the md2b has draining holes built into the pump housing’ the md2 has none.

    Also one of the cylinders got very hot, a lot hotter than cylinder no 2; further investigation revelled that one of the water ports is blocked’ this port allows water to flow around the top of the cylinders’ bypassing the thermostat; with one working’ and one not working, there would be problems with cylinder 1 overheating’ before the thermostat opens for the other ports’ I have tried to free it without success’ I switched the manifold from the md2, to the md2b, slowly but surely’ the md2 is creeping out of the boat’ and into my garage :D
    With the weather the way it is, I will probably tinker with it over the next few days.
    Between the two engines; I will surly get one good one’ if not, then I am only a few Euro worse off, than when I started ,but the experience will be worth it .


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  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Finally with the few fine days’ I finished the front cabin’ bar the shouting.
    This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
    It’s a bit ruff; but the best I could do.
    I can now start on the inside, if the weather gets, to bad
    The engine is working fine; I have run it for a couple of hours now, with no problems.
    I got the dynostarter working, I took the brushes, and a spring, out of the md2, greased the bearings, and cleaned up the contacts. It’s starting and charging now
    There’s a twist to the storey however.
    I bought a lister Perkins, 40 hp reconditioned engine, new pistons, liners, and a new rpm gearbox, 15 inch prop.
    New heat exchanger; €500 worth of spares, and a lot of other little bits and pieces done to it,
    It’s good for another 5000 hour’s before another major overhaul.
    Asking price €3500.
    A thousand for the two md2’s.
    So for two and a half grand; I’ve got an engine, that will be a lot easier to maintain,
    And repair if needs be

    ,


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    The front of the cabin is original, not bad for fifty year old mahogany


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,326 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Looking really good, she's a credit to all the hard work you have put in. Love the grain in the dark wood on each side.:)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Well I got the engine out
    I’m working on the king plank at the moment
    With the weather I’m only getting bits and pieces done
    It’s unlikely I will get the deck caulked until April or may
    I will try and cover sections and dry it out and see if I can get it done
    Net step is to give the inside a good clean out
    Paint the bilge any reconditions for the paint let me know


  • Registered Users Posts: 26 tinski07


    A lot of people reckon the bilge should never be painted just oiled of have some sort of toxic poison thrown in there, I opted to paint Teal's using Danboline bilge paint as the bilge was bone dry. It was originally painted in red lead primer. I would have used that had it been available, Use quality suitable paint anyway or it will forever flake and block your pumps.
    Your getting places now, Glad to hear the Volvo went over the side.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    I'd also go with International's Danboline . However, this year for antifouling I used Hempel instead of my usual International 'cruiser' and if Hempel's bilge paint is anywhere near as good as their antifouling I have no hesitation in using that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Is it raining where you are?
    Be the holy god the weather has been so bad here you wouldn’t put a milk bottle out in it :D
    In between the storms I have got a little bit done and I mean a little :confused:
    I had to put the cover back on in order to try and get something done
    At least I have finished fitting the king plank
    I had to do a knack wit one section as I did not have a plank wide enough but I think I will get away with it :o
    It doesn’t look to bad :rolleyes:
    I also gave the inside a power wash getting most of the old grease and oil off ready for some bilge paint
    I will leave the old engine mounts there awhile until I get the lister and make a template of the engine mounts it’s unlikely the old ones will do but I might be able to add them time will tell


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,326 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Very nice. With all this rain your neighbours are probably thinking you know something they don't :)

    328434.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 20,046 ✭✭✭✭neris


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Very nice. With all this rain your neighbours are probably thinking you know something they don't :)

    328434.jpg

    Lovely job. We,re stripping varnish off decks the last few weeks and the idea of redecking a boat in wood just seems likes €€€€€€€€


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    The last few days I have got a little bit done between the showers.
    I even managed to fit the bungs’ in the king plank’ and cleaned out the bilge’ ready for paint.
    I also cut out the opp for the forward hatch
    There’s a bit of work involved in this hatch; air, and water, passage ways, built in’ it’s almost a hatch, within a hatch.
    Off coarse’ I did not take enough pictures’ when I took the original apart’ on the day, sure there would be no problem, ill remember where that piece goes and me with a head like a sieve:confused:
    I did take a couple pictures, so I figure something out.
    One of the young lads, is back from down under, if I can stop him shacking, from the cold, I might catch him to do it, most of the tools I use, I am only minding for him.:rolleyes:
    I also starting to delve into the wiring system for the boat.
    I have a few things, from the old system’ original lights’ and such’ I will try and change the bulbs for LED’S if I can .1000w inverter’ fell into my lap’ it was dark’ so I couldn’t see where it came from.:eek:
    If anyone has any thoughts’ or advice’ for the wiring system’ pleas post, but keep it simple’ red wire goes here’ black one here’ so to speak. I would not be the brightest spark :o


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  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Hi lads ladies
    I am still at the caulking
    I have managed to get a fair bit done; with the help of an air compressor, and a heat gun.
    I had to stop using the masking tape. by the time I had a seam taped up’ it would rain’ peal off’ and I would have to start again, so gave up on the system.
    It means I will have to do a little bit more sanding; but at least I am getting something done.
    Another week or so and it should be finished.
    Anyone’ ever fitted’ an add a battery system’ from blue sea systems.
    The starter motor on the new engine, is 24v so I will most likely go the whole hog, and have the house system 24v as well, I gotten a few things off flee bay, 8 gang led rocker switch panel,
    If anyone has a system installed; then a few pictures’ and details’ would be helpful.
    I have looked at a lot of wiring systems. on the net. and they seem to have most of the wiring done. in
    2mm to 2.5 mm wire. if I go with 24v; then 1.75mm or 2mm should allow me to wire most of the system .
    Any thoughts on this


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    The starter needs to be replaced in the engine so I will get a 12v starter and have the whole system' house and starter batteries 12v
    I’ve been looking at golf cart batteries' they seem to be the best value for money' and can take a lot of discharge.
    Finally in between the rain, the frost, and the rain, I managed to finish the caulking.
    Ill give it one ruff; sanding, and leave the final sanding, until I’m nearly finished, everything else.
    If anyone has any thoughts; on what I should put into CEO Na Mara, feel free, to offer your advice.
    Since I have no idea, of what needs to put in; any advice would be more than welcome
    Just don’t all shout together? :D


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,326 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If your starter motor on the new engine was 24 volt it might also be worth checking the alternator to see if thats 24v before you connect the golf cart batteries. I think 12 volt is the better option as it a lot easier to get things "gadgets" that run on it.




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  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Trying to make the most of the weather; I have the starboard side nearly finished.
    Port and stern over the net couple of days.
    Attached are two NASA marine unites.
    If there is anyone familiar with units. Fell free to comment, I been trying to find some manuals for them
    I need a few parts for each unit, they are available, a paddle for the speed log, and maybe a transponder, for the depth log
    Are these type of units any good, or should I try and get new systems


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    Hi Copper12, what an amazing transformation. Wish I had your patience, but I am learning..
    I have used those units in the past and never had an issue with them. If you can get the parts (not sure how easy that will be) and they work, you shouldnt have any issues..


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Sadler 32
    Would you by any chance have the wiring diagram for these, the speed and distance log, has a green wire, that I am not sure off?
    The depth has an orange wire, that I think is wired up to an alarm?
    Any information could be helpful


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    Hi copper12. Not sure if this is any use. http://www.seatronic.no/pdf/nasa/Target.pdf
    http://www.nasamarine.com/images/Target%202%20Depth,%20Wind%20&%20Log.pdf
    It is for the tri system, but seem to mention the coloured wires you talk about.
    I am away at sea at the moment, so dont have my box of manuals to hand.
    I hope this is of some use. If not I can look in the box when I get home.
    I am currently using the nasa clipper wind, nasa clipper depth, nasa ais radar and clipper navtex. I am really happy with their systems and never had any issues, and have done a far bit of cruising out of Dublin.


  • Registered Users Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Are all these units together; connected in some way’ are they stand alone units
    Thanks for the response saddler


  • Registered Users Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    I think the links are for a three in one unit. But they seem to talk about them individually...

    So I am not sure, I thought maybe looking at what you have and comparing it to the link it might make sense? maybe not....


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,326 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I wonder are we at the stage now where an iPad or tablet will do the work of most marine equipment something like this looks good http://raymarine.kuluvalley.com/view/o5kaE6FdBXD?t=mo&autoPlay=true&AppProperties.PlayerShowEmbedButton=false and there are a lot of other good apps about, might be worth thinking about :)




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