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burning oil

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  • 28-12-2013 9:18pm
    #1
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭


    Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??


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    #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??

    What is heating your water to that level?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #3
    Billy Bunting
    Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    Make and Model.


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    #4
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Hi do the oil have to heat the water as well , as i have my water here boiling all the times seems a waste to be honest . Can i do something to stop my oil heating up the water ??
    Thermostat controlling motorized shut off valve on cylinder would do the job. Or a basic hand operated valve. But you would be better off getting a plumber to have a look as a few important factors have to be taken into account that we can't 100% advise over text without seeing it.
    But shouldn't be a major problem.


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    #5
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    scudo2 wrote: »
    Thermostat controlling motorized shut off valve on cylinder would do the job. Or a basic hand operated valve. But you would be better off getting a plumber to have a look as a few important factors have to be taken into account that we can't 100% advise over text without seeing it.
    But shouldn't be a major problem.

    When you say a valve , there is a red turn valve on the left side of tank . Should i turn that to off


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    #6
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Billy Bunting wrote: »
    Make and Model.

    Not sure really , but the boiler outside is a firebird


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    #7
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Wearb wrote: »
    What is heating your water to that level?

    Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads


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    #8
    Billy Bunting
    Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Not sure really , but the boiler outside is a firebird

    Check thermostat setting at Firebird boiler.


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    #9
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Billy Bunting wrote: »
    Check thermostat setting at Firebird boiler.

    Its up to the highest setting , but i dont think my rads are as hot as they should be . I have on full blast and i feel house is not as hot as should be . Would heating the water be taking from the rads . And when i tried to bleed the rads some water came out is this normal


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    #10
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads
    A professional service using a flue gas combustion equipment, similar to what's used on a car exhaust and opinion can save a fortune.
    Without the proper equipment and experience its a waste of money + fuel.


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    #11
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Not sure why water is heating up , i have no switch or anything so it just heats up when oil is on and i an sure that must be using more oil than is needed just to heat my rads

    I thought you maybe had a stove or something else beside the oil heating it.
    Are you sure its literally boiling, or do you just mean really hot?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #12
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Wearb wrote: »
    I thought you maybe had a stove or something else beside the oil heating it.
    Are you sure its literally boiling, or do you just mean really hot?


    No its not boiling as in boiling , but very hot water all the time oil is on . And i dont really need very hot water all the time really . There is a red valve on the side of my tank in hot press if i closed this would this do the trick ??


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    #13
    Billy Bunting
    Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Its up to the highest setting , but i dont think my rads are as hot as they should be . I have on full blast and i feel house is not as hot as should be . Would heating the water be taking from the rads . And when i tried to bleed the rads some water came out is this normal

    The red valve on the cylinder sounds like a balancing valve, if open to far it will rob heat from rads.
    You will still require to lower the stat temperature at the Firebird.

    A few pics of your cylinder would help further.


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    #14
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    If the boiler stat is turned to max, it will over heat the water in the cylinder. Turn the boiler stat to 70C.
    The balancing valve at the cylinder (one with the red wheel to adjust) should be closed & opened back approx one full turn.
    Try this & see if you see an improvement.
    If you do not require hot water, then you could close this valve to stop the hot water heating from the boiler but beware if you have zone valves on the heating & one fails whilst boiler is firing you could damage the pump or worse, the boiler. An auto bypass should be fitted for safety.


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    #15
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Billy Bunting wrote: »
    The red valve on the cylinder sounds like abalancing valve, if opento far it will rob heat from rads.

    A few pics of your cylinder would help further.

    No prob will post some in 5 mins so


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    #16
    scudo2
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,008 ✭✭✭scudo2


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    When you say a valve , there is a red turn valve on the left side of tank . Should i turn that to off

    Friendly plumber would tell you.

    It could result with heating pitching into tank in the attic which could eventually damage/ rust systom if not inspected.


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    #17
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    001.jpg

    002.jpg

    005.jpg

    006.jpg

    The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??


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    #18
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    001.jpg

    002.jpg

    005.jpg

    006.jpg

    The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??

    Are you calling the cylinder stat the boiler stat?
    Also is that cylinder stat already wired to a motorised valve?


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    #19
    Billy Bunting
    Registered Users Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    at times i dispair at the confusion.


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    #20
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Are you calling the cylinder stat the boiler stat?
    Also is that cylinder stat already wired to a motorised valve?


    The Cylinder stat is what i meant its on 60 , its the thing in the photo which is onto the cylinder . And i dont know about been wired to any thing ,other than it has a wire wire coming from it going into cylinder .

    So still asking , will i turn the red valve down bottom left of cllinder , and what should the stat on the cylinder be set at eg 60 , 70 , 80

    And sorry for the confussion:D


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    #21
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    That stat should be set to 60C. If it is working, the hot water should not reach more than 65C which you wouldn't stand under tbh. If you go below 55C, you have a risk of legionnaires.
    Check the "boiler" stat setting at the boiler see what that is set to.
    How many zones are on your timeclock?


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    #22
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    shane0007 wrote: »
    That stat should be set to 60C. If it is working, the hot water should not reach more than 65C which you wouldn't stand under tbh. If you go below 55C, you have a risk of legionnaires.
    Check the "boiler" stat setting at the boiler see what that is set to.
    How many zones are on your timeclock?

    Ok explain the legionnaires thing a bit more , if the water drops below 55c i could get it how ??? .

    The stat is set to 60 so that ok , the boiler stat is set to max it has no numbers on it on lines which it is at the highest point


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    #23
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    Ok explain the legionnaires thing a bit more , if the water drops below 55c i could get it how ??? .

    The stat is set to 60 so that ok , the boiler stat is set to max it has no numbers on it on lines which it is at the highest point

    It sounds like you have a high efficiency boiler & if so turn the stat to just over halfway. Their temp range is narrower than a SE boiler to ensure it stays in condensing mode so limiting homeowner tampering.

    I would also suspect you have had a heating controls upgrade with time & temperature control over each zone, but this is just a guess.

    Legionnaires is a whole other thread but basically it is a air borne disease that survives & multiplies in damp moist conditions with temps of 30 - 55C. So if you store your hot water within this range, your showers will atomise the water which you breathe in the molecules of contaminated water & the symptoms/results are akin to asbestos.

    A lot of cases each year that do not make the headlines. Hospitals in Belfast was the last publicised case last year.


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    #24
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    shane0007 wrote: »
    It sounds like you have a high efficiency boiler & if so turn the stat to just over halfway. Their temp range is narrower than a SE boiler to ensure it stays in condensing mode so limiting homeowner tampering.

    I would also suspect you have had a heating controls upgrade with time & temperature control over each zone, but this is just a guess.

    Legionnaires is a whole other thread but basically it is a air borne disease that survives & multiplies in damp moist conditions with temps of 30 - 55C. So if you store your hot water within this range, your showers will atomise the water which you breathe in the molecules of contaminated water & the symptoms/results are akin to asbestos.

    A lot of cases each year that do not make the headlines. Hospitals in Belfast was the last publicised case last year.


    I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??:confused:


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    #25
    shane0007
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,677 ✭✭✭shane0007


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??:confused:

    Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
    More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

    The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.


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    #26
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    I dont think so as my clock on wall is just the basic model with consent on / timer / and off option,s . And again i will ask can i do something to stop water from heating up when i turn on oil , if so what ??:confused:

    The answer to that question is yes. But very likely you will need a visit by a plumber to work out why it is behaving as it is. It should be a simple job, but you never know until you see it.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #27
    jimmy180sx
    Registered Users Posts: 478 ✭✭jimmy180sx


    From what i can make out from the photo of the red valve is that this is either a cold feed to the cylinder or hot feed to the basins/sinks/bath. Isolating this will mean you have no water to these appliances. You need to identify two pipes (flow & return) from the boiler to the heating coil on the side of the cylinder. Check to see whether either pipes has a control valve (usually white casing) with a little light indicator or isolarion valve. As said previously, if valve is fitted. Close fully, (turn clockwise), until hand tight, the reopen one full turn. Many houses were plumbed without separate zone for dhw, & heating, which may be in your case


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    #28
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    tfromkerry wrote: »
    001.jpg

    002.jpg

    005.jpg

    006.jpg

    The stat on boiler is set to 60 is it right or should it be higher , and the valve on left side should i do something with this ??

    Is that cylinder stat cut in through the insulation. On my phone it looks to be sitting on top of it.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #29
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
    More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

    The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.

    Yes the stat which is set at 60c on the tank is wired to a dial on my wall which is set to 30c do this sound right i will post pick in a min


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    #30
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    Wearb wrote: »
    Is that cylinder stat cut in through the insulation. On my phone it looks to be sitting on top of it.

    Yes its cut through the blue insulation


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    #31
    tfromkerry
    Closed Accounts Posts: 187 ✭✭tfromkerry


    shane0007 wrote: »
    Yes you could turn off the coil but we don't have the whole picture. If that cylinder stat is wired to a motorised valve, you could just turn down the stat to zero.
    More info & more accurate info would equal more advice, otherwise as Scudo says, call in a plumber to evaluate your system.

    The stat is wired to something & most likely a MV but we cannot see from your pics.

    001.jpg

    002.jpg

    003.jpg

    The stat on the tank photo (3) is wired to dial on wall photo (1)


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