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1980s bungalow renovation

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Also hope you're not breathing any of it in.

    Goes with the territory I'm afraid. Nosebleeds, sore throat and a general feeling of being unwell. Aching joints. Anti-histamines help. Just glad the kids are away so they don't suffer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,837 ✭✭✭TheLastMohican


    FortySeven wrote: »
    Anyone any idea what this fungally type growth is called? This is my bedroom floor. Bleh!

    IMAG0505_zpstf5qhdfq.jpg

    Serpula lacrymans - or just dry rot. These strands take water from wet areas to drier ones. The non passage of air under the floating floor exacerbates this.
    Solid plaster should finish at least 1" above a concrete floor and the skim coat another inch. This can be covered by the skirting (which should be stuck on if in a basement to ensure that it doesn't permeate a damp-proof plaster).
    Drywall panels should never touch the floor as little spills can migrate upwards.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Not much going on, I taped up some plastic to isolate the living area from the infected area. Bought myself a mask and went in and had a good clean around. I have put down two moisture traps on the concrete floor to see if they are moist.

    IMAG0520_zps36iy1dxt.jpg


    Been down 24 hours and no sign of any moisture yet. We are alternately heating and opening windows to try and dry out the house. Getting a large dehumidifier next week for 2 weeks to help it along.

    Sprayed all the mould tonight with 10% vinegar while I wait for borax and boric acid to arrive in the post. Will be cleaning all the mould tomorrow and then spraying everything with a good dose of the borax/boric acid solution. This was cheap enough, total cost €17 with post.

    Will get the water out with the dehumidifier and see where we are after that.

    Buying trickle vents for all windows for retroffitting. 10 cost around €50 and should add some background ventilation. Looking to beef up the bathroom extractor by changing the standard one for an inline unit that I can mount in the loft. The local grow shop has specialist silent ones designed for venting grow rooms and also insulated ducting to stop the moisture condensing in the line. I'm thinking this should work without the annoying drone.

    Pricing new rads, took me a while to realise the ones we have are not metric, going to need some expanded unions but they seem cheap enough. The 6 large rads we have will come to €419 delivered and will need a few expanders at €8 each. I discovered the heating pipes are insulated in the floor so that is a bonus.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    Could i ask where you're getting the borax from. I have an old neighbour who was saying it's very hard to get now in a pharmacy.
    I got some for him last year in the north. He puts it on vegatable seeds before sowing. Must be some wise old practice. Not sure what it does for them!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Bought it on ebay. Just search for borax, there are a few different sellers in the UK. Better wait and see if customs let it through before ordering though. It's a bag of white powder.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 28,118 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Odd co-incidence but I was talking to a pharmacist about Borax yesterday, I had been told it could not be got, but it is available. Pharmacy quantities (tiny tubs) would be no use for this job though.

    edit: interesting thread, following with interest (and sympathy)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    No real news today. Moisture traps are still bone dry. Odd. Expected some moisture coming up. I went up in the loft and cleared a bunch of crap (old mattresses and headboards etc) left up there by the previous tenants and set up a few flourescents for working. Found a hole in the gable wall the size of a football to accomodate a wire for the lamp above the bathroom mirror. Let me get a poke at the insulation in the cavity. All seems in order, might see about getting an inspection camera to have a look if the cavity is fouled before I seal it up.

    Still alternating the heating and the windows. Bought a damp meter on flea bay for 25 quid. Will see how we get on, also a hygrometer to measure humidity for the wallet busting sum of 5 euros. Not sure how well they will work but worth a punt for domestic use.

    This weekend will be mainly pulling out all the old fibreglass from the loft and hoovering all the spiders and guano out of there. Hopefully moving on the mice and birds too. Then I can get on with some wiring identification and removing all the unnecesary UPC, eircom and various other random aerial wires etc.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Nothing done today really. My old mower died, well, got too expensive to keep running so today went and bought a new one due to the grass being 2ft high. Cut the front and rear lawns and removed a few eircom boxes from the bedrooms. Still zero moisture in my moisture traps.

    Off up into the loft now to pull a few bags of insulation out. Having a run of bad luck at the moment, my car was running on 3 cylinders on the way home due to a dodgy coil pack, need to sort that and the missus' car has the check engine light on, 2 weeks after new engine fitted plus the brakes failed on the way home, need to fix that asap so won't get much done this weekend. Will rent the dehumidifier though.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    OK, the loft. Someone was kind enough to put up 6 bags of fibreglass, not kind enough to lay them though. This is the space, note the line of bat**** up the middle.

    IMAG0521_zpscxm7finw.jpg

    Parts are uninsulated like this, that vent pipe is not connected to the bathroom fan. Fan vents straight into attic. There is also a birds nest in the eaves in that corner. They have moved out now though.


    IMAG0522_zpsztxnhfad.jpg

    An idea of the wiring I have to tidy and sort.

    IMAG0523_zpsjff0yfw1.jpg

    This support has been moved or has moved, I will tap it back tomorrow if I remember. Close to coming through the ceiling. :eek:

    IMAG0524_zpsy12budz4.jpg

    Quite a few of these holes in the felt. Probably where the bats are coming in. Not sure how I will seal these up yet.

    IMAG0526_zps4zubzcxv.jpg

    Evidence of mice. I put these pipes up here for storage so this mice crap is fresh.

    IMAG0529_zpswzgdj9iq.jpg

    Forgot what a pain in the arse fibreglass is, eyes too. Managed to clear one side of the loft, about a quarter of total area of fibreglass. Not so easy bagging the buggers up though. Might try and get bigger bags tomorrow. Gave up as my knees had enough and sweating like a trooper. Will get the rest over the weekend.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Are many of the ceilings cracked? Can't see any bridging pieces.

    Was helping a family member who bought a very similar place back in April. A day in the attic cutting and fixing in bridging :-)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Are many of the ceilings cracked? Can't see any bridging pieces.

    Was helping a family member who bought a very similar place back in April. A day in the attic cutting and fixing in bridging :-)


    Minimal cracking in the ceilings. Can you explain what you mean by bridging?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Few bits and bobs done today. Not much really. Have the dehumidifier working away in the back bedroom. Sealed it up.

    IMAG0531_zpsdbfjccfo.jpg

    Bought new rads, 1 x 1600mm, 1 x 1400mm, 1 x 1200mm, 2 x 1000mm and a double leaf 600mm plus 6 x TRVs for €323. Cheaper than I thought. Need to get some extender tails to sort the difference in size from the imperial. These are a bit smaller but I expect they will be as warm.

    IMAG0530_zpsoydjaqhj.jpg

    Pulled some more insulation from the loft, this wiring drives me crazy, can't wait to tidy it up. Cleared a good bit of unused cabling.

    IMAG0535_zps1oy0tal7.jpg

    Pulled out the bags of insulation that were upstairs, some are OK, 2 are rotten as is a lot of the stuff that was laid. Looks like bat piss has ruined it. Smells awful up there. This is all getting chucked. Going with earthwool I think. 100mm for now. Will top it up later.

    IMAG0534_zpssc306q8b.jpg

    My other half has been busy stripping the paint off the bathroom walls, it comes off in sheets. I think this was painted too soon after it was plastered. We will be tiling so it has to go.

    IMAG0532_zps2n1v3i0c.jpg

    Started making a burning barrell before the rain started, hopefully will get it finished tomorrow and can start burning all the old wood we have stacked around the house.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    20 hours in and the dehumidifier has finally shut off. 4 litres extracted from the room. This is the machine we rented.

    IMAG0536_zpsinh0vy0m.jpg

    Going to leave it in there for now and see what it comes up with.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,367 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    FortySeven wrote: »
    Minimal cracking in the ceilings. Can you explain what you mean by bridging?

    They are cross pieces that go between the joists. They stop the joists from warping over time and stop them cracking the ceilings below. They make the over all structure stronger too.

    Get some rough timer the same thickness as the joist then cut to the correct length then fix in place with two long screws either end. I would stagger the pieces. Your joists are probably all different lengths, so you'll probably have to measure each one or just cut a range of pieces then mix and match when your up there.


    bridging.gif


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    They are cross pieces that go between the joists. They stop the joists from warping over time and stop them cracking the ceilings below. They make the over all structure stronger too.

    Get some rough timer the same thickness as the joist then cut to the correct length then fix in place with two long screws either end. I would stagger the pieces. Your joists are probably all different lengths, so you'll probably have to measure each one or just cut a range of pieces then mix and match when your up there.


    bridging.gif


    Thanks, no, there is no bridging. Seems like a wise idea, I will add it to the list. What kind of spacing would be optimal? Every 2m be sufficient? I guess they should be staggered? (edit, just re-read your post) Staggered it is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Wow, some of this stuff is hilarious. This is a join in the shower mains cable. :eek: Found it when pulling insulation. What annoys me most is the regulation that forbids me from sorting it out without paying for an electricians next holiday.

    IMAG0538_zpsqswotgnv.jpg

    IMAG0539_zpswwg3d8do.jpg

    I suppose there is nothing really dangerous about it if it is not pulled on, I just can't stand shoddy workmanship.

    Pulled a few oddments and bits and bobs surplus to requirements. Too hot up there to do much labour. Short bursts only.

    IMAG0537_zps12ywn4ge.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,210 ✭✭✭bonzodog2


    If you wanted to change that join to an enclosed junction box, you wouldn't be creating a new circuit, or working on the consumer unit, so if you're confident, I'd go for it. However, that cable looks on the light side, i.e possibly not suitable for a modern shower.


  • Registered Users Posts: 37,295 ✭✭✭✭the_syco


    FortySeven wrote: »
    Now if someone could invent a stove with a timer...
    Automatic wood pellet stove; http://www.greenheat.ie/products/stoves/free-standing-dry-stoves/wood-pellet-dry-stoves/siria-830/

    Have used a wood pellet stove in a self catering place up north; it heated up the place nicely!
    FortySeven wrote: »
    Forgot what a pain in the arse fibreglass is, eyes too.
    Why the funk are you not wearing goggles and wearing a mask over your mouth? Fiberglass in the lungs or eyes is NOT good!!!
    FortySeven wrote: »
    Pulled a few oddments and bits and bobs surplus to requirements. Too hot up there to do much labour. Short bursts only.
    The aerial should be still good for saorview; have one sort of like it in the attic.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    bonzodog2 wrote: »
    If you wanted to change that join to an enclosed junction box, you wouldn't be creating a new circuit, or working on the consumer unit, so if you're confident, I'd go for it. However, that cable looks on the light side, i.e possibly not suitable for a modern shower.

    TBH, it's looking like a complete rewire, need a new consumer panel so may as well lay all the wiring, chase all the walls etc. The regulations here are ridiculous though. Will have to think whether I am going to comply with them or not.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    the_syco wrote: »
    Automatic wood pellet stove; http://www.greenheat.ie/products/stoves/free-standing-dry-stoves/wood-pellet-dry-stoves/siria-830/

    Have used a wood pellet stove in a self catering place up north; it heated up the place nicely!


    Why the funk are you not wearing goggles and wearing a mask over your mouth? Fiberglass in the lungs or eyes is NOT good!!!


    The aerial should be still good for saorview; have one sort of like it in the attic.


    Like the idea of the wood pellet stove but not the storing of the wood pellets. Also, not convinced on price. It is something I am considering though, that or the solid fuel boilers from Poland, they burn anything and are commonplace over there.

    I am wearing mask and gloves. The goggles are a waste of time in the heat, I just end up steamed up in seconds and can see nothing.

    Aerial is good, I have saorview from a different aerial though, this one is just left lying up there.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Got my burning barrel finished, must have put a good transit load of wood through it so far today. Still a good bit to go.

    IMAG0540_zps7lnnfics.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 78 ✭✭intro


    Just came to this discussion and I was wondering if you disinfected the water system after you flushed it? If you hav'nt the pipes and tank could still be contaminated with god knows what bacteria. If you need to do it get the cheapest "thin" bleach available, most of which are around 5% sodium hypochlorite. Pour it into the water tank. Run each cold tap until you get a smell of chlorine from the water and then close the tap. When you have the cold system done you could do the hot system. You may need to top up the chlorine in the main tank depending on the volume of water used into the hot water cyinder/system. Leave overnight if possible. then flush all pipes. Run each tap until there is no chlorine smell from the water. Do every tap in turn so you dont end up with a mouthtful of chlorine or a change in hair colour. You can get test strips to show the presence of the chlorine but if you can smell ok it would not really be necessary. If anyone has had rats in the attic it is also safer to disinfect the water system. Best of luck with the job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    Cheers intro, I did flush the water system with 10 litres of 10% acetic acid. Twice as strong as vinegar. I'm happy enough it cleaned the pipes as it flushed through the green oxidation from the pipes. Only that one tap from the water tank, didn't do the shower right enough but that is getting replaced.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    No updates for a while. Been too tired.

    Got my damp meter and it confirms my suspicions with larger readings the closer I get to the pipe that was dripping when we moved in. It was repaired ages ago but the wall next to it is reading 40% and the readings going down the further I move away. That wall is coming down and we will extend the bathroom out by about 2m. No need to worry about damp in that wall.

    Spent the last few evenings removing the radiators, bought myself a dremel, been meaning to for years but needed something to cut the olives off the pipes. Great tool.

    IMAG0546_zpsduczhpow.jpg

    Received two bags of white powder in the post too. No issues with customs. Now ready to treat the affected plasterwork.

    Dehumidifier has been working away, took a load of water from the room nearest the bathroom, less from the one further away.

    Altogether, pretty happy with the progress, hope to get a lot more done this weekend.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    After the dehumidifier dried out the bathroom I noticed the wall started darkening again the next day. Decided to do a bit of digging.

    Wow. Clearly there had been some work done here. Best bit was digging, first surprise was a biro, then some tiles, a few cloths and a load of gravel. Seems they just tipped the rubble into the hole and cemented over it. Anyway, exposed this.

    IMAG0555_zps2lynqb0q.jpg

    IMAG0551_zpsg1z3ol2p.jpg

    I nicked one of the plastic pipes so had to switch off the water so decided to remove the bath and toilet too. Now have an empty box and can dig up the rest of the floor, I will be replacing all the pipes.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    So, killed myself for a few days and then bit the bullet and went and rented a hilti for the weekend. Could have rented it for a day really but at €39 for the weekend was certainly good value. Have dug the floor as far as the wetness spreads. Seem to have hit dry concrete now so problem must have been along here but I am still not convinced by the loose stack pipe outside so will be taking up the concrete out there too.

    IMAG0557_zpsz8uydauq.jpg

    IMAG0558_zpsm0hjndty.jpg

    I took up the floor in the bedroom to enable us to move the wall. Also rented a couple of props to hold the ceiling for €5 plus vat per week.

    IMAG0559_zpsrq63iztt.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    So, we have decided not to move the wall. We are limited for time and are getting distracted by this and it is a considerable amount of extra work we don't need. Wish we had made this decision before I broke up the screed in the bedroom but I suppose it was wet and smelly anyway. Spent today removing the pipes from the bathroom, have capped the ends and have the water back on. Fitted a couple of radiators too. I also did a bit of digging outside to check the sewer pipe was not damaged from the stack pipe swinging in the wind. (The brackets are broken and it is not secured to the wall.)

    IMAG0562_zpscmjkisik.jpg

    That ducting you can see to the right is the imaginatively routed cable for the air pump in our septic tank. It runs through the loft and down the cavity a bit and then out through this duct to THIS!

    IMAG0563_zpsj3hx5a1r.jpg

    They had cut a trough in the concrete, laid the wire in it and put some wood over the top, then the wire goes into underground ducting, hidden under a conveniently placed large rock, then disappears under a flowerbed of sorts made out of decking.

    Dug out the waste pipe to check for leaks. Seems fine.

    IMAG0561_zpsl1o7ce3a.jpg

    Need some advice on this though if there is anyone following this thread that can advise I would be most grateful. There was a very hollow sounding corner in our bedroom, could not work out why as I would not expect the pipes to be there as this wall backs onto our front step. (Outside) So I decided to chop a bit up and discovered this.

    IMAG0565_zpspz7uipyl.jpg

    This is very different to the setup in the hall and bathroom. Here the pipes are laid below the screed. You can see the damp proof membrane in the wall. They go out under the wall and then through our concrete step, here is a pic of the step. You can see a dpm here too.

    IMAG0566_zpsopgqjrrr.jpg

    Is this normal? I was under the impression that the dpm should not be bridged yet this hole was full of (albeit bone dry) screed. Here is another closer pic of DPM.

    IMAG0564_zpshwtp4lo0.jpg

    Cheers in advance for any advice.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18 crow75


    following your thread with interest as my house is in a similar condition! did you check attic joists and lathes for woodworm?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,151 ✭✭✭kupus


    Dpm should not be bridged. Maybe it's a retro fit. Sorry can't help much with Dpm

    For googles, clean out googles with warm water. Then coat it with a film of shaving cream or soap or fairy liquid wipe it in good and well. It helps to prevent condensation. And invest in a good mask. It saves money and coughing in the long run.
    In the past if I had the full enclosed glasses I would cut holes in the underside where they wrap around under eyes to give it space to breathe. Coz the mask would be under the glasses and it's just a case of direct condensation.

    As for running wires. I think you can run all you want to the circuit board but you need a qualified licensed electrican to wire the board. That piece of paper would come in handy if something happens and insurance company gets involved. They will do everything in their power not to pay out so better not give them a reason not to.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,296 ✭✭✭FortySeven


    crow75 wrote: »
    following your thread with interest as my house is in a similar condition! did you check attic joists and lathes for woodworm?

    All seems to be in order in the loft except for a few squint supports the wood is good and dry. No sign of infestation except for the bats.

    Thanks for popping in, was starting to think I was the only person here, if I can help in any way feel free to ask but I'm purely an amateur DIYer and I'm learning most of this as I go.


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