chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

pedroeibar1 · 15-12-2014 11:06am

Hi Copper,
Looking at those photos a couple of comments – if the screws are not stainless you will get oxidization staining. The 2x4’s – did you soak them in preservative? A lot can happen to untreated wood in a confined space that is subject to damp. (Fergal would be best on this for comment.) Also, have you considered the wiring loom? If you are going to route everything through the ceilingspace and “drop down” the wiring you might consider using some pre-bored holes in the bulkheads with string to pull the wires through? ...thinking of a reading light over a bunk.
Rs
P.

copper12 · 15-12-2014 5:41pm

Pedro they are stainless
The screws used to date below the water line; have been either bronze or copper rivets, above the water line stainless.
Inside stainless with the odd recycled copper nail.
I went stone made during the week and spent a few bob

A second hand Quicksilver Inflatable Dinghy
For 190€
I have come across four 100ah deep cycle batteries’ so I invested in an Infinitum Battery Desulphator.
And seeing as a I was on a roll;:eek: a Shakespeare YHK Stainless steel Hawk whip Antenna with wind indicator & PL-259 c.
I also gave the forward and aft section, a coat of paint, it gave me the chance to examine the ribs, and decided to fit four sister ribs.

copper12 · 23-12-2014 5:09pm

Evening all
Just thought I would give an update.
In the last post Pedro asked me if I had given the bulk head a coat of wood preserver
As the frame 3x2 is made of oak I didn’t think it necessary.
With the good weather I have been working on the outside hull and decking.
I am about ready to fit a toe rail; over the Christmas, I have been trimming and cutting along the edges of the edge plank. I have the toe rail ready to scarf .
I fitted two new oak bollards. Basically I copied the originals’ and fitted them the same way.
I just have to drill holes in either one, and fit a stainless bar.
I have given them a coat of my own varnish.
A mixture of boiled linseed oil’ ordinary varnish’ white sprits’ and antique pine wood stain.
I was given this recipe buy a painter; 15 years ago, when I built my house, and it has stood the test of time.
I get two to tree years between coats.
I have also primed the seams below the water line, and will fill them over the Christmas period; hopefully.
I hope the weather stays reasonable, and I get something done.
At least now I can work on the inside if it get’s too bad
Here are a few photos it explains thing better than me

copper12 · 23-12-2014 5:10pm

just two more

fergal.b · 23-12-2014 5:31pm

It cane out very well fair play to you, it's a bit nerve wracking cutting a hole that size in the deck :eek:

copper12 · 24-12-2014 9:37pm

I don’t know witch job was the hardest

pedroeibar1 · 24-12-2014 11:32pm

Wait until Ikea comes to the PRC!!
Happy Christmas Copper, and thanks for keeping us interested, amused and envious during 2014!
P

copper12 · 25-12-2014 7:06am

I had to get up and look after Dustin anyway

I have been warned not to even look at the boat to day
So happy Christmas

I have fitted one toe rail section to the starboard side
15ft section made up two scarf’s resorcinol glue
I will leave it there for a couple of days then remove it and bed it properly
It should hold its shape and be easier to fit
I will try the port side tomorrow

copper12 · 25-12-2014 7:07am

one or two more

copper12 · 29-12-2014 9:04pm

Evening all
Finished the starboard side toe rail, almost the finished the port side, but a joint broke, most likely due to the temperature, and amount of time, I gave it to cure. The curve swings nearly tree feet ove its length When I have finished these, I will leave them for a week or so, to settle, and the remove them, and bed them properly.
It’s been cold the least few nights,
I have also made a start on the forward opening, well’ is the youngfella that’s started it, I’m just the gofer, you know yourself’ go for this’ hand me that, hold the dopey end of the measuring tape .:mad:
I got feed up of that, and made a start on the end of the transom

It will take a day or two to finish the hatch, and then I will post a few pictures.
I thought I would have gotten a bit more done, over the last few days, but because of the frost, I can’t get up on on the scaffold until midday. It better than rain n I suppose
Hope you all had a good Christmas .

copper12 · 31-12-2014 6:52am

Evening all
The young lad is still working on the forward hatch.
He said it would take him a day or two; day three and he’s still at it.:rolleyes:
I could have told him it would take at least four. If not five days.
But’ me being a quite old goat, kept my mouth shut, and left him at it.:cool:
In fairness to him, it’s not all his fault’ it’s taking so long because’ he keeps office hours.
Before he starts, he has to be interrogated by his mother, and then fed; she’s shovelling food into him like theirs no tomorrow.
It’s been bitter cold; and with the frost, he can’t start until eleven or twelve.
I been putting the finishing touches to the transom and the toe rail; in between being fed; if he’s gets it so do I.

pedroeibar1 · 31-12-2014 12:59pm

Looking at that toe-rail, Copper, have you considered putting a few gaps in it to allow the water run off rather than be channelled aft?

Also, on the electronics, I have that book I mentioned a while back, it’s “The Complete Book of Boat Electronics “ by Ernest Zadig – it’s a bit dated, from the mid 1980’s - you are welcome to have it if you think it would help. Contents are
• Pt. 1: The world of electronics.
1. Electronics aboard boats
• 2. The ubiquitous electron
• 3. The transistor and the diode
• 4. Circuit components
• 5. The vanishing vacuum tube.
Pt. 2: Basic electronic circuits.
. Tuners
• 7. Oscillators
• 8. Rectifiers and power supplies
• 9. Pulse techniques
• 10. Electric filters
• 11. Amplifiers: radio and audio.
Pt. 3: Electronic construction.
12. Hard wiring
• 13. Printed circuits
• 14. Integrated circuits
• 15. Calculators for navigation.
Pt. 4: Boat electronic equipment.
16. Receivers, transmitters and transceivers
• 17. Depth sounders and their use
• 18. Direction finders and their use
• 19. Loran and its use
• 20. Radar and its use
• 21. Auto pilots
• 22. Satellite navigation
• 23. Hailers, alarms and accessories.
Pt. 5: Installation and maintenance.
• 24. Antennas, grounds and transmission lines
• 25. Lightning and static
• 26. Power for electronic
• 26 Safe wiring practices
• 28. Electronic maintenance.
Pt. 6: Testing and repairing.
29. Trouble shooting
• 30. Test equipment and its use
• 31. Operating procedures
• 32. Television afloat
• 33. Hi-fi on board.

copper12 · 31-12-2014 1:43pm

Thanks for the offer Pedro
As for the gaps’ I will put a few in’ when it comes time’ to permanently fix the toe rail.
I am hoping that the rail will hold its shape’ if so, then I can cut them out’ before I set the rail.
If it doesn’t hold its shape; then I will have to cut them out; when it’s fixed.
I have a book, I went stone mad before Christmas, and bought the Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical Manual and Boats Electrical System, I should have enough in these, thanks again for the offer.
Pedro have you any recommendation, as to what type of rope’ I should go for.
I have been looking at a few different types, and have come to the conclusion,

that a good quality; 10 or 12mm braided polypropylene’ 100mt roll should go a long way

pedroeibar1 · 01-01-2015 3:26pm

copper12 wrote: »

Pedro have you any recommendation, as to what type of rope’ I should go for.
I have been looking at a few different types, and have come to the conclusion, that a good quality; 10 or 12mm braided polypropylene’ 100mt roll should go a long way

I think we are at the next stage …..rigging? Have you decided on where the halyards will run? Inside or outside the mast? As you intend to go long distance eventually, for the halyards I would favour a wire to rope splice, as the wear & tear factor would be better. Others more used to modern ropes – Spectra and Dyneema for example might have suggestions on using them. (I know nothing of the new-fangled techy stuff!)

IMO an important question is colour coding – if you want someone to do something in a hurry it is not very useful to shout “It’s the ##### blue one!” when all are blue. It also would be useful to use the same colour codes for both masts. You have a lot of cordage to buy!
Main and mizzen halyards
Jib/genoa halyard
Staysail halyard
Spinnaker halyard
Mizzen staysail halyard
Sheets for all the above.
Main boom topping lift
Mizzen boom topping lift
Spinnaker pole uphaul and downhauls.
Boom down-hauls Main & Mizzen
Mooring lines
Anchor warp and chain.
Bell rope

The actual diameter and weight necessary for each will be determined by your sail size. Bear in mind the diameter when buying sheaves for the mast head/foot over which the halyards must run, same for fairlead sizes and also winches (if you get self-tailing ones.) Make sure you allow enough for the various bits to run back to the cockpit…

Lots of other folk here should have some more ideas.

neris · 01-01-2015 6:01pm

Id recommend dynema for halyards. Wire is outdated at this stage. I used new dynema for my runners last summer instead of wire and just as strong. A good thick dynema main & jib halyard will help with sail tension and shape (sailmakers recommendation). If you are buying all new halyards and sheets see if you can get measurements for all rope and expected thickness then get your self online and price up on rigging sites in the UK before you go anywhere near an Irish rigging shop. Ive used Jimmy Green Marine for a new halyard and checkstay lines and including delivery was good service and very competitive.

It might also be worth planning a trip to Beaulie boat jumble in April. Ive not been but going over, Mate im going with went before with his dad and they got some great stuff including a decent used spinnaker

tinski07 · 01-01-2015 6:46pm

Ken got rigging for his mirror offshore a few years back from UK yachting supplies that were quite reasonable, They have an ebay shop, For Teals standing rigging we went to Harry Louis, I think he is Kinsale based but he copied the old shrouds for us then came and swaged the ends for us when we had the mast stepped in the yard.

copper12 · 02-01-2015 11:28pm

Evening all
I managed to get a bit done today.
It’s just as well the weather had been bad over the last couple of days.
I had a dose of the flu; so spent the last couple of days; drinking hot toddy’s and watching box sets, of downtown abbey.
Anyway’ I removed the forward sections of the toe rail’ in order to bed them permanently
As I had hoped; that held there shape, enough’ for me to put in some drain holes’ two either side.
The aft section should only need one cut out, either side.
There will be smaller ones’ either side of the sail track’ so I think that should be enough.
I have been playing around with the running rigging; anyone who offers advice, will need the patience of a saint; as this is completely new to me.
Attached is a drawing, showing the halyards’ I think I require, plus topping lift, and boom track.
These are the main load bearing ropes; the rest would be sheets and guide ropes?
I will take a few measurements over the next couple of days and add them.
Thank again for all the advice

neris · 03-01-2015 10:04pm

Outhaul, Spnni pole up & down hauls. If your using it lines for furling systems aswell

spaceHopper · 04-01-2015 12:06pm

On the boat i crew on the main halyard doubles as the topping lift might help if you need to cut one rope out. You might never use a spinnaker but being able to pole out a head sail for downwind sailing could be usefull so rig for a spinnaker

pedroeibar1 · 04-01-2015 8:59pm

spaceHopper wrote: »

On the boat i crew on the main halyard doubles as the topping lift might help if you need to cut one rope out. You might never use a spinnaker but being able to pole out a head sail for downwind sailing could be usefull so rig for a spinnaker

Not a good idea when the boom is heavy; what holds the boom up when reefing? or in the period between dropping the main and hanking on the halyard?

(Apols Copper

, what made me think she was a ketch

? )

neris · 04-01-2015 9:44pm

for cruising your better off with topping lift especially if short handed. saves faffing about with the halyard and the boom when you drop the main

copper12 · 06-01-2015 6:22pm

Evening all
I had all the time in the world to fit the bolts to the bow section
This would tie the forestay as well but wouldn’t you know I left the top two bolts out
I only spotted it when I went to paint that section
Since there was no way I could fit true the opening I was tempted to leave it as it was
But I found a way
Grab a grandchild

pedroeibar1 · 06-01-2015 11:15pm

As the great-aunt, a Cork woman, used to say about me when I was a small boy doing jobs for her - "You're as handy as a small pot!"

copper12 · 08-01-2015 1:44am

Evening all
Since it’s been raining, I said I would post this.
Do you remember I got four’ 12 volt’ 100ah’ lead acid batteries?
Before Christmas; well’ I have been playing around with them for the last couple of weeks.
They had no electrolyte left in them; as they were lying around for a couple of years.
Since I got them for free, I decided to try and revive them; and since I had some gear lying around, most likely bought off the twins, over the years, I said I would give it a go.
I added about a litre of distilled water to each battery.
The highest reading from any of the batteries was 2 volts.
I started off with a 12 volt trickle charger; 12 volt inverter ‘one that you plug into the cigarette lighter, and the 24 volt inverter that fell of the back of a truck .
Any way’ to make a long storey even longer, I had to use a slave battery, and got one of the batteries to accept a charge, when I got this battery up to 12.5 volts, I modified the 12 volt inverter, basically took off the lighter socket, and fitted two crocodile clips, then used this battery to charge the next battery.
In order to try and rejuvenate the batteries, you have to keep charging, and discharging, them.
I finally got them all to accept a charge, then went stone mad; and bought a proper charger.
One that has a fast and a trickle charge
So the way I have it set up now, is that I join two batteries, to give me 24 volts, and use the 24 volt inverter, to fast charge the other two batteries, true the fast charger, also connected is a desulfator.
There is a marked improvement in there performance in the last week or so
I will keep playing around with them for the next couple of weeks.
Who knows; I might get them up and running yet.:D
I have also been messing about with the air intakes.
I have them soaking in a potassium hydroxide solution at the minute; trying to strip off the paint and layers of silicone added over the years

Deenie123 · 08-01-2015 1:49am

Copper, you've an incredibly wide skill-set! Is it all self-taught/learned by osmosis or did you work at something handy?

copper12 · 08-01-2015 2:54am

Since I did not learn to read or Wright; until I was over thirty; and being dyslexic most of it is from osmoses’
The last twenty years books and the net.

copper12 · 09-01-2015 8:34pm

Evening all
Have one guess ahh go on its raining again
I have been doing some work on the air intakes.
I needed to make two new bases.
So a visit to the local scrap yard’ provided me, with the top off an old copper tank’ so old it was riveted together’ the copper from this tank’ is twice the thickness than the copper’ from a more modern tank.
So with a metal cutters; file’ and sand paper’ I set about making th ebases’ below are the results
I still have to either solder or braze them together.
I have removed the paint; and it revelled some splits and cracks.
Also the chrome is cracked and missing from a lot of places.
The base is copper’ the upright is brass’ and the dome is copper.
So options’
Either get them re chromed so they look new.
Get some new one’s and try and make them look old .
Or repair the originals; and get them looking the best I can, remove the old chrome’ and leave them as they are.
Photo0909.jpg

Photo0910.jpg

Photo0911.jpg

copper12 · 09-01-2015 8:36pm

a few more

fergal.b · 09-01-2015 9:28pm

Good job, I think I would leave them as they are and just polish them up there is nowhere in Ireland that can do hard rechroming so you would have to send them to the UK and it's not cheep :eek: It might be worth looking on ebay to see if you can pick up some good secondhand ones.

.

copper12 · 10-01-2015 5:58pm

Evening all
I got a bit of work done today .
I had me lunch at half seven, so I could get a good run at the day.:D
I have the toe rail almost finished bar the shouting.
The traveller still needs to be fitted; but most likely’ I will leave it for a while’ since it’s brass’ it might get damaged .
I recycled some copper nails’ that were originally used for the ribs’ I knew I would find a use for them.
I also finished the transom; I was not sure what king of finish I wanted; I was going to run the toe rail along the top, but decided after looking at some photos to leave it out.

copper12 · 10-01-2015 5:59pm

one or two more of the transom

copper12 · 12-01-2015 5:38pm

Evening all
I have been tinkering away the last couple of days.
Namely the transom’ toe rail’ and the air intakes.
I will leave the final sanding of the toe rail’ until the weather improves.
I gave the transom a coat of my varnish mixture.
To seal the new pieces of oak.
And repaired the air intakes, I soldered them and cleaned them up.
Since they were badly pitted; and cracked and in a few places,
I repaired the cracks as best I could, and Polished them up; I tried a few different types of polishing teknec’ very fine sand paper; brillow pad’ bead soda’ lime juice’ and vinegar’ none worked to my satisfaction.
So I asked myself what exactly I was trying to achieve.
Clean the tarnish off and remove the pitted surface.
So I needed something’ that would remove these deposits’ but not damage the surface any more than necessary.
So I came up with a system that worked for me.
It consist of; Portland cement’ linseed oil’ and water’ and some clothes.
About an hours work for the polishing once I had a system.
Below are the results

fergal.b · 12-01-2015 6:36pm

If you wanted you could scratch the inside of the vent to see if it's copper or brass if it is you can remove the old chrome with one of these and then polish it up.

copper12 · 13-01-2015 1:28am

The air intakes are made up of copper, bronze, and brass,
I will most likely paint the inside of the domes

copper12 · 14-01-2015 5:58am

Evening all
It’s unlikely, that I will get any work done to the topside of the boat, in the next couple of days, so I thought I would post a few lines.
The young lad has almost finished the forward hatch.
In fairness to the lad’ he can only spend a couple of hours every couple of days’ working on it, I am satisfied with the progress so far.
It’s made up with 30mm x170mm teak; there quite a few photos’ I will try and upload them in some order .

He just needs to make the hatch door and then I will decide’ on how I am going to finish the top’ after that I will give it a coat of varnish

copper12 · 14-01-2015 6:00am

a few more

copper12 · 14-01-2015 6:03am

one more

copper12 · 22-01-2015 12:15am

Evening all
Its weather has been to cold lately, so there not a lot being done on the boat.
The lad has gone back down under,:o so it was left to me to try and finish the forward hatch.

All that’s left for me to do is the finish; I still have to cut out a skylight, and fit hinges, and the air intakes.
I should have it caulked and the bungs done by the weekend weather permitting

copper12 · 25-01-2015 7:10pm

Almost finished the forward hatch
I will leave the rest for a while and concentrate on the inside
I might give it another few coats of varnish every now and then

copper12 · 29-01-2015 10:48pm

Evening all
I am still tipping away
In between the showers’ I am filling the seams with putty.
I have about half done’ I will need to do a bit of sanding’ before I can do more.
Depending on the weather’ I might get some of it done the weekend.
I have also cleaned up some of the original wood cabinets; for the forward’ and rear cabin.
They turned well for fifty year old wood.
I have given them a coat of; 25%white sprit 70% varnish 5% boiled linseed oil.
This should raise the grain ready for a light sanding.
I will give them a couple of coats before I fit them.

copper12 · 01-02-2015 10:46pm

Evening all
The furniture turned out well; I have given it a few coats of varnish.
I am still shovelling putty’ into the seams’ and fitting a few Dutchman’s .
On one side of the boat you’d get a tan; and on the other frostbite.

pedroeibar1 · 02-02-2015 12:05am

I love the grain and the chamfered edges.:) One tip – hoover up as much as you can while you go, the shavings/dust will go into the most awkward places, are hard to collect and can cause a bilge pump to clog.

spaceHopper · 02-02-2015 11:43am

What is in the first picture?

copper12 · 02-02-2015 1:35pm

As far as I know this kind of repair is called a Dutchman
It could be something to do with slippers I mean clogs:D

spaceHopper · 02-02-2015 1:53pm

Is it their equivalent of finger in a hole to stop the leak?

copper12 · 04-02-2015 10:04pm

Evening all
I have finished the caulking and filling the seems with putty; bar where the boat leans on its supports.
I can attend to these areas’ when I go to sand the hull; I can lower one’ at time’ fill, then sand’ and raise the foot again.
I also took off one of the spreader bases, as one had broken’ where it was bolted true’ they are made up of 25mm solid aluminium rod; a visit to the scrap yard, produced a meter length, for a tenner.
So I will probably replace both spreader bases, with the new rod’ see attached photo.
Since I was going on a spending spree, I bought a lowrance system’ global map 3000mt’ and a LCX-18c for €250, then went completely crazy,:eek: and bought a 4hp mariner, old but hardly used, €450’ I need to service it; and replace one little hose, and it will be up and running.
Is there anyone out there’ that has used these lowrance systems, I will figure out how to use them eventually. I have all the PDF manuals
The information that I am looking for?
Can I set them up’ as to have one master’ and one slave?
I.e. one to receive all the data’ from the fish finding sonar and the GPS receiver.
Then pass it on to the other.
I think it can be done.
Anyone tried this?

copper12 · 09-02-2015 11:57pm

Evening all
I finally finished fitting the forward mahogany pieces.
They went back without to much bother.
There’s a bit of tidying up to do yet’ but everything looks ok.
I also dismantled one of the broken spreaders.
I had to set a bend’ in the aluminium rod’ to match, the old one’ that had broken.
Plan A B and C didn’t work, by plan E; I thought I was on to something, and finally settled for plan F.
Three pieces of hardwood’ a clamp’ and a blow torch’ to heat the rod to aide bending.
I managed to get two bends’ one for either spreader
In one of the photos. you can see the three rods. The old one is on top; with the other two beneath.
I just need to drill some holes’ and see if I can get them to fit.

copper12 · 15-02-2015 9:50am

Evening all
Hope you are all well
I have the flu’ anyone want it let me know. :P
I got a little bit done over the week’ I decided to fit the air intakes’ so that there would be some ventilation for the forward section.
The turned out well; I am very happy with the repair.
I also got a bargain off the web; a bucket of old stuff’ there’s a bit of everything in there’ 100€’ some of you might have seen it on done deal.
Most importantly’ there was two Barlow Australia 16 winches in the lot.
I have taken them apart’ and serviced them, they now look as good as new.
At the moment’ in between the aches and pains, I am sanding the laths for the cabins, fifty years of varnish’ doesn’t come off easily’ but I am getting there.

copper12 · 15-02-2015 9:52am

a few more

copper12 · 20-02-2015 9:35pm

Evening all
Did you ever have one of those weeks’ when you seem to be working non stop’ but have very little to show for it’ well this week seems like one.
I have been concentrating on the rear cabin.
Sanding and doing some repairs. there still a lot to do in this section. it’s the small fiddly bits’ that would do your head in. and takes the longest to do.
I have been in and out of that boat; more times, than your man’ in fifty shades of gray. :eek:
There were 12 laths on either side; I have only fit10, there are still two to be fitted at the top
that will give me four to play with, as I am sure I broke a couple’ when removing them from the other sections, and these are the longest laths, so I can cut them to fit.

chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

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