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chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    I knew that as soon as I start on the decking it would rain.
    It doesn’t seem to want to stop.
    I am still getting a few things done.
    Fitted the rear cabin hatch’ sliding cover.
    And made a start on the forward cabin roof.
    The engine that I got; because of the rain’ I had a little time to play around with it.
    I took the cam covers off’ to check the condition of the push rods’ as I needed tree’ for the engine in the boat’ however on closer inspection, the valve springs’ push rods’ were like new so I started to have a closer look at the whole engine’ striped it down and after a few slaps of a hammer; in the right places’ I got it moving’ the big end bearing was seized’ so I took this off and cleaned it up; put everything back together’ and I can turn her over ‘its a bit stiff’ but should loosen out.
    I will try and get her to start depending on the weather; if I get her going’ then I will spend a few Euro getting her up to scratch; and fit her in the boat’ she is 25 horses’ compared to the 15, that I have in the boat .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    That's great news!:) Happy days! I'd seriously consider having the main bearings relined, they would see you out. If you are tempted to fire her up just make sure she is well free, you don't want to bend the pushrods - or put a con rod out through the block!:eek:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Weather is very changeable right now’ I am like a jackrabbit up and down the scaffold. :o
    Trying to get bits done, in between the showers
    I managed to fit the sliding hatch to the rear cabin; it’s a bit stiff, hopefully it will work itself loose’ after a while.
    I have been playing with the md2b,:p I had a look and cleaned, and greased, the diesel lift pump, water pump, made sure the thermostat was working, and checked the governor, all looked ok. I reversed the impeller on the water pump, so it’s still looking good.
    I had an old fellow’ who has forgotten more about old diesels’ than I will ever learn. Have a look at her.
    I could see his eyes light up when he saw her, if I want to rebuild her something he thinks I don’t have to do; he will gladly lend a hand.
    He thinks I could be lucky, replace the big end bearing, and she should be ok
    I will just have to make sure the oil pump is working, I will strip that next
    At least I have a spear :D
    I have been working on her for just over a year now, it might take another year' hopefully six months.
    But who’s counting it will be ready when it’s ready :cool:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Still working away
    I am working on the front cabin; I have the laths on’ and working on the caulking.
    There’s a lot of finishing attached to the cabin roof’ half way true a job’ I have to stop’ in order to fit something else; goes I suppose with not having plans; or indeed a plan’ just playing it by ear.;)
    It would help if I new what I was doing learning as I go along is great but sometimes it can be frustrating. :mad:
    Well it’s got me this far’ so I suppose I just have to carry on.
    If the weather holds. I should get it finished true the weekend?
    I been playing with the engine. initially it would not turn over.
    However with the help of the largest stencil’ I have, I got it moving’ now it moves fairly freely?
    Every so often’ I connect it to a battery’ and turn it over a half a dozen times.
    Tonight it backfired’ gave me the fright of me life’:eek: must be from all the WD40; I have been spraying around the air intakes’ I am not to sure about oil pressure though. I have to get a proper clock’ the one’s I have are to big for the readings’ I am looking for’ sure I come across one somewhere.
    I will post a few pictures when I get a chance


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    You should be able to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge in a farm machinery shop.



    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    thanks for the advice fergal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Just a an update for anyone interested
    I am still at the cabin roof
    I’m still tinkering’ at the md2b’ I have it turning over now by hand.
    The new big end bearings’ came yesterday’ so I will fit them’ before I try and start her.
    Striped and cleaned the oil pump; again’ and fitted another very thin gasket.
    I had intended on building a forty foot wooden mast; indeed I had spent some time researching’ and repairing the original boom.
    After doing the maths; I thought by the time a had everything assembled; I would not have much change out of 1400 Euro.
    So I started looking out for an aluminium mast; for the same money
    If I came across one; I would take it’ if not, then I would go along with building of the wooden mast.
    I got an aluminium spar 43 ft; and boom’ storm sale’ two jib sales’ spinnaker’ and a main sale’ plus all standing rigging . And numerous fittings yesterday; for 1500 Euro; I think I got a bargain


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Any advice on the mast would be surely appreciated
    Fittings and such things I should try and get done as it is on the ground


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,066 ✭✭✭✭neris


    Mast top fitting brackets for wind speed, hawk & vhf aerial aswell as light fittings and any wires that may at least fall with gravity when the mast is lifted to vertical. Halyard sheaves worth a look at aswell. Easier to replace now. If the mast goes inside the boat a seal of sort sort to cover the gap around where the mast goes in. Check over your standing rigging aswell. That will be the most expensive parts to replace. Have a look over your spreaders, and backing plates for corrosion or age


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Thanks Neris for the response
    I need to replace the spreader base plates
    As for the rest if you can recommend anything I would appreciate it
    It will be deck stepped the rigging I haven’t had a chance to look at yet


  • Registered Users Posts: 26 tinski07


    If you have a compressor, the little gauges on it should screw into the oil light sender fitting on the Volvo. The needle will bounce when the pressure is on but its easy to get a reading off it and its free, If you don't have one they are about 2 euro on ebay. Volvo manuals are here and free if you don't have them already www. bluemoment .com/downloads


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    I came across one the other day thanks.
    I got her started yesterday, ran her for about thirty seconds, no oil pressure.
    So turned her off, rechecked all connections, I replaced the fitting on the oil pump’ where you prime the pump.
    Tried to start her again, think she would start; not a chance. :mad:
    I have oil pressure now, 35 psi’ I spent a few hours trying to figure why she would not start again’ :confused:
    Narrowed it down to the feed pump’ or the injection pump.
    The feed pump is simple to remove’ the injection pump’ much more difficult’ so I tried the feed pump first.
    This I think’ was the problem’ there’s a tiny spring’ on the outlet to the injection pump, this had broken’ into little pieces. :(
    So I removed the feed pump’ from the md2’ and fitted it to the md2b. ;)
    This tiny spring; is not shown in any exploded parts diagrams, for the md2 or md2b.
    A new pump, cost about 190 Euro, however a new feed pump for a Perkins, or a Massey Ferguson, that looks very similar, cost 50 Euro, I will have to check this out more.:rolleyes:
    Time to visit the scrap yards again
    Replaced all the rubber hosing’ and clamps’ for a tenner’ parts supplied from my local scrap yard.
    Your man will be sick to death of me by the time I am finished :o


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    copper12 wrote: »
    Any advice on the mast would be surely appreciated
    Fittings and such things I should try and get done as it is on the ground
    Hi Copper,
    I agree with Neris on checking for weaknesses on the alloys. Also check where the bronze crimps are fixed on the standing rigging.
    Looking at the mast photo:
    First photo mast.jpg – odd sort of ring on the mizzen… is that for the boom/gooseneck? Is that a bare baseplate for a winch? One would be useful there. On the mizzen masthead you will need sheaves (pulleys) for the mizzen halyard, boom topping lift and for the mizzen staysail.
    Second photo mast1.jpg. Looks like the mainmast head. The bracket on top is for a plain white steaming light, so wiring required. There is a small pulley for a burgee. As Neris mentioned you might prefer a Hawk Wind Indicator - 15inch min. probably. Connected to the mainmast head you will have backstay, forestay (the inner forestay will be further down, with its own sheave for the staysail halyard.) At the head you also need a sheave for the main halyard and a swivel block for the spinnaker halyard and another block for the mainboom topping lift. Midways on the mast you will need a block for the spinnaker pole uphaul. It would be a good idea to fit a decklight here should anyone have to go on deck in the dark.
    Third and last photos. Base plate for the mainmast – you will need a shoe for this to sit in on the deck; make a mould from what is there and an alloy casting? Make one from a hardwood/laminate? Stress is mainly vertical, not lateral……Belowdeck you will need a samson post stepped on the keel to take the weight and strain. Only one sheave visible on the after side (rear) of mainmast, for the main halyard? Would all three (Genoa, inner and spinny) halyards be outside the mast? Plenty of cleats and enough winches. You also will need a boom vang.
    Rs
    P.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Thanks for the response pedroe
    These were just a few quick photos I will post some more with more detail
    The mast came off a cape Otway 36
    It looks in pretty good nick when I get the chance I will give good going over
    And see what needs to be done thanks again everyone for the comments’


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    copper12 wrote: »
    The mast came off a cape Otway 36
    It looks in pretty good nick
    Looks like a great find. Well done!:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    If the boat that the mast came from has been written off, you should try to get the mast base from it. It will make mounting the mast much easier having the correct base.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    I have the mast step looks an ugly looking thing
    I see if I can modify the one that came with the boat it looks better.
    I have the front cabin almost finished
    There’s still a bit of tidying up to do’ but I have the hardest part done.
    I had another go at the engine’ there’s a few leaks’ I have to sort out.
    Other than that’ she is flying’ good oil pressure’ and sounds ok
    Put in some engine flush, and ran her for a while, then changed the oil’
    and the oil filter.
    I will run her again on a fifty fifty mix, of bio diesel’ and ordinary diesel’ this should sort out the injectors.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    engine
    I have a video but I can’t upload it
    feed pump.jpg

    oil pressure.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 495 ✭✭Hifive


    I love this thread.
    You truly are a resourceful man.

    Yourself and Fergal should set up shop fixing boats, there'd be no stopping ye!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    What with the weather’ I am getting nothing done in the boat.
    So I have been playing around with the md2b.
    She starts now; no problem, when she is warmed up I can stop and start her by hand.
    Cold; if I had bigger shoulders’ I could probably do the same’ one touch from the battery and off she goes.
    The dynostart is only good for starting; there is no charge’ that I could find from any of the other connections, so I will have to fit an alternator, she has an extra fly wheel for this anyway.
    She is not out of the woods yet; there are still some things I have to deal with;
    I most likely need to get seals for the water pump’ there might be some water getting in to the oil tru the seals’ I switched the water pump from the md2, the pumps are interchangeable; the working parts are not’ seals and shaft are different; where the pump fits the housing are the same; md2 has a grease cup’ the md2b has none’ the md2b has draining holes built into the pump housing’ the md2 has none.

    Also one of the cylinders got very hot, a lot hotter than cylinder no 2; further investigation revelled that one of the water ports is blocked’ this port allows water to flow around the top of the cylinders’ bypassing the thermostat; with one working’ and one not working, there would be problems with cylinder 1 overheating’ before the thermostat opens for the other ports’ I have tried to free it without success’ I switched the manifold from the md2, to the md2b, slowly but surely’ the md2 is creeping out of the boat’ and into my garage :D
    With the weather the way it is, I will probably tinker with it over the next few days.
    Between the two engines; I will surly get one good one’ if not, then I am only a few Euro worse off, than when I started ,but the experience will be worth it .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Finally with the few fine days’ I finished the front cabin’ bar the shouting.
    This took a lot longer than I thought it would.
    It’s a bit ruff; but the best I could do.
    I can now start on the inside, if the weather gets, to bad
    The engine is working fine; I have run it for a couple of hours now, with no problems.
    I got the dynostarter working, I took the brushes, and a spring, out of the md2, greased the bearings, and cleaned up the contacts. It’s starting and charging now
    There’s a twist to the storey however.
    I bought a lister Perkins, 40 hp reconditioned engine, new pistons, liners, and a new rpm gearbox, 15 inch prop.
    New heat exchanger; €500 worth of spares, and a lot of other little bits and pieces done to it,
    It’s good for another 5000 hour’s before another major overhaul.
    Asking price €3500.
    A thousand for the two md2’s.
    So for two and a half grand; I’ve got an engine, that will be a lot easier to maintain,
    And repair if needs be

    ,


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    The front of the cabin is original, not bad for fifty year old mahogany


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Looking really good, she's a credit to all the hard work you have put in. Love the grain in the dark wood on each side.:)



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Well I got the engine out
    I’m working on the king plank at the moment
    With the weather I’m only getting bits and pieces done
    It’s unlikely I will get the deck caulked until April or may
    I will try and cover sections and dry it out and see if I can get it done
    Net step is to give the inside a good clean out
    Paint the bilge any reconditions for the paint let me know


  • Registered Users Posts: 26 tinski07


    A lot of people reckon the bilge should never be painted just oiled of have some sort of toxic poison thrown in there, I opted to paint Teal's using Danboline bilge paint as the bilge was bone dry. It was originally painted in red lead primer. I would have used that had it been available, Use quality suitable paint anyway or it will forever flake and block your pumps.
    Your getting places now, Glad to hear the Volvo went over the side.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    I'd also go with International's Danboline . However, this year for antifouling I used Hempel instead of my usual International 'cruiser' and if Hempel's bilge paint is anywhere near as good as their antifouling I have no hesitation in using that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    Is it raining where you are?
    Be the holy god the weather has been so bad here you wouldn’t put a milk bottle out in it :D
    In between the storms I have got a little bit done and I mean a little :confused:
    I had to put the cover back on in order to try and get something done
    At least I have finished fitting the king plank
    I had to do a knack wit one section as I did not have a plank wide enough but I think I will get away with it :o
    It doesn’t look to bad :rolleyes:
    I also gave the inside a power wash getting most of the old grease and oil off ready for some bilge paint
    I will leave the old engine mounts there awhile until I get the lister and make a template of the engine mounts it’s unlikely the old ones will do but I might be able to add them time will tell


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    Very nice. With all this rain your neighbours are probably thinking you know something they don't :)

    328434.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,066 ✭✭✭✭neris


    fergal.b wrote: »
    Very nice. With all this rain your neighbours are probably thinking you know something they don't :)

    328434.jpg

    Lovely job. We,re stripping varnish off decks the last few weeks and the idea of redecking a boat in wood just seems likes €€€€€€€€


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    The last few days I have got a little bit done between the showers.
    I even managed to fit the bungs’ in the king plank’ and cleaned out the bilge’ ready for paint.
    I also cut out the opp for the forward hatch
    There’s a bit of work involved in this hatch; air, and water, passage ways, built in’ it’s almost a hatch, within a hatch.
    Off coarse’ I did not take enough pictures’ when I took the original apart’ on the day, sure there would be no problem, ill remember where that piece goes and me with a head like a sieve:confused:
    I did take a couple pictures, so I figure something out.
    One of the young lads, is back from down under, if I can stop him shacking, from the cold, I might catch him to do it, most of the tools I use, I am only minding for him.:rolleyes:
    I also starting to delve into the wiring system for the boat.
    I have a few things, from the old system’ original lights’ and such’ I will try and change the bulbs for LED’S if I can .1000w inverter’ fell into my lap’ it was dark’ so I couldn’t see where it came from.:eek:
    If anyone has any thoughts’ or advice’ for the wiring system’ pleas post, but keep it simple’ red wire goes here’ black one here’ so to speak. I would not be the brightest spark :o


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Hi lads ladies
    I am still at the caulking
    I have managed to get a fair bit done; with the help of an air compressor, and a heat gun.
    I had to stop using the masking tape. by the time I had a seam taped up’ it would rain’ peal off’ and I would have to start again, so gave up on the system.
    It means I will have to do a little bit more sanding; but at least I am getting something done.
    Another week or so and it should be finished.
    Anyone’ ever fitted’ an add a battery system’ from blue sea systems.
    The starter motor on the new engine, is 24v so I will most likely go the whole hog, and have the house system 24v as well, I gotten a few things off flee bay, 8 gang led rocker switch panel,
    If anyone has a system installed; then a few pictures’ and details’ would be helpful.
    I have looked at a lot of wiring systems. on the net. and they seem to have most of the wiring done. in
    2mm to 2.5 mm wire. if I go with 24v; then 1.75mm or 2mm should allow me to wire most of the system .
    Any thoughts on this


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    The starter needs to be replaced in the engine so I will get a 12v starter and have the whole system' house and starter batteries 12v
    I’ve been looking at golf cart batteries' they seem to be the best value for money' and can take a lot of discharge.
    Finally in between the rain, the frost, and the rain, I managed to finish the caulking.
    Ill give it one ruff; sanding, and leave the final sanding, until I’m nearly finished, everything else.
    If anyone has any thoughts; on what I should put into CEO Na Mara, feel free, to offer your advice.
    Since I have no idea, of what needs to put in; any advice would be more than welcome
    Just don’t all shout together? :D


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    If your starter motor on the new engine was 24 volt it might also be worth checking the alternator to see if thats 24v before you connect the golf cart batteries. I think 12 volt is the better option as it a lot easier to get things "gadgets" that run on it.




    .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Trying to make the most of the weather; I have the starboard side nearly finished.
    Port and stern over the net couple of days.
    Attached are two NASA marine unites.
    If there is anyone familiar with units. Fell free to comment, I been trying to find some manuals for them
    I need a few parts for each unit, they are available, a paddle for the speed log, and maybe a transponder, for the depth log
    Are these type of units any good, or should I try and get new systems


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    Hi Copper12, what an amazing transformation. Wish I had your patience, but I am learning..
    I have used those units in the past and never had an issue with them. If you can get the parts (not sure how easy that will be) and they work, you shouldnt have any issues..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Sadler 32
    Would you by any chance have the wiring diagram for these, the speed and distance log, has a green wire, that I am not sure off?
    The depth has an orange wire, that I think is wired up to an alarm?
    Any information could be helpful


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    Hi copper12. Not sure if this is any use. http://www.seatronic.no/pdf/nasa/Target.pdf
    http://www.nasamarine.com/images/Target%202%20Depth,%20Wind%20&%20Log.pdf
    It is for the tri system, but seem to mention the coloured wires you talk about.
    I am away at sea at the moment, so dont have my box of manuals to hand.
    I hope this is of some use. If not I can look in the box when I get home.
    I am currently using the nasa clipper wind, nasa clipper depth, nasa ais radar and clipper navtex. I am really happy with their systems and never had any issues, and have done a far bit of cruising out of Dublin.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Are all these units together; connected in some way’ are they stand alone units
    Thanks for the response saddler


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    I think the links are for a three in one unit. But they seem to talk about them individually...

    So I am not sure, I thought maybe looking at what you have and comparing it to the link it might make sense? maybe not....


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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 6,337 Mod ✭✭✭✭fergal.b


    I wonder are we at the stage now where an iPad or tablet will do the work of most marine equipment something like this looks good http://raymarine.kuluvalley.com/view/o5kaE6FdBXD?t=mo&autoPlay=true&AppProperties.PlayerShowEmbedButton=false and there are a lot of other good apps about, might be worth thinking about :)




    .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 481 ✭✭Deenie123


    fergal.b wrote: »
    I wonder are we at the stage now where an iPad or tablet will do the work of most marine equipment something like this looks good http://raymarine.kuluvalley.com/view/o5kaE6FdBXD?t=mo&autoPlay=true&AppProperties.PlayerShowEmbedButton=false and there are a lot of other good apps about, might be worth thinking about :)




    .


    Still can't beat paper charts in some respects. I wouldn't put my life in the hands of apple!

    I've found before that some plotters are a bit notorious for not showing underwater hazards unless you're zoomed right in. Makes me wonder if this played a part in the recent grounding of the VO65...? On the video released, it certainly seems to show the reef disappearing entirely once zoomed out at all. That's pure speculation, but electronic plotters are not something I'm quite ready to trust my life to just yet...

    I'd be equally wary of getting rid of tried and tested instruments


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    For someone like me’ just starting out’ the options available’ are too much for me to comprehend.
    The cost of some of this gear; is more that I have spent to date; on Coe Na Mara.
    The minimum requirements’ needed to sale safely is what I require.
    Compass. depth sounder. and speed indicator. that’s all that was installed in this boat.

    Do I need any more, and could technology provide me with the rest.
    The internet; the amount of free information available to download.
    Forums like the boards, people like yourself ‘Fergal ;Pedro’ and others; who freely give there advise’ and knowledge.
    Without it I would probably be still scraping paint off the hull.
    All the advise I have that I have been given; I am grateful for’ it has gotten me this far.
    i suppose the question is; what do I need in order to go sailing .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    I do think technology is great. There is so much out there. I do think there is an over reliance on it though.

    I had an interesting trip home from the Isle of man this summer. About half way between Douglas and Dublin, all my electrics died.
    Had a decision to make, keep going with the wind to a place I knew or turn back and head the shorter distance against the wind to a place I didnt know so well.

    I tried to start the engine but wouldnt kick. So i decided to save what was left of the juice. Got the solar charger out and connected it to the battery, and continued to my home port. The issue turned out to be a faulty alternator and hadnt been charging the batteries properly.
    The solar panel charged the battery enough that when I got to port I could start the engine.

    I sailed the rest of that trip using a magnetic compass, sextant and guessing my speed. It worked out well, and once I got in sight of land, I was able to adjust my course to head home. I also had a hand held vhf, in case I needed to contact anyone close by.

    I work at sea and we have electronic charts, no paper ones. I dont like it at all. You are correct fergal b, it doesnt show some hazards at greater scales, it is down to the navigator to pick the correct scale for the area being navigated. Which is fine unless you want to zoom out a little, to see whats ahead, and sometimes in doing so, the hazard disappears from the chart screen.. I dont like it at all.....

    Copper12 in answer to your question, there isnt really a definitive answer. .
    It depends on what you want to do when you get sailing.
    In my opinion, and its only my opinion, so I would be interested to hear other peoples views.
    Your speed and depth and compass, Will tell you how much water you have and how fast your going, (helps with dead reconning) and you will be able to follow your planned route using your compass.
    It all about what you want. Do you want all the gadgets or be back to basics.
    A Vhf, either portable of fixed, to communicate with other boats, might be an advantage (but certs etc are required).

    What you have is a great starting point and it can always be built on, as your experience grows and your requirements change.

    On my boat I have an AIS, GPS, fixed VHF, handheld chart plotter, handheld vhf, Navtex, autopilot, wind speed and direction, boat speed, compass etc. Out of the electrics I only really use the vhf, speed and depth. For longer cruising the gps and AIS to see the ships in the irish sea.

    I suppose All you really need to go sailing is that amazing boat of yours and a set of sails.... See what your requirements are once your on the water.......


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    Hi Copper,
    With a compass, log/distance run, boatspeed and depth indicator you have the very basics, enough to get by. IMO having too many electronic instruments is a distraction and more things to break down. If you are doing 'manual' navigation you always have a good idea of where you are, not always the case if you just look at electronics periodically.
    Over and above what you have, a combined windspeed/wind direction unit would be nice as it is useful for night sailing and helps prevent a pain in the neck from looking up at the burgee all the time.
    Excluding all the fancy GPS & plotter stuff, for coastal navigation I would want :-
    The compass to be properly swung (google swinging a compass) with its deviation card.
    The appropriate paper chart(s), preferably laminated (one for route planning, other(s) for close-in navigation).
    A cruising guide (the Irish Cruising Club ones, two volumes S&W and E&N Coasts, are good, but there are others), these give all harbour/anchorage details and lots of other useful stuff.
    A book of tide tables
    A set of dividers and a parallel ruler, pencils & erasers.
    A good handbearing compass to plot a fix using triangulation.
    Not necessary but nice would be a handheld radio direction finder (not great on the S coast as the radio fixes are a bit 'linear'.)
    Finally, before you start the wiring make sure you obtain marine grade wire and don't be tempted to run anything through the bilges. I think I still have an old book on boat wiring and will be back with my books at Christmas – I’ll have a look and send you a PM.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    So what you’re trying to say is that the sat nav; out of the car’ and john clese, and telling me I have reached my distenation is out of the question.:o
    Thanks for the response gentlemen, there’s a lot for me to think about.
    I put the NASA marine depth and speed log across a battery. they lit up; and seem to be ok’ so pulled or rather pushed the transducer see the attached photo. It may not have been working.
    So I need a new one :(
    I am probably concerning my self with things that in time I will learn.
    But since I like to plan ahead; I should invest in the best equipment possible; not necessarily the dearest.
    Top of the mast; a good wind vane’ wind speed indicator’ connected to an instrument at the helm.
    A good quality depth sounder. And speed indicator, vhf antenna, mast head lights everything else can be fitter without either demasting or having to haul the boat out of the water.
    Have I missed anything?:rolleyes:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 90 ✭✭Sadler32


    Hi Copper12.

    Nice work, shes looking well.

    I think the individual parts are available from nasa. As for installing everything from the start. If you are happy with what you need and budget allows that certainly is the easiest thing to do.
    But it can always be done in the future when you know what you want and when the boat comes out for maintainence or the winter...

    I do believe your right and the most expensive stuff is not always the best. But do look at how easily parts are to get etc...


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,108 ✭✭✭pedroeibar1


    Nice photos Copper, she's looking great!
    You've got it; a log will give you speed and distance travelled - the speed will help you calculate leeway and also indicate estimated time of arrival, the distance covered will show you how far you are along your 'line'. The depthsounder is very useful to check a position on a chart (you get a fix and then crosscheck the depth on the chart with the depth shown on the sounder). Windspeed & wind direction are useful but are less important than the others.
    (and dismasting is something very nasty, I know you mean 'un-stepping' the mast.:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    Evening all
    I have made a start, on the forward bulkheads.
    It was a lot easier than I expected, I must be getting the hang of it.
    here a few of the old bulk head photos and the new ones.
    I am still leaning towards putting the chain plates on the outside, because of the damage done by water ingress, from where the old chain plates, went true the decking.
    I might remove the screws, that will be visible, and replace them with brass crews, or copper nails,
    I wait and see how they look


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 680 ✭✭✭copper12


    new bulkhead


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 481 ✭✭Deenie123


    Can't wait to see it finished, very exciting :)


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